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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)



  • The only reason I am buying an '01 GS-R is I don't have the option of buying a used GS-R, due to the lack of supply. It is simply impossible to find them anywhere near here, especially in good condition. In response to your question, my '96 GS-R had less than 60K mi. and my insurance company paid me NADA book value which was just over $14K less my $500 deductable. So I think I am going to transfer about $10K in equity to the '01 and utilize a balloon payment schedule for the rest, which will make my payments virtually non-existant. This is not the optimum financial situation, however it is not that big of a deal. I'm not strapped for cash and I don't want to drive anything other than an Acura, I just love them.
  • Has Anyone seen it at the Car Show, I have a 93 Hatchback , and have been looking for a new car but Like Hatchbacks. Is the New RSX a Hatchback ? any other info would be great
  • The RSX is the replacement for the integra, and will be a hatchback. Check out the concept pics @ It will not be out until Summer '01 at the earliest.
  • rsdasrsdas Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 GSR coupe, It's got about 16000 mi. Recently I observed that the gas mileage I get for city driving is about 21 MPG, it used to be aroung 25 MPG afew months ago. Is this expected? or is something wrong? Any suggestion/help is appreciated.
  • crikeycrikey Posts: 1,038
    Just like the 2001 Honda Civic, the upcoming Acura RSX will lose the much-loved double wishbone suspension. I, for one, am very disappointed. The wishbones are Honda's trump card when in comes to smaller cars. Why is Honda decontenting their cars?
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    Check the tire pressure. I don't know where you live but when it's cold out the tire pressure drops dramatically. It's about 1-2 psi for every 10 degrees! So if you were running lets say 35F/33R (factory settings) in the summer, and you live in the North East like me, your tires could now be around 25F/23R psi which will affect your gas mileage. Your car also takes longer to warm up in the cold weather which also affects mileage.
    I set my tires in early November for 33F/32R when it was around 50 deg. out. I checked them again before Christmas when it was around 20 deg. and they were 28/27 psi! I had also noticed a less than normal gas mileage. You must keep them over 30 to get decent mileage.. Too bad you do a lot of city driving. I do mostly highway driving (80mi. commute each way!) probably 95% of the time and average 29-30mpg crusing at 75-80mph. The lowest I ever got with 50-50 city/hway driving was 26 mpg. You may also want to check your air filter if it's too dusty or have a lot of dirt on the roads where you live. Did you switch to another gas brand? When you go to the pump to fill up, make sure you pull up to the same pump over and over to get a more accurate calculation of your gas mileage. No pump is the same. With some pumps, you can put as much as 1 gallon or more in your tank than with other pumps. I have a suspicion that this is what's happening with you. You fill up at one gas station and then at another and calculate the mileage. You must go to the same station and use the same exact pump. If you drive around at the other side of the pump is no good. The pavement is uneven and you will get a different amount of fuel in your tank..
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    where did you guys hear about the lack of wishbone suspension in the RSX? None of the articles I read mentioned anything about that. I just can't believe the suspension could be worse because the RSX will be competing with the Celica which has great handling. It also doesn't mean that if the double-wishbone suspension is gone, the car won't handle as good. It 's very possible Honda has come up with a new patented suspension like Honda racing does all the time with their race cars. A race shop (Honda/Acura specialist performance shop) in NYC where I get my mods done, has a Civic drag racer (560hp at the wheels with a GSR motor!) that has an all new suspension on it that was made by some company that is patenting it now as we speak. I saw the car in the shop but I couldn't take a good look underneath.. It ran the 1/4 in 10.1 sec. and with crappy slicks that melted at the end of the 1st run!
    Anyway, did this come from a reliable source?
  • crikeycrikey Posts: 1,038
    See for Shawn Church's impressions on the new RSX. The wishbones are gone. Every car magazine is belly-aching for its loss in the 2001 Honda Civic, which made the Civic just a run-of-the-mill type of compact car in the same league as the Corolla. Quoted directly from Shawn's post:

    "First, this car is definitely based on the 7th gen Civic chassis. The rear suspension setup is identical, except that the RS-X has a nice beefy swaybar back there where the Civic's I've seen have none. Additionally, the front end retains the Macpherson strut setup with the high mounted steering rack."

