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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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Comments

  • VshunVshun Posts: 21
    Poca,

    thanks for the advice.
    However another dealer behaved somewhat similar yesterday regarding the battery.
    My wife came to him with 2 problems: engine noise (on previous visit my first dealer did not fix it - due to Murphy law it had disappeared at the moment vehicle entered their garage) and dead battery complaint.
    The seem to fix the engine problem (driving belts) but did nothing with the battery and did not find any leaks. They tested the battery and said battery tests are OK and they can do nothing.
    Our van was stranded 4 times with dead battery during the last 3 months. Headlights are not the cuplrit (we use Auto1 setting) + our TV wire is now permanently disconnected (so Nissan service cannot blame the problem on it). Still both dealers said if by the time you bring the van to them battery tests show Ok they do nothing with this problem.
    I do not intend to leave this problem, I know in 3 weeks the van will be stranded again on some shopping plaza parking lot. Booster cables are the most frequently used tool for us recently.
    I believe if both dealers bevahe this way - this can only mean this is due to some unstruction from Nissan for this type of problem, so it is useless to talk to the manager, need to talk to Nissan though and make them change it.
    I will try to complain to Nissan directly - they either have to replace the battery or finx some leak in wires. I searched on Nissan Web site and could not find customer service, can anybody help? (There was some brochure for such complaints, I cannot find it at the moment).

    Some other problems I have which dealer says its OK (they are more a nuisanse and not a big deal as dead battery on 10 months old vehicle) -
    1. If steering wheel is turned a little I cannot switch turn signal to the same side. For instance, turn steering wheel just a little to the left and after that try to show left turn signal - the switch does not go, returns into the central position immediately even under force.
    Dealer said this is normal, I doubt it as I never remember having it on any other cars I had.
    Is it just me or this behavior is normal for Quest or some other cars?
    2. When pumping the gas sometimes (1 out of 10 attempts) the valve just shuts off. Like you bring your van with empty fuel tank, start pumping, every 0.2-0.3 gallons it shuts off. So I have to click again and again on fuel pump manually, probably 30 times so it finishes the full 17 gallons. This is inconsistent. Dealer looked at it and at first admitted the problem and ordered the replacement part. When I brought it for repair they had Nissan rep on site who took it to gas station, pumped 5 gallons (it was no problem this time) and said everything is fine and no fix will be made, this is all some gas station fault. They also said some gas stations nozzles may be incompatible with Nissan fuel tank opening.
    Well, I use the same gas station with my other car and never had this problem, never seen anybody else pumping like me on the same gas stations.
    This problem is not a big deal but just annoying.

    For the sake of justice to the service, need to mention we had some problems fixed still, such as left wiper problem -fixed with the help of this newsgroup (I printed some messages and showed them to service guy), and engine problem seem to be gone for now.
  • I'd call the dealer and speak directly to the General Manager about your battery problem. If that doesn't work, call Nissan 800 Customer service and file a complaint. You should find the customer service number your owner's manual; it's usually in the back. Not sure if this will work for you, but the 800 # from my area is 1800-nissan1. Also, once they fix the problem, you might want to ask them for a whole new battery. Every time it runs down it wears on the battery...

    Your steering wheel turn signals sounds normal. The vehicle is set to automatically turn off the turn signal when you're turning.... that saves you the hassle of having to turn it off yourself after you've started your turn. Hey, not a bad idea to use the turn signal before you start the turn. ;-) Talk to you later.

    Pocahontas
    Community Leader/Coupes, Convertibles, and Sports Cars Conference
  • I have the same thing with turn signal not engaging when the wheel is turned a little. Although I do not find it "normal" or "convinient" the dealer states so.
  • VshunVshun Posts: 21
    Poca,

    I know its normal to turn off the signal when vehicle steering wheel is turned back. However I think it is NOT normal not to let the signal engage in the first place, i.e. I can really turn on any signal right or left only when wheel is set straight in central position. That is not the case on my other car, or I do not remember having this on my previous cars.
    I can see that I am not alone from akrasnov message.
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    I'm sorry to hear of all the problems you are having. I'ts really frustrating when the dealer won't fix them for you. I'm experiencing some of the same frustration myself. I think they are more related to the dealer than the van though. If they would just fix it I'd be happy, but right now I'm not.

    Regarding the troubles you are having...

