Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

1565759616277

Comments

  • dmonizdmoniz Posts: 15
    Hi Mike,

    If you read Msg #1874 from dbrem26, he explains the procedure as I did it. It was very simple and took only a few minutes. It's just a little awkward to reach this board since it's under the passenger side dash. Also, once I removed it, it looked burnt as I read here from another Quest owner.

    Good luck,

    Dave
  • Boy do i feel stupid!! After replacing and repairing just about everything under the hood, turns out my problem was only that the air filter cover was not on tight so it sealed, causing too much air to get to the Mass air flow sensor! funny thing is i had this to 2 different garages, 600.00 spent, new distributor cap/rotor, new plugs and wires, new fuel filter, new ignition module and coil, new resonator and catalatyc converter, and it turns out that the damn mechanic didn't realize that the only prob was that the filter cover was not sealed properly, so all in all i fixed it myself...after tightening down the cover the van runs great, not to bad for 190,000 miles...now i have to run it longer to get my money back out of it haa haa! i will be calling back that garages tomorrow to boast about my fix it job, and asking for money back! i think the "professionals" should have noticed something as simple as that. i also think that is going to be the last time i "pay" for someone to do a tune up on my vehicle, if they can't even put the air filter in correctly.....best of luck to all that are having troubles, i am sure that not everyones fix will be as easy as mine was, but it sure was a good lesson learned! :)
  • mine is a 93 quest GX.......yes they had to replace the engine mounts....one at about 90,000..........the other front mount at about 130,000

    currently 160,000 and doing ok.

    door locks; I've noticed in the past couple of weeks that the driver side door lock (the most used), is getting increasingly difficult to operate. However, can't say if it's the lock, or is some sum-[non-permissible content removed] tried to pick it, because I noticed what looked like "pick marks" on it. they are manual locks....not power locks.

    on the other hand.....could be a bad tumbler. for example...my ignition tumbler has been shot for about 5 years now........you can remove the key while it's running.....and it doesn't always operate smoothly.

    However, after 12 years of faithful service, with nothing major gone wrong.....I'm not complaining.

    sacramento
  • fuel connector hose recall; dang....mine 93 GX started the gas filler hose leak thing in about mid 98....I was broke (divorce) so finally checked the NHTSA website....

    called a local sacramento dealer.....set the appointment..got it done no charge and timely too.

    sacramento
  • dahackerdahacker Posts: 1
    Can you be more specific on what you did to fix the problem? I am having the same problem and the dealer told me that the entire throttle body would need to be replaced at a cost of close to $200. Thanks!
  • mikemanmikeman Posts: 1
    hi, I also have a 95 villager, very sluggish when the ac is on, did you find out what is causing the problem?
  • llegg1llegg1 Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 Nissan Quest that is less than 2 months old. We discovered a whistling noise coming from the driver side when the AC is on recirculation. Has anyone else had this problem? If you did, was the source of the problem found? The Dealership has had the van for 4 days and still has no clue as to what it is.
  • marku1marku1 Posts: 11
    The good news is that it was a fairly easy fix. I tried everything, checked everything and finally gave in and went to the dealer (my wife had very little patience- driving in Houston without good excelleration is dangerous!). It ended up being a fouled spark plug wire. A $40 set of wires and a hefty bill for the info.! Another problem that was corrected at the same time, which may have contributed to the problem was a restricted thermostat. It would open enough to allow water flow but would not open all the way. The only indication was the temp. gauge reading was just a hair higher than usual but it was still well within the "normal" range as indicated on the gauge. That very small increase in temp. has a huge impact on the electronic engine control system. The dealer said that the control system does several things to protect the engine when it senses high temp. and they all have a negative impact on performance.
    The dealer wanted almost $1,000 to replace the thermostat, water pump, fluid, spark plugs and wires...but these were small things so I did it myself.
    I do not know if this is the same problem you have. My problem stated out as sluggish with the ac on and then continued to slowly get worse. It started to do the same thing with the ac off and started using more gas.
    I would start with new plugs and wires. Be careful to set the gaps properly( the tech. that did my last tune-up skipped this step!).
    NOTE: If your water temp. gauge reading is ANYWHERE else besides the spot it has always been( even in the "NORMAL" range) and your engine is having problems, change the thermostat first. It is the cheapest and fastest thing to replace, and is most likely the problem.
    Good luck, let us know how it works out.
    Mark
  • I also have a rear blower that doesn't work.

