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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro

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Comments

  • dlm1954dlm1954 Posts: 57
    The rear doors on these Astros are notorius for leaking, Sometimes mine will leak real bad and I'll put some kind of rubber conditioner on the gasket and it'll quit leaking sometime for a year or more. But there is a whole lot of other places it can leak to the roof from small rust holes you can't see because their on the top or the floorboard.I'd wait until the next hard rain and see if I couldn't see where it was coming from which is your best bet.DLM1
  • egillettegillett Posts: 14
    First thought is the seal at the top of the rear hatch or doors (close vehicle up and have someone run water on the roof while someone inside looks) and my second thought is if you were useing tha air conditionioning, check that the water from the AC is draining to the outside. If it isn't, run a flexable rod up through the drain hose from underneath and the pastie muck will flow out. When this is clogged, the water backs up and spills out under the floor rugs. :)
  • egillettegillett Posts: 14
    Make sure the rear bumper has not been "bumped" and is up against the bottom of the door. It doesn't take much! :cry:
  • hulscherhulscher Posts: 3
    Thank you for your input - we appreciate!
  • smrbsmrb Posts: 1
    I replaced the fuel pump and it wont pump gas out of the tank. I can hear it prime when turning key on.I unhooked fuel line at filter and had the key turned over but no fuel.The vehicle is also draining batteries.It ran when i parked it.The fuel pump i replaced was only a year old. If i can hear the pump and am not getting fuel what could be the problem.If i pour gas in carb the van runs until that gas is used.
    i have dropped the gas tank in my driveway 4 times looking for problems.Could i have hooked up the pump wrong?Where is the underhood fusebox/relay?
    Help ME please.I was hurt at work and can not afford to go to a mechanic.I need to sell this van badly.Thanks
  • hulscherhulscher Posts: 3
    GREAT! The seal idea is what my husband is planning on doing tonight. But do you know where the AC drain is located? Many thanks!

    :D
  • gawgadavegawgadave Posts: 1
    I have two rims with tires on them. You can email me directly for pictures and info. GawgaDave@yahoo.com

    Also, check with Discount Tires, they keep some in their warehouse system.. new they were $500+ used you could get around $200.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,069
    Hi all. First visit to this particular forum. I just purchased a 2004 Astro Cargo for work. It appears to be in fairly good shape. Clean and the cargo floor is hardly scratched indicating light usage... anyway, it came with a key fob attatched to the key, but it doesn't seem to work. I changed the battery and still no go. I am not certain if it has a keyless entry system or not, but the inclusion of the fob with the key makes me think so?

    It does have factory power locks (and windows-surprise on a cargo van), and I was curious how re-program the fob with out going to the dealer and paying them $80 bucks to perform what I am sure is a 2 minute job. Is there anyone out there that knows how to do this? I know on my Impala I just scroll through the settings on the radio, but this can still has the old 90's style Delco AM/FM only stereo. If I can get the fob to work that would be great, but if not, it's no big loss since I have never had a fob on my work vehicles before, but it would be nice to have it working...
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,069
    I just bought an Astro Cargo - 2wd. I specifically shied away from the AWD due to the horror stories I heard about with the AWD failing and the gearing causing the lugging...

    Is there a way to tell what gearing I have - whether it's 3.42 or 3.73??? The van seems to have really good get-up-and-go - even more so than my 4.3 powered S-10. It also has pretty good power on the highway. I'll look down and realize I am way over the limit. I haven't tried passing anybody yet and I actually haven't had it above 60 MPH yet, but the power around town has been more than adequate.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,069
    thx - I just looked and I have 3.42 gears... guess it's a good thing I only have 2wd :D
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,069
    I did some research and was able to figure out how to re-program the key fob. It appears that GM used this method for several vehicles that do not use the radio to set certain settings. (mid-late 90's and early 00's models)

    Step 1: Get in the vehicle and close all the doors.

    Step 2: Hold the unlock switch in the vehicle to the "unlock" position.

    Step 3: Turn the ignition ON, then OFF, then ON and then OFF

    Step 4: Release the unlock switch - the vehicle should lock and unlock the doors. This is to let you know the vehicle is in "program mode" and that you are ready to program.

    Step 5: Press and hold both the unlock and lock buttons on the key fob at the same time. After several seconds the vehicle should respond by locking and unlocking the doors. The key fob is now programed. Repeat this step with all the fobs (generally up to 4) that you wish to program.

    Step 6: Turn the ignition on and then off to exit program mode.

