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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)

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  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,687
    the timing belt will go 90K on that car without a problem, but if I were you I might change it sooner, simply because of the years. That mileage is VERY low for the year. It hasn't been driven enough IMO. Don't change the timing belt now though, wait until at least 60K or so. Get a feel for the car first.

    I am very surprised if you already have broken CV joints at that mileage - they do not deteriorate with age, unless the boots crack and all the lube drains out. Broken CVs sound like a clicking that speeds up to sound like loose pebbles in a can when you are on the roll.

    The warranty probably is not worth it - these cars are rock solid, but it might be worth it for you to get a thorough inspection from a mechanic so you can be aware of any issues it might have right now.

    khov, your message is more perplexing. Yes, if you have a '96 LS with leather, it is an SE, and you should know that, because it should have a little silver plate just below the right rear taillight that says "special edition". If it doesn't, there is always the possibility it is aftermarket leather. I don't know the miles, so I can't tell if $4000 is a good deal, but if it has been hit badly, $4000 may well be too much. How does the front seem odd?

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • bought my acura today...drove it for the first time on the streets of chicago...almost ended up wrongside into oncoming traffic, but then took it 40 miles on the freeway
    this car is really nice to drive...its like falling in love with a car!!
    yes nippononly i think there is no clicking/ pebbles in can sound so jts seem ok
    and i'll wait till 60k for the timing belt
    i did get it checked by a firestone mechanic b4 buying...there is an oil leak; and brake and auto trans fluids need to be changed
    what is your take on maintenance...dealer vs friendly corner mechanic?
    and this car was not driven much at all for last 6 weeks since the owner left the US nd left it to stand outside in the snow...anything special i should look into?
    thanks and will enjoy this ride i am sure!
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,687
    can handle this car no problem. The one thing that was tricky about those cars was replacing the timing belt - VERY easy to get wrong, and instant destructo if so. When the time comes for that, you may want to consider going to the dealer, or at least a Honda specialist.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • adamssjadamssj Posts: 11
    Well, I went ahead and bought the 4 door GSR sedan. Everything about the car seems to be awsome. The leather and interior is in mint condition. The paint is awsome except for a few marks left by bird droppings and a couple dings from someones shopping cart. The only thing I dont like about it is this noise it has. Now the lady showed documents for all the services by the acura dealer and the dealer supposedly said this noise was normal. But what it is, is about everytime I hit 3000rpms to about 3500 rpms there's this vibration noise you can hear that's kind of loud. once it gets past 3000 to 3500 rpms it goes away but I'd like to get that taken care of if possible. Has anyone else heard of anything like this? My car is a 1996 and supposedly alotta the models around this year had something like that, but I think im gonna devote my paycheck comming up in a few days to having the car taken in and looked at just to make myself feel better. Any input?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,687
    no specific input...the sound is coming from the interior then? Should just be a matter of tracking it down (time-consuming but not too difficult).

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • adamssjadamssj Posts: 11
    Okay I feel better now, I called the closest acura dealership to me and talked to a guy who apprently knew exactly what the sound was. I guess a lot of those mid-year integras had this same problem which is nothing big. He said it's a vibration in the A-pipe (whatever that is)which is a pipe within a pipe that vibrates and makes that somewhat loud echoing vibrating sound. He said not to worry about it and that it has no effect on your car performance wise. I then asked him "So I shouldn't even worry about taking it in to have it fixed or anything?" And he was like no not really and especially beacuse the Apipe is NOT cheap to do. I didnt ask how much and just took his word for it. So in short I guess its not a big deal and the car is perfectly fine then...so long as I can bare the stupid noise every now and then!
  • I'm thinking of buying a 2000 GS sedan with 45000 miles for $9000. Car is in good shape. Is this a good deal? Also I have never owned an Acura before. Does it need premium gas or is regular unleaded gas okay? Are parts and repairs a lot more expensive than they would be for a Honda Accord or Toyota Camry? I'm also thinking about buying a 1999 Infiniti I 30 with 73500 miles for 8995. But I think it requires premium unleaded gas and I don't think I want to pay twenty cents a gallon more for every gallon of gas, especially with gas prices going up. Very different cars but both have their plusses and minuses. I am changing jobs and will be driving thirty miles to work now. I like the sporty drive and mpg of the Integra and the comfort of the I30. Are Acuras more dependable and reasonable to repair and maintain? Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,687
    has the 140 hp non-VTEC engine, so you can run regular gas in it. The I30 is the Infiniti version of the Maxima, so if I am not mistaken you can also run regular in that, if you like. There is a slight knock to performance, but it doesn't hurt the engine.

    $9000 for a five year old GS with 45K is a good deal, at least in my area, but so is the I30 deal you mentioned. Integras last forever and a day without a lot of trouble. Common repairs are not notably more expensive than for an Accord. Remember that keeping up with timing belts is crucial for the Integra.

