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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)

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  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,693

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • I have a 98 GSR with 122,000 miles on it. Has anyone experienced the following problems:

    1) My fuel door release latch has lost some tension. The door still opens when I use the lever, but I had to adjust the metal catch on the inside of the door. Has anyone had to replace this assembly?

    2) Randomly, my car has difficulty starting. When I turn the key, it will click, then start, or won't start. No cranking, and no gasping, just a click and nothing. When I try starting it again, it starts up.

    Other than that, and the oil leaks, its a great car that I would like to keep for as long as I can.

    Thanks for any help!
  • I experience the same thing with my 98, but haven't gotten it checked out yet. Do you get a clicking noise when you try the first unsuccessful start?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,693
    your problem sounds like one with the starter too.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • Had a 2000 Integra. It was approaching 90K miles looking at 90K service, timing belt, water pump . . . $2,000+. No problem with the car except little noise with the steering belt (dealer would not say which belt was loose unless I cough up $100+ for dianostic fee, which was a big turn off as I was loyal to them for every single maintenance.)

    Traded in to get wife a new wheel. I'm driving her old car 2002 Maxima.

    Maxima is much more comfortable and plenty of power. But I miss the Integra especially in handling. Looking back, it was perfect balance not too tight (like the Audi A4 or BMW 325) just right.

    Plus I like the feel of the control of the heat and air conditioning based on what I feel versus the digital temperature read out.

    So for those who are thinking about trading it in, if you have a good personal mechanic in your back pocket, keep the car. It's really a fun car.
  • I'd like to know if anyone has upgraded their exhaust system. I'm interested in whether or not you have a full catback exhaust and if there are issues with smog inspection. Also, recommendations for not so loud exhausts would be good. I appreciate any information anyone can give me. Thanks!
  • hi all !! ;)
    im having a problem with my acura integra, when park the car and put it into park , the P light wont light up on the dash board saying that it is in park, so because of that i cant take out the key from the ignition!!!??? so weird. so i have to wait about 1 minute after i put it in park , then the P light goes on and i could take out the key. i brought it to 3 mechanics and no one has figured out the problem . my integra is a 1993 hatchback 2 door.
    i hope someone here can help me out :0
    thankyou
    ricky
  • Try replacing the main relay, they are known for causing weird problems due to temperature variations, and they directly control starter operation. (They are known for failures with solder/circuit board etching connections.) If that does not do the trick, try the starter solenoid. Good Luck!
  • I'm getting very little heat and only after driving over 50 mph for a few miles. Radiator is full, don't have a/c, bought car at 90,000 now at 125,000. Is thermostat the most likely problem?
  • Hello I have the exact same problem with my 92 acura integra 4 door. its like I have to wait for it to warm up before it will acknowledge that it is in park. If I jiggle the shift handle while the whole thing is coming to an end, I can hear a relay buzzing. I believe it is the neutral safety switch making the noise but i am not sure if the neutral safety switch is the actual problem. I am researching this and I will get back to you if I find anymore out. will you get back to me if you find anything?

    sincerely, Tom Z
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,693
    What does the dash temperature gauge say? If the gauge rises to the midpoint and appears normal, you may have a clogged heater core instead. If the gauge sits on the bottom, then yes, you need a thermostat.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    Namester:
    Apexi makes 2 exhausts: the N1 and WS. The WS is more quiet and designed for the street. It will still be louder than your stock exhaust. They all are. I hear people like the WS because it's not too noisy. I heard one on a '95 Integra (GSR) last summer while at an auto-x event and it didn't sound bad at all. It's a 2.25" exhaust which is what you want. There 's usually no problems with smog inspection with 2.25" aftermarket exhausts.

    Don't go with 2.5" piping (not that many around anyway). They will be loud (I have one) and cost more. That's the price some of us pay for a little more power.
    Another thing to watch out for is when you replace the Catalytic Converter (aka CAT) with 3d party free-flow CATs or a straight/test pipe, then you will run into problems with passing inspection.
    You 're pretty safe with a 2.25" exhaust though. I don't know of anyone failing inspection because of an exhaust. It's just a piece of piping with a muffler. Mufflers don't filter pollutants. They only "muffle" the noise.

    You also have to be careful with aftermarket headers. If you decide to get a header (I highly recommend it - I got almost 6hp more at the wheels with my old DC Sports 4-2-1 ceramic header), make sure it's CARB approved which means the manufacturer has made sure there won't be any problems with emissions. They are meant to replace your stock header without comprimising the emissions of your vehicle. I have a non-CARB race header (it's says for racing purposes only on it) but my county doesn't have emissions/smog inspection, only safety inspection. I think I may be in trouble in '06 though, because I hear new laws will not allow straight pipes in place of a CAT. Last year they made Cold Air Intakes illegal which is the most stupid thing I have ever heard. I had to put on a short RAM (warm) air intake that I borrowed from someone so I can pass inspection. What are they going to think of next? Aftermarket performance brake pads will be illegal? This is in NY btw. It's a NY State law, no CAI's. Makes me so mad. I 'll have to take it off again in a month and probably my resonated test pipe too.
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    Don't beat yourself up too bad. I just took of my illegal headers and intake and replaced them with my stock stuff just to pass smog. It still failed. Well it passed the visual but here in Cali we've gotten even stricter. Now you have to pass the "knock" part which is the only part I failed on. SO in the meantime before I pass smog I'm driving around w/ this 15yr old motor, I lost at least 8 hp, gained a tiny bit of torque from the OEM exhaust manifold and I'm leaking oil everywhere I go. Why does motor building have to take so long!?!?!? :mad:
  • Please ignore this message, this is a test message.

