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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro

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Comments

  • It is most likely the fan relay, or it could be the fuse is blown in the fan relay circuit, ot it could be the fan switch is bad, or it could be a loose wire or loose connection.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • At WOT there is less vacuum than at closed or part throttle. I would suspect that the Vacuum Ball (or line to it) is leaking. The vacuum ball is used as a Vacuum reservoir so that the HVAC has enough vacuum to operate properly when the engine is under part or full load such as accelerating or going up a steep hill.
  • ccb369ccb369 Posts: 1
    On my 1997 Astro only one side of the rear door window will "pop" open. I can not get the window to open, which mean I haven't been able to open the dutch doors either.
  • becquibecqui Posts: 1
    Can you or anyone tell me how you fixed the rear cargo door handle and or how to get into the doors?
  • ramzoniramzoni Posts: 5
    I have had to fix mine 3 times (the handle kept coming loose from the inner latch assembly) and it seems like we pried loose the panel after removing all of the screws around it and pulling the speaker casing off. I don't remember exactly. The handle assembly itself operates on a rod that connects with these little metal clips. If the clip slips or is not crimped tight, it pops off the bar and then the handle is just floppy and doesn't work. I believe we also had to figure out a way to open the back door first in order to fully access the panel, which presents more of a challenge. I think if you can get the speaker out, then reach inside the door, you can pull on the bar that will make the door open. I know for a while, our door handle would work ONLY if someone was hitting the unlock button repeatedly while the other person pushed in on the metal right above the door handle while pulling on the door handle. You might try that first to see if you can get it to open that way. I witnessed someone at a gas station doing the same thing with their Astro back door too. Ours seems to work okay now that it has been fixed 3 times, except that I still have to push in above the handle (to relieve tension on the latch) while pulling on the handle. Good luck!!
  • ramzoniramzoni Posts: 5
    I know it sounds weird. 90 Astro with 169K mi on it, been a wonderful vehicle with very few problems. When it gets to 50+mph, it almost feels like transmission is slipping. Had tranny fluid changed, but mechanic said the old fluid looked good and no metal chards in pan, etc. Tranny feels good otherwise. Wondering about a fuel problem? Have to drop tank to get to fuel pump, so exploring all options first. Could it be the fuel injectors? Clogged fuel filter? Anyone else had a similar problem? Is there a way to bypass the old fuel pump with a modified line so that we don't have to drop the tank?
  • indyjenindyjen Posts: 4
    My check engine light came on in the van (131K miles) today - I am trading the van in on saturday, already have an appraisal and I don't want to have to put any money into this thing this week!!!!

    We did nothing usual today - we did get gas yesterday. I have opened and retightened the gas cap. The van seems to run fine. It is overdue for an oil change.....

    Any suggestions.....
  • cobcob Posts: 210
    Depends on how honest you want to be? You can get the light to turn off and erase the codes by either removing the neg battery cable for 5-10 minutes or I believe the fuse in the box by the battery labeled ignition #1 will do the same thing. Rest start the van and see if the light stays off. Otherwise instead of option one, erasing the code, drive to the nearest Autozone and they will hookup a scanner to read the code for free. It may just be a dirty sensor that can easily be cleaned or replaced.
  • egillettegillett Posts: 14
    The only way to get to it is by removing the inside panel and speaker grill. Make sure once you get it fixed that you lubricate the latching mechanism regularly or you will become very good at removing the back inside panel. Same goes for the hood release latch. Lubricate regularly and look for it to bend slightly from being closed. All will cause it to hang up. Good luck!
  • egillettegillett Posts: 14
    I've seen several plug in code scanners advertised at PEP BOYS. Has anyone bought one and do they work and is it worth the money???

    An Inquiring mind
  • indyjenindyjen Posts: 4
    Honest is something I definitely want to be.

    Good news to report though. I believe it was the gas I got - after putting in a fuel injection cleaner and some high octane gas, the engine light went off on it's own!!!

    Thank goodness!!!! My next step was to drive to Autozone to have them hook for the scanner - thankfully, the van behaved itself....
  • Hi,
    I have a 1998 AWD AstroVan just turned 107,000 miles. Major tune up done motor runs great. I get in the van the other day with my wife and I hear a tractor like whining from the front end at 10-40 mph. goes away at highway speeds. I rotated the tires fron to back but the noise is still there.
    I topped off the front diff which seemed to have a pinion leak it took 3/4 quart of hypoid. Noise is still there. It sounds like a wheel bearing, but there is no change in sound when turning the wheel side to side. Most wheel bearings get louder / lower when turning the wheel while driving. This is driving me nuts, you can hear and feel the vibration on the wheel, but don't know how to find it.

    Thanks,

    Joe from NY
  • we have a 95 Safari, the upper door will not latch when lowered, the lower 2 doors however do latch and lock.Help, Art
  • YES!! I have indeed had, and fixed this problem on the CHEAP.

    I tried to get answers from the dealer snd got the run around. Well since I am a Car audio installer BY trade for 18 years I took out the A/C Controls and found the HIGH output on the back of the switch does nothing more than send 12volts direct to the FAN MOTOR under the hood, I BELIVE this wire here is PURPLE as well... FYI the other speeds do the same, but send different voltages through resistors to the same PURPLE wire at the MOTOR under the hood passenger side...

