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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro

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Comments

  • lslllsll Posts: 18
    I am a women who drives a 91 Safari Caro Van no windows and a 96 Safari AWD Passenger Van. I love mine. Your wife just has to start using the mirrors when backing up otherwise she will do good. I like the Safari's Van because of the Heavy duty suspension on them than Astro Van's. Astro Van's the height is lower than the Safari. Especially for head room.
  • bobble60bobble60 Posts: 5
    I once slammed my window (lid) hard enough to disengage the latch internally. When i pushed the actuator, only the right latch would release, so the lid would not raise.

    From the inside, remove the strap handle. Do this by popping off the rectangual covers at each end to expose the screws. Once the handle is off, you can remove the trim and see the latch connections. There should be a connecting rod from that pivot to each side latch. The rods merely slip into the holes.

    If both rods are on and the mechanism articulates properly when the actuator is pressed (from the outside,) then one latch rod must be off at the latch itself.
  • lslllsll Posts: 18
    If you go to an Auto Parts Store and buy the Maintainence book it will have pictures of how to take it out. You should be able to see if you were to take out the center dash.
  • lslllsll Posts: 18
    I would have two things checked. One is the iner/outer wheel bearing depending on which side you feel it on. Then i would check to see if the Frame is bent underneath. This would also cause it to vibrate.
  • astroknotastroknot Posts: 1
    I also have a 2000 Astro van with about 90K miles and has a similar problem. It has a vibration between 65 and 70 mph. The vibration has gotten worse over the last 6 months so I suspect that something is wearing out in the drive train. I had my mechanic check it and he balanced wheels and said that one tire took a lot of weight to balance but it did balance. Then I had him replace U-joints when that did not work. Then had him replace shocks. When that did not work mechanic said maybe rear wheel not fitting tightly to brake drum so replaced the drum. When that did not fix it I took van to Chevy Dealer. They said the tires were lousy and replaced tires. When that did not fix it they said the drive shaft must have been bent when mechanic changed U-joints so they replaced it. When that did not work they changed front brake rotors. (One rotor had bad spot on it so it needed changing.) The vibration persisted. Dealer took off my Yakima roof rack and put OEM shocks on the front and that did not fix it. Last time we test drove it we did so with chief tech and GM rep. Yup, vibration still there. The dealer says they have checked bearings, have put different wheels on the front, put vibration monitors on it and they still cannot figure out what the problem is. They really are trying to figure it out but still the vibration persists.
    They have had the van on the lift several times and cannot see the vibration when the van is running on the lift at speed.

    The dealer says that they also have a second Astro van with similar problem.

    Any clues as to what else it could be? I suggested that they look at the pinion bearings in the rear.

    Thanks. Bill
  • We have a 2001 AWD Astro with about 90K with the same problem. We too have done everything (and spent a lot of money) but the problem is still there. Now a new problem has developed. When you apply the brakes SOMETIMES it seems to grab. Just had it back to the mechanic and we did an ABS test by getting up to 10-15 MPH and then slamming on the brakes. This recreated the brakes grabbing problems. So now we are being told that the vibration problem and the brake problem could be because the front wheel bearings need to be replaced. Can anyone give words of wisdom?

    Many thanks!
  • fixitrodfixitrod Posts: 67
    1995 Safari mileage 260000 has had brake switch replaced, all fuses OK, all bulbs replaced but the lights don't function as brake lights. Any suggestions appreciated
  • Joe from NY

    I just started 2 weeks ago to get a similar whining comming from the front end of my 2000 GMC Safari. Doesn't appear to be a wheel bearing since the whining noise stays the same in a right or left turn. I have been using a thruway on/off ramp as my gage for that since you can do about 30-40MPH. Front and rear diff are full and the transfer case is full. Transmission was rebuilt less than 3000mi ago.

    Did you find the source of the whining noise?
  • 91 4.3. Cold it will have hesitation, surging, then the check engine light will come on, and run better, but will have a slight bucking/surging at about 45 mph. On or off the gas a touch goes away. Just did a new rotor and cap (pretty well shot). Before, had a friend toss an OBD 1 on it. 042 code if I remember correctly. Electronic spark control I think it was. I'm leaning on getting a new ECM that comes off the distributer...the 3x4 inch or so flat thing mounted on the r/s behind the motor. Might try the junkyard for another, but does anyone know the year model that would interchange? I don't see much diff, but really don't know for sure..any help appreciated! Thanks, Robby
  • Did a little searching, and came up with a possibilty. Code 42 "The EST signal did not change when the ECM applied bypass voltage to the ignition module."....so where the heck do I go from here? Robby
  • I have a 1994 Astro and I need to replace the Front Clip (Hood , Grill and fenders). Does anyone know if a Clip from the 1995 models up will fit? I like the 95 and up look over the 94 and down. I realize that there would be a little reworking of the radiator etc, but If i had a donor would it work?

