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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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Comments

  • hycchycc Posts: 1
    I had this problems for 2 years. Just changing O2 sensor, it solved the problems.
  • I recently replace the Goodyear Eagle LS (225/60/16) tires on my 2001 Quest SE (44,000 miles) with a set of Firestone Supreme Si all season tires. The origninal Goodyears were impossible to keep balanced and didn't provide the greatest snow traction. Plus, they didn't wear well, possibly a function of the balancing problem. The Firestones are a 60,000 tire and should last longer than the Goodyears.

    The Firestones aren't much to look at as their sidewalls are plain, but the transformation of the vehicle has been positive. The SE has firmer shocks and thicker antiroll bars than the stock Quest. I figured the vehicle didn't need touring tires to maintain its sporty feel so I went with some traditional all season units. Immediately, the van feels softer, less harsh over expansion strips and larger bumps. Road noise has also been reduced.

    Now, if I can just keep the things round I'll be a satisfied customer.
  • Hi,
    I was driving my 96 villager to Sequoia park on thanksgiving when suddenly my steering wheel jammed which i thought was because of a flat tire but checked and found that tires were fine so i guessed that probably the steering motor is out.. within 15 min my engine stalled and i realised that temp is shooting to highest.. i was fortunate to find a mechanic few miles away who found out that my Tesioner pulley running my power steering motor and my water coolant pump was "missing".. hard to imagine that it just fell off like that.. since the people there could not find the replacement part they got a temporary smooth pulley and used it with some extra washers.. they also tried to take out the idler pulley which runs the a/c w/o knowing that the tensioner pulley is not the same ..arghhh! but finally i was able to get on the road again using that temporary pulley and minus my a/c running (luckily it was cold)... Has anyone had the pulley falling off exprience?

    Now i need to change BOTH the pulleys and put the right ones in? is it simple job if i just get the pulleys myself from the dealer?
  • Hello,

    I'm the original owner of a '99 Quest SE with 78,000 miles. I've had good luck with this van but it's been developing problems lately and I'm wondering if other Quest owners are experiencing the same.
    1. Radio display is intermittent but usually out completely. No time or radio stations displayed. It has recently stayed on for two days but now it's off again.
    2. Power driver's window just started acted up by not wanting to go up. Have to keep pulling on the switch.
    3. Power locks have a spinning sound while locking or unlocking.

    Has anyone experienced these problems and know what the cost might be for repair? I'm considering replacing this vehicle as I'm disappointed given it's only 4 yrs old. I think Ford is to blame since they had a hand in building this vehicle. I found that out after I took delivery. Thanks in advance for any help.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,149
    1 and 2 I can address, since I dealt with both on my wife's '99 SE (now at 44,000 miles).

    the radio display problem is some lose connections that need to be re-soldered. A quality radio shop can handle it, and it will probably cost about $100-$200, depending on how expensive it is where you live. Much cheaper than a new head unit however, and it isn't easy to go aftermarket in this case.

    The power window switch is also relatively common. The switch assembly probably needs to be replaced. It is an easy process (s/b DIY if you are handy), but you can have a dealer do it for about $120 IIRC ($80 for the part, 1/2 or so labor).

    I have no issue with the power locks, but if they still function normally, maybe you can just live with the noise?

    Your van might be only 4 years old (probably closer to 5 by now), but 78K is a lot of miles in that time, and these are relatively minor issues that can happen with any car

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,960
    My '99 has 88,000 miles and similar issues - well, my radio display has been fine.

    I lubed the edges of my windows with some silicon spray and that has helped keep the power windows working. One of my door actuators was replaced under warranty and they haven't chattered in a long time.

    I like to blame Ford for the gremlins, but the switches (and probably the circuit boards that fail) come from various suppliers.

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  • Thanks for the feedback John and Steve. I will probably replace the window switch myself but will need help from either the dealer or radio shop for the display.
  • For $100-$200 to fix the radio ... Would just replacing the radio with a new CD player fix the problem?

    Most of the major retailers do free installation for players over $100.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,960
    Check out post 1117 here, and search this discussion for radio for even more.

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  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    My 99 Quest just turned over 100,000 miles, and, knock on wood, the radio display still works. I have had to replace the driver's side window switch (easy job).

