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VW Golf

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  • Yup, just the same. I could keep fish in the rear passenger footwell. My Golf (same type & year) is due in for the third attempt to correct the fault next Monday (17th October), so I'll let you know whether they finally fix it or not.

    Wowbagger
  • To all, hey I'm new to VW and need some help. I am thinking about buying a ' 97 Golf for short money. The problem is the car starts and runs for only 5 seconds, then shuts off. Could this be a security issues, boot leg key or computer glitch, or do you think it is mechanical, like a fuel pump or ignition problem ?
    Thanks,
    Kevins1955.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    That is how it would behave when the "immobilizer" senses the wrong key. Also, weak battery in the keyfob could do that.

    Of course, the symptoms you describe could be caused by may other things too...
  • mkfmkf Posts: 1
    so i have a 94 vw golf. i've taken good care of it but i know that the spark plugs may need replacing. for a while this summer it felt like the engine was going to stall when i first started driving, even if i wasn't changing gears. after a long drive (about 500 miles) the car won't start. however, the radio and lights work, and when i try to start the alarm goes off for three seconds. anyone know what's going on? thanks so much,
    mkf
  • Sounds like you need to replace some basic ignition items, which may be overheating/failing after the long trips. If you haven't replaced the plugs, ignition wiring, coil, distributor cap and rotor at all since buying the car, they probably are close to failure anyway. Have the coolant temp. sensor checked also. I haven't clue about the alarm problem, though.
  • Have just replaced the battery and alternator with second hand as on tight budget. Just tested battery with voltmeter, volts not increasing on revving engine, still showing 12 volts. Car seems to be starting ok but haven't used it at night yet. Could there be a problem with voltage regulator and is it easy to locate. Battery is one of those that has a green light to show its fully charged. Common problem with golfs or not. Mine is a mark 2 1300 E reg. :mad:
  • I have a 1988 golf mark 2 and have recently noticed leaks in the driver and passenger footwell. Check all the channels are clear and if there are any rust holes on the bottom of either rear or front windscreen. If there is staining on the interior of the roof then this can indicate leaking sunroof etc. Also rust in or around top of engine bay.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Lead-acid batteries have known properties that are the same wether the battery is in an automobile or used in a solar-powered home

    Voltage across battery (as measured with accurate digital voltmeter) should be at least 13.8V for battery to accept diecent charge. One of the WORST things to do to a lead-acid battery is to allow it to be in a less-than- fully-charged state for any length of time. (sulfide build-up on the plates) If you are not seeing this at least 13.8V, expect battery life to be less than optomal.

    Note: I have seen a bad battery can "fool" some charging systems into cutting the voltage back before a full charge is obtained.
  • As a newbie Golf owner, I was surprised when someone told me I had to change the oil pan bolt with every oil change. Is that necessary?
    Also, the same person said I should do the first oil change at 1,000 miles to remove any metal shavings or contamination during the engine break-in period. He also said to use a high-quality aftermarket oil filter.
    I do my own oil changes, and I want to take good care of this car. Any advice on these matters is greatly appreciated!
  • micwebmicweb Posts: 1,617
    Using a new bolt each time is recommended by the factory. The 1,000 mile change is not but I do it too. As for filters, OEM (VW) is best but Bosch and Mobil 1 are also good. (We are talking VW here...)
  • I have a 2003 Golf TDI that I had to bail out this weekend. It's the first I've noticed it. The driver's side floorwell in front and back are both soaked and full of water. I can watch it pool on the back floor. There are no obvious signs of any leaks and I do not have a sunroof or any signs of rusting.
    It started to smell dank, thats how I noticed something was going on.

    Please let me know what you find out .

    Thanks ,
    sunflowerma4
  • I ordered a 2006 Golf TDI GLS auto from my local dealer six weeks ago, today I received the email below from the dealer, I'm disappointed and would like to know what is really up. Originally I wanted a Jetta TDI wagon but several dealers told me they were out of production. Now I'm very hesitant to continue pursuing a VW TDI product at all. anyone, anyone?

