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Toyota Celica (Hatchbacks / All Years)

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Comments

  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,687
    If it's an '84, it has EFI, so there's no carburetor. The fuel filter is not under the hood, it is in the fuel line back near the tank, and it is a MAJOR pain in the butt to change. Toyota does not specify replacing it on a regular basis, but only if it becomes clogged.

    HOWEVER, if you are not auto-savvy and you did your own tune-up, I am guessing there is a HIGH likelihood that something you did has caused the problem! Do you mean that it was idling fine before you did anything? In that case, definitely.

    Back-track and review the things you did, make sure you put things back together properly, etc. Share with us exactly what your tune-up consisted of.

    Edit...I see that your post was some time ago, so perhaps you are no longer checking here...I hope you got your car running properly though! :-)

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • I admit I don't know as much about my vechile as I should. I usually let the shops deal with it. However in the past year my 2000 Toyota Celica GT has been in the shop 3 times. I also have the problem of missing oil. I once when on a 400 mile trip. When I got back (total 800+ miles) I had absolutely no oil. My car doesn't smoke or have an apparent oil leak. The oil light doesn't even come on. I only knew to check the oil, because when I had me brakes replaced the guy said that I may have an oil leak, yet he couldn't find any oil in the under carriage or anything. He asked if I have some on my driveway. I of course said no. I have a concrete drive that I would have noticed a big glob of oil. So I don't know what;s wrong. As of yesterday my car is not moving. I made some sort of ripping sound like the tire had blown out(but it didn't) I sounded like it was coming from the brakes, but then the check engine light came on. Any suggestions as to what happened.
  • guitarzanguitarzan Posts: 632
    How do you know there is no oil?

    It is highly suspect that the oil is empty, but the oil light has not come on, AND your engine has not seized yet, AND there is no trace of a leak, AND it is not blowing smoke. All of these add up to = impossible.

    How about this: Is the dipstick too short?
  • rorrrorr Posts: 3,630
    I'm confused about something.

    We've had at least 3 individuals, ALL with '00 model Celica GT's, come into this forum complaining about WILDLY excessive oil consumption (4 quarts in just a few hundred miles for one individual if memory serves), and yet NONE of these folks note ANY smoke or oil leaks?

    And then, after 1 or 2 posts, they always disappear, never to return to let anyone know what the problem was? Never any explanation about how the oil can just "dematerialize" out of their engine? :confuse:

    "...the oil light has not come on, AND your engine has not seized yet, AND there is no trace of a leak, AND it is not blowing smoke. All of these add up to = impossible."

    Exactly.
  • ahiggs01ahiggs01 Posts: 2
    It's not impossible. I was about to trade-in the old Celica .... when I thought I would give it one more try to figure out what is going on. The Service Manager decided to contact the Toyota home office, they agreed to replace the short block with no charge. They could not tell me what the problem was, because Toyota instructed the Service Center to replace the short block and send back the old one. I am not losing oil any longer and it runs great. I will forever own a Toyota. They do stand behind their products and service!
  • rorrrorr Posts: 3,630
    Hey! One of those folks with the excessive oil consumption is back!

    I'm glad that Toyota fixed the issue; but I'm still curious about how an engine can consume a gallon of oil in 700 miles WITHOUT smoking or leaking?

    Logically, the oil has to go SOMEWHERE. If it isn't all over the ground (leaking), or out the tailpipe (smoking), the oil MUST still be somewhere in the engine. Right? The only question is where.
  • guitarzanguitarzan Posts: 632
    AHA! Toyota has discovered a used motor oil dissipation process, which leaves NO TRACE of any pollutants whatsoever. They're hiding the engines that did it, and will soon build a tall, tall factory, and make BILLIONS of dollars with their new "Instant Waste Removal System", or IWRS.

    Sorry :) I couldn't resist!
  • peterpanpeterpan Posts: 120
    My 01 GTS once a while would momentarily lose the speedometer, at the same time, the manual sport shifting mode would stop working. Usually it would return to normal within 1 to 5 minutes.

    Anybody had the same problem and know how to fix it?
  • swtasscarsswtasscars Posts: 1
    i have a 1990 celica gts manual 5spd...it has over 170000 miles on it....me an my dad have done everything we can think of and dont know what is wrong with it...lately it has been hard to start really it wont start unless we pop the clutch...then after it has time to get warmed up a bit it starts like missing but like 10x worse and it doesnt not went to go over 1 1/2 grand or 1500 rpms and it is bogging down real low and doesnt accelerate for [non-permissible content removed]....it doesnt want to do nothing and eventually the rpms drop below the idle speed and stalls....we cant think of anything that would make it act like this....need help bad it has a serious problem that needs to get fixed...does any1 have a 90 celica gts that has experienced this same problem or known any1 that has..............thanks if you help me out
  • wulveswulves Posts: 3
    Thank You I agree ,and the Toy is sitting in the drive in the same state.I have repeately gone over and over that engine,I even put the old plugs back in thinking ,maybe the Champion plugs were for another model.Here is what I did ,Toy running before tune up ,but reall bad ,so I saw the cap sparking ,and went a bought the cap ,which has the plug wires attached,a rotor ,and plugs ,organized some runaway wires sitting on the engine and then ,well here we are .It cranks,it runs as long as I give it gas,if I take my foot off the petal it stalls out within seconds.So I am thinking ,clogged filter ,fuel pump?,I dislodged a wire while organizing them ,crossed plug wires ,but checked that out with every combo I could change them too.So where do I go from here ,a garage ? could it be a sensor ( emmission )?
    HELP !!!! Thanks Jimmy ,can you email your thoughts on this to wulves@aol.com Thank You Jimmy :confuse:
  • hi guys can anyone out there tell me where i can find information on a 92 toyota paseo. i typed it into the search here on edmunds and it came up with nothing. any help would be appreciated. i have a rad problem and need help. thanks
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,687
    Mechanically, it was related to the same-year Tercel. Maybe there is an active thread for Tercels - perhaps you could find some help there.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • peterpanpeterpan Posts: 120
    What did you do with it?

