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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)

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  • Looking at a 94 hatchback with 158000 miles. It looks in great shape. What kind of mileage are folks getting from these engines?
  • map5map5 Posts: 5
    My 90 Integra had the same problem and the mechanics couldn't solve it for a couple of years. The car would start up and run fine in hot weather until I stopped and turned off the engine. If I tried to start the car again within a few minutes, it wouldn't start. I'd have to wait 10 minutes or more before I could get the car started again. They cleaned the torque plate to no avail. Finely, last year, the guys at Zimbrick Acura suggested replacing the main relay. As the problem has not reemerged this summer, I'm assuming that did the trick.
  • map5map5 Posts: 5
    I'm looking for any information or advice. I have a 1990 Acura Integra 2DR Hatch, which I purchased new and have taken good care of. It has about 118k miles. This winter I started having intermittent problems, which have gotten noticeably worse this summer. For the first 10 minutes or so of driving the car, the automatic transmission will not shift from 2nd to 3rd. The car revs at 3000 RPM at 30 mph and 4000 RPM at 40 mph. After a while, the car will jolt a little as it finally shifts into 3rd and the RPMS will drop down to normal levels. At first this problem occurred only when I started the car for the first time of the day, but now (after the dealer has had at it) it happens every time I start the car.

    The dealer replaced a leaky water pump, checked the parts around the transmission, and flushed out the entire transmission. About $600 later, the transmission problem remains and the dealer suggests that I replace the transmission at a cost of $2550.

    I recently heard that Acura's and Honda's have troublesome transmissions. Should I consider my car a goner and donate it or try to salvage my car? Any suggestions or advice would be much appreciated. Thank you.
  • integinteg Posts: 2
    I am looking at a 2000 Integra LS w/ GS upgrades, it has about 67000 miles, custom blue paint, rims and tires, adjustable suspension, cold air, and an average sound system w/ amp and sub. They are asking $13500 but i think thats too much considering edmunds price of around $8500 but thats stock price. I thought about $11500 would be a good price. The air conditioning is broke because of the idiot who installed the cold air, and there is a pretty nice crack in the bumper that needs repair. What price does everyone else think is good?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    you've got a cracked bumper cover and no A/C? I would say $8500 is the most I'd pay, unless you just LOVE the paint job and rims. In that case, maybe go as high as $10K.

    I mean, you could buy a 2000 LS owned by some little ol grandma, pick it up for $9-10K with those miles, and put on rims, suspension, and a CAI of your choosing for almost the same money. AND it would have working A/C!

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • I can't get the stupid light on my dash to go out. I have mashed away on the little button under the dash but the light wont go out. Any ideads?
  • slajjsslajjs Posts: 2
    My 90 Integra does the same thing. Started doing it last winter and has gotten worse over the last few months. Sometimes it will go the first 2 or so miles before it will shift properly. Once it shifts the first time it will work fine until the car cools down again (has to sit a couple of hours). I bought a manual for the tranny and checked out the shift solenoids, which seemed ok. The car is in good shape and I hate to dump it but I can't seem to find anyone who knows about these trannys. It's definitely not worth putting $2500+ into it.

    Good luck, let me know what you find out and I'll do the same.
  • After doing much research on "reliable" used cars, I bought my 1992 Integra gs (automatic) with 120,000 miles on it, and after one month of driving it it started having problems. On the highway mostly, the rpm's would drastically start to jump anywhere from 2,000 to 6,000 within seconds on a random basis. Sometimes while driving, the car would just shut off and then turn back on seconds later. I know very little about cars, but it felt to me like the gas was somehow not getting to the engine. Other times when it would shut off, I had to pull over and wait about 15 minutes until it decided to start back up again. This happened more frequently the more I drove it until eventually it wouldn't start up at all.

    I had to let the car sit for 6 months until I could afford to take it to get fixed. When I eventually did they replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor button, and cleaned the fuel system as well as an oil change which came to $389 and was supposed to fix the problem. Well I just got it back from the shop yesterday, and when I took it on the highway the rpm's still did a little jumping and the check oil light came on. This is how it all started in the first place until it eventually got worse and worse to where I couldn't drive it. Now I wish I never bought it in the first place.

    Can anybody tell me why this might be happening?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    I don't understand what you are saying - please clarify.

    First of all, what do you mean it jumps from 2K to 6K rpm? The tach needle jumps, or you actually hear the engine rev way up? And did the car slow down when this happened?

    And sometimes the car just stalls when you are driving along? If so, replacing the maintenance parts you just had replaced will not fix the problem. The car actually requires a repair. Did this shop actually drive the car? I would take it back to them, and take a mechanic out with you onto the highway, where you can demonstrate the car's problems.

    It sounds like the car has both electrical problems and transmission problems, but it is hard to be sure because your description of the problems leaves me wondering exactly what is really happening.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • Yes, the tach neadle would jump from 2K to 6K and the engine would rev up as well. It would do this rapidly whithin a matter of a few seconds. When it did this the engine felt like it was "gasping" for air. It's kinda hard to explain but it felt as if the gas was not reaching the engine or something and it would start "gasping" and the rpm's would rapidly start bouncing around and the engine would rev up as well. The car would also slow when this happened, kinda like it was studdering. I know verry little about cars so i really have no idea what it could be.

    Any help would be much appreciated.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    slowed down and the engine revved up when you were driving along, you have a transmission problem, and it may be a doozy. Could be anything from cheap stuff like a problem with the linkage (shifting into neutral while driving along even though you don't move the handle) to very expensive stuff like a failing torque converter. Given your talk of "shuddering", I think it is most likely a dying torque converter, but you should take it to a transmission shop and ask them to drive it on the highway and advise you.