    "VW has closed any orders on Golf TDI's and they are not giving me any idea when the production on these will start! I have been back and forth with them to find out the status on your vehicle and they are telling me that they are not producing them as of yet! I know you must be frustrated hearing this as I am, but I will also offer any of the Jetta TDI's that we have coming in, in the next few weeks. let me know how to proceed on this and again please understand that this was not our doing. Let me know?"
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Your dealership should have told you up front that THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS ORDERING A VOLKSWAGEN FROM THE FACTORY. The best any dealership can do is put your name in for a specific option-mix and if one comes off the assembly line, they will try to route it to your dealership.

    I went through this very same thing... I put a down-payment and waited for months. I was told several times that my car was "on the boat", "on the docks" or "on a truck"....but alas... it never arrived.

    I ended up calling another dealership and asked them to get on their computer and try to locate a car that meets my requirements at another dealership.... they called me back 20 minutes later and said they could have it on the lot by wednsday. Needless to say, I got my down-payment back from the orighinal dealer and picked up my car from the dealership that was willing to work a bit to locate a car that met my requirements.
  • Thanks, I'm going to make a few calls elsewhere tomorrow.
  • ncjncj Posts: 1
    As others may have replied, my 2001 Golf with a sunroof leaks once a year or so. I think I have at last figued it out. The drain lines at the front corners of the sunroof gutter exit just below the top hinge of both ront doors. Open the doors an look there is a rubber line protuding an inch or so. For some reson the end of the tubes is flattened - a VW design, who knows why. Pinch these flattend ends and make sure dust, pollen etc, has not sealed them shut. You can test by pouring a litle water down the sun roof drains. I don't know why my Dealer has not checked these each time I'mi n for service other than it's a way to create a $200 service bill!
  • Hi was just wondering if you had any luck in finding out what was causing the water in the footwells because i have the exact same problem would really appreciate it if you could let me know if you any out thanks
    Geoff
  • Thank you. This is very good to know. My 2001 VW Golf just started leaking like 2 weeks ago on the passenger side footwell. Did you correct the problem yourself or did the dealer fix this for you?
  • Vwbmore

    Your problem is likely to be related to your sunroof drain holes not working properly. These are located near the front of the sunroof housing. They exit just below the front door top hinge in a rubber grommet with a ridiculous crimped end. Cut off the end with a pair of scissors so they can flow freely. I bet a load of water flows out. When these are blocked the water builds up in the sunroof housing and leaks through between the sunroof surround and the cars bodyshell, then it flows either down the front door pillar and into the front passenger wells, or back into the rear, depending on the slope on which you park your car. A telltale sign also is if you feel the headlining just above the door, towards the front or rear, it will feel damp. This is the confirmation of the problem. Once you get it draining properly your problems will be over.
  • I HAVE A 1996 VW GOLF. THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION WILL NOT SHIFT OUT OF 2nd GEAR. HAS ANYONE HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM? IF SO HOW DID YOU FIX IT AND IS THIS A PROBLEM I CAN FIX?
  • The transmission may be stuck in "limp home" mode. This mode is engaged when the AT encounters a problem - usually serious. This happened on my 96 Golf AT at 20,000 miles and required major work by the dealer - fortunately under warranty. If you're lucky it may only be an electronic sensor and not the torque converter. Try posting your question on the Rec. Autos. VW group here:
    http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled?gvc=2
    There are mechanics there who can give better advice than I can.
  • Seems that they actually found a fault this time, the seal around the pollen filter.
    I'll just have to see whether this fixes the problem or not, but we've had a lot of rain over the last few days and there's a lot of standing water on the road and up to now it seems to be keeping dry.
  • I just recently purchased a used 2004 Golf GLS 4 speed Auto with 8,000 miles at a Chrysler dealer in MA. The car is still covered by the VW warranty and I emailed vw customer care to have the warranty transferred over to my name which they did. I was driving today on the highway going at about 65 mph when suddenly I felt the car "throttle" violently and the cars velocity was reduced almost immediatelly to about 40 mph. I pressed the accelerator and then the car sped up again only to throttle violently once more and reduce velocity. It felt like the car was stalling in a way. I pulled over shut the engine off and then waited a few minutes. After a few minutes passed, I started the car, it started but shut off automatically 3 seconds later. There was a time when it started and it remained running only to begin vibrating and the engine shutting off after 10 seconds. I am going to the dealership tomorrow; however, I was wondering if anyone new what could have happened to my car. I love this car so much and I think it was a great buy, but I do not want to have any problems =( Any help is appreciated, thanks!
  • micwebmicweb Posts: 1,617
    A similar problem caused me to trade in my 2001 Golf. Ironically at year later I bought a 2004 Golf! Find a good dealer, go there for all your services (it's better for your car than Jiffy Lube etc.), and be patient - it's evidently some type of computer glitch. Try to take it in and have them read the codes (not all trip the CEL light) before shutting off the car, which supposedly flushes some codes.
  • Hey JL,

