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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)

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Comments

  • removationremovation Posts: 5
    Thanks again. T-belt was done between 85 and 90K. I'll have to ask about the water pump and seals. I'm guessing if whoever did is remotely good, they did these at the same time. I'll also probably bring it in to a dealer for CV joint checks and anything else of concern.

    I'm suprised at how little rust the thing has for 10 years old in New England. I'm also suprised at how much room there is under the hood! My '85 Z was *such* a joy to work on (sarcasm).
  • lash2lash2 Posts: 1
    i just bought a 94 ls motor, can someone send me specs on that?
  • integra96integra96 Posts: 1
    Did you ever find your code? I just had the same problem and cannot find my code.
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    How long do timing belts last on a B18A if they were installed correctly? When I bought my 90 GS the guy claimed to have done it at 90k but he had no paperwork to support that so I went ahead and did it "again" at 140k. Just curious when I should do it again.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    if you are not driving it real hard, you can go 90K on each belt. The "severe" schedule back then recommended 60K intervals. Personally, I always figure 90K is OK for the t-belts on all the 1.8L engines, except for the VTECs, for which 60K intervals are a much better idea (especially if you find yourself on the hot cam all too often!).

    If you go here:

    http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=981&location_id=524

    and click on "Timing Belt Replacement Guide", it gives you all the specs.

    Note that the 105K spec later on used exactly the same belt as the earlier "90K" belts. Also note that the 1.8 uses a t-belt-driven water pump, so you should DEFINITELY change the pump when you replace the belt. It is just so much smarter for the few extra bucks than doing the labor again when the pump starts to leak between t-belt changes.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • teg420teg420 Posts: 2
    I just bought a 92 acura integra today and the guy I bought it from told me it had vtec. Im not to knowledgable about cars but my friends are. The head was painted horribly so we took it off to paint it black today. Once off, my friend was suprised to not see where the vtec was. My question is, is there some way to to tell where the vtec is because we thought we could feel it kick in when I shifted at higher RPMs but its hard to tell since my exaust is so friggin loud. Help me because I fear I got ripped off.
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    Well first off I'm guessing that "teg420" is a young gentlemen. second I'm guessing that he is a stoner (420) third I'm guessing these two conditions led to him getting utterly ripped off on his first (hopefully not his second) car. That's OK, we live and learn. My first car was an American car - i think that pretty much says it all, right?

    Back to the problem w/ VTEC or no VTEC, we need to know more info... is it an RS, LS, GS, GS-R. If it's not the last one (which I highly doubt b/c they are rarely found or sold) than I think you got screwed. That is unless he did a motor swap or put a VTEC head on their (which as far as I've seen is always clearly visible) than it's as weak as my 1.8L GS engine. Given the fact that he painted the head (AND I think you mean valve cover) I'm guessing he's not the ultra racer he described himself as. It's not the end of the world though. If you're in California there are laws against pressure sales (I think it's within 3 days, but your defence can't be idiocy and lack of research. :lemon:

    But as far as I know the only VTEC for that year was the GS-R. So lay off the dope and start saving for a GSR motor like the rest of us. :D
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    is right - the only VTECs all the way back were the GS-Rs (and the type R's in the years they made those, but that is QUITE another story!), and they all had a little silver badge at the back of the car that said 'VTEC'. And yes, it is obvious to the eye once you remove the valve cover.

    Now if the seller was a racer, it is perfectly conceivable that he DID do a motor swap into a lesser trim, but again, it should be obvious when you remove the valve cover.

    And unless my memory is betraying me, all GS-Rs came with leather, alloys, and a moonroof even that far back, so if your car is missing one of those, it is not a GS-R.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • i have a 1995 integra 123k i believe it is LS im a noob i know but i was thinking of
    turboing this car after i overhaul the engine. i was told the LS was the best model for this, any opinions?
  • teg420teg420 Posts: 2
    My integra has a LS engine, and according to your information that means its does not have V-tec. It has been about 2 weeks since I bought the car. Do you think if I tell him I want my money back he will comply? I don't like the fact that I got ripped off when I thought I was getting a good deal. PS: the 420 is not a reference to the national marijuana day, its a reference to my birthday, April 20th.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    yup, you're down about 40 hp from where you thought you were.

    If it was a dealer, you have rights, and you could try going back. If it was a private seller, you have less rights - private sales are not well regulated. You may have to sue the seller to take it back on the basis of lying about it, and even then you may not win. In the case of a private purchase, I would say go talk to the seller and try to be reasonable, see if they will take it back. Hopefully, the car is still in exactly the same condition as when you bought it?

    Either way, if the promise of VTEC or a specific trim level was never documented in writing, you may be out of luck - it will be a tough road. Good luck to you!

