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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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Comments

  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 892
    Is the Pathfinder's 3.3 different than the one in the Quest/Villager? I figured a 3.3 Nissan was a 3.3 Nissan.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,950
    Theories abound. I've always heard that Ford made Nissan make the Villager/Quest engines non-interference when Ford build them under the joint agreement they had, as opposed to the interference one the Pathfinder had.

     

    And the VG engine has come in various flavors for the Pathy, Frontier and Xterra iirc, at least the 3.0 liter version. But I never have found a definitive source that spells it out (although Steve Cutchen's site sounds right to me).

     

    Steve, Host
  • Inlaws just came to dinner and said they were having problems with door locks on there 1997 quest van, it seams the keys,3 of them with one being new wont unlock the doors. they have no problems with the rear hatch door where all three keys work. they send one of the children in the back to unlock the front doors. also doors will lock by them selves
  • That's funny I ran across your comment, I read that my 95 Quest GXE was a non-interference engine. Which I hope that's true!
  • I have a 99 and I am experiencing similiar symptoms. At Thanksgiving, while going down the interstate, I had a ton of rattling and lost oil pressure. Turned out that the screen in the oil pan was clogged.

     

    I have a friend who has a 97 and he says that Nissan has a special oil filter that prevents all of the oil going into the pan when you turn off the motor. It leaves some oil in the heads to help with that, but I haven't gone to Nissan yet to verify.
  • I would like instructions on how to clean the throttle body, as I have had this problem as well.
  • 1993 Nissan Quest. Four-ways work, blinkers work, third brake light works, tail lights work, rear brake light will not work when the brake pedal is depressed. I checked the brake switch and checked to see if power goes to the brake switch. Both checked out ok. Why won't the brake lights work? Thanks
  • jlemolejlemole Posts: 345
    Has anyone ever removed the 3rd row bench seat. If so, how is it done? I have a 2001 Quest, and I'm trying to repair the mechanism which locks the seat into place along its tracks.

     

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

     

    Jon
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,950
    I've had mine out several times on my '99. Move the seat to the middle position first. Then remove two bolts at the front corners (under the round plastic covers), and four more bolts (two at each rear corner). Don't mess with the rails themselves or you'll have alignment issues.

     

    Fold the seat in half and have someone help you ease it out through the sliding doors (it's heavy).

     

    To reinstall, place the seat in the middle position and install the front two bolts, torquing to 25 - 34 ft. lbs. Then slide the seat to the full rear position and install the rest of the bolts (same torque).

     

    There is an adjustment bolt and a tension shaft on the passenger side of the seat that you may want to play with before yanking the seat out. You have to remove the plastic slide release handle to expose the hex shaft (really just another bolt <g>). The tension on this hex shaft should be 17 - 80 ft. lbs. when the 3rd seat can just begin to move. But it sounds like you may need to adjust the cable system. There's an adjustment bolt in a slotted holder in the same area (under more plastic) that can be slid back and forth to adjust the tension on the cable system. Tightening the cable reduces slide release effort.

     

    At least that's what my manual says - I've never played with the slide release gizmo. My scanner isn't installed but if you get stuck maybe I can get a copy of the page to you. But the manual is pretty thin on the seats.

     

    Steve, Host
  • jlemolejlemole Posts: 345
    Steve, many thanks for your response. I'm going to try to tackle it this weekend and I'll update on how it goes. If you do happen to get that scanner installed, I would be very grateful for an e-mail of that manual page to jlemole at comcast dot net.

     

    Jon
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,950
    I'll see if I can get the dust blown off of it and find some drivers for it. But don't get your hopes up too much - the manual isn't very clear about the whole procedure anyway.

     

    Steve, Host
  • Hello Everyone. Just got back from 3500 plus miles trip (2 weeks) to midwest and Canada. We live in TX. My 1999 Quest GXE ran smoothly. MPG was 18-19 at 75+ mph and 23-24 at 60-65 mph. Pretty impressive for a van with 73k miles. I have kept up with regular maintenance since day one. Yet to change the timing belt. Just had the oil change, air filter, and coolant flush and fill before the trip.

     

    Now I like you guys to help me with the O/D light and it's functionality. I have read the owner's manual and understood that at steady 40 or 50 mph, if the O/D button is clicked on the shifter, the O/D kicks in (shifts in lower gear) and the light is on in the dash. It was working as designed. Now on some twisty road in Midwest, I clicked the O/D to have a little more power, but the light never came on. And the van never shifted to the lower gear. That concerns me a bit. Of course in a smooth TX highway it is not an issue.

     

    Does anyone have the O/D button malfunction? I am thinking there is a spring inside the shifter which triggers the sensor. I may have a bad spring perhaps. I will wait for a response on this board. Then I have to take my van to the dealer. Thanks in advance.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,950
    On my '99, if I hit the button, the overdrive light comes on and the tranny downshifts. I've had it downshift at a wide variety of speeds. Knowing the reputation of electrical switches in these vans, it wouldn't surprise me if yours is malfunctioning.

     

    Steve, Host
  • mn_patmn_pat Posts: 67
    my 2k gxe has the exact problems, with the steering wheel mounted volume control sometimes changes radio stations and the plastic "chrome" coating on my interior door handlei is peeling. The peeling plastic chrome is actually pretty sharp, it gave my finger quite a little cut.

     

    At 52k miles its been a pretty decent family vechile. I just wish it got better gas mileage. Last tank was 16.21mpg, yuck!!
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    I guess I'm lucky to have the plain-jane stereo with all controls on the face of it. I have had no radio problems-- 2000 Mercury Villager.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,950
    While palming out a small parking lot dent in my front fender, I just happened to notice that my passenger side CV boot is busted -- the fresh greasy grime was the give-away.

     

    Anyone done one of these lately and what was the cost?

     

    Steve, Host
  • burta10burta10 Posts: 28
    My '96 Mercury Villager had the CV joints refilled with grease recently. I had the Ford dealer here (Germany) do it. You don't want to know the cost. I'm sure it is much less in the states.

    Actually, I replaced the front boot on my Golf GTI a few years ago, I got the type of boot where you wrap it around the joint and glue the seam together lengthwise. It was relatively easy, cheap, and as long as you have a steady hand it works okay.
  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    I had one replaced about a year ago. I ran over a plastic bag when driving on the highway and it got caught on the cv boot and tore it. Since I went many miles before discovering it, the grease was all gone. The mechanic recommended replacing the CV joint as well as the boot as he really couldn't clean the grit out of it and it would eventually require replacing anyway. The majorityof the cost is the labor to do the replacement. The CV joint generally has to come off to replace the boot anyway, so might as well spend the extra $100 or so for the new part. Total was about $250.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,950
    The glue together boots sound a bit tricky. I don't think the boot has been busted long, but the joint does have 100k on it anyway, so I'm thinking new. It can sit in my garage a while as I mull over my options, so anyone else with opinions, feel free to jump in.

     

    Steve, Host
This discussion has been closed.