    My 2005 Golf TDI with only 12000 miles on it is at the dealership as we speak for the same problem. So much water in mine that it activated (shorted out) the airbag indicator light. I have read other forums about this same problem and some dealerships are covering the costs for new carpet or cleaning of the carpet because of mold and mildew due to that it is a manufacturers defect. Yet other dealers including mine are insisting that it is not under warranty for clogged drains causing any flood damage. So far they are unable to find the leak in mine. It is going on two weeks at the dealership.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    If you have been taking it to the dealership for regular maintenance... they were supposed to check the drains according to the maintenance-schedule in the owers manual.

    It seems to me --either way-- they should cover it.
  • Another aspect of water leaks? I have a Mark 4 (2003) Golf & I have noticed it is now very damp under the seat (not the footwell). It has rained a lot recently but I can see no obvious signs of water getting in but under the rear seat is wet & this is now working its way up into the seating itself. The 'bulkhead' under the seating is wet. Any one had similar problems or knows a solution? :cry:
  • :cry: Hi

    I have a Mk 4 (2003)with a very wet floor drivers side front and rear (right hand drive). Had a very expensive quote at the dealers so am keen to find out what is causing the leak. Interested to read of the pollen filter seal and the sunroof drain holes - I havent got a sunroof but will take a look at the pollen filter. Any more suggestions apart from buying some flippers?
  • Two questions for all you Golf III owners. Firstly, the dreaded coil pack issue. First time was fixed under warranty at about 90K miles (I guess I did better here than many), but second unit has failed 35K miles later(stuttering/check engine light in heavy rain- same symptoms as first failure. I'm just assuming it's another coil pack issue). Has anyone tried the epoxy fix that you can find on the web? Before I were to replace the coil pack, I'd want to know that it's not the same inferior part that's made it into this car twice now. Any sources out there that are known to be better than oem?

    Secondly, my cruise control is on the fritz. It would seem to be a problem in the innards of the c.c. stock on the left side of the steering wheel For a long time I was able to wiggle the switch and that would seem to engage it. With time it began to drop out of cruise sporadically, until eventually where now it just doesn't work at all. Any idea how involved/expensive it is to replace the switch in the stock?

    Thanks in advance for whatever light you can shed on this subject for me.
  • zillzzillz Posts: 21
    At last, those of us in the US are supposed to be getting the Golf V sometime this spring. Does anybody know where the prices will start? Right now, a (basic GL 4-door)'06 model in the Mark IV bodystyle, the 2.0, and a stickshift can be had for about $16,800 including "transportation." As you know, the New Jetta's price shot up dramatically from the IV to the V. Even the "Value Editions" which are hard to find were a full 2 grand higher than the previous base Jetta. Will the 5-cylinder Golfs be priced similarly? I would guess that a Golf would be about $1000 less than the equivalent Jetta...but does anybody know?
  • Speaking of Throttle Body...I need some help here. I have a 2001 Golf GL, my check engine light went on...and may be the death of me because we cant get it off. FIrst it was the mass airflow sensor, had that replaced. THen the throttle body, had that replaced..the only thing left for the trouble code was readapting the computer, had that done too. I'm out of options and getting so frustrated. Does anyone have experience with a similar problem. The trouble code that keeps coming up is load detection, value below lower limit...and I have been told that the only things it could be are MAS and throttle body. Any help would be great.
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