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VW Golf

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Comments

  • genuinitygenuinity Posts: 4
    sorry this should be an addition to my 2.0 GLS Problems.

    sorry
  • Unfortunately my car apparently needs a new relay sensor and spark plugs...the repair is totaling over $500. I should have expected this, no car repair is ever less than $400. Hopefully this solves the problem. cheers

    ps. there should be an emoticon for pockets turned inside out.
  • micwebmicweb Posts: 1,617
    Look at it this way. These days a "major maintenance" (30, 60 thousand miles, or 40/80 for VW) usually runs about $500 regardless of make. You are actually getting some real work done for that much money. At least your car doesn't have an undiagnosable problem - sounds like the fix is relatively easy.
  • eutzeutz Posts: 2
    Drove it to work yesterday never tried to start it again until 430pm and the vehicle would not start. It poured rain all day so thought wires were wet ( Damp). Came back the next day two people told me it sounds like timing belt. It just cranks over and you do here a pop back thru carb.

    We tried starter fluid and that didn't even get it to even sound like it was going to start. We have good spark and fuel. Does this sound like a timing belt?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I really hope you do not hear "pop back thru carb"... Volkswagen has been using fuel-injection since the mid-1970s.

    Since the vehicle was running when you turned it off... I would think that the Timing Belt did not change while it was sitting in the parking lot.

    Since you did mention rainy wether -- I would therfore suggest that the IGNITION SYSTEM is the most suspect component. (coils, wires...etc)

    How did you apply the "starting fluid" I really hope you did not spray it into the intake such that the MAF sensor was contaminated.... If so, you will be needing a new MAF sensor.

    I wonder how you checked for "good spark" ?
  • eutzeutz Posts: 2
    Check spark by screw driver and grounding. I said carb as even though it is fuel injected it was thru throttle body.
  • csandersoncsanderson Posts: 2
    Hi im currently having problems with my golf gti 1.8T after last week i took it for a service and when i got it back my ASR light stays on all the time and also my engine management light i think its to do with the same thing. i have taken it back to the garage and he thinks it something to do with the ASR switch he was ordering me one for mon its now thursday and im still waiting for him to call me. Can anyone give me any suggestions as to what may be causing this to happen.
  • jaimie123jaimie123 Posts: 1
    Has anyone else had problems with the side bolster of the driver's seat collapsing? Any suggestions on how to fix it? My seat is flattened out on the left side due to the seat collapsing. Thanks!
  • playaj1playaj1 Posts: 1
    This one has really got me stumped. I recently bought a 97 Golf. I decided to change the spark plugs and wires because the old ones were worn down to the point where the car would struggle in acceleration. Now the car is amazing except for when idling. With the AC off the rpm's stay farely steady fluctuating just enough to notice while in the car without looking at the tachometer. But when i turn the AC off it goes nuts and goes back and forth between 500 and 1000 rmp. After doing this for a few seconds it stalls. When I unplug the mass airflow sensor it does better in that it wont stall but is still very jerky at idle untill I turn off the AC. What can i do!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Your engine is trying to maintain a steady idle... but is "thrashing" around because there is somthing not quite right. (The IAC (Idle Air Controller) can only compensate for so much.)

    You need to think about what the difference is when the AC is turned on. (HINT: Engine has more load on it and the onboard computer sets a higher idle speed.)

    Check for vacuum leaks and also check the IAC
  • I recently bought a 96 golf 4 dr. auto with 120M on it. Got a great deal, so I didn't mind that it needed a new catalytic converter. Replaced that, but the check engine light is now throwing out the code for a camshaft positioning sensor. I found that it was part of the distributor, and replaced it. However, I don't know how to clear the engine codes. Can anyone tell me what pins to jump to read the codes (how many blinks for each code) and how to clear the codes? Also, is there anything else I should replace if the camshaft positioning sensor still is reading bad? Thanks
  • 98golf98golf Posts: 1
    my 98 golf is havin' some real bad problems... it just doesn't start sometimes .. i've replaced the batt( put in a new yellow top in ) that didn't help then replaced the starter that wasn't it either.. it was runnin and starting fine until yesterday.. im confused and have no idea what's wrong with it can someone help .. thankz ... oh i am runnin a powerful system in it but i have a cap in there but if someone knows what's wrong with my baby let me know thanx ... peace
  • juliarjuliar Posts: 1
    We are thinking of buying a 1998 VW GL Golf for our kids. How do these cars hold up in an accident? Repairs...this car has 127,000 1 owner miles. Any help would be welcome.
    Thanks!
  • Check out www.topgear.com that will tell you everything you need to know about any car.
  • jpmccormacjpmccormac Posts: 98
    RE: "We are thinking of buying a 1998 VW GL Golf for our kids. How do these cars hold up in an accident? Repairs."

