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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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  • See if your distributor is bad. Not a mechanic, but sounds like what my villager did.
  • I'm not sure if anyone can help me or not. We have a 1999 Villager with only 63,000 miles on it (mostly in town driving). The front and rear brakes have been replaced within the last 6 months. However, now my brake light continues to stay on (will randomly go off and on). Any suggestions or ideas as to what it's problem is? Thanks.
  • I'm not sure if anyone can help me or not. We have a 1999 Villager with only 63,000 miles on it (mostly in town driving). The front and rear brakes have been replaced within the last 6 months. However, now my brake light continues to stay on (will randomly go off and on). Any suggestions or ideas as to what it's problem is? Thanks.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,251
    Sounds like your brake fluid may be a bit low. Maybe you can get the brake mechanic to top it off and check the lines for you for cheap if you aren't comfortable checking the fluid level yourself.

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  • I've checked the fluid. It's right where it's supposed to be. That's what's so confusing. Makes me a little concerned. That, and the fact that the brakes are "spongy" (as my husband calls it). I know how much to press on them to make them stop, but they aren't like any other car I've driven. They're very particular. Any other suggestions?
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,251
    Usually spongy feeling brakes indicates air in the brake lines so bleeding the brake lines would be next on my list of things to try.

    For other suggestions (poor quality brake fluid, weak hoses?), skim the posts in the Stop here! Let's talk about brakes discussion.

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  • ace654ace654 Posts: 8
    I was on a trip to oragen when my 1994 nissan Quest started to say check engine and its transmition was down :sick: at first it amazed me because my 1989 chevy pickup dident say check engine i am afraid that my nissan is not able to go anywhere agien :confuse: it is very sad because my 1989 chevy has not even said check engine i hope the new nissan are not the same :confuse:
  • my mini van has been getting stuck in park. i had the brake switch under the dash replaced last april and last week it started all over again. a friend was under the dash and found not one but two switches, both very similar. one i got at the local parts store but the other could only be gotten from the ford/nissan dealer. they weren't even sure what the part was without seeing it. anyone got ideas? it is working again, we replaced the one. i can get it out of park again and the brake lights are working again. i am just curious what the other part is. and do i need it?any help would be great. thanks.... single mom in PA
  • Mine was the passenger side window in my '96 van. It would go odwn but not back up! I am going to have my brother (who fixes my van) try that. He said it didn't seem likeit was the motor. Without air, it would be nice for the window to work. (even tho it is going to be cold soon) THANKS for the tip. Mamarcie
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 979
    Folks, I've noticed a number of posts about starting and stalling issues, so I've created a separate discussion for these problems. You may notice that some of the more recent posts about this have been moved here:

    Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager Starting & Stalling Issues

    MODERATOR
    Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • My throttle was sticking closed after sitting at idle, like while I was waiting for a light to change. I examined the operation of the throttle valve, which seems to be a butterfly valve plate that rotates inside of a circular tube, similar to the classic carb. Evidently, the problem was that the plate was closing too far and binding against the inner wall. This could be demonstrated without the engine runnning by pushing on the throttle to close it tightly, which would cause it to stick. Pushing it closed lightly caused it to stick slightly, so there was a correlation indicating this as the problem. The solution is simple. Just adjust the limit screw that keeps the plate from fully returning and getting stuck. You will find the screw right on top of the throttle assembly, with a small nut to lock it in place.
    All of the discussion about cleaning the throttle body seems pointless and over-complicated, if my solution works.
  • Steve, I'm trying to replace my 2000 Quest driver power window switch. I clicked on your picture file name in the post #1825, but there is no picture posted. Your pictures will be very helpful.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,251
    I put one pic up in one of my CarSpace albums. Here's the direct link. If you need something different let me know and I'll borrow the camera again.

    Mine is starting to act up again. :sick: I'm going to try the electrical contact cleaner spray soon and try to avoid cutting into it again.

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  • I got only one picture, but it seems like you posted more detailed pictures in the post # 1825 (?). I think that'll be more helpful than the one you posted. Those pictures in the post # 1825 can't be downloaded any more.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,251
    I just checked my photos on my computer and that's the same one that's in the album; the rest of mine are similar - just show the cutting into the plastic to expose the switch. Here's one of the side of the switch:

    imageSee more Car Pictures at CarSpace.com

    Getting the switch out of the door is easy; one screw hidden under a little plastic cap in the handle as I recall removes the whole handle section(don't have the van handy today). Then you can unscrew the switch from the handle section and unhook the wiring harnesses.