    Sorry :)
  • My 1997 GSR sedan got stolen from the park and ride back in Mid December. Poor thing probably got chopped up for parts. Dammitall!
  • mmyk72mmyk72 Posts: 67
    I've a 94 Integra LS automatic. After not using my car for 2 wks during the winter, it wouldn't start. When the AAA technican came, he said the alternator or starter was frozen and took a stick to bang on something inside the hood (passenger side) as I turned the key. The car finally started fine. But later when I looked into the hood (next to the battery), I found a tubing connection was broken off the top of a plastic cylinder (I later found out this cylinder is a fuel vapor canister). The canister has little sprouts where tubings connect to and one of the sprouts is broken off. Since the canister is made in 1 piece, I'd have to replace the whole thing for around $200.

    I don't know much about cars, can someone tell me what the canister actually do and how bad is it to let me car run with the tubing disconnected from it. The car seems to run normally now. However, there is a new rattle noise that occurs when I step on the gas at ~ 30 mph. Wonder if this new noise is related to the disconnected fuel cannister.
  • mmyk72mmyk72 Posts: 67
    The same happened to me (94 Integra). When I turn the key, I hear just 1 click then no sound. But this only happened occasionally. It turned out to be a slightly loose battery cable connection. After that's fixed, it started fine everytime.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,693
    That charcoal cannister recovers fuel vapors from the gas tank as your car sits in the parking lot. This is to comply with smog requirements. I don't know how strict your state's smog laws are, but here in California that would fail the visual check at the first inspection and you would be forced to repair it to renew the car's registration.

    In the meantime, however, it is not causing damage to anything else to leave it broken like that.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • mmyk72mmyk72 Posts: 67
    Nippononly: Thanks for the explanation. What a relief to know that my car runs fine without the connection.

    Then the new rattle noise is probably a different issue altogther ... Although it may still be caused by the AAA tech banging inside my hood with his stick.

    Here is more details about the rattle:
    Only happens after car is warmed up (after 10 min driving) when I step on the gas at <25 mph. No rattle if I'm driving faster (say 40 mph +) Sound seems to be from the front.

    Thanks in advance for anyone helping me diagnose the problem.
  • mmyk72mmyk72 Posts: 67
    I've temporaily fixed the connection by inserting a tiny hard tubing to the holes in the sprout and the flexible tube. It's a quick fix and I'm sure it can only hold a few days/weeks.

    I'm wondering if this is good enough for the annual inspection (I live in MA but I guess the inspection criteria is similar to CA).
  • My 90 Integra does the same thing, Water pours in when I start the car on the passenger side after a good rain .I do not have AC. And where the heck is the drain tube located. The smell of mold is getting me down.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,693
    No, that temp fix wouldn't cut it for the smog check around here. But perhaps it is different in MA?

    Can't tell right offhand what that other noise might be.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • mmyk72mmyk72 Posts: 67
    Same problem started this past summer with my 94 Integra LS. Water appears under the glovebox where the passenger's feet would be. It isn't bad yet (A few drips after rain).

    I did a search and found a link on how to fix it before (I can't find the link now, but I must have done a search in google.)

    From what I remember reading, it's an old washer that needs to be replaced under the windshield. It involves removing the wipers and taking out the cover under the windshield. The job sounds a bit too complicated for me who knows nada about mechanics. So unless it gets real bad, I plan on just to leave it. At least I know it isn't a major problem.

    If anyone has tried to fix it, please let us know how it worked out and maybe include some good basic instructions for us novices.
  • mmyk72mmyk72 Posts: 67
    Thanks Nipponly for your help on this!
  • mmyk72mmyk72 Posts: 67
    This is the link for instructions on how to fix leak:

    http://www.g2ic.com/tegtips/interior/15.html
  • Thanks much mmyk72 just what I needed.
  • I have a 88 LS acura integra 170k :sick: , when I put on the high beams the headlights closed. So I pushed the button on the dash. (left hand side by steering column w// the headlight picture on it) opened the headlights and the high beams worked. Car is new to me and I dont have a manual so i was guessing.
    Well now i have a acura that has stuck headlights.
    Anyone got any ideas on how to fix?
    Plus water leaks from under the dash on the passenger side. I saw another post along these lines. But then lost it.
    :)
  • mmyk72mmyk72 Posts: 67
    If you decide to do the fix, please write back and let us know how it turned out. If it's easy, then I'll do it too. Good Luck.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,693
    That button gets stuck really easily, especially once the car is this old. You have to get behind that button so that it will release the lights to go back down. That same thing happened to me with my '88.

    It wouldn't be the worst thing in the world to leave them in the up position, of course. But that's what to do if you want the streamlined look of the front with the headlights down.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    Hey guys this is for the 90-93 2D Leaking problem. I am 99.9% positive that I have effectively fixed the leaking problem. I started with the lead of the taillight gaskets needing to be replaced. I stopped when I found that all the local dealers wanted $33 per gasket!! So I took my old Taillights off and ripped the nasty 15yr old gaskets off and scrapped all the gasket residue off. I than lined it with "Sticky Caulk" which is omse black weatherproofing, play-doughish material. I than went the extra mile and lined the very top of the taillight (where the black plastic part almost meets the metal- I closed the gap). I still have moisture in the actual taillight but my trunk has stayed nice and try during the duration of our near emergency state flooding over here in the Bay Area. Just passing on the info.

    So in short: if you like to waste money or your dealer actually sells the gaskets at areasonable price (below $20) than start there. I would still recommend getting the "sticky caulk" (stop giggling! :P ) just to close the gap on the top though. I'm interested in hearing your experiences if you have similar success or not!
This discussion has been closed.