    "The big question is the suspension. The new Civic hasn't been great in that area, but this car should be tuned more aggressively. If the aluminum lower control arm is a true production piece, then maybe Honda has taken a serious look at the McStrut setup for the RS-X."

    I'm not saying that the RS-X is not a good car. I'm saying that it would have been a better car if the wishbones were left on the car.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    Ok, I read the article. I had been on that web page last week but only had looked at the pics.. Anyway, yes, it looks like the wishbone susp. is gone but only in the front! The Civic still has it in the rear and so does the RSX. The shiny silver bar the author saw underneath the car was a performance lower tie bar which is usually added when people modify their cars. It connects the 2 lower control arms together for rigidity and less movement, thus better sharper handling.
    Seems the author doesn't know much about suspensions. He keeps saying "lower control arm". Every car has 2 LCA's (lower cont. arms). There is always the left LCA and the right LCA. So if he keeps using singular, and it's silver polished or aluminum as he thinks, it's definitely a lower tie bar because 99% of the time they are aluminum. The Type-R is the only Integra that comes with lower tie bars and they are aluminum and silver in color.
    If the RSX has a front lower tie bar then it most likely has a rear lower one - I hope. I like the sound of a thick sway bar which is the problem with the GSR today. The LS/GS/GSRs only have a 14mm rear sway bar compared to Type-R's 22mm one. Upgrading that sway bar (to like a 19mm like I did or 22mm) reduces body roll by like 95% and the car handles better because you have more tire contact with the pavement. Thicker sway bars also provide slight oversteer instead of severe understeer that stock Integras and most FWD cars suffer from.
    The author also says that the Honda rep told him that the RSX will go into production in April. That's also good news because I can't wait to test drive this baby to see what it can do. I just hope I don't have a salesman in the car with me..
  • rbraverrbraver Posts: 13
    Hi there everyone.

    I just bought a '95 Integra RS 4-door with 57k miles. No problems. I just had the oil changed at a Jiffy Lube, and noticed that I now get the "Maintenance Required" light flashing for about 5 seconds every time I start the car. Is this just a timed interval thing that I can ignore--or is something really wrong? Thanks for your help.
  • Now that we all know about the new Integra RSX, what about Acura's 2002 Type R. Does anyone know when it will be realesed ? and the specks along with it ? Also, does anyone think it will be worth the wait ?
  • crikeycrikey Posts: 1,038
    I, too, am looking forward to testdrive this car. And yes, hopefully, the salesman doesn't come along.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    There is a button you need to press to reset the "maintenance requried" blinking light. It is located under the dash way down to the right of the steering wheel. Put your hand down there and feel around, you 'll find it. You can always look at the owners manual too.
    Don't get your oil change at Jiffy Lube. Their oil filters suck. Buy some Honda filters at (look at the specials) and bring in your own oil filter to where you have it changed. Honda oil filters were rated the best by an independent study and proved to clean the oil the best. Don't trust Jiffy Lube's $1 filters to protect your engine!
  • brekkebrekke Posts: 304
    I think my '87 LS may have just developed the same leak. While driving in the rain, I also heard a hissing noise like water dropping onto a hot surface (only when I had the heat on). I don't want to drop any more money on this car, but I'd like to know if you find anything out. Someone guessed I might need a new heater core, but I don't know what that entails.
  • boston14boston14 Posts: 111
    low? I went to the car show and I just cant believe Acura would design the Integra's radio so so low. It reminded me of something from the 80's. I test drove a 97 3.0 Cl and the transmission is the worst in driving history. The shifts were felt from Seattle to New Jersey to me. I know Acura are great in general but damm I am sticking with Mitsubishi for 30% less money.
  • sgrd0qsgrd0q Posts: 398
    Hi all,

    My girlfriend has a '90 Integra that has lately developed a problem - whenever the engine is idle the temperature (according to the gauge) goes up. It actually gets fairly close to the red line. Then whenever the car is driven again the temperature drops back to normal. Also, even if the car is not driven - as long as you rev the engine the temp goes down.

