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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)

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Comments

  • I didnt replace all that stuff to cure that problem, the no starting problem is just the latest one. So replacing the pump should solve the no starting thing?... would it also fix the fact that if i turn off my car when i get gas and it floods itself and i cant get it started again for like half an hour? And would it fix the cold start that it has or is that related to a thermometer sensor thing?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,695
    just the relay. The car is flooding itself when you turn it off? That would be a faulty injector most likely, which would be very surprising in this car. Could it be something else? How do you know it is flooded? Could it be part of the same problem, no gas to the plugs because of a bad fuel pump relay?

    And what is the cold start problem? I am afraid I missed that one.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • Im not positive that its flooded but thats what im assuming because it runs fine but then if i turn off my car and get gas then try and start it when im done it wont start ...just keeps cranking but wont catch ... and the only thing i can do is sit and wait ...which usually takes about 10-15min ..enough time for everything to settle i guess. And the cold start problem , we've had it since we replaced the engine, we thought it was the temperature sensor thing but that seemed to be ok. It just pretty much takes awhile to actually start like if its really cold out , it doesnt seem to have such a problem when its warm outside or hot. We're not sure what the problem is but it all seems to be related to something in the whole fuel system (broad range i know)
    .. btw, if it helps any... we know it has nothing to do with the battery,alternator or the throttle body cuz those have all been replaced.
  • I'm looking hard at an integra (possibly even a GS-R if i can get one without outrageous insurance costs). I have a couple questions:

    -Does getting a hatchback instead of a coupe help with insurance costs?
    -What is a good year to get a cheap, fast Integra (GS-R or otherwise) that will last a little while?

    Thanks
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,695
    I think you should pause and diagnose your symptoms - you have a cold start problem that isn't that different from your hot start problem. You have an engine that will crank but not start (or have a hard time starting) under several conditions - you need to find out what it's NOT getting, spark, fuel, or air. Those are the three ingredients. It will take a second person to crank it while you check under the hood to see which of the ingredients you don't have whenever problems are occurring. Bad electricals often contribute to poor cold starting.

    thenut8522: there is no Integra ever made that helps with insurance costs! These are some of the most expensive cars to insure I have ever experienced.

    Getting a GS-R (the model with the VTEC) will always cost a premium over the "regular" Integras. There aren't many cheap GS-Rs. Now if you can do without the VTEC, the LS's (or GS's if you really want the leather) can be had fairly cheaply now in the oldest of the last-gen Integras - MY '94-96.

    Integras are all decently fast, and have an IMMENSE aftermarket to make them faster for not too much money if that is your thing.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • I have a 92 Integra (orig owner) and had a similar intermittent starting problem. It turned out to be a cold solder joint on the fuel relay - just had to apply more solder - has been fine for two years.

    Found the fix on http://www.g2ic.com/

    (BTW, I still haven't found a good replacement for this car so I'm driving it till it drops)

    Graham
  • nickyj311nickyj311 Posts: 2
    we have no headlights blinkers or radio insides clock flashes on and off have no running lights but brake lights and backup lights work could somerone help
  • earinaminearinamin Posts: 2
    son just reasonly came thru town and car stopped runing thinks it is timing belt upon exam found oil on top of spark plug chamber and a ruined timing belt am having problem getting bolt out pulley seems to be welded in. help even uses air wrench and i won't free up. / does the oil on top mean valve cover warped?? how can get the bolt out of lower pulley
  • earinaminearinamin Posts: 2
    finally got the bolt off still have the ? about the oil in spark plug chamber??
  • electrical problems?...have you checked all your fuses?..i had a similar problem and it turned out being as simple as a couple fuses needing replacment...or it could me your alternator...or something isnt grounded.
  • nylajnylaj Posts: 24
    OMG, my 91 is slowly dying!! :sick: Combustion leak in the 3rd cylinder :( I have 223,300 miles and I hoped to be good for quite a few more. My mechanic is going to try "Blue Devil" metallic treatment to see if that will eliminate the leaking. Has anyone had success with this treatment? If that doesn't work, I'm off for a new engine or a new car (NOT!). For now my radiator empties within about a week or so depending upon how far I go. I travel an average of about 450 mi per week. Is there hope for my little car?! :cry:
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,695
    I am so sorry to hear the news! :-(

    Honestly speaking, unless your car is just in ABSOLUTELY TIP-TOP shape, your money would probably be better spent on a newer car than on a head gasket and possibly head too. You can find a good '94 or '95 (the newer style) with a lot less miles for around $5000.

    Some things in the automotive universe are just signs. A head gasket failure on an older car is one - the car is telling you it's getting tired. :sick:

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • bdog604bdog604 Posts: 4
    Hey i need help, i just boughbt an 1990 acura integra gs and i want to make it look cool i need some tips on what to get. i want to get rims air intake and dc sport headers. i also would like tips on what to buy for the engine to make it fly.
  • pixiespixies Posts: 1
    Hi, okay this is a lame question but the trunk on my 01' Integra isn't staying up. I'm pretty sure it's supposed to, i got it second hand and wonder if they did something to break it. But yeah, i transport stuff in my trunk and its kind of annoying to hold it all the time, help?
  • bdog604bdog604 Posts: 4
    Would it be hard to convert my 1990 acura integra GS to a manual transmission? and if its not hard around how much cash am i lookin at to do th is. if anyone could help reply that would be great.