    Someone posted about flooding the switch with the contact cleaner so I would try that before taking a hacksaw to the switch. I don't see that post but here's one where an owner was able to get to the innards without destroying the top like I did:

    sparky_b, "Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems" #1909, 29 Jun 2005 8:37 pm

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  • Your new picture was very helpful. At least now I can see how I can replace the whole switch unit for around $80, if I happen to break the top, although I'll try my engine throttle cleaner to clean the contact first, since the engine throttle cleaner is supposed to clean any carbon on a surface.

    Here are a couple of legendary issue with Nissan Quest.

    After I was ripped off for the blower motor resistor when A/C works only at high speed, I decided to repair as much as I can. I paid about $150 to replace the blower motor resistor, but after I realized it's an easy repair, I replaced it for myself at the second time when the resistor didn't work. The resistor costed me about $40.

    The other issue I had was a lower ball joint. I live right next to the Nissan Tech Center in Farmington Hills of Michigan. The lower ball joints are notorious for its fast wear. Other than low fuel economy, I like my Quest.

    Thank you for your quick help. I really appreciate it.
  • Steve, last night I tried to clean the contact inside the switch, but found out it's very hard to access to the innards. I better spend $70 to buy the switch unit.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,251
    Rats. I just purchased some contact cleaner about an hour ago. Guess I'll give it a shot anyway - maybe drill a hole in it.

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  • My van gets jerky when the air is on and only seems to do it at a stop light or sign. Any answers to why that would be? :confuse:
  • Does anyone know the order of bleeding for the 1997 Villager? Is it the same as the 95?
  • I had the same problem, more prevelent in colder temps. I replaced the U-turn hoses (1/4" or 5/16" I think) at the ends of the injector manifolds and cured the problem.
  • i have a 98 village and i am trying to change the right side axle but i have come across a problem, it is hard to get it -the axle- to come out of the bracker in the middle between the transmation and the wheel hub, it is like it's fused together and i need some help in getting lose, any advace out there
  • I have a '99 Quest and the passenger side sliding door is not opening and closing properly. Does anyone know how to get to the top rear hinge? There is a plastic body panel above the channel the hinge rides in, but it is not obvious how you remove it. It seems if that panel comes off I will be able to get to the inside hinge bolts which I think have come loose. Anyone been down this road before?
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,251
    My '99 just has one top hinge and none of the bolts appear to be hidden by any panels. Maybe mine is a bit different from yours. I took a couple of photos since I'm not clear exactly what part you are referring to:

    upper hinge 1

    upper hinge 2

    I haven't messed with the sliding door panels. My service manual is pretty vague. To remove the lower panel you first take off the escutcheon thingy around the door handle. It has 5 clips you pry off. Then you pry off the rest of the panel - there are 10 of those around the edges holding the panel on.

    The narrow upper part of the sliding door panel is held on with three metal clips above the door handle towards the front of the door.

    All it says about removal for all these clips is to wrap the tip of a flat-bladed screwdriver with a cloth. I guess you just start prying.

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  • thanks, I probably am not being too clear here. The panel I am referring to is actually on the outside of the van. It is just above the channel that the door hinge slides along as you open it. (just below the side rear window) I believe if I can get that panel off I can check the tightness of the hinge. The problem I have is that when you open the door, you need to pull out on the left side of it for it to open. I can take a picture of what I am talking about tomorrow as it will probably make more sense.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,251
    Ok, try these two pics and see if they help:

    Waist roller assembly

    Waist rail

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  • Thanks, this looks like what I am trying to get at. I am guessing the screws that hold this thing on can be accessed from the interior of the van, probably by removing the trim panels next to the third row seat. Sound about right?
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,251
    It's hard to tell but it looks like there are 3 bolts under the trim that hold the channel cover on. I took a couple more photos, but I don't have anything in the manual about what's behind the rear trim panel. Maybe you can save the photos and blow them up and make them a bit more legible.

    Side Trim

    Slider adjustments

    Billandy202, hope you figured out your axle out ok. I just have a '99 manual and don't remember too much of a struggle when I did my RF axle a while back.

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  • thanks- I think I should start by pulling off the door panel and seeing if I can make the necessary adjustments that way. The diagram you sent is helpful. What book did that come out of? I tried to find the shop manual for this van at our local library yesterday but they did not have it.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,251
    I got a factory service manual when I got my van. It was a bit spendy (~$120), especially since I'm not much of a mechanic. Factory manuals for newer cars seem to be running around $300, so next time I'll just wait and buy a Haines manual if I get ambitious about trying to fix something.

    I understand Hyundai has (or had; my link is dead) factory manuals on line for free, which is how they all should be. ;)

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