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Mazda 323



  • as i mentioned earlier my motor was at 300k miles and worked just fine till it died.. i changed it and with the newer motor i am not getting a sprak from the distributor.. i read that it is a common problem with these cars.. wuts wrong with my distributor, or if its dead as well and need to replace it..
  • clipse1130clipse1130 Posts: 7
    your car could be off by a couple or teeth.. check you ignition distributor timing.. if it off timing since your already there re-check the water seal and itself for any cracks or so..
  • clipse1130clipse1130 Posts: 7
    do u want to install a rpm gauge.. thats wut i did and its just fine.. umm more or less get use to how your motor sounds and feels like at speeds to get an idea to shift.. (i can send you pics on the rpm installation and ideas where to put it..) lol
  • clipse1130clipse1130 Posts: 7
    if its the gtx model(awd :) ) then you can go with a rotary motor or the awd turbo dohc motor.. If its the sohc motor you have the 1.6L engine or you can swap it out to put in the dohc fwd motor..
  • ped2ped2 Posts: 1
    does anyone know were the pollen filters are on the Mazda 323 because i havn't a clue.
  • mitchicoimitchicoi Posts: 4
    Im just new here.Got 94' 323..Exterior is very good and well maintained but aleady have made some renovations over the enigine,i have my clutch change(together w/ all the necessary parts)Now its running good.I only got some problems though,,Whenever i start the car its shaky..Ive tried having the Rpm adjusted but it stil does.And also whenever i tried to step on the clutch it the car shakes,so i have to add some gas,,i dont know what could be the problem.same thing happens everytime i switch on my lights.Car get shaky.It is maybe on the electrical wirings or something?Can you please help me figure out this one :confuse:
  • kujhackujhac Posts: 14
    Bad coil maybe? Obviously you're not getting a strong enough spark at one of the plugs for some reason. Maybe a bad injector?

    Might check your transmission mount too. The one on my '88 went bad and it shakes like crazy at idle.
  • mitchicoimitchicoi Posts: 4
    hello there,
    Im having problems with my gauges light at the moment,they are so dark seems it has no light bulb at all!already have changed the bulb but theres no is about the wirings or maybe i just have to tear the gauges part out into pieces to clean it :P
  • kujhackujhac Posts: 14
    What does it do when you turn the knob to change the lightness/darkness intensity of the dash lights?
  • mitchicoimitchicoi Posts: 4
    nothing happens!adjusted it to the brightest level.still the same
  • mitchicoimitchicoi Posts: 4
    My temperature is somewhat sometimes go up half and a bit more then after a while goes down again....ive already changed my aux fan,made it bigger,my temp sensor,thermostat gone already,nothings wrong with radiator either....ive also noticed that this happens when the weather is this normal or should i look into more serious problems???does it have any connection with my compressor?please help me figure out this puzzle :cry:
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,854
    Are you saying the temp gauge is fluctuating up and down? Does this describe the behavior?... the gauge will look like it's reading normal operating temp and then suddenly drop down, then come back up to looking normal, and it never goes up above the normal operating temp?

    I had something similar happen on a vehicle about 6 months ago. Nothing was wrong with thermostats, radiator, etc. So it HAD to be a problem with the gauge itself or the connections leading to the gauge. Turned out there was a cracked electrical connector on the back of the gauge that would make or break the connection depending how the car was moving. When the car was cold, it would seem to operate just fine with the needle slowly moving up as the car warmed up. Once the engine reached operating temp, the bouncing needle would start to show up. The needle would never indicate a higher than normal operating temp, so I was pretty sure it wasn't a cooling system problem. My guess is that the wires leading to the gauge would become a bit more flexible once the engine compartment heated up and the movement of the car (especially when accelerating or decelerating) would basically wiggle the wires and make or break the connection, causing the needle to suddenly drop and then just as suddenly come back up to show a correct reading.

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  • kujhackujhac Posts: 14
    Obviously, there's no current getting to the bulb. Time to bring out the multi-meter.
  • 91323vic91323vic Posts: 18
    o kay my suggestion is to dismantle the intended guage at the dash, as a static dianosis. run the vehicle until flutuation in the guage appears obviously it wont be items mentioned that you pointed out. so it would be three of the following 1connectors on your harness 2 possibly wiring harness 3 the guages contact itself on the dash card . my remedy acquire a guage from wreckers do a meter test on it if you wish the best way is to run a test try a battery hotwire with a five amp breaker on the guage secondly run a light meter on active guage harness if the light flutuates in the same mannnerit`s along your harness wriggle them . if your also refering to the motor smells hot with the guage sensation this could very well be your cut in switch which operates in four cyclinders under a temperature rating the temperate makes it to its kickin point an operates the thermal fans to adjust the motor working temperature i have a very quick solution permently hotwire a ten amp breaker wire from your thermal fans to ignition main this operates fan as soon as key is turned
  • glowplugzglowplugz Posts: 5
    Both door locks on my trusty hatchback are failing. The driver's side one works but not well, and the passenger side lock is frozen. Apparently what happens is that the little internal sliding "cover" inside the lock comes loose & falls down into the mechanism, jamming the lock.

