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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro

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  • I have the same problem with my 96 AWD Astro. "A vibration happens right around 55 mph. Usually I notice it lasts about 2 or 3 seconds and repeats." Unfortunately I put different size tires on the front vs the rear. I notice that the front tires were "chucking" as I went around tight corners and turning while backing up. When I discovered the snow tires and the front tires were different I bought all new tires but it did not solve the chucking problem. I’ve disconnected the front drive shaft and that eliminated the chucking but now that it’s winter I would like to install the front drive shaft so I can get the AWD back, but I assume that the chucking will start again. Do you have any ideas on what the failure might be? I have 166,000 miles the van usually runs great (its my third Astro). The butterfly in the throttle body going completely closed and sticking caused the sticking gas pedal. The passenger side window was not working and was caused by the blue wire in the door hinge area breaking. Also I’m on my third gas pump.
  • I have the same problem with my 96 AWD Astro. "A vibration happens right around 55 mph. Usually I notice it lasts about 2 or 3 seconds and repeats." Unfortunately I put different size tires on the front vs the rear. I notice that the front tires were "chucking" as I went around tight corners and turning while backing up. When I discovered the snow tires and the front tires were different I bought all new tires but it did not solve the chucking problem. I’ve disconnected the front drive shaft and that eliminated the chucking but now that it’s winter I would like to install the front drive shaft so I can get the AWD back, but I assume that the chucking will start again. Do you have any ideas on what the failure might be? I have 166,000 miles the van usually runs great (its my third Astro). The butterfly in the throttle body going completely closed and sticking caused the sticking gas pedal. The passenger side window was not working and was caused by the blue wire in the door hinge area breaking. Also I’m on my third gas pump.
  • stan7stan7 Posts: 7
    It was slammed shut and now the drivers side won't disengage. The right side does. How can I fix this? I guess I need access to the lock thru removing interior panels? What do I do when I access the lock? See if it's broken? Stuck? Haven't even tried yet. Easy to do? Two body guys said they won't touch it.....
  • stan7stan7 Posts: 7
    My 2000 had this happen over 2-years ago. Have to pull it up by hand while the window motor is running. Cleaning and silconing the side tracks helped but I think that when the window encounters any resistance, it stops - that's why it stops when the window stops when it hits the top of the door...anyway, I just live with it. Yet another problem with the Astro....
  • I asked the window question in Oct 2005 and never received a reply until now. I ended up doing the window motor repair myself.

    I pulled the door panel off and then drilled out the rivets holding the motor and removed just the motor. I purchased a new motor from a local auto parts store and installed it using sheet metal screws. Sounds simple but it did take some thinking on how to handle this.

    The old motor still worked but obviously had some bad gear teeth inside as it would only move the window a few inches up and down, leaving the window about 8 inches from the top.

    The cost of the motor was about $70.00
  • :cry: I recently was driving my 87 Astro and it stalled while at a stop. I restarted it and it would not move faster then a crawl while feathering the gas. I managed to park it and turn it off. After restarting it, it seemed to run fine, until I put it back into gear, then the engine continued to bog and sputter, unless I was feathering the gas to keep it running. The books and online sources state it could be a vacuum leak, but after checking the engine I'm not finding and leaks.
    Does anyone have any ideas as to what could be wrong with it?
  • keshbkeshb Posts: 1
    High speed inline fuse is located behind the battery .
  • 99si99si Posts: 2
    Ive had the same problem turned out to be the mass airflow sensor
  • 99si99si Posts: 2
    hello so.. ive replaced the fuel pump and controll module ,i get 45 lbs of gas at the shrader valve and have spark,its yello not blue,wondering why it wont start?? knock sensor?new coil?? not sure.

    please help somebody!!!
    :cry:
  • I went out to start this van the other day. It would turn over fine but wouldn't start. It had been running fine for the last 3 months since I bought it. I tried starting it until I killed the battery and it wouldn't even try to start. I had a friend who is a mechanic look at it. He checked the fuel pressure, "55-63", he also checked every spark plug with a light. Every plug is firing. So, I have good fuel pressure and the plugs are firing. This makes no sense to me. This van was running perfect and was not giving me any reason to think something was wrong. Any ideas. Thanks.
  • This may not help but I have a 96 safari (134k) that does the same thing on cold damp days, usually raining and or snowing. Go to start it first thing in the morning and the engine cranks over fine but won't start. I found that when the vehicle is moved inside to warm-up and dry out (like in a shop) It will then start up like nothing was ever wrong, and continue to run fine till the next time the weather turns cold and damp. The dealership put in a new fuel pump, did not help. Last week it failed to start, I pulled the engine cover and replaced the distributor cap and rotor, so far so good.
  • Yep me too. I also have a 96 Astro (312K) and thats what I did, changed the cap and rotor and I to am so far so good.
  • hansiennahansienna Posts: 2,312
    And my daughter loves her 1991 Astro with all the interior volume. Her main dislike is the very limited foot and leg space for the front passenger and the fact that the van is getting old. It was "well used" when she purchased it about 5 years ago after her 1989 Plymouth Voyager was totalled when the other driver ran into her van in an intersection striking the Voyager at the left front wheel.
    A FWD vehicle does not have to be very old to be totalled in a collision when a driving wheel is struck from the side. :cry:
  • hello everyone. i took my safari in for emissions testing yesterday and they said the idle was 1390 rpm. they won't test anything higher than 1100 rpm. my question is.... how do i lower the idle?? any suggestions or advice would be very helpful. thanks..
  • I recently purchased a 99 Astro with only 42K mles and the Dutch Door option. I really didn't want the Dutch doors, but it's what it had. Looks like I was right. Less than 2 weeks ownership, and the upper portion won't open. It makes all the sounds, like you can hear what seems to be the mechanism working inside the door, but no go.

    I read a bunch of other messages here about similar problems, but none seem to address mine directly.

    Any suggestions? I can't even see any way to get into the mechanism from the inside - there doesn't appear to be any way to get the inside panels off while the door is closed. Is a dealer shop going to be able to help me without damaging something? I've got a bunch of stuff that I really need to get out!

    Thanks for any info - John
  • Well, I managed to get the trim piece off from the inside, though it meant cracking it where the two upper side screw were, since you can't get to those unless the door is open, (bad design!). I was then able to see where the little plastic connector/holders that hold the outside ends of the release rods to the actual latches had broken on both ends. Hopefully I can get just these from Checy parts. (Why'd they make them plastic, anyway??). I really can't figure how both of them broke at once - maybe when I see what the whole part looks like it will make sense.

    John
  • dexguydexguy Posts: 3
    i have a 92 safari awd. the idle is way too high, any ideas on how to get it back down where it belongs?. i also have that problem with the rear hatch glass not wanting to open. but one thing at a time.
  • xboxxbox Posts: 2
    I had the smae problem with my 97 Safari (25000 KLM).Just changed plug,dist.cap and plugs. After that on problems. :blush:
  • If you have the 4.3 motor, check the thin gasket at the base of the throttle body. I have an 89 s-10 with a 4.3 and it idled like a jet. I replaced the <$10 gasket myself and fixed it. Pretty simple repair, less than an hour, no special tools
  • I had the runblestrip noise at about the same speeds. I went through several service trips until I finally got the GM Factory "Expert" in my van. Drive the vehicle up to just below where the vibration occurs, lightly, just enough to turn on the brake lights, step on the brake and accelerate smoothly past the vibration speed. If the vibration does not occur it is your torque converter. The expert says the torque converter is shuddering instead of locking in. The torque converter is locked out when the brake cicuit is engaged. My vehicle was under warranty for my repair and the problem was resolved.
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