    1. The battery going dead. This should be easy as pie for the dealer to solve. All they have to do is hook up an electrical tester between the negative post of the battery and the ground cable. This will tell them whether or not there is an electrical draw on the battery with the ignition off. If there is, all they have to do is start pulling fuses until they determine which circuit the draw is on. Once they know that, they will be able to trace the wiring on that circuit, checking for loose connections or broken wires, and checking the things on that circuit for problems. I think you need to tell them that you know that this is possible, you know that they CAN do it if they want to, and to keep you as a satisfied customer they should do it.

    2. Regarding the turn signal thing, ours does it too. Unfortunately, I think your dealer is right here, this is the normal operation of the turn signal stalk. If the wheel is just turned slightly, the stalk doesn't "catch". It's just something I have learned to live with.

    3. Regarding the gas nozzle shutting off on fill up, this used to happen to me too. I found that by not inserting the gas nozzle all the way in, it would not shut off. Also using the middle setting on the pump handle, the gas goes in slower but does not shut off.

    Hope this helps.

    Dave
  • My '99 Quest with 5k miles seems be a good overall vehicle when it comes to value and comfort. My only complain is the transmission. The brochure states(page 16)"transmission knows the difference between flat freeways and mountain roads..... it shifts smoothly no matter the scenario" Hogwash! The one I have is not smooth at all. I can feel an annoying tap in the gas pedal when it shifts from 1st to 2nd, same when downshifting for the overdrive. And when it comes to mountains forget it. I put it through its paces on the Skyline Drive this past Fall and the thing stunk. Down shifting and up shifting in those hills was very ugly. Back for service the master mechanic told me "it is suppose to shift". He said he hooked it up to a piece of equipment that checks if it shift at the right time and it did o.k. So as long as it shift service does not care how. Anybody with similar experience? Is this normal in this transmission?
    Anybody had his/her transmission repaired on a '99? As far as I know the only thing from Japan in this van is the engine. I have no idea where this transmission comes from. I think Nissan is in more trouble than I thought. Your Opinions appreciated.

    R2
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,478
    the transmission comes from Nissan also. My '99 seems to shift normally (you can hear it and se it on the tach, but don't really feel it). I don't like automatics in general, but this one is as smooth as most. It does shift out of overdrive pretty often climbing hills, in order to keep the momentum in a heavy vehicle.

    You might be better off switching off the OD if it is shifting frequently in hilly terrain.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (daughter stole that one), and 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again)

  • VshunVshun Posts: 21
    I did not see this problem, and I drove it sometimes through the hilly terrain. My only problem is cruise control which is programmed in a really primitive way, once the car starts going a little uphill it keeps the same rpm and then suddenly revs it up 1000rpm or more, I just feel how it is sucking fuel then.
    To Dave re. battery: I think Nissan must change it if they can find no leak. I am about to write at the moment to Nissan about it, let them authorize battery change or whatever else they suggest to finish this "your battery tests are fine" story.
    I thought to write about these 2 other nuisances (gas pump and turn signal) but after your message I won't - probably this is how Quest is built.
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    Let me know how this turns out. Really, this shouldn't be a tough problem to diagnose. It's too bad your dealer is so unwilling to fix this problem.

    Here's hoping things go better for you in the future.

    My Quest is going in next week to have a bunch of gaskets replaced in the cooling system. There has been a small leak in one of the fittings and I have had to add coolant a couple of times.

    Once that is fixed I have to convince them (or the dealer across town) that I really do have an exhaust or manifold leak and get that fixed. The noise drives me nuts, but a mechanic at my dealer told me it was normal, "exhaust resonance" he called it. I will see. I'm going in next week to drive a new Quest to see if it makes the same noise too. If not, I will know for sure.

    Happy Holidays

    Dave
  • The dealer finally said the rubbing noise I hear in the steering column are some bushings. They sprayed some lubricant on it but the noise is still there. Gonna have them try to fix it again next time I take it in.
  • VshunVshun Posts: 21
    Dave,

    is it legitimate to ask the dealer to let drive a new van to compare? I can see you successfully pressured them to let you do it, what is the secret?

    Nissan main office is closed since Christmas till Jan 3 2001. I wrote them a letter regarding the battery with detailed explanations and copies of dealer srvice records, will see how they react when they get it.
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    I think it is legitimate to ask them to test drive a new van. They claim the noise mine makes is normal, but no other Quests I have driven make the noise. But I didn't have to ask, a salesman offered, because I am thinking of trading up to a 2000.

    Unfortunately this week has really gotten away from me. I took the week off of work and I'm trying to get a lot of stuff done around the house, but the time is flying and I haven't been able to take the time to go to the dealer to try one out. Maybe tomorrow, but I'm not counting on it.

    I was able to get my Quest in to get the coolant leak fixed.

