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Ford Focus ZX3

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Comments

  • tjystjys Posts: 3
    I paid $9403 for a brand new yellow 2003 ZX3 in March 2004 because no one wanted it. I had a Mustang and was looking for a daily driver. Boy did I hit the jackpot! This car has been absolutely wonderful to the extent that I'm looking at buying an additional 2008 Focus for my wife to drive. I've had zero problems with the 2003 but I follow all the federal maintenance schedules and use synthetic oil. I am disappointed that a Focus hatchback isn't offered this year. I've been looking around for new 2007 ZX3's but the price is still high ... and all of them are loaded. All I want is automatic, AC, and cruise. :shades: :shades:
  • tjystjys Posts: 3
    Has anyone used H&R or Eibach springs to lower their Focus? Is it easy to do? What problems if any were encountered?
  • breisterbreister Posts: 5
    With my2003 FF ZX3 I had occasionally a problem with starting. When that happened I would take the key out and start again and then it worked. This car got totaled 2 weeks ago on a very icy road but I was lucky enough to find a 2005FF ZX3 and this one has the same problem with starting but worse :cry: . I hsve this car 10 days and it has refused to start several times already (13.000 miles on it). Is this a problem inherent to this type of car. Do I do anything wrong? The manual is useless.
  • rapidrickrapidrick Posts: 70
    Sorry 2 hear about your problem. I've got an 03 ZTW that has NEVER failed to start. Always first time, every time. You don't apply throttle when you start, do you?
  • breisterbreister Posts: 5
    I hold the clutch and the brake pedals down.
  • tkleetklee Posts: 1
    :sick: i have a 2003 zx3 with the weirdest heater problem. when it is warmed up with the temp gague needle pointing straight up, i turned on the defroster the first time and the floor and vents the second time, and i could actually watch the needle droptill it was just above the cold mark and the heat "ran out" and started blowing almost cold air, but far from warm. the car hasnt been drove much this winter due to BOTH of the outer door handles being broke. good thing the gilfriend took care of the hatch wih the top of the garage door frame. yes she tried to back out of the garage with the hatch open. so know it wont latch without the use of the ratchet strap. almost forgot to mention the windshield wipers broke. the ball joint actually poped apart. built ford tough my [non-permissible content removed]
  • 124,000 miles. I'm pretty sure I got a good one.

    Problems:
    A/C resistor blown (warranty)
    Recalls (two visits, great service)
    Head gasket (warranty)
    Passenger side rear-seat access lever (twice!)
    Windshield seal separation, bottom by wipers (warranty)
    Uncomfortable seats!
    Broken mount for hood latch (interior). I shove it under the dash.

    Good:
    Brakes changed at 74,000
    Gas mileage still between 27-30mpg
    I bought this cause it was cheap (13,000) and it reminded me of the European cars I drove (I was in Germany for 5 years and drove an Audi and Ford Mondeo alot).

    It broke a spring and is in the shop as I type. SVT suspensions are a surplus right now, so I picked one up for $295 plus new strut bearings ($70) and $300 labor. I'm just waiting for the exhaust to fall off and the clutch to blow. Otherwise, I'm pretty damn happy with this thing. It's a great looking car, really. I'm so glad I don't have one of the new flat-dash models. And I think someone is on acid at Ford. There's a new 2008 ZX4 (or whatever they're called now) across the street and is sits super high and the styling is taking a baaaad turn. We have a 2005 Freestyle and I love that it's controls are almost identical to my Focus. It's a good car too, but it's only an 18mpg car and I'm waiting for that CVT to explode...after warranty....
  • tjystjys Posts: 3
    Has anyone done business with Northcoast Performance? They have Roush lowering springs and a SVT damper kit that I would like to install on my 2003 ZX3. The prices seem reasonable but I, nor anyone I do business with, have not heard fo them. I've tried to call them but all I get is a busy signal until after thier business hours. I've left messages but I get no return calls. I get the impression they aren't concerned with my patronage and that speaks volumes to me about their customer service and quality of parts. Help please.
  • im going to turbo my focus with a 70mm turbo and i was wondering how big injectors to go with and also im looking for any turbo parts for a focus or other motor parts
  • razz44razz44 Posts: 7
    I am having problems with the idle speed does anyone have any ideas of what to do to fix it i had the test done all it said was lean bank one
  • I have a 2001 ZX3.
    Apparently, there is this LITTLE BITTY wire that runs to one of my battery terminals. It has come loose 2 times now, and when it does, it kills my car. It won't start. But the lights and air and radio and eveyrthing turn on. The car just doesn't actually start.

    WTF is this little wire???? Why is it there??? What can I do to keep it from coming loose and keeping my car from starting?

    I probably sound like I have no idea what I'm talking about, because I really don't. I just know this wire is what is making my car act stupid. Please help!
  • Lots.