    If you have more than one fob you wish to program, you must program them all at the same time. These steps I found were actually for a Silverado, but I also found them for an Envoy too and so I tried them on my Astro and it worked. You must also make sure that the fob you are programing is meant for your vehicle. Meaning that even though a lot of GM fobs look exactly alike they have different codes. a fob from a Silverado may not work for an Astro... And then also make sure that your vehicle is actually equipped with a keyless entry system.

    So there you have it... I know I answered my own question, but I thought I would post it anyway since it might be of good use...
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,069
    There isn't one. There is nothing on the market today that is what the Astro/Safari were. You can either go to a smaller car-based minivan like the Caravan, Odysee, Sienna route which will have the seating needs taken care of, but as far as towing efficiently, I don't think they would really be up to the task.

    You can go the full size SUV route with the Tahoe/Expedition/Sequoia. Not as much cargo and seating as a minivan, but full sized towing capabilities. Gas mileage is much lower than a minivan, but it does tow well and Edmunds just finished a Tahoe longterm and were quite pleased with... when it was used as intended. You can go even larger with the Suburban/Expedition EL, but again you sacrifice fuel economy.

    Honestly, I think your best bet might be GM's new Lamda crossovers. The GMC Acadia, Saturn Outlook and Buick Enclave. They have as much cargo and passenger capacity as a minivan, but also the ability to tow. They are front drivers, but AWD is optional. But they are not a "van" and do not have sliding doors. PLus they don't carry the stigma of being a "mini-van" If you care about that. But they can cost well north of 30k. You might also look at the Mazda CX-9. Edmunds has just added both an Enclave and a CX-9 to thier fleet. The Mazda is smalller, which might be better, and the Enclave is cushier... With both vehicles in the fleet, you will be able to do some good comparing and see if either of these vehicles will fit your needs.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,069
    It seems that the door lock actuator on the sliding door of my van has quit working. The other day I noticed that it wasn't locking (or unlocking) when I hit the lock button on my remote. I thought it was a fluke but then today I did some testing and it doesn't lock/unlock with the power door lock switch either. All the other doors lock/unlock fine with either the keyless remote or the power switch. I did notice the other day when I originally noticed it not locking, that it would sometimes lock and sometimes not and sometimes it was reall slow to do so. The lock mechanism itself seems fine. It doesn't stick, or seem tight. No abnormal force it needed to lock the door. That is why I assume it is the actuator and not a stiff latch. I felt in there and didn't feel any broken parts, no can I hear anything inside the door when I do hit the lock or unlock switch.

    Does anyone know how to change this, or get to it? I took off the cover panel (its a cargo van so it doesn't have a plastic trim, just a metal plate secured by several screws), and I was able to partially see the actuator and feel the lock rod coming towards the lock, but it seems to be tucked back behind the locking mechanism for the latch. Almost seems impossible to access.

    One other thing I noticed is that the rear door handle seems very stiff. Like it needs to be adjusted. It shuts fine, but the handle takes quite a bit of force to open. The lock too seems to be stiff. But this lock does seem stiff. The key hole looks like it may have been jimmied at one time and could be to blame. The key still works in it, but if it's not too hard I would like to replace it. I WD-40'd it all and it works better. The locking mechanism doesn't seem so stiff, but the door latch still takes the same amount of force to open. It does however work most of the time with the power door locks, although it takes a couple of pushes of the actuator sometimes to get it to open. I haven't noticed whether the WD-40 I sprayed helps this at all since I just did it today and haven't had a real chance to test it out.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,069
    I'll check that and see... I remember looking at the contact points, but don't recall them being overly dirty. I just bought the thing and it was detailed before I took delivery, but this could have very easily been missed.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,069
    Seconding spikes comment - keep the Astro. But if you do want to replace it, then there is nothing out there that will compare to the Astro, but the closest thing to it would be GM Lamda SUV Crossovers...

    The GMC Acadia, Saturn Outlook, Buick Enclave. But with all of them costing near 30K and up, unless you really need one or want to spend that much, I say your Astro will have as much more utility and will ultimately cost you less (even with less MPG) than one of these will. With only 94K on your van, it should go easily to 200K with no major issues. If you are thinking to get something more fuel efficient, remember that the new vehicle will cost upwards of 30K. You probably won't recoupe that in gas savings. Even in repairs to keep the Astro on the road won't cost as much as the new vehicle.