    SO I took the HIGH output from the switch, ran a wire to under the hood where I put it into pole 85 of a standard SPDT relay ( you can get at auto zone ) I then grounded the pole 86, and put FUSED 12volts direct from the BATTERY into Pole 30 and connected POLE 87 to the purple wire - BE SURE TO USE AT LEAST 12G WIRE ON THE 12V, AND PURPLE WIRE OUTPUTS FROM THE RELAY. DO NOT USE POLE 87A and be sure to tap off.

    Not only will this fix your problem, but your FAN will actually BLOW harder than ever before as you are sending a stronger source of 12volts to it rather than sending 12volts that has gone though the entire electrical system first. This set up does not affect any of the rest of the AC system in anyway.

    I assume there is a HIGH SPEED FAN RELAY somewhere...But it did not seem to be getting the signal to send voltage to the motor, SO I assumed there had to be a fusable link or other break in the signal wire from the A/C Switch...

    HOPE it helps...

    Ken
  • My 2000 Astro has had vibration above 65-70 and the dealer can't find it.
    I replaced tires, wheels, front drive shaft, and dealer looked at everything.
    But the vibration persists. I am interested in your comments about the front wheel bearings correcting a high speed vibration problem.
    Thanks,
    Richard R.
  • egillettegillett Posts: 14
    Rich,
    I'm sure the dealer has tried rotating the tires in addition to "spin" balancing each one. Spin balancing is the only way to rule out the tires as a cause of the problem.

    Good luck,
    Ed
  • egillettegillett Posts: 14
    If the window works from the drivers side, check the wireing from the r-switch.
  • ranger44ranger44 Posts: 1
    I have a 94 astro rear wheel drive 4.3L (262) EFI V6 engine .I want to get some lowering springs and the have 2 sets listed for my year 1 set says fits TBI other CPI.Which one do I need? Many Thanks!
  • dang3dang3 Posts: 5
    I ended up gluing a block to the door wide enough for the rod to not be able to slip off hte arm. The 2003's don't have a clip, just a hole with very slight interference. Since I glued the block in place, I have not had another problem.
    Dan
  • dang3dang3 Posts: 5
    My 2003 had a sheared retaining bolt and metal debris ruined one of the bearings inside the differential. cost was $700 to fix. I thought it was a wheel bearing, but was wrong. If you are going 45 MPH and swing the wheel left to right and back again, and hear no pitch change, it is more than likely a differential problem
  • astroawdastroawd Posts: 2
    Put a stethoscope to the differential and transfer case. Make sure you use the proper fluid GM "Action Trac' in the transfer case.
  • astroawdastroawd Posts: 2
    91 Astro AWD EXT with 163,000. Rebuilt: frt diff, transfer case w/GM updates/upgrades, trans, new drive lines, new front end steering rods, etc. Pretty much alleviated the initial rumble vibration. Now months later have a vibe that shakes vehicle @35 to 49 mph on acceleration only - trans axle CV joint? transfer case? universal joints? It is amazing that GM mechanics cannot figure these kinds of problems out at $80 to $90 per hour. Someone out there have the same vibration experience?
  • shoretyusshoretyus Posts: 4
    I have a 98 safari AWD 167 Km's
    Coil plugs wires changed in April. Two weeks ago it developed and miss ( really noticeable at low idle.

    Mechanic scanned codes and it showed intermitant missfire on cylinder #5. He replaced wire and plug and it ran ok for him.
    Our first long trip of 1 1/2 or so it started to miss again.

    It cleared up but the engine light came on.

    Mechanic checked codes and it showed nothing. Reset light.
    It short hauled all week with no problems.
    The problem came again this weekend on an hour trip one. It kind of cleared up on the way home and was fine this morning.

    A search of the archives suggested stuck poppet valve in injections system.
    Any other ideas to look for. Hard to start looking if the problem this elusive.

    Thanks
  • cobcob Posts: 210
    Have you checked distributor cap for cracks or rotor issue? Most misfire issues have been coil related but you already replaced that part.
  • shoretyusshoretyus Posts: 4
    new distributor to.
  • dlralphdlralph Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 GMC Safari van that the window part of the dutch doors has stopped releasing so I cannot open the back doors. I have removed the two interior side panels, but can find nothing that will let me get to the latch on the driver side which is not releasing. Any advice??? Thanks, David
  • armyanglearmyangle Posts: 2
    hi i had the same problem and i changed the drive shaft and it quit the viberation
  • armyanglearmyangle Posts: 2
    what do you mean transmition problems i have a 2003 chevy asto and had problem after problem with it and the only way i can get out of this 13thousand dollar van is if the transmition goes
  • mechonemechone Posts: 4
    I have a wrecked 96 GMC Safari passanger van and a 2000 GMC Safari Work van. My work van rear hatch does not have a release botton. I tried to take the botton off the dash of the 96 van but there are no wires on the 2000 van to connect it to... any ideals?

    The actuator is on the hatch door and seems to work fine when I hook it to the 96 van. Where is the botton on the 2000 van?
  • lslllsll Posts: 18
    Look inside the right door panel and pull up on the rod. I had this problem also. Did you try the lock on the right door? if your key will not go in or turn then pull up on the rod. When you get the top open, do not open the left side. The handle and the bottom piece has to be changed. Just make sure the left door is all the way forward. You should be able to use the top window and the right door only. hope this works.
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