    How do I get at the front controls apart to work on it? My problem sounds real similar since it only works once and a while. The while is getting longer and longer.
    Thanks for any help.
  • wcislowcislo Posts: 3
    My '96 Maxima's check engine light came on and the codes showed: knock sensor, TPS, and 2nd gear a/t. I had the bands adjusted ($35) to clear the 2nd gear a/t and a week later the codes for knock sensor, TPS and 1st gear a/t came on. Transmission company now want to do a diagnosis on the TPS (for $100+) to find out what problem is and go from there. After reading about your problems I'm thinking I should just have the TPS replaced. But whatever happened with your knock sensor?
  • Just a bit of information for all of you plagued with rear a/c problems. If you are willing to do without your rear A/C, here is a trick that I used to disable the rear leaving the front A/C working. You will need a 1/2 plumbing compression fitting with a cap and a 1/4 plumbing compression fitting with a cap. Go through all the necessary protocols to ensure your system is fully dischared. Once dischared, jack up the front of the car so the 4 lines going to the rear unit are visable. There are two lines coated in rubber, once is 1/2 inch outside diameter and the other is 1/4 inch outside diameter. Using a small pipe cutter, cut about a 2 inch section from each a/c tube. I chose to cut the section as close to the engine as possible ensuring the lines to the A/C system were not damaged. Also, very important, the tubes going towards the engine must be straight. Lightly sand the tubes going towards the engine to remove any burrs. Place the compression fittings on the sanded tubes and torque it down pretty good. Probably not a bad idea to use teflon tape. After the compression fitting is tight, put on the caps. Charge up your system and you should be good to go! This fix worked great for us and saved the $1000 dollars or so for new rear lines and a condensor. It took about 2 hours and cost from the plumbing store were about $12.00. My only concern is how the brass fitting will react to R134 over time??? One word of warning, carefully trace the pipes ensuring they are for the a/c. Otherwise, you will get a face full of radiator fluid, or worst yet, brake fluid.
  • jmishkajmishka Posts: 5
    So my speedometer and cruise control quit last week to add to the problems with the van... I guess 90,000 is the magic number.

    So I pulled two trouble codes out: speed sensor and knock sensor

    I replaced the speed sensor had the OBD reset and still getting CEL on all the time and OD flashing upon starts. There is no knocking in the engine at all with any grade of gas.

    I am trying to find out if there is a short in the system, because someone told me that the same exact symptoms showed up in his wife’s 99 Villager and it was a short in the Knock sensor wires and that they had to remove the dash to get to it.

    I have a Haynes manual and it shows the schematics but it doesn’t clearly show me where the ECM is. Now I think I have located it on the left side of engine compartment near the manifold, a black rectangular box with wires going into it from both sides and when I undid the 10mm screw on the front of it and pulled off one of the plastic covers I found it had numbers corresponding to the wires.

    The problem is I can’t tell which number corresponds to the knock sensor cuz the Haynes Manual doesn’t tell me!! Does anyone know if I am really looking at the ECM and which wire number corresponds to the knock sensor in my 99 Quest. If I remember correctly there are 42 numbers/wires in all.

    Does anyone know exactly where the wire comes out of the manifold for the knock sensor? We are currently checking the right hand side and we think we may have located it but can’t find the harness it should go into.

    Also are there better manuals out there for this vehicle other than the $210.00 CD-Rom (printed is $275.00) from Nissan themselves for the shop/service manual?

    Thanks any advice is appreciated and I am fearful that this is going to cost me minimum $500-1000 to fix.

