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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)

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Comments

  • sspsssps Posts: 2
    My 1993 Integra is making 2 separate sounds related to the whhels. Sound #1: when first driven in the morning, front wheels make a "jog-jog-jog" or "wob-wob-wob" sound that sounds like a sewing machine. The sound frequency is related to the car speed when it is rolling without brakes - slower speed= slower frequency, faster speed=faster frequncy. Sound (mostly) goes away once the brakes are applied, and after the car is driven for about 20 minutes it goes away until the next day.
    Sound#2: After the car has been driven for an hour or so, there is a "click-pop" noise from the rear wheels when braking at slow speeds, approx. 15 mph, for example, stop+go traffic. Does not happen at higher speeds and does not affect braking ability.
    Any ideas, anyone?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    could sound #1 just be the brakes scrubbing the overnight rust off the rotors? Or wait, you said WITHOUT pressing the brakes? In that case, could you have a sticky caliper that is rubbing against the rotors at first and then straightens itself out after warming up?

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • sspsssps Posts: 2
    thanks - we had the rotors greased a couple of years ago and that temporarily solved the "pop-click" problem (sound #2). So maybe the sounds are related.
    The dealer mechanic said the rotors are always in tension and so "couldn't make that sound", but we'll check it out...
  • jay6jay6 Posts: 1
    i have a 93 integra i am tryin to put 17 inch rs rims i just wannna know if it would work
  • superusersuperuser Posts: 3
    my gf has a 95 integra SE w/auto trans. She bought it used, and does not have the manual. The car currently has ~80k mi, and we are wondering when we should change the timing belt. What does the manual recommend?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    it became a 105K timing belt, I think. But I don't know if they really changed anything from the years of 1990-96, when it was a 90K belt. They just did it to meet new OBDII regulations for California, most likely. Since the car is already a decade old, if I were you and I planned to keep the car a while I would probably just do it now. They can replace the water pump and camshaft seals at the same time. Save trouble later, what with that belt being ten years old already.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • superusersuperuser Posts: 3
    ok, 90k seems reasonable. I remember in my 95 civic it said something similar. She now has 87k, sounds like we caught it in time. She is planning to sell the car in about a year (when graduates from law school), and she might put another 10k miles before that, so we are still debating on whether to do the whole thing.

    quick supplemental question: what should we expect to pay for the timing belt/ water pump / camshaft seals as far as labor? any ideas? She got quoted $600 for the timing belt alone, sounds like a little much
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    for just the timing belt? Are you sure that didn't include the water pump? Most places would include that as a standard part of the job. And $600 for t-belt and water pump still sounds a little high, but I would expect it to cost $450, maybe $500. Do the camshaft seals too: it is no additional labor and the seals themselves cost almost nothing. Later they will begin to seep and leak, and then it will be the same labor all over again to go in and replace them.

    Labor is about 2.5 hours, as I recall. Have them break down the costs item by item for you.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • japcar1japcar1 Posts: 1
    Have a 91 integra gs 180k just this week electric light and abs light came on and remain on. Had a new rebuilt alternator and belts put on in last 16 months . Manual indicates that abs comes on when there is an electric issue so that answers the abs question.

    Has the alternator failed and I am only going on whats left on the battery, or is there something else quite possibly that could be the issue?.

    Anyone have an inexpensive way to troupleshoot this problem as I currently am not working and a trip to the garage will end up up with me abandoning car.

    regards
    dp
    :cry:
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    yup, most likely you need an alternator - you can put an ammeter on it to see. The output spec should be in the back of the manual, or available on the web. It shouldn't fluctuate. Before you do that though, check the belt is still on and is tight. That is pretty easy. The tension in the belt should be such that it is not "ropy" - it should be taut.

    Kinda sucks that your alternator died after only 16 months - any chance the place that sold it to you would help out a little with replacing it?

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • vancleavevancleave Posts: 3
    First of all, this may be the coolest site I have ever found! I just purchased a 1991 Integra GS back in January. It has 75k miles on a new engine and I don't know how many miles on the car itself.

    I am having two problems as of now. The biggest one is that when I shift into third at higher RPM's it grinds a little going in. I usually just let the RPM's come back down to about 2500 before shifting and it goes in fine. I have heard that it might just be the synchro mesh and it would be cheap to repair, but others tell me that any tranny problem is going to be VERY expensive so I should just drive soft till the tranny dies and buy a new one.

