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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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  • Bankman64 or anybody else: I am having similar problems and cannot tell if anyone responded to message #1109. If so, please fill me in on the details. Thanks. V-Babe
  • Hi,
    I have a 96 Villager LS with 103K miles on it.
    1. It developed an oil leak from the crank seal and i thought I will get both, the timing belt and the crank seal done at the same time. Today took it to the mechanic but later he called me that he cannot get one of the tensioner pulley(or crankshaft pulley, i am not sure) out of the casing and that now he needs some special tools (he was talking abt putting some two small special screws in it and pop it out or something like that)
    Has anyone had a similar problem like this?

    2. Also, both my CV boots were torn so the mechanic suggested that the cost of replacing both the CV boots is almost same as getting new remanufactured axles. what do you guys think?
    Thanks guys
  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    I have had both of my CV boots tear. One I caught right after it tore and the CV joint was still very full of grease. I only replaced the boot (cheaper than a new axle at Midas). The other tore on a rainy road trip and all of the grease was gone. No sense at that point just replacing the boot as the joint likely had grit in it and would wear out pretty fast anyway.

    I would suggest going with the axle assembly if you have driven for very long with torn boots.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 894
    My 2001 Villager has only 31000 miles. The problem is a hear a squeek or a groaning from the front end at low speeds when turning and going over bumps (like pulling in a driveway). Could this be the struts already? Anyone else have this problem.
  • My 2K Estate has been doing the same thing since before 20k and it now has 80k. I did have the drivers axle replaced due to a torn boot recently and some of the noise has gone away. I have had several places look at it and was told "everything looked fine".
  • My 93 Villager has had this squeak or groan when I back out of my driveway with the steering turned all the way to the stop and as the front wheels pass over the shallow curb. It's been doing this for almost a 100,000 miles and 12 years without causing any problems.

    There is no noise when backing and turning as long as the steering is not all the way to the stop.
  • I have a 2001 Quest SE that suffered from a squeaky or groaning front end. My problem manifested itself shortly after I bought the vehicle.

    The good people on this board, through sharing experiences, diagnoses the problem as a loose anti sway bar/bushing problem. A trip to the dealer for the turn of a wrench and a little grease solved the problem. Over 55,000 miles have passed and the problem has not returned.
  • My 1999 Nissan Quest SE (88K miles) start having a problem recently: very high (~2000) RPM when in parking or in neutral. When I turn AC on RPM goes down to 1,300-1,500. Turning AC off - jumps back to 2,000. Putting in Drive makes RPM go down to 1,000. Couple days ago the Check Engine light came up. Did anyone had similar problem? All suggestions will be appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Vadim
  • steverstever Ex Yooper, en route to New MexicoPosts: 40,499
    Lots of auto parts stores (like Autozone) will read the codes for free.

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  • Thank you, Steve!

    Additional info:
    I went to AutoZone and used their OBD-2 code reader to find out that computer identified P0325 code (Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction). I cleared this code and Check Engne light is still *off* after ~50mi.
    I am wondering if a knock sensor malfunction could result in high idle RPM?

    Thanks!
  • steverstever Ex Yooper, en route to New MexicoPosts: 40,499
    While waiting for feedback in here (I'm no wrench turner), try asking over in Got a Quick, Technical Question?.

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  • I have 69k miles on 1999 Quest GXE. All regular maintenance were done on time. Planning on a trip to MI and IL this Christmas holidays. Is it time for me to replace the timing belt before the trip?

    A reliable mechanic who works out of his home has quoted me $450 including all belts, water pump, seals, antifreeze etc. He has a lot of local satisfied customers as reference.

    Also the local dealers are quoting between $775 to $900 for the same job.

    Not sure what to do? One Goodyear shop mechanic asked me to save the money for the trip and have the repair done after the holidays as 69k miles is too early for replacing the belts on a Nissan.

    I will appreciate your input to this matter. Thanks.
  • steverstever Ex Yooper, en route to New MexicoPosts: 40,499
    Nissan says to replace it at 105,000 miles. My '99's at 97k and getting close. If your mechanic was nearby, I'd be knocking on his door!

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  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    I agree that it is too soon to worry about the timing belt and water pump. You may want to have the coolant and accessory belts changed if they are due.

    When you do have the water pump and timing belt changed, I would also recommend replacing all coolant hoses if they are still original as this is easy to do as part of this job.
  • Can I send my Villager to you to coordinate this same work on it? :)

    $700+ is what the L/M dealer in SC quoted for the same job.
  • steverstever Ex Yooper, en route to New MexicoPosts: 40,499
    Looks like mine is sticking now. My wife hadn't noticed or complained about it. I cleaned the throttle body Saturday and noticed the tach sticking; probably unrelated.

    Then I dreamed the van was stolen and stripped. I don't know what the heck that means :-)

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  • Ask your mechanic if he is sure whether or not the 99 Quest has an interference or a non-interference engine.

    I have an ongoing conversation on this forum with Steve and others and none of us are dead sure of the answer. I have 80K on my 99 and if I find out it has an interference engine that would cause a catastrophic failure if the belt brakes I would be less likely to go the 105K in the manual. My luck is not that good.

    Would be interested to see what type of engine your mechanic says we have in our vehicles.
  • Thanks for all your input. I will go and meet the mechanic this weekend, and get some estimates in writing for the entire timing belt job. Can't the Nissan dealers confirm on the engine configuration? I tend to think that it has an interference engine. Now I may be wrong.