    Obviously, even with a commute that is mostly free-flowing highway, you will save a goodly amount of gas money in the Integra.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • Hey Adam,

    I have the same thing happening to me on my 1997 Acura Integra GSR coupe. I have owned mine since it was brand new. Over the years there was that rattling noise around the 3500 or so rpm while shifting. To me it sounded kinda iffy like i should take it in and check it out. I did, the dealer said the same thing as yours did, it was the A-pipe, and he said its nothing major, but the sound was never there before. I guess its nothing major as they said it was. If i had fixed it the whole labor and everything would cost me about a $300 price. So, not to worry, my acura is in perfect condition, it just sounds like theres some exhaust on it or something...but It'll do fine, this was 2 years ago, and it still makes that sound.
  • kbizzlekbizzle Posts: 1
    i recently bought a 95 integra. How do i tell if it is a gsr. the guy i bought it from told me it was i just want to be positive .
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,687
    a gsr, it has VTEC, and in that case there will be a little silver panel under the right rear taillight that says "VTEC". Assuming the car hasn't had any major bodywork at the back where the badges weren't replaced, this will be the easiest way for you to tell visually.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • harms1harms1 Posts: 1
    Hi there -

    I just purchased a 95 LS 2dr 5-speed, 125K miles. The car is in excellent condition and runs extremely well. However, when it gets cold (around 50 deg - okay, chilly - cold for southern California), the front suspension squeaks noticeably when you go over a bump. The sound only lasts for a moment (the time it takes the suspension to deal with the bump). When it warms up (around 70, say), there is no noise at all (well, you might get a little if you go over a big speed bump). The woman I bought it from (middle aged, original owner), never noticed anything. She garaged the car and never drove it hard. Can I grease this squeak away or is it something more serious?
  • mk3mk3 Posts: 1
    I'm looking at a 90 integra with an auto trans that will not shift higher than second gear. Any ideas on whether this is mechanical or an electronic problem?

    thanks
  • If you have not bought your warranty yet:::go to:

    www.insurancepoliciesonline.com go on left side to car warranties, clicl on cars, for your car you can get a 48/48 zero deductible for 1085.00 check it out, as i bought a 99 integra LS with 15,000 miles in december...This warranty is underwritten by AON Corp, a Virginia surety company, in business over 40 years. Carmax's extended warranties are underwritten by AON...I have heard mixed things about 1source, and it is $500.00 more...GOOD LUCK!!

    :shades: :shades: :shades: :shades:
  • well i have a question i feel kinda stupid asking it, but everytime i ask somebody what vtec means I always get a different answer. so please can somebody tell me what vtec means please!
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,687
    what exactly it stands for - it is something like "variable valve timing and engine control".

    It basically is the first type of variable valve timing Honda ever used. It has now been supplanted by all sorts of more modern controls that continuously vary the valve timing, some on the intake and exhaust valves, as well as varying lift and all sorts of other stuff.

    But originally, VTEC just did two-stage valve timing, with a crossover point way up high (like 5000 rpm) where it went to a different cam that changed the timing to allow for better high rpm breathing. Consequently, you got a huge power surge as it went onto the hot cam above that engine speed. It was loads of fun! The i-VTEC that most Hondas have these days is nowhere near as much fun, although of course it is much more sophisticated and provides for power at lots of engine speeds, even low ones. The new ones never take off like jet engines above 5000 rpm like the old ones did.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • thanks nipponly for answering my question. I just bought a 94 acura integra Ls for 4,200 with a 110,000. It was a good buy i think it was owned my an older lady that just drove it from work and to her house it. She put a new timing belt and a new clutch. Im glad i bought the car its very fun to drive. the only thing i think it needs is wider tires the suspension can take the turns at high speeds :D but the tires start to scream. should I get new wheels and tires to let the suspension hug the road a little?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,687
    back then was only using something like 195-section tires, right? I would say it could definitely benefit from wider tires, and larger rims too, if you have the money. I can't remember when they went to standard 15" rims, but actually it might have been the '94 model, so you may already have them. In which case, start with the tires and see what a difference they make. I bet it will be a bunch. Also, "Grandma" may have put on some "grandma tires", which could be part of the problem. There is a big performance differential between Costco specials and good performance tires, especially if you go with summer tires. I have seen used cars that were actually running on tires that were speed-rated lower than OEM. That makes a HUGE difference.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • biggy_sbiggy_s Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 GSR with stock rims (15") and am looking for good performance summer tires. Any recommendations? Has anyone tried the BF G-Force Sports or the Kumho Supras?

    Thanks.

    B.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,687
    some people who swear by the Kumhos. Seem like a good choice for not a lot of dough.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • biggy_sbiggy_s Posts: 2
    Thanks. I went out today and bought the Yokohama AVS ES100's after reading a bunch of positive reviews on the net. Supposedly, the Kumho's work well but have a very short lifespan.

