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Toyota Celica (Hatchbacks / All Years)



  • i have a 90 toyota celica with only 70,000 miles on it but i think the struts are going. should i get a complete strut (or quick-struts) assembly? how is the quality different? i know that a lot of companies make their parts overseas and assemble them in mex-i-co and i don't want to buy busted [non-permissible content removed] struts. even monroe struts are made in mexico i think.

  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    The quality of a given company's complete and quick strut assemblies does not usually vary. The difference is that the complete assemblies contain more parts; which eliminate the need for disassembly and transferring of parts from the original unit. If you are mechanically oriented, and don't mind getting your hands dirty; go with the quick strut assembly (if it is available for this application in the brand you choose). It will save you some bucks, at no downside.

    As far as brands are concerned; Monroe and the other American manufacturers have gone downhill in quality during the last few decades; or it might be that the newer manufacturers are working harder to make better products; while the American companies continue doing what they did in the 1950s and 1960s. The bottom line is that KYB now makes the absolute best struts for this car; and their prices are highly competitive. They make several models; but the GR2 gas strut is the appropriate one for passenger car use.

    If you need part numbers; go to and look up your vehicle. The best prices on KYB usually come from Summit Racing or Rock Auto.

    If you haven't replaced struts before; you'll need to know that a special tool is needed to compress the front coil springs during installation. This requires a great amount of pressure; and should not be attempted without the proper tools. I've been a career diagnostic and electrical systems mechanic for over 40 years; but I still pay to have my struts replaced.
  • peterpan99peterpan99 Posts: 65
    edited October 2011
    KYB makes the best, longest-lasting gas struts. There are new struts now that you can adjust the damping rate from soft to stiff with a simple procedure using a screw driver.

    I bought KYB in eBay for about $75 a pair. They were sold by some sales companies but shipped directly from KYB warehouse in Indiana. So You will have factory warranty.

    There are only a few bolts to remove the strut assembly, but you need to have a special tool to compress and align the strut inside the spring to reassemble it. The shop can do it very quickly, but by hands using that tool to align takes some time, perhaps 3 hours for the pair if you do it the first time.
  • So apparently I have been cruising around with no cabin filter for quite some time. Can anyone suggest a good place to buy a cabin filter for my 2000 GT-S? Are there any "specs" or part numbers I need to be aware of? The manual is silent. Dealer, of course, wanted a ludicrous amount to sell and install it.

    I've never replaced a cabin filter before, but I assume it's easy as pie.
  • Search Amazon or eBay. I bought a few real cheap compared to dealer. After 1 year still in good shape. Have not fallen apart:

    CELICA AIR FILTER 8.44 x 8.44 Particle Filter 8.44 8.44 TOYOTA P/N P3785 CF9846 C35516 24875 LC74-61-P11

    Non critical parts is OK on line. Critical parts like oil filter, engine air filter etc... may be all counterfeits in the internet, too risky to buy and use. So be careful.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556 carries a large assortment of cabin air filters for this model. Their prices range from $3.44 for a Pronto #PC5516; to $9.71 for a Fram #CF9846; to $13.83 for a Fram #CF9846A, which combines a particulate filter with an activated carbon layer to remove odors; to $17.14 for an activated carbon ATP #RA8 (LC7461P11); and there is a rebate offer on that filter. You could also pay $29.79 for a Mahle #LAK131; which also contains activated carbon. The OE Denso filter #4531013 costs $15.25 from Rock Auto.

    These parts are listed in their online catalog, under 2000 Toyota Celica; in the "heat and air conditioning" section.
  • Thanks, both of you, for your feedback!
  • 2002 GTS with 205K miles had P0171 CEL, engine too lean, wont pass smog test.

    Mass Airflow Sensor looked dirty. Cleaned with carb cleaner, but did not help.

    Swapped a MAS from another car, worked beautifully, cleared all codes, passed smog test.

    OEM and Denso MAF retail about $220. Will buy a Chinese knock off in eBay for $20 to see how well it works and how long it lasts.
  • peterpan99peterpan99 Posts: 65
    edited March 2013
    The $20 counterfeit MAF bought on eBay is not working.

    The car runs rough, has no power for acceleration, and is doing P0171 SYSTEM TOO LEAN AGAIN.

    Damn counterfeiters are making bad sensors with TOYOTA and DENSO part numbers on it.

    I will forward the fake info to Toyota, Denso and Law Enforcement so they can deal with fakers...
  • peterpan99peterpan99 Posts: 65
    edited March 2013
    The MAF sensor bought for $26 on eBay works fine in a Lexus that uses the same sensor.