    1. Replaced the starter (Try not to do this yourself. According to my husband and the mobile mechanic he had to call to help, Ford Focuses have THE hardest starters to replace of any car ever.)

    2. Replaced the battery.

    3. Had 3 new keys made. (Just stopped working one day.)

    4. The thing that pops the hood, FELL out of the dash, and now gets stuck under the brake at the most inoportune times.

    5. Randomly the E brake light comes on, even though I NEVER put the E brake on.

    6. Back windshield wiper comes on by itself.

    7. Headlights won't work all the time unless they are on bright.

    I think my car is possessed.... or just a POS.
  • My car is in the body shop with damage to the left front drivers side to the tune of $2800.00. Do you feel I should take it to a mechanic after it is done at the shop ? Does anyone know of a mechanic in Los Angeles or surrounding areas that you really trust ? The car only has 52,000 miles on it and I bought it four months ago.

    Also sometimes when I depress the clutch to start it nothing happens, so I let it out and depress it again. Any idea what this may be.

    Thank you.
  • papawaltpapawalt Posts: 1
    I have just purchased an 03, ZX3. so far seems to run and drive well, fun actually. Has 110,000k. very clean, what should i expect as far as reliability? Car fax says oil has been changed every 3k since new. all service has been done since new. rear door latch not working from dash, key does not fit, opens only with fob. Drivers door does not lock with fob. Wind noise through drivers door. So far happy with car. bought for $4800. :)
  • jermalu23jermalu23 Posts: 1
    Ok, i have a standard 5spd 2001 zx3, 2.0 zetec engine, dohc that hits 3000rpms @ 70mph. Apparently, i've been running it that way since i got it but never affected the vehicles performance til 8months later. Now, once it hits 3000rpms, the engine would kind of shut down but not fully. It feels like it automatically made a sudden stop @ 70-75mph(if u know what i'm talking about). Then the Multi-symptom warning light would come on, just until u slow it down below 3000rpms, then it'll go away. Now, i've been driving it under 66mph just to be safe. It doesn't overheat. However, the temp guage is almost @ mid point. I did replace the thermostat housing cuz it was leaking & the thermostat, but it started leaking again. Even before & after, with the coolant @ its normal with no leak for a month, it had no affect to the heating problem of the engine.
    I have no idea what to do. The ac/heat still works perfectly. Can any relate or could help me with this issue? Much appreciated.
  • For some time now one of my headlights has been dim. When I asked my regular mechanic about it repeatedly, he would say nothing was wrong when he checked. Now, my headlights are stuck in the bright position, right headlight is bright, left headlight is dim and I cant click them back to normal. Is this an issue just with a fuse or something more ominous?
  • Ive been trying to troubleshoot a leak with my 2000 ZTS that I can see just under the thermostat housing. Ive replaced both the upper and lower heater hoses that go into the housing along with the thermostat, thermostat gasket/o-ring and the thermostat housing to head gasket/o-ring. Is there a 3rd gasket/o-ring I should check or replace that is associated with the thermostat housing? Do the screws that attach the thermostat housing cover need to have the gasket/sealant applied to them and/or do they need to be torked down? Do you use the blue silicone that is flexible that could possibly flake off into the thermostat or do u use the Permatex form a gasket? Also there is a hole under the housing that looks like maybe a hose would go on under the housing and to the left of the lower heater hose-what is that for? I also heard about an aluminum plug under the thermostat housing that has an o-ring seal but dont see it. Can anyone please HELP ME :( ID BE ETERNALLY GRATEFUL
  • i am having the same problems you are. but i dont know what little wire you are speaking. please enlighten me, i need to try something to get it started.
  • dvc1492sdvc1492s Posts: 13
    What a shame. I would agree with you to go and get a spare key immediately, if the new fords are doing this.

    My key broke off in the hatch. Got it out but can't use it to program a new one with the other original. I don't understand why Ford would do such a thing. Having one good key is all you should need to program a new one.

    Now a new key cost $25 for the key and $80 to have the dealer program it.
    Jack
  • The problem is the thermostat housing, which is made of plastic, has a crack in it. It will leak once the system is hot and pressurized. I just put one in my car. $26.99 at advance auto. When replacing, do not over tighten and crack the new one.
  • not completely sure but that wire connects to the engine shut off ( which is by passengers right calf ) if it keeps coming off just use some red lock tight and if you still cannot get it to start the wire is broken from there to engine cut off or the engine cut off part is bad
  • okay after you replaced the starter did that take care of the key fob problem

    the head light and whiper problem is probably in that hole mechanism ( easy fix )

    the break switch problem is one of two things
    it has come loose and needs adjustment or there is a lot of junk that has built on it and not letting the switch to go all the way down
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