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Toyota Celica (Hatchbacks / All Years)

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Comments

  • denniswadedenniswade Posts: 362
    definitely helps on the high end. A friend of mine has developed an elegantly simple, inexpensive CAI for the Corolla, but hasn't done anything with the Celica yet.

    You might try ELPrototypes in Azusa, CA.
  • neoburstneoburst Posts: 1
    Hi, I am thinking about purchasing a 2001 Celica GT-S 6 Speed Manual Transmission, and I have an important question...

    I've read on other fourms that many people misshift, thus messing up the tranny. Although the dealer will fix this once within warranty, is it something to be very concerned about? I've also heard the B&M/TRD shortshifter's can reduce the risk of a misshift. Is this true and to what extent?

    Thanks in Advance.
  • denniswadedenniswade Posts: 362
    I've never had any trouble with the shifter, but I'm used to shifting smoothly and gently -- unlike some Americans who think you're supposed to slam the thing into every gear like a hemi Cuda.

    The gates are narrow, so if you muscle the shifter you can lose your feel for where the shifter is and pick the wrong gear. This is a meathead move that deserves the damage it inflicts.

    The short shifter is well worth the money.
  • alex18talex18t Posts: 117
    if you miss a shift you can do damage to the engine aswell as the trans. the engine damage is not as easily detected or repaired in some cases when the damage is subtle and even with a new car, the engine may never be the same again. and for cryin' out loud! do not let your best friend do 1/4 mile runs in your car just because he owns a manual camaro or integra or whatever. i know of a few stories and i know someone personally who lost his M3 because he let someone borrow it and they went from 3rd - 2nd while merging.

    a good thing to steer clear of is a GTS with a low price and Bold letters that say "15k miles Brand new transmission!" that is not a car you want in your driveway.

    that being said. i still think you gotta be a meathead to blow up your engine like that. and it can happen in any manual with a meathead driving.
    peace.
  • oneibtoneibt Posts: 12
    Hi, am new to this. I've been doing some car shopping, with the Celica GT being my front runner right now. I test drove a GT with the cruise/power package and all weather package. The dealer gave me a bottom line quote of 16,200. Does this sound good?
  • alex18talex18t Posts: 117
    Let's put it this way. I paid 22k out the door with those packages.

    Hope that answers your question.
    peace.
  • hbarkhbark Posts: 26
    Onebit --

    Once you figure out the invoice price on the car/configuration you're looking at, using Edmunds, or Kelly, whatever... you'll be able to see if that's a good price.

    Rule of thumb is, you shouldn't pay more than 2 - 4% over that invoice.
  • coxmw00coxmw00 Posts: 1
    oneibt - $16,200 is extremely low. With that package, the invoice is $17,007 (I just bought one with the UP and AW packages a week ago and paid $17,400). I do not see how they are selling it for that much under invoice. What part of the country are you in? I am in the midwest and I know the invoices can vary depending on location. I would say that you are getting a sweet deal any way you look at it.
  • oneibtoneibt Posts: 12
    coxmw00- I checked back with the dealer. The price is actually 16,731. Originally, the dealer thought there was a 750 dollar cash incentive. Turns out this was only for the 00 model. Still sound like a good deal though.
  • jk111jk111 Posts: 125
    well, it is ok if you misshift, just don't misshift when you are at 4th gear running at 7k rpm. The engine damage people talk about is downshifting from 5th to 2nd gear when they are at peak rpm. Resulting in rpm spike to something like 13k rpm! They should come out with a 2nd gear gate block to prevent this.
  • guitarzanguitarzan Posts: 632
    Perhaps a stronger spring to 2nd would be perfect?
  • alex18talex18t Posts: 117
    will TRD pads warp my rotors? i just saw how a replacement set of rotors for a 98 corolla is 77 dollars each. that's a lot of money. someone told me that the carbon metalic pads are a great way to destroy a set of rotors. this was a little unsettling to me because i have a set being shipped to me as we speak. i hope i didnt just make a $200 commitment by spending 50 dollars on some pads. I'm not sure how hot these pads get. i mean i dont plan on mashing the brakes at 110 mph, but will normal spirited driving warp the rotors? anyone have any experience with this? i'll keep you posted on how these pads improve braking if at all. they should arrive this week and i'll have them on maybe friday or next monday. unless i get some more bad news replies.

    also, will brembo cross drilled rotors hold up to the heat better than oem rotors? even though i know the rotors wont help distance much will they last longer? thanks for your help.
  • 1kgwxman1kgwxman Posts: 9
    I'm ready to purchase a 2001 Celica GT.
    After hitting the web hard, I went to a couple of dealers to get their prices. So far, carsdirect.com is still cheaper by $200-$300 dollars. (UP,CK,AW,CF,RF,SR)

    The only local dealer in town did provide a lead to help me sell my old '89 Corolla LE.

    However, now that same sales person is indignant that despite him being $300 above mean TMV on Edmunds and Kelly's Blue Book, I'm still asking him to go lower, or at least counter the other dealer.
    (He's more than 5% above invoice.)

