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Ford Escort Wagon

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Comments

  • shaffershaffer Posts: 4
    when do you have to change the timeing belt. I have a 1998 Escort Wagon it has
    60000 miles. do i need to change it now? what happens if the timeing belt breaks
  • I have the same prblem with my 1995 Escort LX Wagon. The car runs great, but once it it hot, has run for 10 minutes or more, it won't start again. If I let it sit for 4 hours or over night, it will start again. I need help soon, I need to go to Chicago and New York with the car, over 2.000 miles together, and I don't want to be stranded in the middle of Ohio or Penn. HELP !!

    Carsten
  • The heater blower mote was not working. I replaced the motor and it now works if I ground the Blue/Black wire at the resistor but does not run with the fan speed control switch. I have power at the blue/Black but not at the blue/white, blue/red, blue, or blue/yellow wires. I checked the resistor with an ohm meter, each coil checks OK and the thermal limiter checks OK. I have found two relays in the engine compartment but don't know which is for the blower. Any suggestions?
  • Hello, I own a 96 escort wagon with 77k on it.. It just died one day, and now it wont start.. I changed the plugs. It is getting spark. At the bleeder valve i get fuel when turning the engine over, but not just with the key on.. I am stumped!!! Anyone with some info would be greatly appreciated...Thanx..chevymann
  • when do you have to change the timeing belt. I have a 1998 Escort Wagon it has
    60000 miles. do i need to change it now? what happens if the timeing belt breaks?
  • I bumped my rear bumper when parking. When I came back to the car later, I saw that the left and center brake light were on. The keys weren't even in the car. Right brake light works normally. The cruise control has also finally stopped working (it was intermittent before). I'm sure I could fix those lights. I have no wiring info.

    I'd really appriciate any help.
  • Two possible causes:
    1) Overfilling the transmission fluid can make the transmission misbehave. Can usually be detected by checking the fluid per the manual. If the fluid is bubbly, its probably overfilled.
    2) Our Focus has a temperature sensor in the transmission that went intermittent on us, and produced symptoms similar to what you describe.
  • when do you have to change the timeing belt. I have a 1998 Escort Wagon it has
    60000 miles. do i need to change it now? what happens if the timeing belt breaks? o please tell me!
  • Have a '95 that had an aftermarket security system, needs a special elotronic key. I have removed the system, & am looking for a basic ignition wiring schematic. Does anyone have 1?
  • :cry: still cant figure out why my escort wont start!!! anyone have any ideas??? :confuse:
  • We bought our Escort new. It has been a wonderful little car. It is a 5-speed and unlike the automatic seems to have a little more "pep." It has 75,000 miles. Last week, on two occasions after driving about 10 miles, it stalled out, but we were able to restart it. Since we are moving next month and will be traveling about 850 miles, we took it into the shop for an estimate. It cost $89.95 to hook it up to their machine. We received a call that the problem was a sensor and it would cost $850.00 to repair!! We think their estimate is way out of line and we were hoping someone could give us an idea of what this repair should cost. We hate to part with this great little car, but we are wondering if it is worth fixing at this point. Could somebody give us some feedback?
  • The shroud should only be attached by 4 phillips screws. Then carefuly seperate the two halfs that snap together. If it is the key cylinder it is held on the steering collum by break away screws. Shouldn't be to difficult.
  • The lock cylinder is becoming worn. If you push the plug by the keyway it should turn off. Only repair is to replace lock or disconnect bleeper.
  • Hi!

    Yes, I also seem to be having the same problem. My car is a 1991 Escort 4-door wagon, and automatic. It has a 1.8 liter engine. My car runs like a top when its moving, but when I come to a light or a stop sign the idle starts to die and about 10 to 20 seconds later it stalls. I usually put it in neutral and keep my foot on the gas to keep it from stalling at a light or sign. I have done just about everything I can think of. I also have totally re-done the throttle body, the idle air valve, oxygen sensor, cleaned out the intake manifold, checked all the fuel lines and emissions, spark plugs and wires. It's definatly not the fuel rail or anything to do with that. It's becoming very frustrating. So know your not alone. I am going to try one more thing and i'll let you know if it works or not, hopefully it works. E-mail me whenever you get this and i'll let you know if it was successful. seal6102@yahoo.com thanks!">
  • If the timing belt beaks, you car is dead.
    However, no damage is done with the 1.9 engine
    The Mfg recommends change at 60K
    Not uncommon to be able to to 80K, but don's count on it.
    $260. Water pump should be done at the same time, your right there at this time.
  • I have just had my nearside wing mirror smashed and need replacement to pass yearly MOT tests here in the UK .Any one know how much they cost and a source that would send one to the UK?
  • I'm kinda a Chevy man myself but what have you done as basics to get this "DROF" running? Ford seems to do everything backwards so what the heck I'll join in. I don't know how well versed you are on mechanics... so, please forgive me if I sound like I am talking down to you... I mean no disrespect... just trying to start with the basics.
    Four things make it happen...1. Fuel, 2. Fire, 3. Compression, 4.Timing.
    First I would check for spark on all 4 cylinders... don't get "bit"!!!!.. If you aren't sure how to safely check, ask me. I have a couple of ways that are pretty easy... Do you have a distributor on your year or is it solid state?
    Second I would check the compression. I think Auto Zone "rents" (It's FREE with just a deposit) a compression tester. The results should be at least 100- 120 psi per cylinder and should not vary more that about 10-15 % from any one to the others. If you have more than 120 all the better. I just did a valve job on a 1.9 and it read 170. So guage accordingly.
    Third, Spray some starting fluid (about 2-3 seconds) into the intake between the air filter and the engine. (the key is don't let the air filter block out the starting fluid).
    If it starts now or at least tries to you probably have a fuel blockage. Fuel filter, bad fuel pump, plugged screen in the fuel tank... Or perhaps your gas guage is wrong and it is out of fuel... Yes, I had that happen to me!!! Boy did I feel silly I do allot of work on cars and that was really embarrassing. Silly as it sounds, it does happen.
    Fourth, the timing is possibly off. Depending on the year and how many sensos your car may have it can be easy ti fix or very difficult to fix.
    All the best let me know how it turns out.
  • My message number 334 should have been 1995 Escort wagon
  • Hey thanx for the info man.. I have narrowed it down to the timing belt is broke, or the botom pulley has came loose some how. I took the cover loose, and I cant see where the belt is broke, but it doesnt turn when you turn the engine over...I plan on tearing into it very soon.. Again thanx for the info. I have done all that, except checking the compression.. :confuse:
  • Martyn,

