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Mazda 323

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  • this was a long time ago i just saw it so i dont know you may have goten it fixed. My 1991 mazda 323 was doing the same thing i thought it was the ball joints but i had to get the front axel replaced.
  • I bought my 1991 Mazda 323 hatchback 5 speed and put about $275 in it in the flex hose and the front axel it has 122000 miles and is running strong. If there is anybody questiiong wether this is a car to put money into the answer is yes it is worth it.
  • sschmidsschmid Posts: 28
    Anyone know of a salvage yard that may have a 92 323 in it. I need the driver side (side) black plastic windshield moulding and a fuel guage sending unit. I have been unable to locate these parts. Thanks S. Schmid
  • I have an '88 323, about 150k miles. Started driving home a couple of nights ago, cold and rainy. The wipers started running slowly, the charge light was on dimly. The lights got dimmer and the radio shut itself off. Parked it and got a ride home. Next day, started it up and found the battery only reading 11.5 volts. Pulled the alternator and took it to the shop. They verified it was bad. Bought a rebuilt one and put it on. Started it up and had 13.5 volts at the battery. Drove it about an hour, it got dark and noticed the lights getting dim again. Pulled over and put a meter on the battery, only 10.5 volts with the engine running. Rechecked all connections, everything tight, but no output from the alternator. Next day, pulled it off and took it back to the store where I bought it. They put it on the bench and it worked okay, I witnessed it. Took it back and put it on the car, same thing as before. Continuity checked all wiring, fuses, grounds,everything okay. Put in a known good battery, no change. This can't be this difficult, but obviously I'm missing something. Any ideas out there?
  • i bought a 1990 4 dr done 246000 km's that wasn't running right(was mis-firing). The original owner and I thought it may be a cracked piston or possibly head problems. We took the head off and checked pistons and bore for damage. The bore was in amazing condition for such high km's with no visible cracks. I took the head into a head machining shop. they said the head looked to be in great condition. any ideas of what this may be? anything would be appreciated
  • The mis firing is probably a result of oxygen sesor or crank sensor or most likely you have a piece of crap PCM I had the same problem and scrapped the car because it was too hard to fix could be the Distributor but that i9s unlikely they either work or don't work.
  • I have an 89 and am having the exact same issue. I have replaced the battery and alternator. I have also checked all the wiring that I can see. I was thinking possibly Voltage regulator. If you have had any luck please give me a holler and I will let you know if I find anything.
  • You may have a problem with the leeds. Is it a twin cam?
  • sorry ignore that last post
  • I have exactly the same problem with my automatic 86 Mazda 323 , the mechanic (young) is not sure what to do next Thinks it might be the carby but feels if we get one from the wreckers it might be just as bad. Did you get yours sorted out>
  • Hi everyone!
    I have a '94 323 hatchback SOHC 1.6L
    It was in good condition and had lots of work done, was running fine until it sat outside for 10 months. Now the starter cranks and cranks but the enginer will not start.

    -I replaced the battery, lots of power now
    -I ran out the old fuel and got new fuel coming out of the fuel line to the injection manifold
    -the spark plugs and wires seem fine
    -with a spark plug out, puffs of aerosol fuel come out, so the injectors seem ok

    Sparks from the ignition coil seemed "ok" maybe weak. Checked at the spark plugs but the sparks were sporadic and barely visible, maybe 1 out of 10 would actually happen. I replaced the dist. cap and now I see a spark every time at the plugs. I think it might be that the ignition coil got damaged internally by water and ice. I checked resistance across the primary step of the ignition coil and measured only 0.001 ohms instead of the suggest approx 0.75 ohms.

    Do I need a new ignition coil? Is there some other problem maybe like the ignitor module?

