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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro

1474850525386

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  • I had a similar problem. The rod that releases the driver's side came off at the center pivot point. I was able to fix the problem by the following:
    (from the inside):
    I removed the handle from the back lid. There are plastic covers on each side of the handle that cover the bolts. I removed these. Then I removed the bolts. There was a larger plastic piece behind the handle that also came off once these bolts were removed. I was able to see the pivot point. The bottom of the pivot had a hole in it where the rod was suppose to be. It was tight quarters, but I felt inside the opening for the rod with my finger and was able to pull/push it to release the driver's side. With the passenger side already released and the diver's side now released, I was able to open the lid. At this point I found it easier to stand outside and fix the problem.
    (from the outside):
    I had to fish the rod back into the hole in the pivot. There is a shoulder/ridge on the tip of the rod where some sort of clip should be put after the rod is back into the hole. I used a small plastic tie wrap instead and fished it through the hole and around the rod. It seems to work pretty good, however, you may want to get a new clip instead. But good luck trying to get it back on (on the backside). There just isn't much room to work.

    Good luck, if you haven't already found the solution.
  • dexguydexguy Posts: 3
    i was able to get the idle back down to 800 rpm. it had a vacuum leak. now it runs alot better. i was surprised to find out that i have a 27 gallon gas tank. made it from seattle to northern california on 1 tank. los angeles on 2 tanks..
  • yamyyamy Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Safari that has the security light come on from time to time. Some times when I start it, it will come on and stay on. Other times I will start it an it will be off and come on later as I am driving it. And sometimes it will go off as I am driving it. I have no drive ability problems when it is running. But sometimes when I go to crank it,it will run for a second and die out. If I wait for 10 minutes it will start up with no problem. This no start or stall may happen a couple times in a day and other times go for 3-4 weeks and not happen but the light may come and go during those weeks.
  • tkwtkw Posts: 29
    My 98 Safari's power door lock at the back door & sliding door seems to stick occasionally. I can hear the clicking of the solenoid but it didn't open the latch. In the case of the back door, it can be open to the 1st latching position but stuck at the secondary latching position. Both doors can be opened manually with key. Any idea? Would a little WD40 help?
  • boziebozie Posts: 30
    Finnaly found the location of the tsu sensor. Near and to the bottom left of the thermostat goose neck. We replaced it and the thermostat but that did not solve the continuse loping as if the throttle was allowing too much fuel erractly.So that's where we stand. Gas metering problem with curb idling thrown in. Anyone have a suggestion what to do next? Bozie
  • boziebozie Posts: 30
    The going thing now in my book is white lithium spray grease. Good for most applications. Will stay with place applied. Bozie
  • Still having problems finding info on my 87 Astro. I was recently able to get her started after replacing the fuel pressure regulator, but she still doesn't run right. While in gear she is TERRIBLY sluggish, and feels like the power is not there. The tranny doesn't seem to be the problem. So I'm left with the engine. While inspecting the engine and the TBI, I noticed a small vacuum inlet coming out of the intake manifold with nothing connected to it. I'm not the first owner of this van, and it's pretty obvious someone wasn't sure what was going on with the vacuum system. Does anyone have any idea what the mystery vacuum port is, how I would reroute all the vacuum lines correctly, or why she's still not running correctly otherwise?
    It is an 87 Chevy Astro, 4.3L V6, with a 220 TBI. I'm not sure what the year of the engine is as it was a rebuilt installed before I ever saw the van, but it looks like a 87-88 to me. Any info would help at this point....THANKS!!!
  • Check resistor board which is located behind fluid reservoirs to the right from blower motor. Disconnect plug, undo two screws and pull out the board. I had mine fixed couple of times already. You can fix it by resoldering burnt paths or replace the board.
  • hansiennahansienna Posts: 2,312
    And now has 212,727 miles on the odometer. I offered to loan her our 2002 T&C for a 900 mile trip next weekend. She, her husband, and their children love their Astro so she may decline the offer.
  • I have a 1994 Safari that is idoling very rough. It sounds like its starving for gas. Its really puttering and sounds like it will die at any moment, but keeps running. When I shift into reverse or drive, it will die out unless im pressing on the gas. I'm having to shift into neutral at stop signs to rev up the engine to keep it from dying. It has plenty of cranking power when starting, but I need to pump the gas to get it to start. The lights and electrical still work fine which leads me to believe its not a battery problem. Sounds like a bad fuel filter, but I'm just a novice. Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks everyone in advance...
  • Just drove our '96 AstroVan from Alaska to Florida - no problems and great gas mileage. Now, however, the charging system is only working occassionally. Sometimes the guage shows the correct charge and other times is goes down to the red and just a week ago it went completely down and we had to have it towed home. I took the alternator out and took it to an electrical shop and had it tested and it is working fine - any ideas. Everything seems to work fine except the passenger side power window which only goes down about an inch at a time. I don't really want to take it to a shop without some sort of idea what might be wrong. ANy help would be greatly appreciated!
  • Hi,
    I been looking for a used Astro. Kinda like the mini-van look of the Astro. I found one right near the house by me. Problem is the guy wants to much for the amount of work it needs. I been looking at this forum and reading for a while so I kinda know what to look out for. It's amazing the same issues come up with the one I looked at. Get this..... The guy is asking $1800, (but will take $1700) for a 1991 Astro with 108,000 miles. The problems...... The dash is loose from him mounting a stereo and a piece of the small trim is missing, the right side power window dont work, the dvd player in the TV dont work, the anti-lock brake lite stays on, it idles rough when cold, the heater blower relay has to be shaken sometimes to get the blower on and the power wire gets hot, there is a small leak near the left side of the intake manifold near the corner, windshield has a crack, the last rear seat mounting brackets are missing, the sliding door sticks and needs to be forced open, the right side washer hose is missing, the temp gauge nevers goes to normal operating temp, when making a turn the steering kinda makes a rubbing noise like something near the wheel in the column once in a while, the steering seems to pull to the left a little, and a few other small things. I guess I better keep looking. He wants way to much for the amount of work it needs. I offered him $1200, but he wont take it, he wants at least $1700. I think its gonna be around for sale for a while......
  • hansiennahansienna Posts: 2,312
    I think you should stay away from that Astro. I have never heard of an Astro having that many problems. :sick:
  • Welcome to Chevy Astros. They are famous for fuel pump problems. We run alot of Astros as cabs, and EVERY one of them eats fuel pumps. At least yours is a 95 and not a 97 or newer. 97 and newer require a $300 pump assembly instead of a $50 pump (unless you know how to change the pump within the assembly).