    It did not work in the Celica. The car had no starting acceleration. I got into the intersection when the car failed to move. I was nearly broadsided by incoming traffic. So What can I say?

    Put the original MAF back and the Celica runs great again.

    Put the $26 MAF sensor in the Lexus, the Lexus runs great. No problems, no check engine light...

    Not sure what happened.
  • peterpan99peterpan99 Posts: 65
    Carb cleaner fluid may have lubricating oil, which would screw up the MAF sensor.

    MAF sensor should be spray cleaned only with CRC MAF cleaner or residue-free electrical contact cleaners.
  • peterpan99peterpan99 Posts: 65
    CELICA FOG LAMP, Brand Hella model H3, part number 8GH 002 090-131,
    made in Germany, rated 12V 50W. Can be bought in AMAZON or eBay for about $2 a piece.

    This procedure, If done correctly and with experience. should take only about 15 minutes from start to finish.

    1 DO NOT TAKE OUT TOO MANY SCREWS! Only 2 x 10 mm hex head crews, at corner and front bumper, facing down.

    2. Pry the plastic wheel liner back away from the bumper and stick arm inside cavity to find the fog lamp box.

    3. Find the ROUND PLASTIC CAP on the lamp box CONCENTRIC with the LENS in front. CCW to open.


    5. Pull out the BULB and disconnect 1 wire with BLADE CONTACT terminal. BULB's flat metal base has 2 cut outs: HALF MOON TOP and RECTANGLE bottom. Bulb only fits in cavity this way.

    6. DONT TOUCH HALOGEN BULB, hold BULB by the base, insert into cavity, TURN BULB AROUND until it's in the correct orientation and fits all the way in cavity.

    7. Find the LOCKING SPRING CLIP, it goes over the BULB's base, SWING IN, PRESS HEAD DOWN and IN until LOCK with click.

    7. Put BULB GREASE on BLADE TERMINAL, insert into female terminal until locked with a click.

    8. Put ROUND PLASTIC CAP back on round hole, rotate around until it fits in cavity. Turn CW until locked in place.

    9. Reassemble engine's bottom cover, wheel cover and bumper with 2 x10mm HEX HEADS.
  • kevgretkevgret Posts: 36

    I have had my G6 HTC convertible for 7 years. In those 7 years I have documented the trials and tribulations of my car in this very forum (just read my posts). The latest problem has to do with my top. The top on my convertible will not go all of the way up. The part where the top won't go up is where the trunk has to close to complete the process but it won't.

    I have had the car to the only dealer who has worked on my car THREE times. All three times I was told there is nothing with my car and the top is fine. Well today I tried to enjoy my day off and I put my top down and up to make sure it worked... and it didn't.

    So I went to the dealer and he put the top down and up 5 times and it worked perfectly... so I explained to him that the top would not work at my house in my driveway... My driveway is on a slight incline so I had him take the car to a hill and when he tried to put the top up it FAILED.

    So now the dealer verified that the top will not close while parked on an incline... BUT he didn't want to keep the car to work on it. His suggestion was to close the top on the street and not on an incline.

    I really don't like this because I would like my top repaired to complete working condition.

    So here I am with a top that works on certain inclines and a dealer who doesn't want to try and repair it. The whole reason for me keeping this car as long as I have is for the hard top. If I can't use it there is no sense even keeping the car.

    Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix this or where to go to get it repaired?
  • guitarzanguitarzan Posts: 632
    What is an HTC? Is this a 2010 Scion?
  • peterpan99peterpan99 Posts: 65
    edited August 2013
    Procedure to replace power door lock motor, just $6 Mabuchi motor,
    not the whole door lock assembly (about $285 at stealers)

    Mabuchi motor FC-280PC-22125, about $6 in eBay. This motor is used in all Lexus and Toyota cars

    if you hit the power door lock switch and the lock wont lock or only lock partially, most likely the mabuchi motor inside the assembly is worn, dirty or burned out. This motor can be taken out and replaced within 1 hour if you are familiar with the door lock assembly and know what you are doing. Byt he second time, you should be able to finish it within 30 minuted.

    1. You can leave the lock assembly in the door. You dont have to remove these 3 screws unless you want better access to the motor housing

    Just remove 1 small screw on the white nylon shroud covering the motor housing to lift it up. The nylon shroud is flexible and wont break or cracked.

    2. Remove 2 screws that hold the motor housing to the bracket, then wiggle the housing to free its actuator off the end of the wire cable. You may have to hold the cable with a pair of pliers. Pull the motor housing out of the assembly. There are 2 other actuators that will just drop out.