    What is surprising to me is that this happens very quickly - the temperature goes up only in a few seconds, and then when driven (or when revving up the engine) it goes down again in a couple of seconds. I wonder what that may be. Also, and again surprisingly, the fan blows cold air when the temperature goes up...

    If anyone can shed any light on this I will greatly appreciate it!

  • fjm1fjm1 Posts: 137
    Thermostat (cheap) or water pump (expensive)

    Only1harry: Does SCCA allow plus-zero (slightly lower/wider) tires of same OEM diameter for STOCK class cone bashers?
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    definitely, the thermostat is all it is. I doubt it's the water pump because you 'd be having some leaks with that.

    fjm1: In the stock classes, you 're allowed to go with any size tire you want as long as you keep the original rim size and diameter. You can have aftermarket rims (lighter ones) but they have to be 15x6" or whatever the factory dimensions were. As far as tires you can put wider and lower profile street tires if you wish or race tires which are called R compound tires and are also street legal but you only get 4-5K mi. out of them. These are usually Kumho (V700), Hoosier, BF Goodridge (G-Force) or Goodyear in order of popularity.
    So yes, you can go to any tire you want as long as you keep the factory wheel diameter. For example most g3 Integras come with 195-55-15". You can put 205-50-15s or 215-50-15's or 225-50s or even 195-50. As long as they 're 15" tires, they 're allowed in the GStock class. The other thing you can change and still stay in stock class is shocks believe it or not. Most of the National champs have custom valved Koni shocks (big bucks) or you can go with any aftermarket shocks like Bilstein, Koni, Tokiko & KYB. You can also change the air filter with another performance drop-in filter (no intakes, just the filter in the factory housing). And lastly you can change the axle-back (not catback) exhaust with a straight pipe (if you can, axle-back exhausts usually have 1 bend on them) but you have to have a muffler, any kind of muffler.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    Yeah now with the Type-R and Audi TT out of G Stock, the GSR, Prelude and Celica GTS will be competing for the trophies. Everytime I went auto-x racing with my brother who has a stock '98 Type-R, you see people's dissapointment on their faces there were in GS because they knew they didn't stand a chance against an ITR. I 've never seen a GSR, Prelude or GTS beat a Type-R, especially one with Kumho or Hoosier R tires on it. The only time my brother lost was to another Type-R or an Audi TT with race tires. But he was able to beat that TT again and again and then the TT would beat my brother again once in a while. The TT is an excellent handler, has a lot of torque, AWD, and 17" wheels! The TT gains about 1/2-1sec. on the ITR just on the launch alone, where the ITR spins the tires for about a second on take off, the TT just takes off with almost no wheel spin due to the AWD. So the ITR has to work harder to make up for that time lost on the launch. I was surprised my brother even beat TTs the way they were taking off from the start line.

    And his ITR has 205-50-15s on compared to 225-50s or 225-45-17" tires on the TT. Those tires are much wider than just the 20mm (which is about 1") because the TT wheels are much wider than the 6" ITR ones. I think the TT's are 7.5" wide so the tires have a lot more contact with the pavement. Anyway, here 's a pic of me 3-wheeling while auto-xing :-) but my suspension is by no means stock..


    but my suspension is by no means stock.. target=_blank
  • I had my Acura dealer install an Alarm/Keyless Entry on my 2000 Integra. I would say it works fine around 95% of the time. But that 5% is a killer especially at grocery store parking lot on a cold windy day, struggling to get into my car. I wind up opening the door with a key, alarm goes off and keeping hitting that unlock button hoping it will deactivate. It takes about 30 seconds (feels like an eternity though) then it's okay.