    :confuse:

    Thanks
  • If i drop a b18b1 motor into my 1990 integra witch originally has a b18a1, do i have to convert into obd1? :confuse:
  • xill_alxxill_alx Posts: 3
    For the lower pully...try using an impact wrench.
  • cosadorcosador Posts: 8
    Can anyone help me? My 92 integra has no spark. Last time it was running, it ran normal for about one minute and just stopped. I checked for spark and there was none. Replaced the igniter, no luck! Coil checked out okay. Battery voltage to coil and igniter with ignition switch on checked out okay. Anyone with any ideas? Cap and rotor have 5,000 mile on them and checked out ok. The car has 114,000 miles on it (original owner). Could it be the computer? If so is there a way to check it? Thanks!
  • xill_alxxill_alx Posts: 3
    Turn the key to the accessory position, wait about 5 seconds for the accessory lights to go out. If your check engine light stays on then there an issue with the ECU, if the check engine light goes out just like the others then it is something else. Sounds like you may have a bad (main relay) under the dash, over time the soldering joints on the curcuit board crack and go bad on them. These are between $45-$75 at most dealerships; although it is possible to repair your own by re-soldering the joints if you are familiar with soldering. The cracks in the solder joints my not be visible by eye, but should be with the use of a magnifying glass.
  • cosadorcosador Posts: 8
    Thanks for the quick response. The ECU light went out after a few seconds. Do you have any idea where the main relay is on a 92 integra RS? Thanks again!
  • orion15orion15 Posts: 3
    Two weeks ago a rattle started in my engine. When I am driving at 1700-1900 rpms and 2900-3200 rpms there is a loud rattling coming from the engine. It sounds like a rock boucing around. This began suddenly without any previous signs. There is no loss of power or performance only a loud rattling noise. There are no strange emissions and the gas mileage has reamained the same. Does anyone have any suggestions? This began right after the gasoline change over. Does anyone think that this could have any effect? I am confused because I am not an agressive driver. Thanks for any response.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,695
    probably a loose or broken exhaust heat shield. Look up near the exhaust manifold first. You can usually just pry it away some, then drive it to see what happens. Hopefully, you will find this new noise is gone.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • Hey y'all... Recently bought a '92 LS AT w/150K. It needed CV's (which it sounds like some folks are paying *way* too much for-- my mech did both for $260) and a muffler assembly (which I did myself). Next in line is a timing belt and water pump, just because there are no maint records (FWIW my mech quoted me $240 for the belt, not counting the pump). But, it's obviously been *very* well maintained. Aside from the axles and muffler (and baked clearcoat-- hope to be able to paint it before too long) I've tried real hard to find *anything* else wrong with this thing (knock on wood). So far, not even a burnt bulb. Doesn't use a drop of oil (and the oil's still clear after almost a month and 1500 miles; it was changed the day after I got the car). AT shifts smooth as butter. AC blows cold as ice. Rolls straight, brakes smooth. The moonroof let in a few drops of H20 in the car wash, but reaming out the drains seemed to fix that. No taillight/trunk leaks or whatever. The interior looks like it might be a year or two old, and even the freakin' cruise control works.

    Here's the deal. My beloved '89 RS AT, bought new at the time, got totaled in 1996. I've always hoped to get another early Integra, and finding this one for $900 last month has been the highlight of my year so far. I'm determined to take this little car to 300K. So, after the t-belt and water pump, any thoughts on what I should have done next as preventative maintenance, since prior maint records aren't available? I'd much rather be proactive on keeping the car, motor, and trans fit, than have something sneak up. Trans fluid/filter? (Fluid's bright red, no burnt smell). Other ideas?

    Counting the axles and muffler I've got about $1300 total in this car so far. I have no problem spending $1K or so a year over the next few to keep it on the road; I'd just rather not get hit with a motor or tranny all at once. It gets twice the mileage of the SUV I was driving exclusively before (and which is now parked except when work demands the cargo space) so it'll easily pay for the routine stuff. I'm also considering going to full synthetic oil; the extra cost isn't an issue and from everything I read, synth is just plain purer than *any* refined oil.

    Any and all thoughts welcome and appreciated. Tanks in advance.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,695
    Yes, if there are no records, do the auto trans, and do the t-belt and water pump, making sure to do the camshaft seals at the same time. Those silly Honda water pumps can create such havoc when they go. After that, enjoy! :-)

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • Thanks! :shades:
  • rustyartrustyart Posts: 3
    :shades: Trying to re-vive my grandmom's car. 1989 Acura 3-door hatchback. The hatch is extremely heavy and will barely lift. I think the hydraulics are broken? Does someone know what is involved in getting the hatch to work - do I have to replace a liquid hydraulic or something or a part? Thank you!! RustyArt
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,695
    Yeah, you can replace the struts that hold up the hatch - they are the tubular things at the left and right. They will be less than $100 for the pair at the auto parts store, double that if you go to the Acura dealer. They just bolt on to the metal at top and bottom - you can replace them yourself, or a mechanic will do it for cheap.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • rustyartrustyart Posts: 3
    OK. Thanks a lot. I see them on e-bay and will buy. Thanks again. Rusty
  • rustyartrustyart Posts: 3
    The inside of my 1989 Integra LS is kind of a faded blue, but the exterior is white. Does anyone know if this was an original color combination? Or where I can find a listing of original colors? Thanks! :shades:
  • xill_alxxill_alx Posts: 3
    Main relay is located under the dash. Do a search on e-bay (for a 91 integra main relay). This way you will have a general idea what it looks like. Its a small box about 2" x 2" and it has a coner over it. should be somplace near the steering cloumn.
This discussion has been closed.