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Mazda 323



  • 210K on a 323 - cool! I have 130K on my 323(No a/c, has a manual drive, baught for $1000 in 1997 at 95K miles) and thought enough is enough (though the car is alright except clutch probably slips a bit). Anyway, I went out and baught a mercedes thinking I earned it for driving this "shopping cart with engine" for 5 years! But you guys reporting 200K plus on this little trouper are spoiling my party ;-)
  • Yea I have a 1991 323. I bought it from my dad last yea at 180k, he bought it new. Now its at 211k, I swear these cars just keep going. I have noticed the clutch slipping, same as with Johnbigboote. Other than that its running good considering the abuse, having 4 kids learn to drive a stick on it can't help too much. I'm not really expecting it to last much more after this winter. I've been putting off replacing the timing belt for 10k or so, I'm hoping it will hold together a few more months.
  • mx5mx5 Posts: 2
    We bought our daughter a '94 323 2 years ago. Had 107,000 kms., now has 152,000. Mostly normal maintenance (brakes, exhaust, plugs etc.) but also had to replace the distributor (~$400). Strut replacement wasn't cheap but really tightened the handling.
    We just put snow tires mounted on Miata rims on the car. Looks great.
  • I'm just posting this out there to see if anyone has any information about the next generation of 323(94-98 323F), this car does not get imported to the USA. i saw it in Bermuda when i went on vacation there but could never seem to find any info about this car. i know one thing though this car has much more style then the old 323 ever could have. its also a Four door. if anyone has anything, let me know....thanks -AKD
  • lawman1967lawman1967 Posts: 314
    I miss my 94 323 Hatchback. Despite the automatic, it was the best car I've ever had. Not the nicest, but certainly the best.
  • I'm considering buying a 1990 323 hatchback without air conditioning. How difficult and expensive would it be to add to this car. Should I try to find a factory unit at a wrecking yard, or take the car to an aftermarket air conditioning shop?
  • I have a '94 323 with 200,000 kms on it. The heat hardly works, last winter I froze!! It also needs around 1,700 Canadian dollars to fix a bunch of leaks, brakes, and broken axle. My brother says the dealer is trying to rip me off so I might take it to a private repair shop so it may not cost as much as 1,700. Resale is not much it has a couple dents.

    Should I get rid of it?? Or is it worth keeping??
  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586
    I would not fix it - not for anything more than $400 - the car has 200K kms on it and it won't last forever (although if you fix it it could very well run to 250-280Kms). Resale is $1500 - $2500 max. However, whatever ppl say here, it ALL depends on your financial situation - don;t get a new car if you can't afford it. 48mths is a LONG commitment to $500+/mth (car+ins)

    If you have some spare change (like $20-25K CAD), you can get a new PRO LX/ES for 48mths/0% interest and get a great new car. The PRO is turning into the 3 next year so I think dealers will be glad to sell you one for a good price.

    If you can't you gotta look at used cars...