    A LOT depends on how the previous owner maintained the Golf. VWs generally require careful attention to regular maintenance and strict adherence to VW standards. That said, the Golf is a sturdy car and will run for many more miles. And, its safety record is quite good. Check IIHS, Europes' NCAP or Consumer Reports crash tests.

    NCAP Test on 1998 Golf: http://www.euroncap.com/content/safety_ratings/details.php?id1=2&id2=46

    Get the current owner's repair/maintenance records and review them, then take the car to a good mechanic and have it inspected for wear and tear items - hoses, belts, timing belt change, A/T maintenance, fluid/coolant quality, etc.

    I assume the car has a 2.0L four cylinder. The 2.0 is sturdy but not fast - good for a young driver, I think. The 2.0 gets pretty good mileage. My '96 2.0L w/ A/T gets about 26 city, 30 highway.
  • orchidorchid Posts: 4
    Hello,
    I am a 2001 VW Golf owner, and I am very frustrated with the faulty brake light switch that the 2001 Golfs (and other Golfs manufactured around this time period) are equipped with. I have had my brake light switch replaced FOUR TIMES now, once for each year I have owned the car. It's costly, and frustrating to find myself stranded in park over and over again!!! Why doesn't VW do something about this problem?

    I am urging everyone out there who has experienced a similar problem to file a consumer complaint with the National Transportation and Highway Safety Administration. The NHTSA will investigate only if sufficient consumer complaints are received regarding a particular issue.

    The link to the NHTSA is:

    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/

    or, you can call 1-888-327-4236 to file a complaint.

    Thanks for reading, and drive safe!
  • benjaminrbenjaminr Posts: 1
    I also have a 2002 VW golf and the EPC light comes on for me also, but when it does I am not able to move the gear shift. It rights itself but in its own sweet time.... I am taking it to my local repair shop Monday, but they are concerned they may need to refer me to a VW dealer as they do not have the software to diagnose the problem.
  • momentum1momentum1 Posts: 1
    can it be done to my golf 01
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The brake-switch problem HAS been corrected by VW by superceeding the switch with one that is more reliable.

    Your specific problem seems to be one of the following;

    1) Your dealership does not know the "trick" to installing a new switch and adjusting it properly.

    2) They are replacing the WRONG switch. (there are 2 switches on some vehicles)

    The proper corrective action for both of the above cases is the same ... have somone competent do the job!

    In neither case should your issue be attributed to VW. They have done their part in identifying the problem (faulty switch) and providing replacement switches free of charge.

    SURPRISE! There is already a listing for your described problem in the NHTSA!! (that is why VW has responded with free replacement of the brake-light switches)
  • alfmz3alfmz3 Posts: 14
    I have a Golf 2004 Aut. I think 2.o l is not enough for the weight of that car; but std is different.
    I'll buy a std one before it changes.
  • symarronsymarron Posts: 1
    Hi all! I'm looking at at at 05' GL 2.0 with 55 000 km (not quite sure what that translates into miles, perhaps 27 5 -30?) Just wondering pros/cons. How are they in the snow? On the highway? Any big problems? Just would like a more reliable car with more space and somewhere for the dog to hang out. Price is around $17 000.

    Thanks a bunch!
  • Hello all,

    I was wondering if anyone had had a similar problem or can help.