    I have an Accord LX with dealer installed Alarm/Keyless Entry. I never had any problems it works 100% of the time. Any suggestions? Thanks.

    P.S. Do you all pay $27.95 for an oil change at the dealer? So far I've but it bugs me as my Accord at the Honda dealer cost only $14.95. They say they'll service all Acura cars as well. I'm very tempted to take my Integra there. Thanks.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    to the Honda dealer!! All Integras and Civics use the same oil filter!
    $14.95? Where do you live? I get my oil done at the Honda dealer once in a while when it's on sale for $19.95, otherwise I buy Honda oil filters for my '97 Civic & '99 Integra (which is the same filter) and go to other shops that charge $15.95-19.95 and give them the filter so they subtract like $2 for that. My Acura dealer wants $32.95!!! What a ripoff, and they use the same Honda oil filter as the Civic does. It's not that I can't afford it but it's the principle. I don't like getting ripped off or overpaying for things like this.
    I like taking my Integra to my Honda dealer for oil changes because the mechanics look at my car to see what new mod I got and we talk about different upgrades and stuff. They also have given me some good advice. The Acura mechanics are not too talkative and seem to work like dogs without resting or taking brakes. The Acura shop looks like a sweat shop because it's the only Acura dealership in a 30 mile radius so they 're always busy and they have a huge shop with like 20 lifts and there are at least 15 guys working in there. It looks like a airport or airplane hanger when you go inside. The service advisors (there are about 5-6 of them in cubicles - nice working area outside the shop) and manager are very curtious though and they have nice loaners plus they wash your car every time.. Their donuts are good too :) At the Honda dealership, they have 3-4 old torn vinyl chairs in the 5x7' waiting room and the 13" TV barely works, but it beats paying $33 bucks for an oil change at the Acura dealer even if they have a 27" TV w/cable, coffee & donuts, and leather couches in their waiting room.

    Hey, what happened to my pic? I must 've moved it to another album, let me test it again..

  • I have a 99 Civic HB with slight modifications. I'm looking into purchasing a 96 Integra SE. This is only a thought. I'll make the decision on whether to buy it or not based on how well I can modify the car. The SE has 72k miles on it. But I would like to know what an intake system could do for the car(hp,torque) And I know little about Thermal exhausts. I was recommended to add this to it if I purchased it. Can anyone update me and tell me how I can benefit from adding that?
  • zacurazacura Posts: 13
    I have a 2000 GS coupe, and I was wondering if anyone who's taken it in for an oil change at their Acura dealer has received a loaner car for it?? I would'nt mind paying about 10 bucks more for an oil change if I could get a loaner and run it around town all day.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    A Cold Air Intake will you the most bang for the buck. The AEM CAI goes for about $180 and will give you about 10-12hp and 6-7 ft-lbs of torque.
    I would not get an exhaust alone since it will only give you about 2-3hp. You need to get a header (DCsports, Comptech, Mugen-expensive, etc.) Header & exhaust together will give you another 7 or so HP and more torque.
    The intake alone will make the car noticeably faster and the header & exhaust will give you more power in the mid-top end (RPMs) and you will also get a higher top speed. To see any "real" power though you 'd have to do an LS/VTEC conversion and that 's about $3K. You will get an extra 40-50hp though and your car will be faster than stock GSRs. Just make sure you get it done at a race shop where they 've done a lot of these. But why buy a 140hp SE and $1K+ on Intake, header & exhaust? Why not get a '96 GSR if power is what you mainly want? Modding the GSR will give you better gains anyway. Just add an AEM intake to the GSR and you 'll have 185+hp at the flywheel (I gained 12.5hp and 7.5ft-lbs of torque at the wheels with the AEM, that's almost 15hp at the crank/flywheel). Then spend some of the money you 'd spend modding the Se on suspension mods for the GSR. It's a lot more fun and safer driving an Integra with a nice tight suspension.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    I got an oil change once at the dealer when they were running a special but I got there early and waited about 1hr for it. I didn't ask for a rental. You normally get a rental if you 're getting scheduled maintenance done like at 15k or 30mi. (which can be $200 or more) or your car is there for warranty repairs.
    I got a rental from them after I brought the car in about 10 days after I bought it because it was pulling to 1 side and asked them to check or do a wheel alignment. They said the car wouldn't be ready till the afternoon, so I just said, "then I 'm getting a loaner right?" and they guy said sure we 'll get you one. The lady before me had just gotten the last Acura loaner they had so they send me accross the street to the Chevy dealer which they own and gave me a Cavalier POS rental. Worst car I ever drove and it only had 2k mi. on it. It felt like it had 150k on it and I wouldn't want that car even if they gave it to me.. I learned my lesson now. Next time I went back at 7-7:30 and was the 2nd person there and they gave me a '97 Integra LS auto. They seem to give the CLs and a TL they have to TL and RL owners only.. They only have about 4-5 Integras, 1-2 base CLs and 1 TL to loan out from what I can tell so it's first come first serve.. Late comers are send accross the street for cheap Chevy crapola rentals.
  • Here's the website for the coupon I was telling you about.

