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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems



  • i think we are having the same prob with our A/C. '93 nissan quest, 190,000 miles, only prob no A/C. charged system, compressor works, but it leaks out as fast as you can put it in. Mechanic at Tuffy said he was 90% sure without looking at the van, because that would have costed 200.00 just for a peak, said that it was the hoses that went to the rear A/C that were leaking (apparently this is a prob with these vans). My question is, when i looked in my haynes manual it shows 4 hoses that are for the heat and A/C?? which ones would i check? is discharging the system necessary if you show no pressure on the A/C gauges?? it reads 0 when you hook up the gauge. The highway robbery mechanic that i talked to wants 100.00 just to discharge the system, which is a total crock, considering i am leaving the crap with them. please let me know if you can help it is 100 degrees here, and with 6 kids i REALLY could use some A/C, but without the charges at the garage! TOTALLY FRUSTRATED IN OHIO......... :confuse:
  • pastorckpastorck Posts: 2
    I have not seen the actual rear A/C linings. However, I am thinking of using 1/4 inch copper piping to supply the rear. Could that work as these are normally used in the plumbing gas jobs?
    How effective is the front A/C working only when temp. are so high with young kids "cooking" in the back?
    Thanks for your prompt feedback folks! :confuse:
  • ken39ken39 Posts: 8
    I have read all over this board about the rear A/c not working but no real fix. My front A/c only works on High speed. Now I read that the problem may be in the front fan relay? Not sure still. Any Ideas? :confuse:
  • aerosnowaerosnow Posts: 13
    can anyone recommend a mechnic in the Queens NYC area? Need to replace belts and water pump but dealers wants $800. Can anyone help?
  • earle1earle1 Posts: 1
    hi .
    also have same problem with front seat belts same year 95 villager.
    i can get them to move from 'b to a' by pushing down on the red button near the park brake, with the door open.
    closing the door returns them to the b,position where they stay!
    what is my-our problem
  • marku1marku1 Posts: 11
    My belts were stuck for one day. After several trips and many attempts to get them to work in the driveway, they still would not budge! Then, my wife returned from the library the next day and said they were working. And they have worked perfectly ever since. Sorry that I can't help.
  • nshaukatnshaukat Posts: 1
    I have 1998 quest and starting experiencing the same problem for last few months. I had to call the road service this weekend as I was locked out due to this problem. Would you please share if you got it diagnosed by the dealer?

  • sparky_bsparky_b Posts: 1
    For the 1999 Quest driver door window switch issue...

    I actually removed the bottom cap of the switch box, and then I carefully pried the circuit board out. It comes out, but as steve said, each of the black switch caps have in them a white doohickey, and that doohickey is then latched onto a white base with hinge bumps on either side (just like the caps are held onto their black bases). The white base is then snapped to the circuit board with press tabs. I think the board must have also had a bit of glue holding it in, but it didn't seem like much.

    So, you have to basically pry around the board (carefully, but firmly) until it pops off each of the switches. Took me a bit to work it loose. When it does come loose, some of the switches will likely come off of their rocker bumps - don't drop any of the switches as they come free, as there is a spring and a small white headpiece that you need, in each.

    Once the board was free, I could see all of those white bases on the top side. I pried off the one for the bad switch, took out the metal rockers in there, and could see that the base connections were pretty bad. I cleaned those using a small wire brush. I then cleaned the rockers and put those back. I put the white base back on, and put the circuit board back in, and put the bottom cap back on. Then I could push each switch back into it's slot. The only thing that I couldn't get put back right was the child window lock, which I really didn't try hard to put back (we don't use it).

    Took me maybe a bit more than an hour all-told, and saved myself $80. My van has 110,000 and it still looks very sharp. Have replaced an oxygen sensor, two ball joints, and a power steering box...I think that's it...

    Hope that's helpful.

  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,012
    That's pretty good - so you were able to attack the problem from underneath and not destroy the black caps in the process. Heh, where were you a few months ago? :shades:

    Mine seem to still be working fine btw.

    Steve, Host

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  • The Van died tonight stranding the wife & Kids. When I went to tow them back, the motor would not get going, even though it would turn over.

    I pulled the distributor, and right away there was the problem. The metal contact arm had broken off the top of the rotor, thus no spark, no inginition.