    ----
    DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR:
    I tried to get a new rotor for the distributor but I have had a HECK of a time finding the right one! I bought 2 kinds of aftermarket ones that were 80 thou too small in the female end where the shaft head from the distributor attaches to the rotor. Someone at partsource and the mazda dealership had heard of this problem before and said I needed the original park from mazda, not an aftermarket. I picked up the part from mazda, it's ALMOST big enough but still the wrong one. Two millwrights tried and both insisted it truly is not big enough and not the right one, so it's not a matter of trying harder or knowing how to put a rotor back on. Perhaps there is an aftermarket distributor on? If so, how can I find the right rotor? I can see a mitsubishi symbol on the distributor and T152 on it, there is a mitsubishi symbol on the rotor I got from the mazda dealer and again some kind of similar T### code on it. How can I get ahold of the right rotor?? the people at the dealership and at the garage seem totally confused about why it won't fit.

    Thanks a lot to anyone who can help me with this. :confuse: :sick:
  • Hi Folks,

    Just comin home this evening the wipers on my 1995 Mazda 323 stopped working....they were going fine then they stopped moving mid cycle (i.e. in the middle of the windscreen). I'm guessing it is just a loose connection somewhere cause I can hear what sounds like the wiper motor moving against what ever connects it to the wipers themselves. Anyone experience this before? Any ideas exactly what I need to do to fix this would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    PeteC2
  • I am trying to get my daughter's 1988 Mercury Tracer run. The engine is the same as or very similar to the '87-'88 Mazda 323. We have the repair manual for the vehicle and according to the manual, it should be running like a top. I have torn the engine apart and put it back together. No matter what I do, while the engine will crank, it won't start. When the throttle is in the idle position, the injectors do not appear to be spraying the fuel into the cylinder and I believe it should be. Has anyone else ever had this problem with an '87 or '88 Mazda 323. I could use eome usggestions on how to get the car running. :confuse: :mad:
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,871
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  • 323fan323fan Posts: 2
    ok, a few months bak i purchased my first car! it is a 1989 mazda 323 4 speed 1.6 liter in good shape of course 4 its age...and i love it!!! I have learned alot ab my spunky little car, but need 2 learn more. Anyway, it does have 2 problems i would like 2 take care of! the 1st problem i have is the rough idle at warmer temps, it idles perfect until i make my way down the road a few miles and [non-permissible content removed] 2 a red light... while sitting there at a dead stop it will idle really low, way lower than normal and sumtimes even die!!! My second problem is when my car uses 1/4 a tank of gas, it is as if i run out of gas, but the fuel light does not come on! I no the tank is full bc at tha gas station the gas pump stops pumping fuel when my tank is full as with any other car! I do not no the solution 4 either problem, so any help or advice would b greatly appreciated!!! Thanks!
  • sschmidsschmid Posts: 28
    You probably have the same problem my son has which is a bad fuel sending unit. It is pretty easy to replace but impossible to find. My son gave up about a year ago and just resets his tripometer each time he fills and refills at 300 miles. If you ever do find one maybe at a junk yard please post it as we can't find one of these at a junkyard. we need a drivers windshield moulding as well!
  • 323fan323fan Posts: 2
    Hey thanks 4 the advice!!! i am going 2 conduct a search asap!!! if i find a fuel sending unit i will gladly let u no where and how i got it. I also need a new front bumper and dash 4 my 1989 323. does any1 have either of those 4 sell? I will pay tip top dollar 4 any such parts!
  • kitkat250kitkat250 Posts: 13
    HI it is probably your cv joint. I just had my done and it only cost me 73.00. I have a family member that installed it for me. Apparently it is really easy and quick to change. hope this helps.
  • kitkat250kitkat250 Posts: 13
    HI all I have an oil leak in my engine which I've had for the last 5 years. I have had the valve gasket cover replace a couple of times but now I hear something about the cam shaft oil seal. Is this a common problem and does it cost alot to get done or is it easy enough for the home mechanic to do. I would appreciate any and all info on this matter.
    thanks Kathy
    :)
  • sschmidsschmid Posts: 28
    You got quite a deal and lucky to have someone to install it. For most people I think it would be significantly more.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,871
    It's Tuesday, and for those of you new to the forums, that means it's time for our weekly Mazda chat. Stop in this evening to meet and greet some of your fellow forums members, talk about the cars, share some CarSpace photos and videos, and in general have a good time!