    The other problem is that my passenger side seatbelt (it's automatic) doesn't come back up and lock when the door shuts. Consequently no one feels very safe riding with me :). Would this be something I could fix or if I need to take it in would it be cheap? I would be way grateful for any responses!! :confuse:
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    Ack! Those stupid motorized seat belts from the early 90s have proven very expensive to repair/replace in the cars of some friends of mine. I don't know about the Integra specifically though, because I have never had that problem. The problem will be that it needs a new motor, I am sure, and they were a few hundred dollars in a couple of Saturns my friends had.

    The third gear thing may well just be that you need a new clutch? 75K is probably also how old the existing clutch is, and in an Integra agressive driving is awfully tempting which tends to wear out the clutch...

    Is it easy to slip into first gear without a crunch when you are still rolling forward slightly, or is that really difficult? If difficult, it is likely the clutch. If smooth and easy, it may be the synchros, you are right. In that case the repair is VERY EXPENSIVE. I would skip it - just take it easy on the shift, rev-match if you can, and double clutching can also help sometimes.

    The reason that repair is expensive is that the transmission has to come out of the car and get opened up. I am sure you'd be looking at a bill north of $500 at any shop worth its salt. Manual transmission rebuilding is a rare art, so find a good place to do it. Double A, M-C-O...DON'T go there! :-P

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • vancleavevancleave Posts: 3
    yeah the funny thing about the seatbelt is that it works every once in a while. VERY odd. I think it may be something with the electrical system but I don't know how much that is to fix either

    The car got a new clutch from the guy I bought it from, so I didn't think it was the clutch. The first gear will go in fine while rolling forward so by what you're saying we're looking at the synchros, which really sucks. I guess just taking it easy on the tranny till she can't take it anymore is the only way to go. I have been rev-matching while I drive and it seems to help a bunch. Thanks for the heads up on the Double A, M-C-O!! I will definately trust you on that one. You are a HUGE help, thanks!! :)
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    hey the good news on the seat belt is that if it works occasionally, it is probably not the motor. Which means the repair if you choose to do it should be fairly cheap. Pick a time when it is acting up and check if the motor is getting electricity, follow it back from there. Those things must have a switch somewhere, which would be the next most likely candidate.

    As for third gear, you are right, it is very likely a broken synchro. There may be some situations where if you rev it enough you can bypass third gear entirely. Sorry to hear that. :-(

    I was looking at a '92 last year that was on a lot, not a private sale. They were like "yeah, this is a fantastic car, no problems at all" and when I went to drive it, second gear was almost totally unengagable - the synchro was shot. I went back and pointed it out, their response was "no, this is a fantastic car, no problems at all". I think they just wanted my money.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • vancleavevancleave Posts: 3
    I can understand that. Maybe you should have taken the dealers in the car and had him drive for you. Then when he shifts into second you can ask if the grinding and crunching is normal:)

    Another thing is my car is black, four door. I love the thing, just unfortunate that I will have to replace the tranny soon probably. The trim around the doors is mostly all black but there are a few pieces that are silver. I would like to make them all black but am not sure what I should use to paint them. Any suggestions?

    Also, the rubber seal on the door frame on the driver side is coming apart a little. Should I just glue it back and temporarily sove it or is there a better way? Thanks!!
  • carpetmancarpetman Posts: 1
    Shoulder belt problems on driver side. Not working at all. Assuming after reading vancleave that I have to replace motor? Anyone have instructions? Edmunds has been asked to NOT make available any maintenance or repair info from American Honda!
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    Edmunds has repair data on ANY cars.

    I don't have any personal experience with those awful motorized belts, but it can't be too hard to replace one. Just a lot of sweat! Check the switch first, just like any other motorized part in the car.

    vancleave - repairing those rubber gaskets around the door never works for long. Better to just replace them, and not very expensive for parts. They are a hassle to get right if you install them yourself, and cheap to have a shop do, so I have only ever done it once (and not on an Integra!).

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • Does anyone know the adjustments for 00 integra ls automatic.....I need the cleareances pleeeeeeassseee someone have them!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • carlyjcarlyj Posts: 1
    I need new tires for my 99 Integra. I've called several people, and the following tires are available to me:

    Cooper 2Xs Zeon
    Dunlop Sport
    Falcon ZE 512

    Is one of these better than the others? Advice please.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    are a good all around tire, but probably not the sportiest. The others I have no personal experience of, but lots of people run them, so they must be decent tires.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

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