    3. Use a knife or sharp blade and flat-head screw driver, cut and pry open the glued motor housing along the long edges. Anything broken can be glued back.

    4 Use flat-head screw driver, pry motor (and worm gear) out of housing.

    5. Replace with new Mabuchi motor FC-280PC-22125, sold for about $6 in eBay. This motor is used for all Lexus and Toyota cars, probably some Hondas .

    Interchange Part Number: FC-280PT-22125
    Other Part Number: KF243G-101

    Motor body length is 30 mm, with shaft 15 mm long,
    Total length is 45 mm from butt to end of shaft.
    Shaft diameter is 2 mm.

    Body height is 25 mm, depth 20 mm.

    There is a collar at the end of the shaft. heat it up and yank off with plier.

    Add grease to to the worm gear. Glue housing back with crazy glue or clear RTV.

    Reverse the assembly.

    Save yourself $285 parts plus $200 labor at the stealers.
  • It's easier to split apart the motor housing by heating up the edges with a hair dryer.

    The heat will soften the adhesive and you can pry it apart without breaking any pieces.
  • guitarzanguitarzan Posts: 632
    Confusing! Everyone has a different name for this part. My mechanic calls it a door latch, so I use that term so I can continue to talk to him. I had the driver's door latch replaced and my mechanic charged about $80 (cannot recall the exact price.) I did leave the dealer at some point when several items costing $3200 were about $1600 at a highly recommended local mechanic. This local mechanic is so honest and detail oriented, it was a blessing to get his recommendation as the Celica began truly aging. (96,000 miles on the 2000 GTS today.)

    I should have had both left and right latches changed at the same time, as they have the same duty cycle, and wouldn't you know, a year later the passenger one is failing.

    So now I am wondering when I take the car in, should I have the trunk latch proactively changed? Will it be the next to go bad? I will probably ask my mechanic's advice.

    I am also looking to quiet the cargo cover. When the car hits bumps in the road, that cover makes a terrible noise as it bounces. Underneath the cover are two square inlets, and it appears they may have held, or are supposed to hold, perhaps a piece of foam or rubber that would soften the bounce. Have to fabricate something methinks, as googles of this item have failed to produce a part.
  • peterpan99peterpan99 Posts: 65
    edited August 2013
    The thingy inside each door panels that opens and locks the door and the hatch, Toyota calls it "Power Door Lock actuator assembly."

    It's just a small motor with cable links to pull on the levers to open and lock doors. Toyota probably buys the little motor for $0.25 with about $0.50 worth of cable and plastic parts. But they charge $185 for that assembly plus 2 hours labor ($200), total $385 to change the assembly.

    For $80 your mechanic does a very cheap job. He most likely replaces the little motor as described in my previous posts, not the whole assembly.

    If you wanna do the job with the $6 Mabuchi motor plus about 1 hour per door, just follow my procedure above. You cannot break anything unless your only tool is a sledge hammer...hehe.

    I had too many weak or faulty actuator assemblies that I swapped out, so I researched the car forums and rebuilt all of them for spares. Good thing I did not throw them out.

    It feels good not getting screwed by big car companies...
  • peterpan99peterpan99 Posts: 65
    edited August 2013
    Perhaps I should have remove the battery's ground to reset all values in the ECU, so it will recalibrate the new MAF sensor.

    This sensor, if dirty or faulty, can cause a lot of performance problems, not to mention failing SMOG checks.

    Make sure the intake air filter is properly seated and sealed off from dust. Spray clean the Platinum sensor wire with non-residue BRAKE CLEANERS or CONTACT CLEANER, NOT CARBURETOR/ FUEL INJECTOR CLEANERS WHICH has LUBRICANTS.
  • 2002GTS 212K leaks about half quart every 15K miles. Not bad but I hate leaks.

    The back side of the oil pan is all wet. So took the oil pan off and resealed with TOYOTA's FORM in PLACE GASKET which is a tube of black RTV.

    Engine looked dry in the garage but after driving , still leaked same place. So suspected the RTV was not dispensed and sealed properly. Removed the oil pan and redid the gasket.

    Oil pan's seal looked good and dry. But still leaked in same place. Damn. Washed the engine with degreaser and hosed down with high pressure hose. Found the leak on the back side of engine, passenger side, under the valve cover, right next to the belt tensioner strut. Damn.

    The leak is at the Timing chain tensioner which is bolted onto the engine block with an oval plate and 2x 10 mm bolts. Took it out, clean mating surfaces of all oil with Acetone and regasket with Toy's black RTV. Leak is dead.
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