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Toyota Celica (Hatchbacks / All Years)

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  • QUCIK and EASY WAY to REPLACE 1ZZ and 2ZZ thermostats

  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,896

    @peterpan99 said: QUCIK and EASY WAY to REPLACE 1ZZ and 2ZZ thermostats

    Thanks for detailing this. Very helpful!

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  • Kumho Ecsta PA31 all-season high performance tire, rated V 500 AAA

    I bought a set of 1 SUMITOMO HTR-Z Ultra High Performance Summer. $360 with life-time balance, rotate, repairs etc..

    Had about 10K miles with about 2/3 tread left. The front tires had some uneven wear. The tire is fun to drive, but is known for poor wet traction.

    I just got in a spin on a rainy freeway off ramp, driving carefully at about 30 MPH. Everything was riding fine, then suddenly the tires lost all traction. The car spinned out, jumped a high curb, dragging the engine bottom on the edge of the curb, hit a wooden post (12 Inch DIA), broke it clear off the concrete base, continue riding on the curb until I was able to steer it off the curb.

    Elec Stability Control would probably prevented that spin.

    The bumper had a long but shallow vertical dent. The hood was bent just a little. If the car did not hit the wooden post, it may have gone over into a 20-feet ravine, which most likely total the car and cause some injuries.

    During the spin, I was trying valiantly to steer the car this way then that way trying to recover the traction with no luck. My quick glances saw no other cars coming from behind so there was no secondary collision. Very lucky I did not get hit from behind.

    It scared me now that I used to drive these tires at 80-90 MPH on freeway even during rain. Lucky they were all straight and wide freeways. Any sharp turns or quick lane changes would likely spin the car.

    I have seen quite a few sports coups spin out even on straight road in light rain. I used to drive fast passed these shaken people in their expensive sports coups and laugh at them...

    So no more Ultra-High Performance Summer tires for me. I was looking into Tirerack and found Kumho Ecsta PA31 rated top over other similar tires. The speed rating is V with tread wear rated 500, which is like 50K miles. I had before Kumho ECSTA with good dry and wet traction, wear long and evenly, but the sidewall is weaker so the turns are mushy. Also the tires were noisy after about 20K miles. But I have to make sure my a$$$ wont get spinned down into a ditch in the rain. So safety first.

    $272 per set plus shipping and mounting, probably about $450 total, not a bad deal.

  • peterpan99peterpan99 Posts: 65

    Celica 2000-2006 Coolant replacement procedure

    This is a very critical procedure. If you bungle it, the engine may overheat and crack. Toyota recommends this procedure every 50K miles and performed by authorized dealer only. Unlike older cars, Aluminum block engines must have coolant to fill engine block first, then run engine hot to open thermostat to fill radiator later.

    If you have to do it yourself, there is a label under the hood, with instructions and a sketch of the coolant reservoir and hoses to help you do it. Follow it to the T of you may overheat the engine:

    1. Replace coolant when engine is cold or you may get burns. Need about 1 and a half gallon of coolant. Use Toyota red LLC diluted in half only with distilled water. Hard water will deposit calcium in coolant lines and eventually block them.

    2. Turn cabin heater lever ON. Put transmission in PARK, set BRAKE, chock the rear wheels carefully.

    3. Remove the plastic engine bay baffle on passenger side to expose the white grapefruit-sized coolant reservoir on top of the radiator.

    4. Open the 2 clamps and remove the 2 half-inch rubber hoses on the right of reservoir.

    5. Remove the reservoir by removing the 10 mm bolt on top of it. Raise it about 6 inches and insert it on top of the lower hood hook using a small slot built into the reservoir's bottom . The bottom of the reservoir should now be a level with the top of the head and a few inches higher than the engine block. Remove the reservoir cap and the white plastic butterfly air bleed valve.

    6. Get under the car and remove the right most large, black plastic engine cover at the bottom on driver side. Position a pan to collect coolant.

    7. Open the 2 x 10 mm nuts holding the thermostat in place behind the alternator. Use an universal joint to get behind the alternator. Pull out the 2-inch black rubber hose with the dome holding the thermostat. Lower the dome down to the bottom of the engine bay to drain coolant from the radiator. Remove and inspect the thermostat with it's gasket for any leaks or damages. Coolant should be draining out of the engine block. Over 90% of the coolant in the car would be drained through this thermostat cavity. No need to open the drain at the bottom of engine block, near the exhaust manifold.

    8. I would skip the flushing with chemicals since it's too complicated, time consuming and can leave residue in the cooling system. If needed, flushing should be left to a dealer.

    9. When coolant stops draining, close the white butterfly drain plug at the radiator bottom.

    10. Start adding about 3.7 liters or 3.5 quarts of coolant into the reservoir up to the FULL line, keep adding as coolant flows into engine block and the reservoir level goes down. Coolant should flow through the bottom hose into the engine block. Inspect the floor, the bottom of radiator and all coolant hoses for leaks. If there are leaks, stop, check for causes carefully and replace any faulty parts before continue.

    11. Reinsert the half-inch hoses (2 hoses) on the right of reservoir and secure their clamps.

    12. A/C OFF. Start and IDLE engine until COOLING FAN BLOWS FIRST then FAN STOPS. This is when the thermostat was open to let about half liter coolant into into the radiator for cooling. Coolant level in the engine block shuold go down by about half liter or half quart. Watch the ENGINE TEMPERATURE indicator at all time. If OVERHEAT shut down engine immediately and troubleshoot.

    13. Add about half liter or half quart coolant to reservoir. The cooling system is supposed to be full with about 1 gallon of coolant, including what's the reservoir. If not then there is a leak or overfilling. Tighten CAP and BLEED VALVE on top of reservoir. DO NOT RUN ENGINE WITH CAP and BLEED VALVE OPEN as the engine will suck air in through the reservoir if it's empty.

    14. For about 15 minutes or more, rev the engine INTERMITTENTLY to 3000 RPM FOR 5 sec then IDLE for 5 sec to bleed air bubble out of radiator into the reservoir. Ocasionally open the air bleed valve partially to let the air out (caution: may spray hot coolant). When there is no air bubbles blowing through the reservoir out of the air bleed valve, air is all bled out of cooling system. The air bleeding part is complete.

    15. Wait for engine to cool down, check coolant level. Check ONLY WHEN ENGINE IS COOL. Coolant level should be between LOW and FULL or something may be leaking, or there is still AIR BUBBLES in cooling system. Check leaks under engine and on coolant hoses. Add coolant to FULL level if low.

    16. Monitor coolant level in the reservoir and add if necessary in the next few trips. You may want to repeat item 13 to 16 to bleed air, or make sure ENGINE TEMPERATURE indicator never goes into HIGH LEVEL and drive the car in the next few days while monitoring and ADDING COOLANT if LOW. Replace the top and bottom engine baffles.

    17. Depending on severity of engine temperature and cooling problems, you can drive the car without stressing the engine and watch engine temp, coolant levels and check for leaks on the floor, radiator and coolant hoses. If severe, call a tow truck and head for the dealer.

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