    I think that explains the "gasping for air" phenomenon as well. Best guess without seeing the car.

    The stalling thing is a separate problem most likely, but not definitely. If you find out there is an expensive problem with the transmission, and you are inclined to fix it, don't do so until you get the stalling thing checked out as well.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • A reporter is hoping to hear from residents of Southeast Michigan who fit either of the following descriptions:
    - feel as if the cost of gasoline is significantly driving up their commuting costs (no pun intended)
    - have been impressed with their vehicles' gas mileage

    Please respond to jfallon@edmunds.com no later than Thursday, August 25, 2005 with your daytime contact info, year/make/model of vehicle, city of residence and city of employment.

    Thanks for your consideration,
    Jeannine Fallon
    Corporate Communications
    Edmunds.com

    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • hml201hml201 Posts: 11
    Hi, I have a 2000 Acura Integra LS sedan. It runs to 86,000 miles now. Two weeks ago, we brought the car to a local Acura dealer to replace the brakes. It ended up the dealer said they had to replace both the front and rear pads and rotors. The total cost is $780. One week later, my car suddently lost power when I was driving on the road. When I pushed gas, the engine just sounded like a thunder noise. I can still get a little speed at 20mph. So I drove to the same dealer(luckily it was only 2 miles away). They checked it and said the b pipe leaked. They replaced the b pipe and it cost me $513. Just want to know if all these charges sound reasonable? I just feel they are too high. But no experience on this. Thanks a lot for your advice.
  • Near the end of my commute yesterday morning, my '91's oil light came on when idling at the last traffic light, then began flashing regularly about once a second until returning to idle. At the end of the day, the light came on solid after the engine warmed up. I stopped it quickly, looked under the hood for leaks, etc, and checking the level (full). Restarting, no light, then 10 miles later a solid light for 20 miles to home. The engine is running normally (very well), no smell, no oil leaking.
    Engine is 1.8L, 5-speed, 170K, 2,500 since last change (by %#*x^ Jiffy Lube), normally uses about 1 qt 10W-30 between 5K changes of oil and filter..
    Is the light telling me I have a bad filter, sender, loose wire, catastrophic failure imminent, what?

    Thanks in advance - I'll change the oil and filter again to see it that cures it.

    David, in central Virginia
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    to be honest, they don't sound too awfully high for a dealer. Midas would have done the b pipe fix for half the price, probably, but it wouldn't have been the OEM part, and would probably have lasted half the time. Which is only important if you still plan to keep the car for several more years.

    4 new brake pads and rotors sounds like about a $700 job at the dealer - no huge surprise there either. Again, if you had gone to a brake place, it would have been two or three hundred $$ cheaper, non-OEM parts, and might have done the job just as well.

    For future reference, Acura OEM parts are pricey compared to the aftermarket, when available. And of course, for anything that is not strictly normal maintenance, the dealer will usually be the most expensive place you can go. You have the comfort of knowing that people specially trained for your car are working on it, and that the parts used will be OEM, but you pay for that comfort. Through the nose, in Acura's case. You also usually get a longer warranty, and the chance to develop a relationship with your dealer so that when the unusual repair DOES come up a few years down the line, they will go the extra yard for you.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    If you have no funny smells or sounds, the car seems to perform as normal, the oil is full, and you have no overheating or running hot, it is possible it is just a faulty wire or sending unit. I still wouldn't gamble with it too much, I would take it in and have it checked if I were you. It is possible with those miles for something like the oil sender to have gone out, and even though the oil is full it is not pumping properly. Although usually, you would get some other symptom.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • I just got my car out of the shop and it turns out the oil light was turning on because of a loose connection with the wires or the sensor, thank god. My car is running fine now for the most part. It just worries me when i go on the highway and see the rpm needle bouncing around more than it should at around 3500 rpm's (about 70 mph) because thats how it all started in the first place, real subtle.
  • hml201hml201 Posts: 11
    Thank you very much. I did not want to go to Acura dealer at the first. When my brake pads needed to be replaced, I went to a Midas shop. However, they replaced 4 pads and rotors and cost me $500. The job is not well done. I got the noises all the time when I pushed on brakes. I brought the car back to Midas 3 times. They tried to fix it by resurfacing the rotors. It did not work. I just feel they do not have the expertise to fix the car right. That's why I bring my car to the dealer afterwards. They fix the problems right. Just too pricey. Now your reply relieved me a lot. I need to talk to my local pals to find a repair shop who can fix import cars well. Again, I appreciate your reply. Leo
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    Hey, wow, so there you go: the job from the brake place WASN'T as good as the dealer's job. Good back-to-back comparison. And the price difference was exactly as much as I thought it would be, $280. *pats himself on the back*

    :-)

    If you can find a good full-service repair shop (not just brakes or tires, or whatever) that works exclusively on Honda/Acuras or just on Japanese cars, that is probably your best bet for balancing repair cost against repair quality. I am still struggling to find a good import repair shop that I really like in my area, so with my old Integra I was going to the dealer for most stuff, knowing I was spending some extra dough for the peace of mind of getting it done right the first time. Plus my local dealer is nice: good people and free latte. :-)

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • hml201hml201 Posts: 11
    You are right. It is not easy to find a qualified repair shop for this car. There are quite a few good shops for German cars, but not Japanese cars. Guess have to keep looking.
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