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    I re-read what "Nippononly" wrote and he brings up a good point. Whenever you do a private sale always do it in writing. Assume that everything expressed verbally is a complete lie because they can totally flip in court. I started doing that after my 3rd car sale. It gives you piece of mind. :shades:
  • deryckfmderyckfm Posts: 29
    Friend of mine just picked up an 05 S2K. Got to drive it a bit, though kept it under 5k rpm and only went up to 3rd gear due to it being in the break-in period still. Noticed a difference in torque, handling and overall sportscar-like feel to it compared to my 00 GSR.

    I am having thoughts about replacing my GSR with a used S2K (2003 at least w/ around the same mileage I have on the GSR, w/c is 15k). Question is, is it worth it to have to come up with $8k for a downpayment and a $5k loan (assuming I find a S2K for under $23k and get at least $11.5k for the GSR). GSR is paid for, is less to insure, gets better gas mileage and most importantly, still look forward to having some seat time on it.

    Thanks in advance in helping me sort things out.
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    Judging by the fact that you're not sure if you should upgrade to an S2000 I think they're is still saving you! First thing you should ask yourself: Am I so utterly rich I don't where to throw my money or is someone else paying for my car habit. If you answered yes to either of these questions go for it! If not (the rest of us) don't get your self into more debt to have a fancier car that costs more to insure and gives a bigger headache. Dont forget that cars are money pits... you throw your money in and it dont come back! If I were you I would spend maybe 4-5 g's on your car, make it faster, finsih off the suspension, sound system etc. Than you can spend another couple hundred taking your friends out to dinner, Finally you can send me a check for $500 bucks and include a picture of your better looking GSR and I'll send you back an index card that says that your car looks tite. After all that you'll be saving more money with insurance, you'll have spent less than your idea of getting the S2000, your friends will like you more and most importantly: I will have respect for you. :shades:
  • deryckfmderyckfm Posts: 29
    Had it not been for the $5k drop in the Integra's value from just last summer, it would have been an easier decision. Having to cough up $8k for a downpayment again is the questionable part.

    Hope only1harry comes along and sheds more light.......
  • hey! i can honestly say i know how u feel...i just bought a 95 integra in awesome condition for $4000 as well...it also has a special edition sticker on it and the dealer wasnt even sure if it was or not...but even for a awesome condition integra its not bad at all...mine as well has leather seats and all that its also a hatchback tho...like urs i believe mine has been in an accident as well tho....when i got it home i was showing my friend the trunk area and there were pieces of glass where the hatchback had been previously shattered...mine also has 15'' phat 5 rims when i bought it...i would love to know if its a special edition myself......
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    wait I don't understand your clutch trick "94GSRzoom" are you saying if you try to put it into 5th @35mph and it doesn't go in, than the clutch is going out.. you said: " If the engine revs, but the car dosen't move, then the clutch is going out soon." Please be more specific, and I'm assuming you mean all honda/acuras of this age.
  • gsracer05gsracer05 Posts: 2
    Hey guys i just recently bought a 95 Acura Integra GS-R but im not sure its a "real GS-R" also it has no leather did any of the models come without leather??my car came in black it has a sunroof and its sitting on 4 hubcap rims without the hubcaps with toyo tires it has the Vtech and the RPM guage does read 9000 RPM and Redlines at 8100?? and when i bought the car it was at a car auction and the screen read GS-R But no rims and leather i can understand the rims being gone but not so sure about the interior ?? the back silver patch neither reads special edition or Vtech because the car has been in an accident and i can understand the patch not being there the car was hit in the rear right quartel panel and has been fixed the car is in like 80 percent great condition with few minor scratches and paint blemish and minor door dings and i purchased the car for 3500 total.....with 156 thousand miles ??wat do u guys think?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    GS-Rs came with standard cloth up thru '97, although most were sold with the optional leather. ALL GS-Rs had a moonroof and alloys though. It sounds like you have the real deal, with the 8100 rpm redline. Regular 1.8s redlined somewhere below 7000 rpm, I forget the exact rpm.

    Look at your registration for the VIN series if you want to be sure. GS-Rs in 1995 were DB858 for the sedans, and DC238 for the hatches. So look for either 'DB' or 'DC' in your VIN (it should be around the fifth place in the VIN) then look for the digit that follows the letters. If it is an 8 or a 2, you have a GS-R. If it is a 7 or a 4, you don't.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • one more question fellas. i just bought the car ('93 integra 4-door), and dont get me wrong, i love the car, the motor pulls strong, doesnt burn any oil, and on top of that its a quick lil thing! my only problem is my engine is begging for me to let it breathe and give it vtec (lol) my question is how much do the common swaps cost? i was lookin into the 89-92 b16 swap (cause its a stock swap, no mods) but then i thought the ls/vtec would be cheaper since i already have the block. can sum1 who has had both swaps done let me know what kind of cash ill be spendin? thanx again guys
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