    He says it's like comparing apples to oranges and that "service" is where it's at, suggesting I'll get better service and perks by buying from him and servicing the vehicle in town, as opposed to buying from someone else.

    I'm going to try one more time to get either or both dealers to lower their offers to at least the "no hassle" carsdirect price. Anybody buy from this website? I hear you pick-up your car from a local dealer anyway.

    Am I going about this the right way? Do I owe the local sales person anything for the lead that led to the sale of my old car? (It's a difference of $300.)

    What about the 15" alloy wheels? I've thought about just getting the steel stock rims/tires and purchasing custom 16" rims for the summer, and re-fitting the stock 15" wheels with snow tires for our Michigan winters. Anyone get ABS on their Celica? Worth it?

    Are the Kumho ECSTA Supra 712's any good?
    (205/50/16)

    The local dealer wasn't thrilled I was pursuing this option. He said most Celicas are coming with the 15" alloy wheels and that it would take 3-4 months to special order a vehicle from Japan.

    The other dealer said if they had another car on the lot with the stock wheels, they could swap them.

    Anybody purchase the mesh grill for the front intake?

    Thoughts and comments are greatly appreciated.
  • denniswadedenniswade Posts: 362
    Let's take em one at a time....

    Screw the saleman -- he has nothing to do with the service operation, and it's stupid of him to suggest that if you don't buy from him you'll get lousy service. I'd take that up with the service manager at the dealership he works for! Believe me, Toyota dealerships make plenty enough on service they don't worry about where you bought the car. On the other hand, I wouldn't drive into the service department with a license plate holder that has another dealer's name on it.

    Getting the stock wheels for winter and buying your own 16 inchers is a great idea, and exactly what I would do if I still lived in Michigan. The Kumhos are great tires, and an unbelievable value.

    The mesh is a question of taste and style -- I like it, but it's up to you what you do with your car to customize it. There's already a lot of stuff out there for the car, and more on the way.

    Have fun, drive a good deal and we'll see you on the turnpike!
  • 1kgwxman1kgwxman Posts: 9
    Thanks for the quick response and ideas, Dennis!

    Where did you purchase your mesh grill?
    I've seen a few on e-bay. I think black will go nicely with the spectra blue mica and black front-end mask.
  • alex18talex18t Posts: 117
    i did my grill myself. just buy some wire mesh, cut it paint it and install it yourself. click on this link for the instructions, http://www.phewl.com/how-to/default2.asp?id=33 . if you buy that thing from e bay all it is is precut for you but you still have to get under the car and get dirty and do it all yourself. i did my grill, painted it with black primer and it's barely visable but it keeps the radiator safe. took me an hour, all you need is some wire cutters a 10mm wrench and a jack and car stands. total cost for me was $5.86 for 5 feet by 2 feet of wire. good luck with your purchase.
  • 1kgwxman1kgwxman Posts: 9
    Thanks for the tip, Alex. Looks like a fun project to do.
  • oneibtoneibt Posts: 12
    kgwxman - I just picked up my new GT yesterday. I got it with the aw and up option packages and paid 16,731, which is about 300 under invoice. Sounds to me like your salesman is an a-hole. The way I worked it was to tell the salesman at each dealership to give me the absolute bottom line price to shop with. They resisted at first, (wanted me to give a price) but when I made it clear how I was going to do things, they came around.
    By the way, just a personal opinion. I think the front end looks better without the mask.
    Anyway, good luck. So far I love mine, but it's killing me to keep my foot out of it while I get through break-in.
  • 1kgwxman1kgwxman Posts: 9
    Oneibt, you got a great deal paying under invoice.
    I'm suprised that I haven't even gotten offers below what I can
    purchase a vehicle for on-line, at carsdirect.

    Seems someone wants a higher commission.
    I'll get down to business this week. Maybe waving a check in front of
    the sales people will get some action.

    Now, if those lower interest rates would just tricke down to my loan!
  • dq1dq1 Posts: 44
    is better: TRD or K&N? I've checked out prices online ($48 for TRD and $38 for K&N). I have an '01 GT and am not really looking to get any performance increase. I'm more concerned about getting something that filters better than paper so that I get the most life out of the engine. Thanks.
  • alex18talex18t Posts: 117
    the only reason is that it's a 1 million mile filter. the only on you will ever have to buy. not sure but i doubt TRD can boast that. also $38 for the K&N sounds like the old one, part number 33-2041 . there is a new one that has modifications to make it easier to install, part# 33-2041-1 should cost about $45. i made sure i got the newer one for a few bucks more.
  • 00gts00gts Posts: 42
    The TRD is a K&N filter, just with TRD written on it. Go with whatever is cheaper.
  • jk111jk111 Posts: 125
    Just went to the new york auto show last sat. and saw a GTS with the new aggressive body kit (evo 7 spoilers and body kits.) Went to carsdirect.com and found out that it cost 1600 bucks to get that! I can not see thru the back due to the enormous high stance of the spoiler, I think I will get a gts without any spoiler..
  • alex18talex18t Posts: 117
    the celica might even look better without the spoiler. and my GT will never really go fast enough to use the downforce. i think maybe 16 inch wheels and no spoiler and a turbocharger (i wish) and the celica would be like a little edgy front drive porche :)
  • bcloughbclough Posts: 97
    How big is the newer spoiler? The old one bisected the rear view out the back. Absolutely horrible. I suppose if you had to have a spoiler it would be better if it were huge and high, so that you could see out from under it!

