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VW Golf

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  • symarronsymarron Posts: 1
    Hi all! I'm looking at at at 05' GL 2.0 with 55 000 km (not quite sure what that translates into miles, perhaps 27 5 -30?) Just wondering pros/cons. How are they in the snow? On the highway? Any big problems? Just would like a more reliable car with more space and somewhere for the dog to hang out. Price is around $17 000.

    Thanks a bunch!
  • Hello all,

    I was wondering if anyone had had a similar problem or can help.

    I am finding that my 97 Golf is stalling (in any gear/speed) after it has been turned off for a short peroid of time following an extended driving time (at least half an hour). it will run for several hundred meters and then stall. this will happen several times. the radio/lights remain on but the engine stalls.

    if i start the car after more than 30 minutes following driving i have no problem and can drive long distances. If i drive a short distance, stop the car for a short period of time then it restarts and then runs fine.

    it sounds temperature related, but there is plenty of coolant and the temperature guage is in the mid range. it has had a recent service
    and oil change (+ new sparkplugs) 300 miles (500kms) before the problems began.

    there are no clunking sounds and the engine when running sounds as healthy as always.

    i would greatly appreciate any help on this matter,

    cheers, chris
  • jerad566jerad566 Posts: 1
    Hi:

    I live in Phoenix AZ and I am looking for a good VW mechanic? Any ideas?
  • i have spoken to my mechanic and he thinks that this is probably the crank angle sensor or the no. 30 relay.

    he is a VW specialist and usually spot on. he has fixed several 94-98 Golfs with similar problems and so it looks like this may be the money.

    hope this is of use. i will post again when i get the fix if it is successful.

    has anyone else had this part replaced?

    cheers, chris
  • My '05 GL automatic (12k miles) has been doing fine, but a few weeks ago I started it up and couldn't shift out of Park. I checked the startup routine: turn on engine, apply brake, take off parking break, shift. It just wouldn't budge. I kind of wrestled with the shifter for a while, pushing in the button repeatedly and stuff, and after a while it seems it fixed itself and I was able to shift. Things went smoothly.

    It happened again a week later. This time, though, while struggling with the shifter, the whole knob came off in my hand!

    Theres like, a shaft, and some kind of axial plastic thing in the middle that goes up inside the knob, and an outer chrome plastic sheath. I put the knob back on, pushed it down, and pulled the sheath up - it has bendy 'teeth' like things that grip the inside of the knob. Once I did that, it seemed OK and the car shifted fine.

    Twice since then the knob has come off in my hand again. Like, it's not really attached all that well anymore?

    Is this normal? e.g., should the knob come off easily if you pull upwards on it? Is there a simple easy fix (rather than waiting 2 weeks for an appointment at the dealer)? Is it dangerous?

    Thanks
    -L
  • makotomakoto Posts: 6
    the only vw mechanic in phoenix that anyone recomends is exklusiv mostor sports (www.exklusivmotorsports.com). it's on the north side of town.
  • makotomakoto Posts: 6
    how do you get a replacement brake switch free of charge? i had mine replaced in january which cost me like 120 bucks, and now it's failing again. i don't really feel like spending that money again - especially since it's only been like 7 months since i had it replaced before.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You only get ONE brake-switch installed for free when you have the recall-work done that covers it.

    Perhaps you need to chat with your service-advisor about your specific situation?

    As for the cost of the part... I just looked up the "brake light switch" on 2 seperate websites... it runs about $5 bucks. I know it takes about 10 minutes to install.

    Here is an example:
    http://www.tdiparts.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=brake+light+- - switch&x=4&y=11
  • 3 niggly little electrical problems with my 97 VW Golf CL... has anyone had similar?
    1. Both front and rear indicators on drivers side flash very fast and very faintly when indicating a left turn. Bulbs are good. Right indicators are working fine.
    2. Intermittent windshield wiper has died, but other speeds are working fine.
    3. Hatchback door no longer opens with the electronic button key, however, it will open when I press the button in the glove box. All other functions (doors, alarm etc) on the electronic key still work.
    I know that the local VW dealer will charge me a fortune just to find out what might be wrong.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I can give you some troubleshooting hints... but cannot diagnose the problems for you.

    1. Remove all bulbs from LEFT circuit and re-install one at a time and try the left winkers each time. You may locate a bulb-socket that is defective.