    Good luck with your problem. Keep me posted.

    Dave
  • brit3brit3 Posts: 2
    1. I had my 2000 se for 2 months now and I am beginning to notice wind noise around the doors. Has anyone else had this problem? Is this something the dealer can fix?

    2. Do I have to have my van serviced at the dealer I bought the vehicle from or can I go to any nissan dealer?

    Thanks for any info.
  • VshunVshun Posts: 21
    I did not notice any excessive door noise so far, but you can try any dealer and they should be happy to service you.
    The engine noise I had fixed 2 weeks ago (diagnosed and fixed as driving belts problem) returned again several times. Getting frustrated at all the trips we have to make to the dealer...
    Sent a letter to Nissan regarding battery problem with all the documentation a week ago, no response so far. Will keep posted about this saga.
  • joek8joek8 Posts: 1
    Here in south Florida, a battery that is discharging and then reading OK after charging is normal. Due to the heat down here, the temp under the hood gets terribly high and belts, hoses and batteries suffer. A bad battery down here can check good and I (and others) have changed alternators, ignition switch (the large one under the hood) and other parts. It can be a tough bug to find. If it is the battery, then it should be under manufacturers warranty. Try to get a new one out of their shop (the battery manufacturer). If I were you at this point, and I am not, I would install a new battery from Delco, Exide, whatever. If it proves to be the problem, then you are out only a few dollars and the dealer may reimburse you for the old battery (keep it when it is replaced). if it is the battery, then you have just trained the staff of mechanics. If not, then you are positive that the problem lies somewhere else within the car and Nissan is responsible -- if it still kills your new battery, then you have proven to Nissan that you are a serious owner and not just a complainer. If they log you as a constant complainer over little things, they will never fix your vehicle. In this case, your buying a new battery shows them that you are not just some constant complainer.
    There is a tank pressure release tube when you take off the gas cap, it should allow gas to be inserted until full. I don't know how Nissan sets up their gas tanks to allow them to equalize air pressure when the tank is being filled. Sounds like they ordered the fix and then reneged. The tube could be clogged, pinched or defective. My 99 Quest GLE fuels OK. Shifting up and down without any discernable engine surge or RPM change is impossible. There always is a noticeable difference when an automatic transmission shifts gears -- poking the gas pedal down makes it all the more evident.
  • I have a 99 Quest with 25K and started noticing noise that sounded like the belts squealing at 20K. I took it to the dealer today and they say that my power steerting belt needs to be replaced. Does this sound normal? He also said it is not covered under warranty. My brake light had been coming on whenever I went over a bump, this he says is because I need to have my brake pads replaced. Does this sound right?

    Thanks
    Michele
  • Since it wouldn't be fair not letting folks know
    how my dying battery story turned out (see entry
    #200), here it is.

    The so-called "pinched wires" diagnosis from the
    dealer did not pan out, and the battery died again the following weekend. This time, they replaced
    the battery, noting that they found a "bad cell" in it. Why they couldn't find it last couple of times is beyond me. This was still a warranty repair, though, so I paid nothing, except a day's
    worth of car rental fees, since I wanted to keep
    it at the dealer an extra day to ensure a clean
    cold start. (Dealer paid for the first day.)
    The new battery so far works, not surprisingly,
    like new. We'll see how long that lasts.

    As a side note, I did get a copy of the repair record this time, after some insistance on my part. I just do not get that whole attitude. Saying that they show it in their computer really does very little for me. Overall, I would say that I am more unhappy with the dealer than the van itself. All that cargo/people room and the seating flexibility came in handy quite a few times for me already. It did take me a while to
    get used to spending that much for gas, after owning a little Saturn with a 5-speed tranny.

    -Mike
  • Michele - the belt thing could just need adjusting, unless some road trash has some how cut it in some way. The brake thing sounds total off base, unless your driving habits include riding the brakes and/or delivering the mail. What happens as the brake pads wear, the amount of brake fluid required in the calibers increases as, this causes the level of brake fluid in the master cylinder go down a little. The light flashs when you go over a bump due to the brake fluid sensor can now drop down just enough to make contact, causing the light to flash. Go to any good autoparts store and pick up some brake fluid and fill the master cylinder to the fill line. Or the next time you have the oil changed at one of those quickie lube places ask them to check you brake fluid. I believe there is a diagram in the owner's manual that shows you where the fluid goes, I sure you can take of this yourself if you try.