    B.
  • tymbertymber Posts: 2
    Hi all.... God I hope you can help me cuse I'm scratching my head. Ok... 1998 Acura Integra GS... JUST went over the 200,000 km mark. Oil changes every 5000 km. I am ANAL about this car. Shes my baby. Cost me $9000.00 CDN at 175,000 km. So... the other day.... at 4000 km since last oil change, I went for another one. NO OIL ON THE DIPSTICK!!! Obviously there was still some in my oil pan because my engine didn't sieze but yikes!!! So I got an engine seal coating prior to new oil and filter. The car is NOT burning oil, that much I do know.... my front seals are still good... as far as rear seals I don't know. I know I am due for a timing belt and water pump change... could that be the problem in any way? I don't know how the two could be related but then... ??? Oil pan screw appears tight.... but could it need replacement??? I await your comments. :cry:
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,687
    and how do you know you are not burning some? In my experience, Honda engines are pretty good at using some oil, especially by this mileage. Have your mechanic do a dye test - that will tell you if you have a slow leak, although you should also see oil spotting on the ground at your usual parking spot.

    The t-belt and water pump would not affect oil loss, but the cam seals behind there could be leaking.

    If the dye test turns up nothing, I would start checking the oil more frequently - say every 1500 km or better yet every couple times you fill it up. Track the oil consumption to see how much it is.

    there is one other thing of course. If you are not changing your own oil, or even if you are, it is possible that it was not filled properly after the last oil change. Did you check it right afterwards? I always do that, even when I do it myself, and certainly every time someone else does it for me - it has been low numerous times, and even too high at least twice I can remember. I am assuming you have checked the oil drain plug and it was not just leaking from there?

    OK, I will stop writing now! :-P

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • tymbertymber Posts: 2
    Ok dye test. There is a little oil on the ground where I park.... so a leak is what I was thinking. However as far as NOT burning I don't know FOR SURE but there is no smell, everything under the hood is clean and I've had NO oil loss until this started approx a month ago. My LAST oil change was completely normal and then I go for this one and all of a sudden... no oil! Also just to make sure you are aware.... its 200,000 kilometres or 125,000 miles. Ok cam seals.... good to note as well. Wow.... you were REALLY helpful :) Thanks!!
    :confuse:
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,687
    just FYI, my old Integra was going through a quart of oil every 1000 miles (1600 km?), but ran clean, no smoke and no oil smell, and it definitely didn't leak. It was at 250K miles on the odo. So you won't necessarily get any visual or nasal cues that your engine is using some oil.

    But in your case if you have spotting on the ground then you are right - you have some kind of leak. It would have to be leaking fairly fast to fall off the dipstick in 4000 km - you should do the dye test and see about sealing it up. Good luck!

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • driverlsdriverls Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Integra since new with 95000 miles. The vehicle has always had the recommended maintenace carried out, and there have never been any mechanical issues. A 'clunk' sound often occurs as the vehicle shifts between 2nd and 3rd on the automatic transmission. This sound have been happening for 2 - 3 years, becoming more frequent. The repair dealer has been unable to diagnose the problem. Have any other drivers experienced this issue, or know why the noise is occurring?
    :confuse:
  • $9,000 is about average deal for this year model with 45,000 mi.. an integra is a great car to own they are fun and reliable also they get good gas mileage. my 94 LS integra calls for mid grade gas and im pretty sure a 2000 GS would be the same. all acuras come with honda engines so they are basically hondas and they should be cheaper on parts and services compared to the honda accord and toyota camry because these models are more like luxury cars and are more expensive. if im not mistaken the infiniti is a v6 and it would have more power than the integra but it would also drink more gas. i hope i was helpful in your decision.
  • mara6mara6 Posts: 2
    Maybe someone could help me. I recently took my 97 Acura RL in to the dealership because the ABS light kept coming on. It has 140,00 miles on it. They had already "fixed" this problem once for $1100.00, and now I am told that not only is the ABS modulator faulty, so are "other" modulators and that the total cost would be about $6000.00!! Would it be unsafe to drive this car if "other" modulators are "faulty"? I am not having them repair anything at this time, as it is not cost effective. However, does anyone know if I needed too, I could have used modulators (from a salvage yard, etc,...whatever at this point!) put in and if this would be expensive??
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,687
    you've lost me, I know that much. What other modulators are needed? Specifics would be good here. And you might try posting in the RL thread - they may have seen this before.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • mara6mara6 Posts: 2
    I am so not a car person, can you tell? :) Hopefully this is more concise:
    Re: 97 Acura RL with 140,000 mile on it.....

    So far as I know (this is what I was told by the dealership), the ABS Modulator is faulty. We were told the ABS sensors would also need to be replaced. The ABS light comes on intermittently and this is why I initially brought the car in. The dealership "fixed" the problem once for 1,000$ and the light still continued to come on. The total cost they quoted me to replace the sensors and the modulator is more than the car is worth at this point. I was wondering if the car is safe to drive with this problem.
    Also, I am wondering, if this happened, is it typical to see other things stat to wear down (i.e. will my dashboard start lighting up like a christmas tree because other things are wearing out)?

    Thnaks for your help!
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