    I'm tempted to confront Acura dealer about why costing so much for an oil change for a same Honda oil filter. $14.95 at the Honda dealer is a great deal, which all so includes a free (so-so) car wash.

  • fjm1fjm1 Posts: 137
    The Koni sport shocks have an adjustable spring seat supposedly allowing ride height to be lowered up to 3/4 inch.

    If I utilize this feature will my car be too low to qualify for Solo Stock?
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    I think your car still qualifies to be in the stock class. I 'm assuming you 're talking about SOLO II (auto-x) racing?
    I wouldn't really lower the car by the shock. Springs is the best way to lower your car. I have my springs on the middle ring on the Konis which means stock height, but my springs are about 1" lower anyway. Most people with race springs (2.5-3" drop) use the upper ring on the shock to increase the height because the springs are too low and their tires rub. From what I remember, the rings (grooves) on my Konis looked like they were about 1" apart. Could be 3/4 but it looked more like a full inch.
    The problem with using the Konis to lower the car is that the spring will be now constantly compressed by 3/4-1" and your ride characteristics will be affected. The best way is to get aftermarket springs that are 1" shorter but they 're designed that way. BUT if you want to race in the stock class (GS) you gotta leave the stock springs on. The best mod you can make, not that Konis is not a good move, is to get yourself some R compound tires or another set of wheels with R tires on them. You should do very well now in the absense of ITRs and TTs (they got moved to DS class because they were way too good for GS), assuming you 're talking about your '00 Bimmer. Wait, did the 3 series move to DS too? I think they did. Well with R tires and the Konis set a little stiffer than normal you should do pretty well and should be able to give those ITRs and TTs a run for their money. If you 're a really good driver you can beat an inexperienced ITR driver. Last year in G Stock, there is a very good driver with a 328i ('99) and R tires that beat 1 or 2 Type-R with fairly new drivers but succumbed to the more experienced ones, and he was only about 1/2 sec. behind my times and I 'm in DSP..
  • fjm1fjm1 Posts: 137
    I might campaign the Bimmer upon occasion but the primary cone warrior will be a '92 Integra LS. I have looked at the classes and while the BMW would be fun, I don't think it would be competitive. The class that the Integra is in looks like a better match. I'm not neccesarily in the game only to win, but given the choice of a class/car that could win versus one that probably won't I pick win. Plus, the tires for the Teg are MUCH cheaper!

    I've got access to a shop that I can do the work myself. I'm going to try compressing the stock springs slightly (1/2-3/4") and see how it affects handling. The stock springs have probably settled 1/4" or so since new anyways. Worst case scenario is a few extra hours switching them all back to stock height.
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