    Jenn

    I apologize if this info is located somewhere on the list already but I can’t seem to locate it.
    So other than the speedometer and the cruise not working I haven’t had any major issues until today…today the van worked fine on the way into work but when I left I got back on the highway and it started smoothly lurching almost like major hesitation, no backfiring, and then it wouldn’t go more than 30 mph with the pedal to the floor on the highway. And after full stops it wont accelerate very quickly if I try to “push it” it get very sluggish response. I looked at the throttle cable and cruise cable and both seem ok, the throttle cable is a bit loose. SO I am thinking it was/is the knock sensor which makes me very unhappy.
  • nlc63nlc63 Posts: 6
    Knock sensor is still an issue. I am thinking that the gas may be causing this error (i.e. the knock sensor was actually sensing a knock). My wife usually uses regular (87 octane); I filled up with premium (93 octane) and I did not get a check engine light for over a week. My wife then filled up with 87 again and the light came back on in 1 - 2 days; the codes were knock sensor and IAT sensor (same as before). I need to redo the experiment to verify if it was the gas or just coincidence. By the way, I have already checked the knock sensor signal with an Oscilloscope; it seemed ok. I think the incoming voltage was ok (12v) -Manual does not show which is the power wire. I also checked the IAT sensor multiple times - resistance checks out and changes with temp. and 5.0 volts is there, so I don't understand why I'm getting this code. Finally, I purchased a code reader; I noticed that the knock sensor code did not light the light - it was the IAT that set off the light. My advise is to take care of the TPS - that may also clear the a/t code (it did for me).
    If you have a multimeter, check the voltage coming out of the TPS. I don't remember for sure, but I think it is supposed to be between 0.4vdc - 0.5vdc. You adjust it by loosening the TPS screws and rotating the TPS slightly. Also, check that the other connector (TP switch) is shorted at idle. This is how I fixed my TPS - I never replaced it. NOTE: Somehow the TPS position moved the first time, so I had to do it twice, so don't worry if the error comes back - check the TPS again. ALSO, if you decide to replace the TPS, you will still have to do the adjustment. Finally: you will know if your TPS is not adjust right - you will notice the idle speed is high. Good luck, I would be interested to know how you make out.
  • crit2crit2 Posts: 6
    I have a 2001 villager with similar problems as yours with the speedometer. At times it will go weeks without a problem, then while driving the speedometer will fluctuate to 0 and back to the speed your are running. If we shut the engine off, it will clear and then may or may not repeat the problem. Do you have any recommendations for fixing the problem?
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,805
    Does anyone know if I am really looking at the ECM and which wire number corresponds to the knock sensor in my 99 Quest

    I have the factory manual for my '99 Quest. In one place it says that the ECM can be viewed after removing the instrument panel; in another place it says the ECM is located behind the instrument lower cover; it looks to be underneath/behind the glove compartment in the dash. In one diagram there looks to be a wire bundle on one side (right side facing the dash?) and a relay on the back of the unit (a longish rectangle). Another diagram shows the wiring harness on the front of the box with wires going in and out from the center.

    Confused? I am - the manual is probably making it worse!

    The ECM terminal reference table says the knock sensor terminal no. is 64 and the wire is white. The DC voltage should be approximately 2.5V at idle.

    Usual disclaimers - I'm not a wrench turner and much of the stuff in the manual is way over my head.

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • jmishkajmishka Posts: 5
    Thanks for your help I will have a look... I thought that should be under the dash..I used to date a Ford driveability tech and he showed me how to pull codes etc and told me once the computer ECM is under the dash passenger side on almost if not all vehicles...I should have trusted that advice.

    I can't believe the Haynes manual said it was in the engine compartment next to the manifold!! I am very UNhappy with the Haynes manual it really doesn't tell you much. I am praying it is not the $1000.00 buried under everything elusive knock sensor... although that is better than the trani needing to be replaced. But I have to say all in all I love my minivan and if its needs to go to the Dr...then I will just have to suck it up :sick:
    Jenn
  • radzradz Posts: 1
    i have a similar problem with the one you are experiencing. I changed my TPS and it fixed the problem. actually i repaired the TPS and it worked perfectly and save a lot of $$.