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  • Just thought I would chime in here mine has 163,000 and is still going strong. Man these baby's are built!
  • It was the great memories from my dead-reliable 1994 323 automatic that led to my purchase last week of a brand-new 2003 Protege DX automatic. I wish they still had the 1.6 for the better fuel economy, but I'm really enjoying the poewr of the 2.0. Of course, the handling is phenominal and the car seems just as well put together as my old 323 was. I really hope it stays that way.
  • 323323 Posts: 1
    My 1992 Mazda 323 AT has a transmission problem. It lasted 10 months with gentle prodding at start-up when it wasn't driven for a day or two. Now, after I pushed a bit harder, it wouldn't move at all and the Hold light starts flashing after a few seconds in gear. The manual suggests it could be just an electrical problem. Switching gears does not produce any noise or knocks. It seems like it's stuck somewhere. I'm afraid to change fluid as it is not recommended after it gets old and dirty. Also, the fluid was and still is overfilled. It could be solenoid. Every mechanic I tried sees $$ signs when a woman walks in so they all say I need to replace it, but here these cars are not in demand and it's not worth the expense. It has 150K and some minor body damage. Any advice? Any inexpensive trick to get it moving again? I hate to trash my second 323 in less than a year (the first was destroyed in a hit-and-run)Thanks
  • Haven't gotten through reading all posts yet but wanted to say hi, just joined. Have a 92 323SE with 170,000 miles on it and it's still going every single time...never failed even when I accidently flooded the engine with high pressure water not knowing the distributor cap was cracked. My only clue was the car began to sputter a bit after about 5 miles of driving flooded. When I went to replace it...I found the wiring and all that good stuff completely submerged in water...and the thing was still running!!! I'm sold!!! It needs some serious tlc, so I'm hoping to learn from you all etc. as we go along. I'm also proud to say that at 170,000 miles (all original engine parts) and in bad bad need of a tune up my 323 still takes me from my hometown to Seattle WA (about a hour and half drive) and is reliable enough that I use it to deliver animal blood from our blood bank to a laboratory and critical care in Seattle...and by the way...I'm still getting 30 miles to the gallon on the freeway! Thanks Mazda. wish they still made em'
  • HI,
    I am a happy owner of 1992 Mazda 323 SE w/Auto box. I am really happy with it as it handles like no other econo-box out there - just like a mini go-kart.

    I have one big problem with it - the overdrive on automatic tranny is triggered by a temperature sensor - during cold Canadian winters it takes time for the car to warm up fully and sometimes travelling on the highway the overdrive does not kick in for a while (this causes very high rpm and poor mileage).
    Is there a way to override this temperature triggering sensor for the overdrive - I would like to make it so from the time I start the car the overdrive will work.

    Please help, thank you.
  • plittleplittle Posts: 1
    you know you might not even need to replace the clutch because some times if oil or something gets on the clutch disc or anything then it will cause it to slip also so you should take it apart and see first before you spend money on a new one but also if the clutch disk is wore out you will have to replace it anyways and if has never been replaced before. now would be a good time. oh and 210 000 ks good work.
  • nikgreynikgrey Posts: 1
    I have a 1989 323 1.8 Gti - 75000 miles.

    My combination Switch needs attention, when I indicate left (with lights on) my full beam is activated - I find that this annoys other road users.
    Also (this problem has been present for many years) when trying to turn the lights off I find that I need to indicate right in order to do this.

    Obviously the switch is getting old, I have had a quote from a Mazda dealer - £125.00
    Before I take the plunge and purchase this new switch I think it is worth asking forum viewers if there is any point in inspecting the switch and looking for any obvious problems which I will be able to repair myself..
    The switch seems fairly easy to remove, but I haven't attempted to take the actual switch apart yet..

    Any help would be appreciated, Thanks in advance.
  • hi3cmzhi3cmz Posts: 1
    Hi, Here in Taiwan we still see lots of Ford Laser (which is Mazda 323) runing, they are taxi here.. and your combination switch might be cheaper, if you want to provide a picture of your steeling wheel maybe I can ask my dealer for pricing.

    BTW, I drive a 1992 Ford Laser GLX 1.6, AUTO tranny, gas millage is impresive, 14 km/litre in heavy asia city traffic, my tranny shifting is kicking from 1 to 2 gear, so I am going to do a rework on hope plate soon.
  • Hi! I have a 1990 323 LX sedan with manual steering. I wonder if its possible to install power steering if I'm able to find (used) parts anywhere. Which parts are needed, which other models have the necessary parts, is it necessary to change the steering gear, etc? I realize that its probably money out the window, I'm just interested in what it takes :)
  • baz666baz666 Posts: 3
    I own a 1991 323 with the 1.5 litre engine and believe it or not it's got 375,000kms on it. So yes, it's a bit beat up but the little bugger starts and goes everyday. The problem I'm having is that the heater fan started cutting out once in a while then one day the wipers stopped working, both the front and rear wipers. Now I can't get the wipers or the heater fan to work. I've changed fuses, taken the dash off and looked for split wires or similar and can find nothing. I've heard people on this forum mention a "combination switch". Could this be the cause of my problem or is it something else?
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