    But if you do want to replace the Astro, the only thing I think that comes close to the both the utility, people hauling, towing, fuel economy, cargo space is the Lamda platform. I think the Acadia is the best, the Buick the cushiest and the Saturn is in between the two. The Acadia can haul more than a Tahoe (although not tow as much), get better fuel economy, and carry the same amount of people in better comfort. The dis-advantage to the Lamda is that it's tow rating isn't as much as the larger Tahoe or even the Astro. But it does have a respectable tow rating and if you don't tow frequently then the tow rating will be sufficient to meet your needs.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,069
    Sounds like it is either a stuck baffle or a disconnected vacumn. As far as fixing it, not sure. I'll do some research and see if it is self-serviceable.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,069
    It sounds like the motor is toast. The cost to have a shop put in a motor will probably equal what the van is worth. You may get lucky and only have a burnt valve and may only need top end replacement, but reason you lost oil pressure also needs to be adressed, so a new motor is probably the best and safest route.

    How many miles are on the vehicle and what do you use it for? If you use it regularly and for it's intended purpose- hauling people around, for work as a contractor (is it a cargo van?), towing and such it would be best to fix it and keep it depending on the reliability of the rest of the vehicle's parts. The cost of fixing it may indeed be less than a different vehilce and provide many thousand more miles of service. But if it has so many miles that only rigorous maintenance is keeping it on the road and is now equaling a car payment a month, then you might be better replacing it with something more reliable. Don't just fix it a keep it for sentimtal reasons ("...I've replaced a bunch of things over the years...") The vehicle is not a sick child and not worth pouring more money into it if it would better spent elsewhere. When it all comes down to it, the vehicle is just an appliance and when it has lived it's useful life, junk it and get something else.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,069
    first let me clear up some confusion about my name... you stated "thebigirl" when it is really thebigal - meant to be read the-big-al :shades:

    anyways, not sure if I can help on the starter issue and it's a bummer that you have such a lemoned vehicle... I just bought my Astro. It's the 4th vehicle with the 4.3 V6 drivetrain, 2nd Astro and all of them I have been very happy with.

    A few years ago I had a '95 S-10 with the 4.3 that started exhibiting intermittent starting problems. It wouldn't click, but it would grind. It wasn't the starter hitting the flywheel grind it was inside the starter somehwere. It would do just what your van is doing. It would be fine for a few starts and then it would have issues for a bit and then it would be fine. I traced everything, checked all my wires, made sure all the corrosion was cleaned if I found any and replaced a couple of cables too I think just to make sure the corrosion hadn't gotten inside the cables.

    Nothing helped and finally the starter just quit working. I had to push start the vehicle everytime I wanted to start it. I decided I best just replace the starter. After I did that I had no problems getting the vehicle started. After anylisis of the problem, I determined that there was a broken tooth or a worn gear inside the starter. When that particular tooth lined up properly, it wouldn't enage the rest of the starter and grind. Or so I determined. What might be happening to you is there might be a bad connection in the solenoid that sometimes works, then the connection is broken and then it won't work unitl the connection is made again. There could be enough of a connection that it will work, but the connection is so fragile that it doesn't take much to break, or make it. It could be inside the solenoid and be non-servicable. So if you have done everything except replace the starter - like making sure the cable are good, that there is no corrosion at the batter, the battery is indeed good, the connections at the starter are good and there is no corrosion there either, then the next step is to replace the starter.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,069
    Not sure how to phrase this question, but I'll do my best.

    I am looking to see how or if there is a way to program how my vehicle locks/unlocks the doors when it is placed in drive or park, how the lights flash when I hit the lock button on my fob remote and also how the horn sounds when the lock or unlock button is hit.

    My vehicle is a 2004 Chevy Astro Cargo Van with a keyless entry system. I have figured out how to program new remotes, but I also wonder if there is a way to manage the other settings. I know that on my Impala I just use the radio to set all these settings, but my Astro has the old style (90's style) AM FM head unit. I'm almost postive there is a way to personalize these settings, but I'm not sure how to do it beyond programng the key fobs to work with the vehicle. Anyone out there know how to do this?
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,069
    just read your post and it brought a couple of questions to my mind... I currently own an '04 Astro with almost 90K on it and an '01 S-10 with over 110K on it. The Astro gets about 15 MPG average (this is with ladder racks over the top) and the S-10 gets about 16-17 now. It used to get almost [the s-10] 19 in town and I could push it to 24 on the highway. Both idle exactly the same which is a little rough, not really chugging, but a little rougher than I am used to. The S-10 didn't used to idle so rough. They both have the 4.3 drivetrain, which I understand, aside from a little different programing to give the Astro version a little more power, is identical.

    Would this type of problem be fixed by the procedure you just descibed?? I haven't been throwing codes, nor do I seem at a lack of power, but these two vehicles provide my livelihood and I want to make sure they run well into the 100K.... I would like to make sure they make it to 200K.
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