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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)

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  • Hi,

    Picked up a 94 Integra LS in decent condition. Until I parked it at home for two hours in the hot sun, then it turned over but wouldn't start. Being that I just moved and had no tools available, timing light, yadda yadda. Towed it to a nearby dealer and it started fine. Anyone seen this behavior before? Any parts in particular that could expand in the heat and prevent starting (with turnover).

    Thanks
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,693
    fuel pump relay, under the dash, in the hot sun they stop working as they age, then later on they work again. Cheap to fix.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • tlopeztlopez Posts: 2
    Well one wat to tell is by the rims if there stock and there hub caps its not a v-tec if there alumimun alloy it could be , also look at the engine code if it say b17a1 or b18 its a vtec good luck!!
  • tlopeztlopez Posts: 2
    I have a ? I have a 92 gs-r b17a1 and some one told me that its a good idea to let your v-tec warm up before you drive it is this true?
  • gsracer05gsracer05 Posts: 2
    Watup guys? yea so thanks nippononly it is a GS-R not a swap......well anyways im thinking about getting started on some upgrades on this thing i have already installed a Panasonic 45*4 NO SKIP deck with amp preouts.....i got 2 p1 10 inch fosgate subs in a sealed box with a p301M fosgate amp sounds great!!!!! but no more weight ...i have also re-tinted the windows to a 5 percent black ......i have another 500 bucks that i want to put into the engine im thinking a really good and effective cold air intake for a 95 GS-R...any recommendations? any other upgrades around 300 bucks after the 200 near round cold air intake system???thanks guys any help is appreciated
  • Okay, i just bought this used 1991 Acura Integra. It came with a Acura 6 cd disk changer installed in the trunk. i was told the previous owner couldnt get it to work. the face in the dash just always says Err 1. The actual disc changer in the trunk doesn't do anything. i can see a cd in there, but it won't eject or anything. some have told me to reset my system by diconnecting the battery, but i cant do that because the regular sterero has an antitheft device that shuts down the system if the power is disconnected and you need a code to get it to work again, and i dont have that code. what should i do? any suggestions would be helpful and greatly appreciated.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,693
    a dealer can get you the code, I believe, as long as you show the documents to prove you own the car.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • joe249joe249 Posts: 95
    The sub woofer on my Type S mounted on the doughnut had to go so I did what you did. (well not exactly)
    Nippon's right, I went to the dealer and he got me the code # and the serial number.Two days later, I found the orignal plastic card in amongst my credit cards.
    :sick: ">link title
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,693
    also writes the radio code in the little book, if you still have the books that came with the car.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • thanks for the help, but i'm actually looking for some advice on what to do about the 6 disc cdchanger.
  • y2k_lsy2k_ls Posts: 2
    they are helping with the disc changer. they said to disconnect the battery for a while to try resetting the cd changer, but then you will need the code they are talking about to restart your radio/player !
  • amm2amm2 Posts: 12
    I had this problem with a 92 integra rs. The dealer replaced the starter. The problem only occurred in the heat. I found out by browsing Honda forums at the time that this is a Honda starter fuse problem. I also had a Honda service manager advise me the same thing. At one point during a hot afternoon I had an Acura manager advise me to punch to the left side of the steering wheel where the
    starter fuse would be...bingo it started. $60.00. This may or may not be related to your problem.
  • sandy10sandy10 Posts: 1
    Amazingly, I just read on the internet the 1999 Acura Integra is the No. 1 car stolen this year. But not only that, the 98 Integra is 3rd, the 96 is in 6 place, the 95 is in 7th place, the 97 is in 9th place, the 2001 is in 11th place, the 94 is in 14th place and the 2000 Acura Integra is in 16th place. Meaning the Acura Integra is the most popular car for thieves to steal taking a whopping 8 places out of a total of 25. The other type cars being various makes and models, only 2 other makes listed twice within the 25.

    They said the 99 was so popular because the street racers wanted the fast engines in these cars, and they could be converted over into other Hondas very easily.

    I would recommend putting a GPS of America tracking system on it to protect yourself from theft. They are not that expensive to buy, plus only costing 17 bucks a month for constant tracking as well. Much less than most others. They will also shut the car down once they turn the key off where it will not start again too. Plus reveal the exact location the car is at, at all times as well. That is what I am going to put on my car for sure.

    Anyway, just thought I would share what I read today concerning the Acura Integras.

    Sandy
  • sandman46sandman46 Posts: 1,798
    I read the same thing also. Have always loved the Integra's since they came out!