    I am finding that my 97 Golf is stalling (in any gear/speed) after it has been turned off for a short peroid of time following an extended driving time (at least half an hour). it will run for several hundred meters and then stall. this will happen several times. the radio/lights remain on but the engine stalls.

    if i start the car after more than 30 minutes following driving i have no problem and can drive long distances. If i drive a short distance, stop the car for a short period of time then it restarts and then runs fine.

    it sounds temperature related, but there is plenty of coolant and the temperature guage is in the mid range. it has had a recent service
    and oil change (+ new sparkplugs) 300 miles (500kms) before the problems began.

    there are no clunking sounds and the engine when running sounds as healthy as always.

    i would greatly appreciate any help on this matter,

    cheers, chris
  • jerad566jerad566 Posts: 1
    Hi:

    I live in Phoenix AZ and I am looking for a good VW mechanic? Any ideas?
  • i have spoken to my mechanic and he thinks that this is probably the crank angle sensor or the no. 30 relay.

    he is a VW specialist and usually spot on. he has fixed several 94-98 Golfs with similar problems and so it looks like this may be the money.

    hope this is of use. i will post again when i get the fix if it is successful.

    has anyone else had this part replaced?

    cheers, chris
  • My '05 GL automatic (12k miles) has been doing fine, but a few weeks ago I started it up and couldn't shift out of Park. I checked the startup routine: turn on engine, apply brake, take off parking break, shift. It just wouldn't budge. I kind of wrestled with the shifter for a while, pushing in the button repeatedly and stuff, and after a while it seems it fixed itself and I was able to shift. Things went smoothly.

    It happened again a week later. This time, though, while struggling with the shifter, the whole knob came off in my hand!

    Theres like, a shaft, and some kind of axial plastic thing in the middle that goes up inside the knob, and an outer chrome plastic sheath. I put the knob back on, pushed it down, and pulled the sheath up - it has bendy 'teeth' like things that grip the inside of the knob. Once I did that, it seemed OK and the car shifted fine.

    Twice since then the knob has come off in my hand again. Like, it's not really attached all that well anymore?

    Is this normal? e.g., should the knob come off easily if you pull upwards on it? Is there a simple easy fix (rather than waiting 2 weeks for an appointment at the dealer)? Is it dangerous?

    Thanks
    -L
  • makotomakoto Posts: 6
    the only vw mechanic in phoenix that anyone recomends is exklusiv mostor sports (www.exklusivmotorsports.com). it's on the north side of town.
  • makotomakoto Posts: 6
    how do you get a replacement brake switch free of charge? i had mine replaced in january which cost me like 120 bucks, and now it's failing again. i don't really feel like spending that money again - especially since it's only been like 7 months since i had it replaced before.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You only get ONE brake-switch installed for free when you have the recall-work done that covers it.

    Perhaps you need to chat with your service-advisor about your specific situation?

    As for the cost of the part... I just looked up the "brake light switch" on 2 seperate websites... it runs about $5 bucks. I know it takes about 10 minutes to install.

    Here is an example:
    http://www.tdiparts.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=brake+light+- - switch&x=4&y=11
  • 3 niggly little electrical problems with my 97 VW Golf CL... has anyone had similar?
    1. Both front and rear indicators on drivers side flash very fast and very faintly when indicating a left turn. Bulbs are good. Right indicators are working fine.
    2. Intermittent windshield wiper has died, but other speeds are working fine.
    3. Hatchback door no longer opens with the electronic button key, however, it will open when I press the button in the glove box. All other functions (doors, alarm etc) on the electronic key still work.
    I know that the local VW dealer will charge me a fortune just to find out what might be wrong.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I can give you some troubleshooting hints... but cannot diagnose the problems for you.

    1. Remove all bulbs from LEFT circuit and re-install one at a time and try the left winkers each time. You may locate a bulb-socket that is defective.

    2. May be the switch itself... I have heard of these going bad. Also, intermittent wipers use an electronic timer. (while all other wiper speeds do not pass thru the timer)

    3. I have no clue... since all other thing seem to work - are you CERTAIN that you are HOLDING the button down to release the hatch? (releasing the hatch is the only function that requires HOLDING the button down for several seconds.)
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