    I specifically mentioned my make and model, and he said the total cost would be $ 450.00 including belt(s), seals, water pump, anti-freeze, etc. Can't beat that. Now I like to meet him and get that quote in writing. BTW I will be travelling from TX to IL and MI in winter. I am likely to put almost 3500 miles in two weeks. Just don't want to take the risk of being starnded in the middle of nowhere in freezing temperature.

    I will keep everyone posted about my meeting with the mechanic. Until then,

    Goodbye.
  • Hey guys, i don't know about you, but i had to get my front brake pads replaced. Since then i've been hearing nothing but screeches everytime i come to a low speed stop (20mph - 0 mph). But when coming from 45mph-0mph, there's no screeches. These are new brake pads and and it's been 6,000 miles. I run a 2001 Nissan Quest GXE. You guys wanna tell me if you've had the same problems? All comments appreciated........ :-)
  • steverstever Ex Yooper, en route to New MexicoPosts: 40,499
    Did they use anti-squeal grease?

    Another good place to ask is the Stop here! Let's talk about brakes discussion.

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  • Did you get the original Nissan brake pads? I noticed a little screeches on my 2001 SE for the first 500 miles. Since you have 6000 miles on the new brakes, you should not have any sound coming. I would suggest you to take the Van to the Mechanic who installed the brakes.
  • I have a 2000 villager estate I just got, and the power seat on the dirvers side will not work, along with the power mirrors. I think it is related to the memory seats, since that controls both. Has anyone else had this problem. Also, the fan on the A/C only works on 4 and the other switch for where the air comes out doesn't work. Anyone else? the drivers window switch only puts the window up if you pull really hard on it.
  • izaclown1izaclown1 Posts: 116
    I had problems with my 2k Estate's climate control. The fan would not stay on or off. It would blow high for a while and then stop. Finaly, it stopped not to return. It was a bad module and Ford picked up the tab. They said that should never happen. My TC is starting to have the same trouble about the time in milage, around 50k. I have not had the switch touble others have talked about in here, but I did have to replace the back vent motor this summer.
  • steverstever Ex Yooper, en route to New MexicoPosts: 40,499
    Not sure about the seats, but the fan is a known problem. Search here using the Discussion Search for resistor.

    Here's one post about it:

    dhoff Jan 5, 2002 5:33pm

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  • I own a 2001 Quest GXE, i noticed on the VIN sticker on the driver's seat door thingy that the Quest was assembled by the Ford Motor Company USA for Nissan Motors Corporation...... Is this a "Ford minivan" with a Nissan logo? Don't know about the vice versa with you Villager owners.....
  • steverstever Ex Yooper, en route to New MexicoPosts: 40,499
    Quests and Villagers were made by a joint Ford/Nissan venture. Sheet metal was stamped by Nissan in Tennessee, the drivetrain was Nissan and may have been manufactured in Japan (Nissan also has transaxle plants in the States). Ford supplied some of the electronics etc. - my Quest power window switches are identical to my buddy's F150's switches.

    All the stuff was assembled by Ford employees in Ohio.

    The joint venture ended early in ~2002.

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  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    I'm beginning to wonder about the Villager/Quest thing. Maybe an "early" sale or trade would be a good idea. Are we the owners of an unworthy vehicle? Is it trouble prone? This gnawing feeling is not unusual for those of us that participate in such forums, I suspect. My 2000 base model Villager has had no problems but the window switch, which I replaced. Can I get a little commiseration here? I bought it new and am just now reaching 24,000 miles.
  • steverstever Ex Yooper, en route to New MexicoPosts: 40,499
    24,000 miles? My '99 Quest is at 97,000 miles and I'm behind a few folks. Yours must be cherry!

    I wouldn't worry about stuff unless you start having symptoms of something.

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  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    I've got to say, it strikes me as an excellent vehicle. I certainly got an excellent buy on it as a year-end deal on the brink of the Nissan-Ford arrangement expiring. It's the only van of any sort I have ever owned.
  • CHECK ENGINE LIGHT had been lit on my 1996 Mercury Villager for last 12 months without showing any major mechanical problems. Two things
    I had noticed were engine hesitation while cruising between 50-55 mph and 20% less gas
    mileage. In order to prepare the vehicle for emission test, I took the car to Firestone and it was determined that (P0172 code) new oxygen/O2 sensors ( both upstream and downstream) were needed. They were replaced at $400.

    CHECK ENGINE LIGHT had come back on after driving it for less than 20 miles. Firestone determined that it needed EGR-BPT ( back-pressure transducer ) and EGR valves which cost $500 due to P0400 code.

    I took my car to another mechanic for a second opinion. By visual inspection, he had determined that the 3-inch BPT hose was cracked. It was replaced at $10. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT came back on again after driving it for 100 miles. It was the same code P0400 which indicated a problem somewhere in the EGR system which could be any of the EGR components.

    I took the car back to the second mechanic who took a closer look at both EGR-BPT and EGR valve. Both seemed to be working fine i.e. no carbon build up at least. He cleared the code from the car's control module. I had driven it for more than 100 miles both local and highway, and the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT had not come back on. I decided
    to take a chance and took the car for emission test and it PASSED. I have just saved myself $500 for replacing the EGR-BPT and EGR valves. I have 2 more years before the next emission test.
This discussion has been closed.