    2. May be the switch itself... I have heard of these going bad. Also, intermittent wipers use an electronic timer. (while all other wiper speeds do not pass thru the timer)

    3. I have no clue... since all other thing seem to work - are you CERTAIN that you are HOLDING the button down to release the hatch? (releasing the hatch is the only function that requires HOLDING the button down for several seconds.)
  • brkdwnbrkdwn Posts: 3
    In fun, I recently replaced my heater core in my car--and at the time it was the only thing that was wrong. Once I had the dash completely reassembled my car would not start. When attempting to turn over, there was a clicking sound (starter relay?) followed by the cd player trying to eject repeatedly, then the alarm would click weakly trying to turn on, finally succeeding. I was told that if the battery was not fully charged this would happen. Charged the battery and it is doing the same thing. Any ideas since my reassembly was the reverse order of the removal?
    Thanks kindly.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I assume that you had the battery DISCONECTED while you had things torn apart. (if not... you may have fried some circuits or blown a fuse.)

    What you describe sounds like what we electronics folks call a "ground loop". Check all grounds to your dashboard to make sure they are all solidly connected. (Verify with ohmmeter to be less than 0.05 ohms to a "known good" body ground point.)

    Another way to troubleshoot ground problems is to monitor the VOLTAGE between a dashboard ground point and a "known good" body ground.... then attempt to start engine. The voltage should NEVER go above 0.25 Volts. I like to use a "peak holding" meter to catch spikes.

    Since you suggest that the radio is involved, one test condition may be the "radio case" -to- "body ground" using the above VOLTAGE test while starting.

    After you have done the above tests - I would be interested in what you found.
  • mine is kind of breaking so i bought one but after reading the haynes manual i need an engine hoist to fit it because the engine drops when you remove the bracket. Anyone have any ideas how to overcome this or do i need to go to a mechanic?
  • Hello, I have a 2001 1.8T Golf, and I love it!!! Recently I have been having trouble, my car will not start up first thing in the morning. It will stall about two times and when I finally get it started, the engine will idle about 1000 rpms higher than the normal idle. After warming it up it runs great for the rest of the day. My check enging light has been on, the problems are; P0116 Enging Coolant Temp CKT Rang/Perf and P1296 Manfacurer(Not spelled wrong?) Contrl.Fuel Air Metering. I was just wondering if anyone knew exactly what part I should be buying. My brother said he would work on it but he is not used to German cars and he does not know where to start. Thanks to anyone who helps me along the way. P.S. I just recently replaced my water pump, thought the P0116 error would go away.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The first thing you need to understand that a "code" does not necessarrarrly translate into a "part you need to buy"

    The codes are just INDICATORS of situations that the onboard computer has identified. These indicators should be used as hints to help you diagnose a problem. The codes NEVER tell you what is wrong.

    Once you understand the above... you can start to narrow down on your problem.

    My suggestion.... consider investigating the engine-coolant-temparature sensor. These were KNOWN to have problems on the 2001s.

    Also consider looking into your MAF (MassAirFlow) sensor to make sure it is working as expected. There is a factory recall on the MAF for the 2001s.
  • i have a 1995 Vw golf 3 celebration 2.0l 5 speed. I just replace my plugs,dis cap, plug wires,and had to adjust the timing by 20 degrees, i also had to take off the cadillac converter because of the thing bogging down plus it was in bad shape. im not at all knowladgable about the sensor on the convertor. but i couldn't get the sensor out so the wiring was cut. now my car dies after giving the car gas. will i have to reset the computer or will i have to get a new sensor and reattach to the pipe. :cry:
  • If you don't get a quick or helpful reply here, you might want to post your question on these forums also:

    http://groups-beta.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled?gvc=2

    http://forums.vwvortex.com/zeroforum?id=3

    Good luck.
  • I had my VW Golf II (1992) heater core replaced this week by the way. I had the same problem from initial cold starts and early morning stalls then it was okay for rest of day. Before we proceeded with the heater core job I was checking my vehicle out with a knowledgeable VW mechanic. He noticed an unusual clicking sound when the vehicle cold started. We weren't able to 100% trace it. It seemed to be coming from the computer (under the hood, far rear right just under hood). mechanic reckons it may be a faulty connection between the computer and it's large connector plug, possible short or whatever. thats where 'click' seemed to be coming from. Maybe check for click sound there.

    another thing to check out is your injectors and the injector seals. they may be dirty need cleaning or replacement. not sure of part number.
  • I recently had my heater core replaced too in my VW Golf II (1992)

    Before we proceeded with this job I was checking my vehicle out with a knowledgeable VW mechanic. He noticed an unusual clicking sound when the vehicle cold started (not otherwise). We weren't able to 100% trace it.

    It seemed to be coming from the computer (under the hood, far rear right just under hood). peter reckons it may be a faulty connection between the computer and it's large connector plug, possible short or whatever. thats where 'click' seemed to be coming from. Maybe check there.

    Hope this incomplete information helps!
  • VW Canada has decided to bring back the Golf, and sell it along side the Rabbit. The rather amazing thing is that the soon to be available City Golf will sell for $3,600 (Canadian) less than it did in 2006, although it is substantially the same car. There will also be a City Jetta, also reduced in price.
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