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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,931
    No to both questions, Mdrabkin. My replacement still works fine. ('99 GXE).

    Steve
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  • Hi,

    I have a 99 Quest, and the right head light does not operate, I have checked the fuses, replaced the lamp, and checked the relacement lamp to make sure it was good.

    My right headlight still does not operate. Any suggestions on what I should check next? The owner manual mentions checking a fuselink if the fuse is good and the device still does not operate, can anyone tell me what fuselink is and where it is located on the Quest.

    Thanks
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,931
    My trouble shooting guide says to check the bulb (ok, check that one off!), then check the 15A fuse (No. 36 located in fuse and fusible link box under hood on driver's side). Verify battery voltage is present at terminal 5 of headlamp control unit. Then check grounds at both lamps and the combination switch.

    Zilch mentioned about a fusible link in the lamp checklist (they do exist naturally)....

    Steve
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  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    Try wiggling the wires that come out of the headlight housing while the lights are switched on. If it lights up, you likely have a bad socket for the bulb. This is a common issue with '99 Villagers. The dealer replaced both of my headlight sockets under warranty.
  • riswamiriswami Posts: 192
    Getting a creaking sound from the driver side when I go over bumps at slow speed. The radio has to be off to hear the noise. Van has 46k. I don't get excessive bounce from the shocks. I'm assumming the shocks are original. Anyone have any ideas? What is the life expectancy of shocks for these vans.
  • You may want to check the bushings on your front anti-sway bar. This has been a source of strange low speed creaking sounds in the Villager/Quest.
  • riswamiriswami Posts: 192
    Thanks for response. Forgive my ignorance with anti-sway bar, do you lube it, replace the bushings or does the bar need to be replaced. If a anti-sway needs to be replaced what is an estimated cost for having the job done. I'm not exactly mechanically proficient.
  • My 2001 Quest SE had this problem after about 7500 miles. The dealer relaced and lubed the bushings and that cured the problem.....for now.
  • Thanks Steve and Kymike,

    Wiggling the headlight cable and pushing firmly on the socket worked. The light is now functioning without any problem. I even removed the cable, moved it in different directions, put the socket back onto the bulb, and it still works.

    Thanks so much.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,931
    I think Kymike's practical advice was much better than the stuff quoted from my manual :-) Glad to hear it's working.

    I just did an oil & filter change and reglued my driver's side mirror for the 3rd time (hedge busted the glue joint this time ).

    If I can get past another oil change I'm gonna start hinting that mine is reliable (at 73,000 miles now).

    Steve
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  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    If the "wiggle trick" worked, it just means that you have a bad connection or short in the wiring. If you are still under warranty, I would suggest having the dealer look at it to see if the wiring is about to go. If not, you can take your chances, but I still would have it fixed before it goes out again when it can inconvenience you the most.

    The "wiggle trick" was a temporary fix for me as well, but the intermittent problem of going out continued.

    Best of luck.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,931
    It sounds like it's that time again - getting the metalic "warning" noise from the front pads. 22,000 miles on this offbrand set.

    Is it a given that I need to replace the rotors too (they were resurfaced once before)?

    Everyone still liking the Raybestos pads vs the OEM ones (the Bendix ones sound like they create a lot of dust)?

    Thanks!

    Steve
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  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    No experience with the Raybestos pads, I replaced mine with OEM Nissan. From what I've heard online they are good too.

    As far as resurfacing the rotors, you probably will have to replace them, but maybe not. If you take it in the shop should be able to mike them and tell if they can be turned again. If they didn't go too nuts last time you may be OK.

    Dave
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,931
    Thanks Dave - they only seem to squeal when my wife drives it (worked fine for me this evening). I think I'll eyeball the pads tomorrow and then think about getting parts or heading to the dealer. Would you do yours again?

    Steve
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  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    If I had it to do over again, I'd try the Raybestos pads. The Nissan pads are good, they are quiet and wear well, but I think some more stopping power would be good. IIRC, someone on the Villagerquest list liked the Raybestos pads for better stopping.

    I replaced my rotors with new Nissan ones when I did it. Could have had them turned, but I've had bad luck with that in the past. Next time I need to do the brakes (if we still have the van) I will take the old rotors to a machine shop or auto parts store & have them turned.

    Dave
  • dhoff - If you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for the OEM disks and pads? Are the Raybestos components cheaper?
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,931
    Now that I've flopped one of the front wheels off to eyeball stuff, I see there's a whole lot of brake dust in there. Maybe that's causing the squealing I'm hearing. The disk looks pretty smooth with the eyeball test :-). Maybe I can get by with some more deferred maintenance, at least until the brake light comes on again, (or until my wife makes the appointment at Midas for me, LOL).

    Steve
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  • Steve - The nice thing about the 16 inch alloys that came with my 2001 SE is that the eyeball test can be done without removing the wheel. Aren't you jealous? :-)
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,931
    But the rubber for your van costs more! I'm more jealous of your opening hatch window ;-)

    btw, I didn't remove my pads, but I crammed my dial caliper in there as best I could and it looks like I have ~5mm of pad left, or almost 50%.

    Here's hoping my hosing the brake dust out quiets it down.

    Steve
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  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    Dust will make them squeal! Don't worry about it until you hear the metal squeaker thing.

    Corsicachevy, I ordered my brake rotors and pads online from Courtesy Nissan. I don't remember how much it was, but if you go to their website & poke around a bit, you can get the prices. I think the rotors were about $75 each, and the pads about $45, but that's jsut ballpark.

    Dave
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