    I wonder if it's possible to disassemble the lock mechanism and remove the cover piece. Has anyone done this? I don't think I want junkyard locks - even if they happened to have the keys, I don't think used locks would last very long. I'm willing to buy new ones but can't find a "keyed alike" pair anywhere (I don't want a different key for each door).
  • There are new door locks possibly still available at O'Reilly auto parts. While you are replacing them, spray the entire latch, linkage assembly with lubricant spray to keep it all working well. They come in pairs. I recall them being under the HELP line. If you get dumb looks from the counter help, you may have to ask to see the catalog if they have one. A lot of parts houses say stuff is not available, but it is as a special order. Another source may be a phone call to

    We are going to have to install a new third set soon into ours at 300K. They are getting sloppy. Also an 89 323.

    Generally these lock assemblies are not rebuildable.
  • glowplugzglowplugz Posts: 5
    Thanks! ...I'll check into those sources :)
  • listerinelisterine Posts: 17
    Could sure use some help from someone more knowledgeable than I: Car in question is a 1989 Mercury Tracer, but these have a Mazda 323 engine. It overheated, and I'm pretty sure the head gasket blew. (Milkshake oil, water drip from exhaust, etc.) I decided to try liquid glass on the head gasket - specifically, "Bar's Leaks Head Gasket Repair" - but I'm still having problems.

    I should mention the steps I've taken so far (some of which were just for maintenance):
    - Replaced the thermostat.
    - Back-flushed the cooling system.
    - Flushed the heater core separately.
    - Replaced the radiator cap.
    - (And as I said, added liquid glass.)

    What's different now:
    The good:
    - It starts and runs better.
    - There's no more sign of coolant in the oil, nor oil in the coolant.
    The bad:
    - Smoke is still sputtering out of the front of the engine in some spots, which I take to be unsealed cracks at the head gasket.
    - The heater isn't producing hot air.
    - The coolant overflow reservoir still bubbles (presumably from exhaust gas.)

    I'm wondering now if the water pump is bad, and that maybe the liquid glass can't fully circulate to where it can seal the cracks. The radiator hoses stiffen up when the engine is running, which I would have thought meant that there's pressure and that the coolant is being pumped through the system. Except that the top radiator hose gets warm/hot while the bottom hose never really does… I'd rather not replace anything else without knowing that I've nailed down the cause though. Any suggestions?

    Thanks much in advance.
  • kujhackujhac Posts: 14
    You're simply going to have to get the head gasket replaced and the head checked for warping. Hopefully the head isn't cracked but most likely it is.
  • Hmmm, you have listed some still not good symptoms. Yes, bubbles in coolant is an indication of exhaust leak into coolant. This is just the beginning of headaches.

    So education time first.

    As an engine ages, the round cylinder wears into an egg shape. One side from the power stroke, the other from compression stroke. When you over heat the block, that shape also distorts. I suspect over time, you will find oil usage/leakage to be up especially over time. Now add the uncertain possibility of something else cracking down the road, which does happen in such cases. You have an engine with an uncertain potential of total failure down the road.

    When it comes to rebuilding such an engine, the head is usually scrapped because there is only the dye method of finding cracks which is so limited in confirming results. The block can be magnafluxed to look for such small cracks, but at 20 years of age, it would be scrapped also, because of cost of labor. That brings down to a total engine replacement.

    So, in order to really determine what you have would be a total hit and miss mission with the prospects of total failure down the road.

    Now to add to the problems besides parts availability. The engine design itself is such that, ignore one problem you get a snowball effect of damage. For example, ignore the timing belt and it snapped, there went the entire engine with the pistons hitting the valves bending them. It took very little to force this engine very quickly to the scrap pile.

    Now for the positive. If you have a 5 speed standard or 4 speed, this car could still be worth rebuilding. An auto, I would not waste my time. Ours is a 89 323, coming up on 300K miles. The first engine crank broke at 138K which we decided to scrap it for a new crate engine. Still a top performer in the stable after that decision right down to the new a/c put in a few years back. It comes with the cost of sticking to a good pm schedule and a careful eye on it that became knowlegable of it over 10 years.

    Best to you, whatever your decision. You may wish to review past posts on this engine before doing anything. Better to be informed before spending your money. One trouble spot in its history has been breaking crankshafts, the other has been the distributor. Use the search engine in this forum to gain more info on it. Search distributor then crankshaft.

    On the other hand, should you decide to replace this car, take a few walks in the junk yard and look at cars that are not wrecked. Note the age and mileage it comes in at. Now a days, if it does not make at least 200K on the odometer, it is a piece of junk before it gets in the yard. One such brand that makes 20 years and 200K plus very consistly is Toyota. I have an 86 Tercel in service still. Most of them have been junked.
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