    Mike
  • jkrolakjkrolak Posts: 38
    I am glad Nissan replaced the battery for you. Before I moved here to South Florida and the the high heat and humidity, I thought I had known of most battery type of failures. Terrible weather we are having...prediction of high 50s tonight, might have to use a sweater.
  • jimzjimz Posts: 1
    This board, as well as the one on the Villager, has had repeated mention of expensive problem with this part. Is this only an issue with earlier models (if so what is the year range)? Do we 1999 or 2000 Quest owners have any reason for concern? If so, is there anything that can be done preemptively?
  • jkrolakjkrolak Posts: 38
    the fix was implemented for vans that are now 5 years old. No problem on the 1999 or 2000 models.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,478
    They actually switched to a different engine in '99, which has no historu of problems with the bolts.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (daughter stole that one), and 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again)

  • When I brought my 99 SE Quest in for the last oil change (few weeks ago), I reported two small concerns:

    1. An intermittent creak sound (bearly audible) coming from the break pedal when pushing in and out. This can only be heard at very slow speeds, or at full stop. At higher speeds, the creak may be masked by the engine noise. btw, it sounds like it's coming from the pedal and not the actual brakes.

    2. The other concern is a slight swishing sound in the steering wheel when turning. I only hear this occasionally.

    I was told by my regular mechanic that both items were functioning properly. I didn't argue with this opinion, because this dealer service has be helpful on other matters with previous vehicles; also both the brakes and steering have been working fine.

    However, today I went to pick up an accessory (rear bumper guard) today from a different dealer, so I decided that while I was there, I'd get a second opinion on these two things. This time I went along for the test drive with the mechanic to point out the noises. I couldn't duplicate the swishing noise, however we did hear the brake creak. This dealer service handled my concerns differently. For the brake noise, he's going to replace the brake booster. He's not really sure what's causing the creak, or if it's a real problem or not..., but since he can hear it coming from the booster, he's decided to just replace it.

    As for the swishing sound in the steering wheel, they'll be replacing the "spiral cable." He also mentioned that he'd done the same for some other Quests that had a swishing noise... so he was going to go ahead and replace this, even though he couldn't duplicate the problem with my van.

    If anyone else has similar symptoms with their 99/2000 quest, I'd be interested in hearing your experience. Btw, as I've mentioned before, it sure pays to get a second opinion. Talk to everyone later. ;-)

    Pocahontas
    Community Leader/Coupes, Convertibles, and Sports Cars Conference
  • I have read all the turn signal problems on this site. I really question wheather this is this a problem or nice safety device. I am sure all states require drivers to signal before turning, therefore in most cases the wheel should be straight when engaging the signal. Also when creaping under traffic lights to make a left hand turn the stearing wheel should remain straight in case someone rear ends your car, your car will go forward instead of into oncoming traffic ( I remember that one from Divers Ed.). Therefore the turning signal problem is not a problem if we follow driving laws and signal when we are supposed to, before turning the wheel. Safe driving to all of you.
  • esp63esp63 Posts: 27
    I have to say that I've never driven a car that didn't pre-maturely cancel a turn signal that was initiated in mid-turn. This isn't a Quest issue- my '99 GLE has never cancelled when I've used it properly. And desi1 is right on the mark; if you aren't signalling before you turn, you aren't signalling properly.
  • ... I had a creaking noise coming from a spring on the accelerator pedal. A little WD-40 took care of the squeaking.
  • ramon2ramon2 Posts: 3
    How did you come across the rear bumper guard? Please let us know how it works out, and tell us about installation, part number and where to get it if it's not much to ask.

    Thanks
    R2
  • ramon2ramon2 Posts: 3
    Never mind #234.... I just read your post on Nissan Quest IV.

    R2
  • Thank for your information. The creak my quest has is not from the accelerator pedal, it's from the brake pedal. The mechanic said it was coming from the brake booster. They're going to go ahead replace the part. Btw, the parts came in the day after I brought it in, but I'm going to wait till the end of the month to replace, since it's not an emergency. The noise has not gotten any worse and the brakes are functioning fine. I'll keep people posted, if it becomes a real problem.

    Talk to everyone later. ;-)

    Pocahontas
    Community Leader/Coupes, Convertibles, and Sports Cars Conference
  • I have a Villager/Quest 97 with about 25K miles on it. When driving with 5 or more people, I notice that the rear suspension sometimes knocks with the rubber bush attached to the body because it is too soft. Otherwise having looked under the car there are no obvious problems. (1) has anyone ever experienced this and (2) has anyone ever upgraded the suspension (either or both the pistons and the leaf suspension) to a stronger type?

    Thanks. kunjan.
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