    All in all, though, I must say that Astros are THEE most dependable vans out there, motor-wise , even with thier quirks. We have several with 300,000- 500,000 miles on the original motors (and we drive them like cabs, not like grandmas). They are indestructable.
  • I LOVE my Astro!

    This is a 314,000 mile 1999 Astro with a STRONG original motor (doesn't use a single drop of oil) and 54,000 mile tranny (we got 260k out of the original). Other than the requisite 75k mile fuel pumps, its been a trouble-free (reletively) TAXICAB since it was bought as a demo with 20k on it. (Thank God for Auto-zone's lifetime gurantee on the fuel pumps... LOL - I only pay for someone to help me with the grunt work instead of the $600 at the shop)

    I don't really know how to describe this problem. Started 3 days or so ago when it was raining (pouring) and has snowballed into an undrivable problem. Nothing shows up on diagnostics. This is my work vehicle - a taxi - (and my sole income) and everyone is baffled. I need it back on the road.

    It started with a simple flickering of the headlights ... once in a while. Then it progressed to flickering headlights AND a speedometer doing the tango (at the same time). Then to dummy lights coming on - mostly anti-lock, but no check engine, PLUS all of the above. Cruise control kicks out, too. Now it is happening every 15 or 30 seconds or so, AND is disengaging the tranny at the same time as everything else is going haywire. Total event (all symptoms) lasts maybe a second or 2 at a time. All of the above happen at once, so I know it is a power loss of some kind and ita all related, but it doesn't make any sense. Sounds to me like some sort of ground problem.

    I knew the coil was bad and arcing, so we tried that first. Had a burnt spot on it, even. NO relief at all.

    Lost the fuel pump 2 weeks ago (again!) but that doesn't have anything to do with this, I don't think.

    How do I get the gremlins out of the system? Any ideas?
  • How do you remove the interior door panels? I need to replace the drivers side mirror and the passenger side window switch?

    Any suggestions on the best place to buy these parts for my 2003 Chevy Astro?
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 974
    mbcabbie, you might also want to ask the folks in this Maintenance & Repair discussion:

    Electronic Gremlins Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy

    MODERATOR
    Need help navigating? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • I had to replace the fuel pump assembly module, which contains the electric pump and the fuel gauge sending unit. I did the work myself with help from a neighbor. The module cost over $400 US.
    It was a coincidence the pump was going bad at the same time the fuel gauge became inaccurate. After I replaced it, I did a continuity check on the sending unit, and it measured the specified 40-240 Ohms, smooth as silk. So, to borrow a line from the film 2001: A Space Odyssey, "I'll be damned if I can find anything wrong with it."
    Since then I thought the problem occurred again, but it was either my imagination or it corrected itself.
    BTW, I think the only way to troubleshoot this problem is to drop the tank and do measurements at the connectors.
  • My old work van runs terrible on hills. A long hill will come close to killing her. The van shutters, almost shimmies, sounds wierd.
    It had a rebuilt engine about 65000 KM ago, and I know has something wrong with #1 cylinder, with the plug fouling up bad. I install a hotter plug, and that seems to cure the ailment, just for #1. I just installed new plugs, and it didn't help much, other than it idles better than before. New wires and cap last plug change before the most recent. We don't drive long distances where I live, so plugs may wear out sooner, than going down a freeway everyday. I know nothing about cars/trucks, as I am a carpenter. I love my old van, but this hill-thing is annoying, and I feel one day she may quit for good. Any ideas?
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