    Be sure and search the internet.

    There are all kinds of sites that sell automotive replacement parts, and most of them will ship anywhere. :)
  • Carsten,

    If you haven't checked the ignition coil, it might be something else to consider.

    Coils that are failing tend to work better when cold, then fade out. :surprise:
  • Thanks for the tip but the three I have found and tried all come back to "Trademotion.com" which are asking $129 for the mirror and $115 for postage.
    That really is expensive just to see who is coming up behind you. :(
  • biggy1biggy1 Posts: 1
    does anyone know what size the stock front speakers are on the 1994 escort wagon
  • Hi, everyone. I just picked up a 1999 Escort Wagon as my commuter car (70 mi/day round trip). Nice car, in generally good condition, with one issue I'd like to resolve. The car idles a bit roughly at full stop, at street lights. It only does this in "drive" - if I shift into neutral, it quiets down. I do plan on getting a tune-up, and I know it needs a new air filter, but don't know if either of these will affect the idle issue. Any insights?

    -Steven-
  • i have a 94 escort lx & the thing will not turn over when i turn the key one of two relay switches on the firewall pass. side makes a snap sound but that is the only noise i replaced the starter if i directly run power to the starter it fires up nothing but a single click from one of the relays when i turn the key please help
  • kurekure Posts: 1
    Hi,

    My 93 escort wagon could not pass the smog check because of the "check engine" light keeps on. Mechanic did computer test and found two problems: one is the EGR whatever and another is the mass air flow sensor. They replaced the EGR.. and fixed the code. However when they replaced the mass air flow sensor, the code was still there. They said that the wires and connection seem worked. They don't know why. They suggested to replace the computer on my car.

    Any comments and suggestion? Very appreciative, :cry:
  • DROVE CAR 100 MILES AND TURNED IT OFF, IT WILL NOT START
    WILL TURN OVER BUT WILL NOT CRANK,SUSPECT FUEL PUMP BUT AM NOT SURE, WHERE IS PUM LOCATED AND HOW TO CHECK TOO SEE IF IT IS THE PROBLEM, IS IT HARD TO REPLACE BY YOURSELF???
    IT IS AN AUTOMATIC 4 CYLENDAR.
    THANKS FOR ANY HELP YOU CAN GIVE ME
    HAMLIN2
  • I have a similar problem. My 1995 Escort (auto trans) actually started out acting that way. Now, it's like my car is solar powered. Once the sun sets or the humidity is high she won't perform. In the city - she takes off doing like 3-5mph for 10 sec then kicks in and on the highway - she gets stuck in like 3rd gear. As long as the sun is up and the air is dry she's fine. Took her for diagnostic testing - Nothing! They can't find anything wrong. And they are usually closed when she's acting this way. I think it's a breather problem. She's got over 225,00 miles so I really can't complain. But she's still got a lot left in her. This is her only problem!
  • The check engine light comes on 8 to 9 minutes after starting from a cold start(outside temp 30 - 40). With the light on and car rolling, I can turn the ignition off and immediately restart. The light will be off but relight after a shorter time period. Finally, the light will not come on if I can get on the highway before the 8-9 minutes and maintain 60+ mph.

    Any suggestions?
  • Hi,
    I am very intrigued by how your problem worked out, as I am experiencing the SAME PROBLEM :mad: . What has worked for me so far (fingers crossed) is to wiggle the relays, thier corresponding wires, and the plastic piece that they go into. Sometimes I'll have to do this repeatedly (10 - 30 times) before it will work. Did you ever fix/diagnose your problem, and if so - what was it???
    Thanks and take care,
    greg
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