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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems



  • haven't been reading current messages for a long time but thought i would post that while my 93 villager (bought new) has always had it's electrical quirks the darn thing just won't die and it just logged it's 279,000th mile and still doesn't use any oil between changes (3000 mi). am i ever going to get another new car? can't bring myself to do it. the value of this one is about zero but it just keeps putting money in the bank for me.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,993
    You're my hero, Joe!

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  • Joe's testimonial is exactly the reason I purchased my Quest. It wasn't the most refined or cleverly designed van on the market at the time, but it sure had a good reputation for long term durability.

    I've been in old Villager/Quests, and yes they do rattle and some of the internal bits aren't where they should be or are completely non-operational, but the vehicles still run - which is any vehicle's most valuable trait.

    My 2001 SE has only bothered me with one unscheduled maintenance item (VERY minor and fixed under warranty) in 55,000 miles of ownership. I couldn't ask for much more.
  • Thank God I found this chat. Bought a 95 Quest, the rear end has squeaks, tried replacing the shocks(no good) tried WD-40 on leaf springs (helped for a day) are there grease fitting? has anyone every corrected this noise problem?
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,993
    Have you isolated where the noise is coming from?

    Try removing the hanging spare for a day or two to rule that out.

    The only thing else that occurs to me off-hand is the rear brakes. You might try hosing the wheels down good to get rid of any brake dust or just have someone look at them.

    Steve, Host

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  • Thanks Steve,
    I got under the car and had my son push the rear bumper up & down, the noise is definetly from the leaf springs. I took a 1/4 inch washer and put it in- between the two leaf springs and guess what?, it stopped. Maybe I could buy some spring spaces for a more permanent solution. Yes, the guts of the rear brakes have alot of dust in there and could really use a lube on the contact points of the brake hardware. Wonder what the deal with the leaf springs is? I'll keep investigating. Thanks, again. Darrell / Las Vegas
  • I heard and felt a similar problem with my 95 quest when accellarating from a stop, it's my outter CV JOINTS on both sides.
    Good Luck shohjwh
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    Maybe you could use spring clamps (look like muffler clamps, but no curve). I'll admit I haven't seen any in quite a few years.
    My driver's window electric switch in my 2000 Villager, which I changed at outrageous cost, is holding up fine. Has anyone out there had to change that switch group more than once?
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,993
    Lots of people have had to change the drivers side power window switch, but I haven't anyone complaint that they've had to do it twice.

    Yet :-)

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  • jlemolejlemole Posts: 345
    I have a 2001 Quest SE. The driver's side of the third row seat is not locking into place when I slide it forward or back. This causes that side of the seat to move and rattle. It appears that the "pin" is not springing back into the hole on the floor rail. Any ideas on a way to fix it?

  • Bankman64 or anybody else: I am having similar problems and cannot tell if anyone responded to message #1109. If so, please fill me in on the details. Thanks. V-Babe
  • Hi,
    I have a 96 Villager LS with 103K miles on it.
    1. It developed an oil leak from the crank seal and i thought I will get both, the timing belt and the crank seal done at the same time. Today took it to the mechanic but later he called me that he cannot get one of the tensioner pulley(or crankshaft pulley, i am not sure) out of the casing and that now he needs some special tools (he was talking abt putting some two small special screws in it and pop it out or something like that)
    Has anyone had a similar problem like this?

    2. Also, both my CV boots were torn so the mechanic suggested that the cost of replacing both the CV boots is almost same as getting new remanufactured axles. what do you guys think?
    Thanks guys
  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    I have had both of my CV boots tear. One I caught right after it tore and the CV joint was still very full of grease. I only replaced the boot (cheaper than a new axle at Midas). The other tore on a rainy road trip and all of the grease was gone. No sense at that point just replacing the boot as the joint likely had grit in it and would wear out pretty fast anyway.

    I would suggest going with the axle assembly if you have driven for very long with torn boots.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 894
    My 2001 Villager has only 31000 miles. The problem is a hear a squeek or a groaning from the front end at low speeds when turning and going over bumps (like pulling in a driveway). Could this be the struts already? Anyone else have this problem.
  • My 2K Estate has been doing the same thing since before 20k and it now has 80k. I did have the drivers axle replaced due to a torn boot recently and some of the noise has gone away. I have had several places look at it and was told "everything looked fine".
  • My 93 Villager has had this squeak or groan when I back out of my driveway with the steering turned all the way to the stop and as the front wheels pass over the shallow curb. It's been doing this for almost a 100,000 miles and 12 years without causing any problems.

    There is no noise when backing and turning as long as the steering is not all the way to the stop.
  • I have a 2001 Quest SE that suffered from a squeaky or groaning front end. My problem manifested itself shortly after I bought the vehicle.

    The good people on this board, through sharing experiences, diagnoses the problem as a loose anti sway bar/bushing problem. A trip to the dealer for the turn of a wrench and a little grease solved the problem. Over 55,000 miles have passed and the problem has not returned.
  • My 1999 Nissan Quest SE (88K miles) start having a problem recently: very high (~2000) RPM when in parking or in neutral. When I turn AC on RPM goes down to 1,300-1,500. Turning AC off - jumps back to 2,000. Putting in Drive makes RPM go down to 1,000. Couple days ago the Check Engine light came up. Did anyone had similar problem? All suggestions will be appreciated.

  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,993
    Lots of auto parts stores (like Autozone) will read the codes for free.

    Steve, Host

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  • Thank you, Steve!

    Additional info:
    I went to AutoZone and used their OBD-2 code reader to find out that computer identified P0325 code (Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction). I cleared this code and Check Engne light is still *off* after ~50mi.
    I am wondering if a knock sensor malfunction could result in high idle RPM?

This discussion has been closed.