    Any input would be appreciated.

    T :blush: hanks!
  • Hi,
    I have a 1998 GMC Safari that started setting off code 175 (right bank is running rich) a while back. My mechanic thought that I needed to replace the O2 sensor. I replaced all 3 ($128 x 3 + sales tax) and it did not set codes for a few weeks. The code is back again and I don't trust my mechanic to do further diagnostic work. I also don't trust most repair shops or dealerships but I am afraid that I will have to break down and take it in. Can anyone here recommend a repair shop or dealership in Houston, TX.
    Thank You
  • Hey,

    I am having pretty much the same problems with my 92 safari awd. It will start and run fine but when you drive it stalls out. It then needs a bit of time to cool down.
    Iv had a pressure test on the fuel pump, new fuel filter, new plugs, wires, coil, ignition modual, distriutor and rotor, but nothing has helped. Does any one have any ideas that could point me in the right direction please???
  • I took my Safari in to an independent shop and they scanned it and said there was nothing wrong that it would set the code and then remove them within a few minutes, that it was an intermitent problem. Your problem is different than mine, I have no stalling problem and you have an OBD I emissions system and I have an OBD II system which operate differently. You need to take it to someone that can provoke the symptons and then fix it.
  • My 1995 with 260000 did that also and one thing to check out is the coolant temp sensor if yours had one. The reason I say this is because these vehicles being general motors also I find have "general parts" from the parts bin at build time so I sometiomes don't find the part on my vehicle.
    Here is my problem also. No brake lights when peddle is pushed. I replaced the brake switch and still no brake lights. I read on another site about the "Multi-Function switch" needing to be replaced but what is confusing to me is the Haynes manual descibes replacing the "MultiFunction switch lever".Is this attached to the MF(this is about how I feel about this van at the moment and why it is for sale :mad: ) switch? This makes some sense because when I press the brakes with the blinker on the radio blinks but the lights don't blink on the driver side. Also the high mount(3rd) brake light goes out but when the right turn signal is selected the 3rd light come on. So some "multi functions are out of whack it seems.
    This van was broken down and I was at teh end of my ropoe and paid a guy $200 and was told he "wired it up right". Its running but has no brake lights. I am about to go back to him but would like to know if anyone has any ideas about the MF switch; its location and removal/replacement?
  • I have a 2001 Chevy Astro 2wd w/ 55,300 miles

    I recently had the rear end replaced due to a bad diff (as per mechanic). There was a constant noise coming from the rear when I accelerated. Now I'm getting a thumping sound from the rear when I release the brake after stopping. I've been back and forth w/ the mechanic as he does not seem to know what the problem is. First he thought and still thinks its the brakes not releasing properly. I think it may be a bad rear end from the salvage.

    Can anyone provide guidance as it's getting riduculous going back and forth to the mechanic.

    Thxs.
  • Actually, from the sounds of things, your rear brake isn't releasing. And although you didn't specify a side, I'll tell you I'm 98% sure it's the passenger side rear. And you may be able to get your mechanic to fix it, but it will probably come back. Not sure why, but believe me, after owning GM cars since 1984, I haven't really found any (other than the smaller cars cavalier, sunbird, etc.) that didn't have this problem. I have 2 1994 Astros and a 1995 Safari and guess what, they all have the same problem. Not your rear end though, not in my opinion.
  • Thanks for the feedback.

    What would the mechanic need to do to fix this problem?

    The issue I have is that I never had this problem before the rear was changed. Seems to me now that one things goes in the Astro everything else will start going. Is it worth the hassle and the money? I'm betting you've had the same other issues that I've been experiencing & reading about with the astro's: door locks not working, driver side windows getting stuck, abs light & brake light staying on, etc.....
  • i am having the same problem. did you get yours fixed and what was it.
    i replaced all most every thing on my van.
    thanks email is mccreary1980@yahoo.com.
    thanks for your time
  • If your speaking about the thumping problem, no because the mechanic still has not found what the problem is (after too many return visits back to him) and I'm trying to get some feedback as to how it can be fixed.

    The problem with mine is that it doesn't happen automatically. The van needs to be driven awhile before it starts acting up, especially in bumper to bumper traffic or if I'm at a light and I release the brake.

    Don't know if I want to keep investing in the vehicle if something else just keeps on going.
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