    robert
  • stigmatastigmata Posts: 10
    Relay 2 on the climate control board is probably bad. Cut mine open and jumped the relay to get it to work.
  • spike59spike59 Posts: 4
    Hi dbrem, Thanks so much for the info...I will be doing this job this weekend and will let you know how it goes.
    Thanks again, Spike59 :)
  • spike59spike59 Posts: 4
    Hi dmoniz, I have been away and will now tackle the job,,,thanks, I really appreciate the response.
    Thanks,
    Mike
  • i think we are having the same prob with our A/C. '93 nissan quest, 190,000 miles, only prob no A/C. charged system, compressor works, but it leaks out as fast as you can put it in. Mechanic at Tuffy said he was 90% sure without looking at the van, because that would have costed 200.00 just for a peak, said that it was the hoses that went to the rear A/C that were leaking (apparently this is a prob with these vans). My question is, when i looked in my haynes manual it shows 4 hoses that are for the heat and A/C?? which ones would i check? is discharging the system necessary if you show no pressure on the A/C gauges?? it reads 0 when you hook up the gauge. The highway robbery mechanic that i talked to wants 100.00 just to discharge the system, which is a total crock, considering i am leaving the crap with them. please let me know if you can help it is 100 degrees here, and with 6 kids i REALLY could use some A/C, but without the charges at the garage! TOTALLY FRUSTRATED IN OHIO......... :confuse:
  • pastorckpastorck Posts: 2
    I have not seen the actual rear A/C linings. However, I am thinking of using 1/4 inch copper piping to supply the rear. Could that work as these are normally used in the plumbing gas jobs?
    How effective is the front A/C working only when temp. are so high with young kids "cooking" in the back?
    Thanks for your prompt feedback folks! :confuse:
  • ken39ken39 Posts: 8
    I have read all over this board about the rear A/c not working but no real fix. My front A/c only works on High speed. Now I read that the problem may be in the front fan relay? Not sure still. Any Ideas? :confuse:
  • aerosnowaerosnow Posts: 13
    can anyone recommend a mechnic in the Queens NYC area? Need to replace belts and water pump but dealers wants $800. Can anyone help?
  • earle1earle1 Posts: 1
    hi .
    also have same problem with front seat belts same year 95 villager.
    i can get them to move from 'b to a' by pushing down on the red button near the park brake, with the door open.
    closing the door returns them to the b,position where they stay!
    what is my-our problem
  • marku1marku1 Posts: 11
    Hi,
    My belts were stuck for one day. After several trips and many attempts to get them to work in the driveway, they still would not budge! Then, my wife returned from the library the next day and said they were working. And they have worked perfectly ever since. Sorry that I can't help.
    Mark
  • nshaukatnshaukat Posts: 1
    I have 1998 quest and starting experiencing the same problem for last few months. I had to call the road service this weekend as I was locked out due to this problem. Would you please share if you got it diagnosed by the dealer?

    nshaukat
  • sparky_bsparky_b Posts: 1
    For the 1999 Quest driver door window switch issue...

    I actually removed the bottom cap of the switch box, and then I carefully pried the circuit board out. It comes out, but as steve said, each of the black switch caps have in them a white doohickey, and that doohickey is then latched onto a white base with hinge bumps on either side (just like the caps are held onto their black bases). The white base is then snapped to the circuit board with press tabs. I think the board must have also had a bit of glue holding it in, but it didn't seem like much.

    So, you have to basically pry around the board (carefully, but firmly) until it pops off each of the switches. Took me a bit to work it loose. When it does come loose, some of the switches will likely come off of their rocker bumps - don't drop any of the switches as they come free, as there is a spring and a small white headpiece that you need, in each.

    Once the board was free, I could see all of those white bases on the top side. I pried off the one for the bad switch, took out the metal rockers in there, and could see that the base connections were pretty bad. I cleaned those using a small wire brush. I then cleaned the rockers and put those back. I put the white base back on, and put the circuit board back in, and put the bottom cap back on. Then I could push each switch back into it's slot. The only thing that I couldn't get put back right was the child window lock, which I really didn't try hard to put back (we don't use it).

    Took me maybe a bit more than an hour all-told, and saved myself $80. My van has 110,000 and it still looks very sharp. Have replaced an oxygen sensor, two ball joints, and a power steering box...I think that's it...

    Hope that's helpful.

    sparky
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,805
    That's pretty good - so you were able to attack the problem from underneath and not destroy the black caps in the process. Heh, where were you a few months ago? :shades:

    Mine seem to still be working fine btw.

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • The Van died tonight stranding the wife & Kids. When I went to tow them back, the motor would not get going, even though it would turn over.

    I pulled the distributor, and right away there was the problem. The metal contact arm had broken off the top of the rotor, thus no spark, no inginition.

    The problem I have now is that I can't get the rotor off. I found & removed the screw on the back of the rotor, but it still wont come off. Am I missing something? I tried to pry it off, but ended up busting the back half of the rotor. I just want to be sure before I start to pry again, as I'd hate to break out the whole distributor, - quite costly.

    Mike
This discussion has been closed.