    The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule

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  • kitkat250kitkat250 Posts: 13
    Hey I have the same problem in the warm weather with my car crapping out at stop lights. Does anyone know why?? I had forgotten that it did that because it is cooler out right now but as soon as it is warm weather it will come back and haunt me. Let me know if you have a solution. Thanks
    :confuse:
  • hey i had that same problem with my 87 mazda 323 its a quik fix and only costs about 30 bucks at advanced auto but you should also replace the plugs and wires plus the rotor button just to make sure. not a big fan on rotory motors to expensive to fix and i dont like something i cant work on myself.
  • Hey iam looking for a manual rack and pinion steering set up for my 1987 mazda 323. ive had the hardest time finding it for some reason. and on top of that iam trying to find a new motor mine has 250,000 miles on her and well id like to be able to take this one out and rebuild it i just need a quik replacement to hold me over. i love this car and any help would be great. thanks
  • mr_drmr_dr Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Mazda 323 sport, automatic, only has about 48,000 miles on it. I have just read throughall the posts and have seen similar problems but not mine.

    The car starts and runs fine. I can drive it on the highway with no problems, but when I get into traffic in the city, after about five minutes, it will just die and not start. The Tach drops completely and dead. It sounds like it is not getting gas. Then I open the hood, wait fifteen minutes, and it starts right up. If I am still in traffic, it will die again in five minutes, I wait ten, and it starts up again. Drive in traffic, a coupld of minutes, it dies, wait ten minutes, and it starts.

    My mechanic can´t figure it out! We changed the fuel filter and pump. Cleaned carberator, but it still dies. We have left the car running for 40 minutes, and when it hits the right temp. the fan goes on. :mad:

    Anyone with an idea?
  • inapickle1inapickle1 Posts: 1
    Hi i have a 1990 1.8 SOHC Mazda Astina. After high pressure cleaning the engine bay it won't start..grrr....Used a multimeter and there is 12.6 volts coming out of the coil when the ignition is in the 'on' position. When i hooked up a spark plug directly to the coil lead (and earthed it)there was no spark on cranking. Assuming i need a new coil but why is there still voltage coming out of the coil lead???? Could i have killed the computer or could there be water in some other sensor that is the problem???? Not sure what to do next.....some help would be greatly appreciated.
  • Okay....On any timing belt vehicle, proper maintenance calls for changing the cam shaft seal and the crankshaft seal everytime you change the timing belt. Way too many mechanics, dealers included, skip this area of maintenance! Why, because in order to get to those seals, you have to pull the timing belt! Nice expensive job if you bring it back to them! Most vehicles of this type call for that belt change interval to be around 60K miles. Kathy, you are lucky, because we have an 89 323 5 speed, formerly a 4 speed in the stable. She is always under Mama's watchful eye since she takes Daddy to work. Daddy's pet car. Now, for the valve cover gasket.

    As any engine ages, the internal pressure picks up. After a while, around 100-130 K miles for heavy foot drivers, the engine blow by pressure will reach a point where that valve cover gasket is going to leak some even when new. Point to learn here is it pays long term to have a light foot on the gas even for maintenance. Just use a inch pound torque wrench and recheck the bolts holding the gasket down. You can get an inch pound torque wrench from Home Depot or Sears in the tool department. Even if you are still leaking oil and those bolts are torqued to the correct setting, you may increase a few more inch pounds. Not too many or you will break the bolt. Off the top of my head I would say the torque amount to be about 60 inch pounds. Check the book I mention below to be sure. If around 60, don't go past 10-15 more inch pounds or that bolt will break! This is one of the few bolts you can get away with this on an engine.

    Now for you girls who can follow a recipe. I suggest you go to the auto parts store and buy a Mazda repair Manual for your car. In my case, the basic manual is a Chilton's Mazda 323/626/929/GLC/MX-6/RX-7, 1978-89 Repair Manual. Part number (8581) 46800 Spend some time with it. It will go into detail how things come apart and go back together. Do not hesitate to ask questions from what you will soon come to know as knowledgeable guys and the ones that do not know anything! That is how I learned about automobile mechanics. I do not buy new cars, I rebuild everything on mine! If you need to save money, check the local library. Also while at the library see if they have any Mitchell or other professional grade books. They may all be greek at first, but you will pick it up soon enough.