    The Sandman (aka Sandy) :)
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    The Integra has been the #1 stolen car since the late '90's.

    Most of the stolen Integras are GSR's (VTEC) and the limited production Type-R. What makes Integras the highest ranking stolen car is the percentage of the cars being stolen. Not a lot of Integras were sold after '98. From '94 to '97 an average of 40-50,000 Integras per year were sold. From '98 to '01 sales dropped to the 30,000's. This number is small, say compared to the Civic or Accord that sell at the rate of almost 400,000/yr. This is why the Integra continues to be the No1 stolen car. In '00 or '01 I read that almost 1 out of 10 Integras had been stolen.

    If you own an '94+ Integra RS (which was discontinued early '98), LS or GS, or basically the 140hp Integra, you car is much less likely to be stolen than the 170hp GSR. Nearly 2 out of 10 Integras sold were GSR's. I believe the reason thieves prefer prefer '99 models, is because the '00 and '01 models came with the immobilizer.
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    Just to kind of build on what everyone's said, the things you wanna be aware of is what you have specifically in your integra that theives want. Most theives want the GSR's because of three essential items: Leather seats ($300-400 on ebay), GSR rims: Blades / 5spokes ($300-400 on ebay) and sometimes they wanna run a "hot" (stolen) motor in their hatch back or civic. The immobilizer Harry speaks of is the best defense they could come up with for the 2001 GSR. However here in the bay area we've even had a couple of RSX's stolen too!! You'd think wit :surprise: h all that anti-theft, window frame, new wiring locations!!!
  • Hello everyone im having a problem with my integra.
    Its a 93 gs hatch 5 speed. Its been wrecked from the front but thats not the problem. The problem started when my brother and i changed the valve cover gasket, water pump and timing belt and adjusted the valves. The car works fine at high speed but it sometimes has problems starting and it seems to be gasping for air when it idols. It just seems like it wants to turn off but it doesnt. we got a code from the car that said it was something with ignition. My brother was thinking that it might be the distributor. The valves were really loose before we adjusted them and the timing belt is on right. The car had been running fine before we did these changes. Could we just of overtighten the valves, or could it be something else. I really enjoy driving the car so i hate to see it parked in the driveway.
    Please if anyone has an idea i would appreciate your help.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    You 're on the right track. The problem is either with the installation of the timing belt or the valve clearance adjustment, ie: whatever you messed with last.

    I hope you just didn't "tighten" the valves but measured the gap properly with a thickness gauge that meassures to 1/1000th of an inch. I know people that have gone to the narrowest setting allowed (see the sticker under your hood) by Honda, (or lower if they didn't measure the gap properly) and had some rough idleing or it seemed like it didn't have good spark..

    The timing belt installation in '90-93 Integras can be tricky. I 've know mechanics and repair shops that have installed them incorrectly. It's been a while so I don't remember exactly where people make the same mistake installing the timing belt. There is a trick to it when installing a new one but that data has been pushed out of my brain to make room for new ones.. It wouldn't hurt replacing the distributor cap & rotor, plugs and wires if these parts are several years old. Basically doing a tune up, but most likely the problem will continue. It's something you guys did when performing the other 2 maintenance items.
  • Yeah At first we did just tighten them but realized that that wasnt the right thing to do. So we went and bought the vehicle maintenance manual and got the gapping from there. The strange thing though is that the dealer told us a different gapping than the manual. We went with what the manual told us. So i guess the thing to do is retrace our step and try to readjust the timing belt and check the gapping on the valves.
    Thanks for your help. If you happen to remember the trick to the timing belt,please let me know.
  • My 92 Integra runs great all the time but will not start unless I let it sit for 20 minutes before attempting to start it after turning engine off. Can this be the fuel pump relay as well? Any other ideas if that is not the fix it?
  • Looking at a 94 hatchback with 158000 miles. It looks in great shape. What kind of mileage are folks getting from these engines?
  • map5map5 Posts: 5
    My 90 Integra had the same problem and the mechanics couldn't solve it for a couple of years. The car would start up and run fine in hot weather until I stopped and turned off the engine. If I tried to start the car again within a few minutes, it wouldn't start. I'd have to wait 10 minutes or more before I could get the car started again. They cleaned the torque plate to no avail. Finely, last year, the guys at Zimbrick Acura suggested replacing the main relay. As the problem has not reemerged this summer, I'm assuming that did the trick.
  • map5map5 Posts: 5
    I'm looking for any information or advice. I have a 1990 Acura Integra 2DR Hatch, which I purchased new and have taken good care of. It has about 118k miles. This winter I started having intermittent problems, which have gotten noticeably worse this summer. For the first 10 minutes or so of driving the car, the automatic transmission will not shift from 2nd to 3rd. The car revs at 3000 RPM at 30 mph and 4000 RPM at 40 mph. After a while, the car will jolt a little as it finally shifts into 3rd and the RPMS will drop down to normal levels. At first this problem occurred only when I started the car for the first time of the day, but now (after the dealer has had at it) it happens every time I start the car.