    Brenda
  • gambit293gambit293 Posts: 406
    The celica's rear spoiler does have some virtues.

    It has a tendency to block headlights of tailgating cars, especially SUVs. This is useful at night, although during the day, it has the effect of masking tailgating cars, making it difficult to tell what kind of car it is.
  • sergeissergeis Posts: 134
    Toyota specifies 27/34 mpg for city/highway (GT auto). I can easily get 34-35 on interstate, but I never had 27 in city, the best was slightly above 25 mpg. And I mean real city - no interstates, just small city with a lot of stop signs and traffic lights, with most of the streets being 25-35 mph.
    I have even driven full tank with as slow acceleration/decelaration I could manage, and this is really boring, just wanted to test if 27 is a real number (I know a lot of you can get 27, but in most cases that is not just city driving).
    Now, the celica's manual sais that this model does so called "engine braking" whenever you release the pedal (it states that it is advantage, my Ford does not do that). So, even if you go downhill you have to keep pedal slightly down burning gas (suxxx!)
    Last two weeks I was driving so that whenever I released the accelerator pedal (before stops, or going downhill), I also switched to neutral. Occasionally, I still punched it to the bottom. In spite of that I got 30 mpg city-only driving! This is about 20% in efficiency gain. My guess is that ~30-50% of total time I was rolling in neutral. I don't know if it that constant shifting is bad for auto, the switching is very smooth, but you have to depress pedal slightly when you shift from neutral back to drive, otherwise you will feel this slight "engine braking".
  • tmundartmundar Posts: 70
    Engine Braking does not use any more gasoline than idling. I believe that the accelerator in the Celica has a physical connection to the throttle, so whether you are in gear or not, you use the same amount of gas if your foot is off the gas pedal. The difference is that when in gear, the engine slows you down (or maybe that was your point). :)

    So the Celica AT tries to figure out when you need engine braking? There is another reason why I love manual transmissions. When I need engine braking, I have engine braking, and when I don't, I shift into the appropriate gear. Engine braking can be a wonderful thing. I rarely ever have to use my brakes (unless traffic is stopping, obviously). :)

    Tom

    P.S. I never get above the city milage on any of my cars. It is the price I pay to enjoy my drive.
  • sergeissergeis Posts: 134
    You are right, engine braking does not use more gas (that would be real stupid) than idling. But you need to apply gas simply to keep running at constant speed, even if it is down the hill. And you are wrong - there are 2 idling regimes for modern AT (and Celica is no exception) - in gear, and in neutral. The difference in gas consumption seems to be ~30% for Celica. And here is why:
    When you you are standing still with brakes applied, computer keeps rpm at ~700, this is not some old car with no rpm feedback. Now, switch to neutral and rpm immediately spikes to ~1000 for a second, and then it goes back to 700 again. These extra 300 rpm (which translates into ~5-10 hp) keep constantly pulling your car. If you assume that gas/rpm dependence for neutral is linear (which is close to reality), it gives you >30% saving.
    Next, when you are going, for example, at 40 mph down a slight slope, the engine runs at ~1600 rpm. Switch to neutral and it drops to <1000 rpm. To avoid engine braking you have to "compensate", i.e. supply enough gas to keep it running at 1600 rpm - which is >30% of extra gas (10-20 hp). If you don't do that the car will take this 10-20hp from your car momentum, resulting in what you call "engine braking". Similarily, if there is no slope your car will slow down much faster if in gear.
    The Celica AT has some brains, but I doubt there are any for engine braking. It is simply the Toyota's design of AT which does not let wheels run faster than the engine.
    To save gas, I simply switch to neutral whenever aproaching stop, so that most of the time in short runs between stop signs or traffic lights I am in neutral.
  • tmundartmundar Posts: 70
    All AT cars will give you some engine braking, it is just that whenever you lift off of the accelerator, the AT will shift into its highest (overdrive) gear, so that the engine braking has a minimal effect. I was assuming that when the Celica AT has an engine braking feature that means that the AT holds a lower gear to slow down a car on a hill. Usually on a hill, you want engine braking so that you do not have to ride the brakes in order to keep a reasonable speed down the hill.

    Is the Celica's AT not shifting into overdrive, or is its highest gear ratio too short? Maybe, due to the high compression ratio, the Celica supplies more engine braking then the average car.

    Also, the EPA numbers are calculated in a laboratory, so, while they try to duplicate the rigors of real life, it is just an estimation. Maybe your city driving requires more stops and starts than the laboratory city does.

    Tom
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