    The problem I have now is that I can't get the rotor off. I found & removed the screw on the back of the rotor, but it still wont come off. Am I missing something? I tried to pry it off, but ended up busting the back half of the rotor. I just want to be sure before I start to pry again, as I'd hate to break out the whole distributor, - quite costly.

  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    I have not performed this procedure, so there may be some other "trick" involved in removing the rotor, but the (1999) factory service manual says to remove the screw in order to remove the rotor. My guess is that it is just stuck on there good. I would keep working at it. It won't matter if you destroy the rotor when removing, you just don't want to damage the distributor.
  • crit2crit2 Posts: 6
    I am having strange problems with my 2001 Villager. Occasionally, the speedometer will quit working. It usually happens when we are running at 55-65 MPH. It will fluctuate between 0 and the speed you are running. Sometimes it will stay at 0, other times the problem stops and the speedometer works normally. If we shut off the engine it temporarily clears the problem. Needless to say it effects the cruse control and at times the van seems to loose power when the problem is occuring. Has anyone experienced a problem such as this, or does anyone have any ideas?
    Please help.

  • edk1edk1 Posts: 2
    We have a"99 villager 30,000 mi.and experienced the same problem coupled with a misfire and knock sensor code. Mechanics kept giving the car back supposedly fixed.Not!
    The knock sensor was tied to the misfire and turned out to be malfunctioning fuel injector. It seeped fuel into the combustion chamber causing a rich mixture and misfire.
    I bought my own ODBII scanner and determined the upstream O2 sensor was not working. Changed it and got immediate improvement.
    In the course of fooling around, I did change the cap and rotor before the O2 sensor and experienced no change.
    Changing the cap and rotor is relatively easy but if you;ve never done it before, buy a manual and proceed methodically, don't mix up the firing order. You can change the O2 senser too, requires working under the front of the car, proper tools, anti seize compoud and in my case, ( the connectors didn't match ) I had to splice the old connector to the new sensor wire.The sensor was an after market unit.
    Try to find a manual better than Haynes.
    good luck Ed
  • edk1edk1 Posts: 2
    Steve, Change yor speed sensor. Mine began acting up the same way and within a few months quit for good.
  • crit2crit2 Posts: 6
    Thanks, for the advice. Today I pulled the sensor out. I didn't seem to rotate freely, or maybe not as free as I would expect. I cleaned the contacts in the connector, they appeared to have some oxidation, and re-installed. The next step is replacement.
    Thanks again...
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,012
    Is there a similar fix for a sticky tach?

    Steve, Host

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  • jasonimacjasonimac Posts: 1
    Did you ever find the solution to your problem? I am currently having the same problem with my 98 Nissan Quest that I just recently bought from a private owner. We do not have a remote. Any help would be much appreciated.


  • crit2crit2 Posts: 6
    I don't have an answer for your tack, but my earlier work on my sensor was unsuccessful. My wife informed me today that it quit again. Off to the dealer I go...

  • ebrittebritt Posts: 1
    Hi Ken,
    You need to replace the front heater a/c control. Ernie
  • cruznmamacruznmama Posts: 1
    Ive owned this van since 2000 and can honestly say maintainance has been very reasonable and the vehicle itself has been very reliable, but as we know with age and mileage(112,000) come problems. Recently the motor started running rougher, it has a dry rubbing and tinging type sound. We use synthetic oil and it reads perfect on the stick and the vans power still seems to be there, any thoughts. Also, after having the fuel system cleaned because of a sticking gas pedal the check engine light stays on. I have brought it back several times and the dealership just resets it and blames it on the cleaners they used 2yrs. ago. Im not sure if this last group of problems is connected but if anyone has any advice I would appreciate it. Its the turn signal, Ive never experienced any problems with it until Nissan decided to change it out because of a recall. Now my headlights flash dim to bright on their own and on occasions the drivers side goes completely out. Also the brake light and seat belt light indicator go on and off at will. The van goes back to the dealership Thurs. so if anyone has advice that I can give them please let me know. Thank you. :sick: Oh I almost forgot the belts, they squeal like mad and they were just put on a few months back. It used to be for a minute or so not it lasts all day. Nissan has rechecked them along with a couple other garages and they all say the belts are fine. Is it possible for the belt or belts to have a defect. Thanks. :confuse:
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