    The dealer replaced a leaky water pump, checked the parts around the transmission, and flushed out the entire transmission. About $600 later, the transmission problem remains and the dealer suggests that I replace the transmission at a cost of $2550.

    I recently heard that Acura's and Honda's have troublesome transmissions. Should I consider my car a goner and donate it or try to salvage my car? Any suggestions or advice would be much appreciated. Thank you.
  • integinteg Posts: 2
    I am looking at a 2000 Integra LS w/ GS upgrades, it has about 67000 miles, custom blue paint, rims and tires, adjustable suspension, cold air, and an average sound system w/ amp and sub. They are asking $13500 but i think thats too much considering edmunds price of around $8500 but thats stock price. I thought about $11500 would be a good price. The air conditioning is broke because of the idiot who installed the cold air, and there is a pretty nice crack in the bumper that needs repair. What price does everyone else think is good?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,693
    you've got a cracked bumper cover and no A/C? I would say $8500 is the most I'd pay, unless you just LOVE the paint job and rims. In that case, maybe go as high as $10K.

    I mean, you could buy a 2000 LS owned by some little ol grandma, pick it up for $9-10K with those miles, and put on rims, suspension, and a CAI of your choosing for almost the same money. AND it would have working A/C!

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • I can't get the stupid light on my dash to go out. I have mashed away on the little button under the dash but the light wont go out. Any ideads?
  • slajjsslajjs Posts: 2
    My 90 Integra does the same thing. Started doing it last winter and has gotten worse over the last few months. Sometimes it will go the first 2 or so miles before it will shift properly. Once it shifts the first time it will work fine until the car cools down again (has to sit a couple of hours). I bought a manual for the tranny and checked out the shift solenoids, which seemed ok. The car is in good shape and I hate to dump it but I can't seem to find anyone who knows about these trannys. It's definitely not worth putting $2500+ into it.

    Good luck, let me know what you find out and I'll do the same.
  • After doing much research on "reliable" used cars, I bought my 1992 Integra gs (automatic) with 120,000 miles on it, and after one month of driving it it started having problems. On the highway mostly, the rpm's would drastically start to jump anywhere from 2,000 to 6,000 within seconds on a random basis. Sometimes while driving, the car would just shut off and then turn back on seconds later. I know very little about cars, but it felt to me like the gas was somehow not getting to the engine. Other times when it would shut off, I had to pull over and wait about 15 minutes until it decided to start back up again. This happened more frequently the more I drove it until eventually it wouldn't start up at all.

    I had to let the car sit for 6 months until I could afford to take it to get fixed. When I eventually did they replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor button, and cleaned the fuel system as well as an oil change which came to $389 and was supposed to fix the problem. Well I just got it back from the shop yesterday, and when I took it on the highway the rpm's still did a little jumping and the check oil light came on. This is how it all started in the first place until it eventually got worse and worse to where I couldn't drive it. Now I wish I never bought it in the first place.

    Can anybody tell me why this might be happening?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,693
    I don't understand what you are saying - please clarify.

    First of all, what do you mean it jumps from 2K to 6K rpm? The tach needle jumps, or you actually hear the engine rev way up? And did the car slow down when this happened?

    And sometimes the car just stalls when you are driving along? If so, replacing the maintenance parts you just had replaced will not fix the problem. The car actually requires a repair. Did this shop actually drive the car? I would take it back to them, and take a mechanic out with you onto the highway, where you can demonstrate the car's problems.

    It sounds like the car has both electrical problems and transmission problems, but it is hard to be sure because your description of the problems leaves me wondering exactly what is really happening.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • Yes, the tach neadle would jump from 2K to 6K and the engine would rev up as well. It would do this rapidly whithin a matter of a few seconds. When it did this the engine felt like it was "gasping" for air. It's kinda hard to explain but it felt as if the gas was not reaching the engine or something and it would start "gasping" and the rpm's would rapidly start bouncing around and the engine would rev up as well. The car would also slow when this happened, kinda like it was studdering. I know verry little about cars so i really have no idea what it could be.

    Any help would be much appreciated.
This discussion has been closed.