    Sounds like the cold-start sensor gone bad.
  • I own a 2002 Celica GT with 36,000 miles on it and I have had nothing but perfect performance with it.
  • I'm driving to Subway to get lunch and in my residential neighbourhood for whatever reason, the city has some big hoses running from a fire hydrant to a project a few blocks away (they are digging something up, not sure what) and they are covered in ashphalt. In essence it's a big speed bump for which you have to slow down to a crawl to go over.

    Well being so nice today, I had the windows open and the stereo cranking....next thing you know....BANG!!!!! Needless to say I had gone over these stupid hoses with my car. I was going about 60 Km/h (35mph). Shortly after there is a 4 way stop and I went through that no problem...phew. I keep driving a couple of seconds and slow down for a turn and when I apply moderate pressure to my brakes there is this "clunk" sound from what I think is the front of the car (not really sure though).

    The car turns fine and there are no noises as far as I can tell when I turn the wheel either way. Also there is nothing leaking under the car, and looking at the undercarriage nothing seems to be hanging/out of place nor is there any sign I bottomed out. So my only problem is this clunking sound whenever I apply moderate pressure to the brakes (no sound when light pressure applied)

    Update:

    I took it into the shop today and told them my problems. They ended up doing a brake service which consists of inspecting and lubing the brakes. The noise is still there and they told me that they would need 1-2 hours to run diagnostics on the car to get a better idea of what the problem was. They also retorqued the subframe (whatever that means) as this is often a cause of noises after accidents. In addition, they checked underneath the car and according to them absolutely everything looks as it should. I asked if the car was safe to drive as is and he said "I can't guarantee that it is".

    I decided to take the car as is and I will try another shop tomorrow to get a second opinion before forking out $160 just to have the car looked at again. Any opinions?
  • peterpanpeterpan Posts: 120
    Had the same problem running over a loose tailpipe on freeway at about 70MPH.

    The brake was making scraping noise and acting weak. Turned out that the impact knocked one of the pads hard to the point where it was stuck, therefore the brake was not squeezing the rotor from both sides. Replaced the pads and lubricate the pins holding the pads together. Noise was gone, brakes are perfect again.

    Suggest you replace the pads first. If problem is still there, replace the rotor. It's possible one or both rotors were warped by the impact.
  • guitarzanguitarzan Posts: 632
    "Inspecting and lubing the brakes".

    The only way to inspect the brakes is to pull the pads out and look at them. Mechanics / brake service places make brakes out to be rocket science. The reality is they want to charge a fortune for the labor to break the calipers free and take a close look.

    If the problem is with the brakes, you would feel a difference in the break pedal when the thud happens, and yea, that could be a broken/shifting pad.

    Were you stepping on the brakes as you hit this object? It would explain how a brake component got bent or broken during the ordeal.

    Next, I suggest an inspection by a suspension specialist. Perhaps a suspension part broke, and the suspension is shifting.
  • peter panpeter pan Posts: 75
    Anyone having car problems should buy an engine scanner. Search in Ebay for one. Should cost about $50.

    You can hook it to the diagnostic connector at the driver's left knee and turn on the key without starting the car. It will read out all error codes. Referencing the error codes in the included manual, you should have a list of all defective modules in the car. It will help you troubleshoot problems logically and cost effectively.

    Most scanners can also turn off the annoying 'check engine' light on the dash board, which dealers would charge $100 to do.

    This scanner has saved me a lot of money and headache fixing problems on my own, or managing the repairs done by dealers or repair shops.

    Good luck.
  • Great handling. Slow!!!! I want to speed it up but not burn more gas. Is this possible? Typical rice burner.
  • pranaprana Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 90' Toyoto Celica GTS. It's in great shape. One thing that needs fixing is the audio system.

    When a CD or tape is put in the head unit, the sound output is faint even when the volume knob is at the highest level. When the radio is turned on at the highest level, the whole neighbourhood shakes.

    Could this low output on the CD and Tape be due to a power amp on it's last legs? Should I replace it? BTW, where is the power amp located in this model?

    Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
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