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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems



  • Stiver - you said the two side doors and windows leak. What do you mean by side doors? Do you mean the sliding doors or the two front doors?

    You may want to check the tension on the window latches for the sliding doors. I know that my sliding door glass worked itself loose after only a few months of ownership (2001 Quest SE).
  • The sliding doors are leaking on the side with the handle and the windows on those doors leak. The window on the back hatch also leaks. It happens any time there is a hard rain or we use a high pressure car wash. We are taking it in for the 5th time next week. Service department thinks we're crazy!
  • First of all, thank you, Craig, for your suggestion. However, it does not look like as easy as that. I checked all the vacuum lines. No defect was found. Anyway, I changed all of them. Ported vacuum is ok. Get 4 inHg at 1500rpm. EGR valve is ok since engine slowed dowm when vacuum applied on it. Voltage is there (11.5V) for EGR solenoid. Solenoid "sounds" working when 12v directly applied on it.
    Now I need help on the questions bellow.
    1. What is the correct vacuum (in InHg) at each stage?
    2. How to check EGR solenoid based on the air pass?
    3. Since EGR valve is ok, how about EGR control backpressure transducer valve (EGRC-BPT)?

    By the way, code 34 was also detected. It is knock sensor fault. Are they related?

    Thank you all in advance.

  • Hi guys..
    RSWAMI and others, first of all thanks for advice about mileage.. i dont get more than 18mpg.. and about speed, i live in LA, gotta speed up just to keep up with the traffic..
    Now about the Villager part:I tried to replace the headlamp on my recently bought 96 villager and the headlamp retainer ring broke the locking part at a very little pressure.. tried every shop around, kragen, pepboys,autozone No luck.. went to the nearby ford dealer and faced the worst auto service so far, they didn't have it and wer too fussy about ordering such a small part (can u beleive it?).. Any idea where can i get it?
  • Oops Kent, I just returned the Quest service manual I'd borrowed from the central library after I got my wife's Quest problems sorted out. I'll request it again, but it will take them a couple of days to get it sent out since it is a limited circulation reference book. If you live in a metropolitan area you might inquire if your library has same because it is wonderfully comprehensive. I'll have to get back to you later; sorry.
  • Craig:
    Thanks again. The problem has been solved after I pinpoited the proble should be around EGRC-BPT. A broken tube was found in a hidden corner below EGRC-BPT valve.
    Now, it is time to work on knock sensor.
  • I have a 1997 Nissan Quest GXE with 102,000 KM. Just did a complete brake job (front and back). After all this work they brakes still feel quite soft. All the lines have been bled and fluid topped up. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this problem? Thanks.
  • Kent,
    That's great! I'm sorry I didn't do a better job of explaining because on the wife's 97 Quest the rubber connector was fried on the line/tube that connected the EGRC-BPT to the EGR valve. The line/tube on the 97 is about impossible to see, but exits the bottom of the EGRC-BPT and runs to the lower part of the EGR. It wasn't until it couldn't be anything else and I was about to take off the EGRC-BPT that I discovered the missing link.
  • whitel,
    Any chance your master cylinder is bad? If you did the wheels and bled the brake lines it should be solid. We have about the same mileage at 64,000, did the brakes earlier this year with some premium pads and turned rotors and ours works great. I've been told that some of the pads can be softer than others, but I don't have any experience there because we always get the harder pads and haven't been disappoined.
  • Help!!!
    I have a 1996 Mercury Villager. Since 35k miles I have been experiencing engine overheating just enough to cut off the A/C compressor. This overheating only occurs in high tempatures of 96 degrees or better. I have had the following repairs in an attempt to fix.
    1. changed thermostat
    2. flushed radiator numerous times
    3. replaced water pump
    4. replaced egr valve
    5. replaced high pressure switch on a/c
    6. replaced evaporator on a/c
    7. reprogrammed computer
    8. repaired leak in a/c hose (not sure if really leaking or just dealer getting desperate)

    Has anyone had this problem and or can anyone make suggestions on possible fix.

    It seems that when the engine gets hot the throttle seems hesitant and the transmission slams into second pretty hard. This only occurs just before the compressor cuts off and the electronic tempature guage goes up one or two notches (digital dash)

    Any assistance will be appreciated.
  • jr714jr714 Posts: 24
    I have a '93 Villager with 136K on it. I have owned it for 1 1/2 years, bought from 2nd owner at 117K. I have had 20K of pleasant nearly trouble free driving and my wife and I both like the car very much and want to keep it as long as possible. Right now I have 3 problems:

    1 - Shortly after buying I began hearing a loud exhaust noise and replacing the muffler did not help. By now the noise is quite loud and is annoying my wife. I have since read all of the previous postings regarding the exhaust manifold problem. I have had 3 estimates of $1000 or more, with all of them hesitant to do the work at all, though all were familiar with the problem. Today I had another mechanic look at it and he told me there are no bolts left on the manifold and one bolt missing from the head underneath. He said he will try to do the job without replacing the studs and this will cost considerably less - he said $300 max. When I asked him if this could cause a repeat problem within a year or so, he said he doesn't know. My wife and I really like this van and want to keep it as long as possible. Should I insist on replacing the studs as well? Will it help if he replaces the old bolts with heavier duty bolts?
    2- About 10K miles ago I began hearing a knocking noise right under my foot coming from the front end when accelerating from a stop and going over certain types of bumps on the road. Since then I have replaced the front struts (and paid an extra $150 to replace the strut bearings) and had the front end examined by 4 different mechanics. They all insisted there is nothing at all wrong, except 1 said it was a ball joint, but the next 1 said it is fine. I am at a loss. They all confirm hearing the noise but no one can find the problem. Anyone have any ideas?
    3- The front brake rotors were replaced about 50K ago and since then ground twice to alleviate shuddering. Nevertheless there has been a constant squeak and intermittent grinding noises coming from the wheels and about 10K ago the wheels emit a higher pitched squeak after 10 min. or so of driving only between 15 - 40 mph. Does anyone have any ideas about what this might be? The mechanics have offered no answer as of yet.
    Sorry about the length of the message. I have been hoping to solve these problems on my own with no success, so I elected to do 1 posting as opposed to 3 separate. Thank you for any help you could offer.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,931
    Until someone knowledgeable pops in here, you guys may want to visit Carl Haines' or Steve Cutchen's page and see if anything there helps.



    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

  • okmomokmom Posts: 37
    The display on the radio/cd/cassette/clock on our 2000 Quest disappeared.
    Other than that everything else works perfectly.
    We are wondering it might be cheaper to get the radio/cd/cassette unit w/ free installation at the local electronic shop.(~$150)
    Can Any units that sell at the electronic shops works on my Quest? Ours has the control on the wheel....
  • I have a 98 Quest that has a noise that is driving me crazy. The noise is coming from the lower windshield area and begins anywhere from 60 mph to 75 mph (especially if there is a head wind). It sounds like a teapot boiling or air squealing out of a balloon. Any suggestions on what might be causing it or how to fix it would be greatly appreciated, it's torture on a long drive.
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    The radio display may be repaiable. Try checking with a local car stereo installation place, they may know how to get it fixed.

    Or, you may have to send the unit in to the manufacturer to get it fixed. It wouldn' hurt to check with you dealer's service department too.

    Try searching back a while in this topic, if you can't find anything here try searching the VillagerQuest archives at I know I have read of someone describing how they got this fixed, I just don't remember the specifics.

    Good luck.

  • From what I have read on this forum ,the radio display going out is a common problem. I had the unit replaced on my 99 villager while it was still under warrenty for this problem.
  • Problems noted after 48K:
    1. Horn doesn't blow when securing vehicle with key fab.
    2. Stereo doesn't display stations. Burned out led display.
    3. Brake light kept coming on. Have to keep brake fluid high to keep light off.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 13,584
    the problem (usually) is loose connections. I had a radio shop fix mine (make sure it is a quality repair operation - the one I used did repairs for the dealer). They needed to re-solder the connections, and now it works fine. Much cheaper than a new factory unit.

    Depending which set up you have, getting an after market replacement can be problematic. You have to worry about steering wheel radio controls, rear jacks, CD changer, etc. Probably not as much of an issue with the base unit.

    Asthetically, the factory unit will look much cleaner than another brand. But get what you want.

    The radio shop can give you real options (repair vs. replace), but the repair charge should run about $100 - $150, depending on location.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    Your remote should be programmable to enable or disable the horn when securing the vehicle. I actually disabled mine as I didn't like the horn honking when I secured my Villager.

    If you brake fluid is low, your pads are probably wearing. The Villager/Quest is a heavy vehicle and the pads do wear faster than on lighter vehicles (at least mine do). Make certain that your brake pads are still in good shape when you top up the fluid.
  • Like many Quest owners, I experienced the radio display and the wiper swipe problems. The radio has been replaced twice by the dealer. The first replacement lasted about 3 days until the display went out again. The second is now into its 5th month; I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
    (Total waiting time for both units: about 5 months!)

    Still struggling with the wipers, though. The combination switch was replaced 11 months ago, while the van was still under warranty, but a couple of months ago the gremlins were back. The nature of the problem is intermittent: some days the wipers activate by themselves almost every time I use a turn signal, while other days everything is fine.

    The dealer keeps telling me that they have to have it happening consistenlty in order for them to even start troubleshooting it. I have the following questions for the folks who have successfully repaired this wiper swipe problem in their Quests (mine is a '99 SE, by the way):
    1) Have you had the combination switch replaced more than once in the same vehicle?
    2) Was the cause of the problem ever attributed to anything other than the combo switch?

    Appreciate any advice.
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