    For more info on the radio display problem, check out:

    http://www.shareamemory.com/radio/index.htm

    Dave
  • I have a 1997 Villager. The check engine light came on. I managed to read to code by jumping the right wires from the engine compartment connectors as described in the repair manual. It gave me a code 33, Oxygen sensor problem. So I replaced the sensor, but could not get the check engine light go away. I followed procedure in Hayens manual, but no luck. I even disconnected the battery, but the light is still on. Any idea what's going on? Thanks in advance
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,960
    My '99 has two O2 sensors, so double-check that.

    Maybe try going to a parts store like AutoZone and get them to read the codes and interpret them too - many of the parts stores will do that for free.

    You're 12,000 miles ahead of me Dave!

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  • I have a 99 SE with 80,000 mi. This is primarily my wife's van but I drive it occasionally. I drove it last week and noticed the tach was stuck at 2000 rpm. It never moves, even after shutting off the engine. Is there some easy fix for this, I really don't want to replace the whole gauge cluster.
       Our Quest had been pretty problem free, until a couple of weeks ago. It is in getting new cv boots, new rear bearings, and three new motor mounts (one was totally ripped, one crushed, the third one held everything together).
       Overall it has been a very good and reliable vehicle.
  • My 1996 Villager experienced total brake failure during a panic stop buy normal braking seems fine. I checked the brake fluid and it's topped-off with no visible leaking. This has happened twice in the past day. Does anyone have any suggestions/clues?

    Also, for the past year, when the oil life reaches approx 2500 miles (6 months), a loud valve knock develops, the "Check Engine" light comes on and performance (plus gas milage) is significantly degraded. I suspect that there's something wrong with the engine but the wife thinks that we don't change the oil enough. Some thoughts on this problem would be greatly appreciated.
  • Note my message #1377 re: balky window closure.
  • Yesterday when I was using my wife's 99 Quest (73K) I noticed a strong coolant odor in the vicinity of the front passenger floorboard/firewall area. No visible leaks on the garage floor but the coolant level in the overflow tank is a bit lower than usual.

    Could this be a heater core? Seems like the carpet would be wet if it was related to the core. Any ideas or experience with a coolant odor in this area?

    Vehicle has been pretty trouble free up to this point.
  • I have a 2000 Villager and I have been battling a very small coolant leak for almost a year now. My coolant tank would run dry after about 2 months. There was no sign of coolant on the garage floor but you could actually smell the coolant (sweet smell) so I knew there was a leak somewhere.

    The last time I took it to the Dealer they said they couldn't find the leak but they did put a dye in the coolant. Well, that was the trick! I took the car back to the Dealer just before Christmas and they found that the Throttle Body was leaking into the intake manifold.

    I've read a lot of posts about sticking/dirty Throttle Bodies but never anything about coolant leaks. If anyone out there has a small coolant leak that they can track down take a hard look at your Throttle Body...

    Good Luck
  • Me again...

    I thought I'd pass along some information on my front brakes. I have a 2000 Villager with 34,000 miles. I've actually have gone through 4 sets of front brakes and a pair of rotors!. I'm an ASE mechanic so I know what I'm doing when it comes to brake replacement but I couldn't understand why my brakes were wearing out so soon.

    Everything was checked out to include the proportioning valve. Well, as it turned out Ford/Nissan had made a change to the friction material they use on the second generation Villagers/Quests. The brake pads I was purchasing from my local parts store still had the old style material so I continued to experience excessive wear and noise. I'm not one for buying parts from the Dealer but that was the only way I was able to fix the problem. As soon as I installed the Dealer pads the noise went away and I still have 95% of the pad left after 6,500 miles.
  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    The low washer fluid warning light came on recently on my 99 villager. I refilled the fluid, but the light does not go out. I did a search and saw where this issue was previously raised, but with no resolution noted. Any thoughts on this? Has anyone ever replaced the sensor? Not something critical that I want to spend a lot of money on, but the light is annoying.
  • waynerpwaynerp Posts: 35
    My light also came on (2000 Quest) and would not go off. I'm guessing you would have to replace the entire tank for a proper fix. As I recall, there is a floating part in the tank that is detected by the sensor when the fluid level is low, which turns on the light. In my case, this part no longer floated, thus the light stayed on. I was able to remove the sensor from the tank, with wire harness attached, and tie it off somewhere nearby. This causes the light to stay off regardless of fluid level.
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