    Back to the timing belt ordeal. Okay, so someone made the belt change at 60K miles. Has it had the 120K mile change if you just bought the car? Very good question if you just bought the car, because many people will sell the car rather than have that second belt change cost. Don't get caught with a broken timing belt that will ruin the engine. Someone always does! Also, I assume you want relibilty to make it the next 60K miles. The following components should always be changed with that timing belt, every 60K: belt, crankshaft and camshaft seals. Every 120K: timing belt idlers and water pump. Some makes/models have the water pump driven by the cam shaft belt. Anything in that area from oil leaks to a broken water pump can ruin the engine causing the timing belt to fail or come off. These engines are called interference engines. That means if the belt breaks, the pistons will bend a few engine valves at the very least.

    Look for a supply house that may have lifetime warranty on the parts. With Daddy's car at 250K miles, our supply house was handing me new free parts at the last service point! I love it! I have set an e-mail alert here if you still need help. Our car has thrown a lot at me, so very little is new to me. Good luck.
  • Hmmmm, very interesting. I have seen this problem before years ago on the older Ford LTD II's. Since Ford now has a piece of Mazda, I am willing to bet the answer is the same! For starters, I hope you have some electrical trobleshooting background. Get a good wiring diagram so you can confirm my thinking before shelling out the dollars or you can risk a few bucks on my experience.

    Wiring diagram method: locate the point in the wiring diagram and on the car, where the battery power comes out of the ignition switch and goes to the engine power supply. There may be several supplys such as ignition, ECU and so on. If so, you will have to test each one alone. Power should be one with engine running. Have someone watch the meter while you drive. If the voltage drops out when the engine dies, you 99% likely to have a bad ignition switch!

    Educated guess method: The other option is to take my bet and just change the switch! The older Ford's had problems with cars that had city miles on them totaling about 100k miles. That should give you a clue in tewrms of wear point. Would love to hear the results.
  • Oh boy. Do I know the story of getting the right parts. First thing for everyone to learn here. Never ever accept the parts books or computer as being right all of the time. They are very sadly not! Now that is said, the hard part comes up.

    Okay, the part is wrong by computer, hopefully the manufacter of that part like Borg Warner for a good example, has the correct part in the supplier books. Ask to see their supplier books. If your parts supplier does not have the books, ask for a customer help line to Borg Warner for ignition parts. Google, 37, whatever.com search engine may help as well.

    Now, direct to your problem. If you are getting a good confirmed spark at each plug end of wires then I think we can rule spark out. Your vehicle was stored for ten months. I store a lot of vehicles as well. Sometimes much longer than that. The system that gives me the most trouble is the fuel system. You said you have fuel flow. Question now becomes what about fuel, air and timing? Check your air flow intakes for a bird nest or something else that moved in. Old cars make great homes for wild things! Block off the air flow, you are out of business. The next thing, fuel pumps. Many EFI systems must have enough fuel pressure to get enough into the cylinder to start the engine. Get a high pressure fuel tester to check this. Also check to see if your car has a cold start injector. If so, is it working. What about the air bypass valve? Not as likely to be a problem, but worth the check towards the end here, pull you timing belt covers off and make sure your timing belt has not jumped a tooth.

    All of this fails, welcome to my neighborhood. It now becomes a trip to the library to find some Professional level Mitchel manuals to troubleshoot the fuel injection system. You might as well know, this is one of those problems I will work a bit on, then walk away from it before I get mad at it! Take your time with it. Talk with a few other pros. Never know when someone hit the same problem and solved it.
  • Oh, finally what sounds like a simple one. Look into the outside vent between the hood and windsheid. If you can see the wiper arm connections, see if the link between the motor and the crank arms broke. This will most likely be a dealer item or better yet, a cheap trip to the junk yard for a replacement.
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