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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro

1787981838486

Comments

  • n5445n5445 Posts: 28
    Ive got about 176k miles on my astro 2wd and have been adding supplements to the fluid since 75k. Fluid my look fine, but its effectiveness my be little to none.

    Throw some tranny slip-fix in there and see what happens. I personally use Lucas transmission fix to top it off regularly.
  • fixer5fixer5 Posts: 5
    :( hi anyone can tel mi wat is the problem make shifting from first to second gear kiking and takes to long then shift jump to secon gear on mi chevy astro van? thenks josef
  • pwelkapwelka Posts: 1
    I got a 99 GMC Safari. Since about one week the rear upper door want open. It seems like some kind of electrical problem ´cause there is no sound after pressing the door button. There is some kind of lock mechanism inside which normally have to move both strings inside to unlock the door. the mechanism is working fine, I connect 9V battery and the mechanism moved. Is just problem with the button. I also sprayed WD40 an conntact cleaner inside. Nothing works. I checked already all fuses and relays-all fine. Maybe someone had the same issue. PLZ help.
  • bob4374bob4374 Posts: 3
    I have a 200 GMC Safari 140K miles on it. We had one snow storm drop 13 inches of snow on us in Indy. The van did great in it but every since, when ever it rains or is wet out It wont run. I've changed the fuel filter, dis. cap, rotor, wires, plugs, O2 sensors, and cat. converter when the peoblem first started and it was spitting out the P0420 code one week after that big snow storm melted. I had the fuel pump changed for the 3rd time while it was still under warrenty about 1 month before the storm. Now it's stranded out in front of my house it has spark all the way to the dis cap but nothing from there. I tested the Cam Poss. sensor last night by backprobing the connector with the connector attached to the sensor and I got a pulse reading so I guess that sensor is ok. This is supposed to be the last wet day untill this weekend. So it might run tommoro
  • egillettegillett Posts: 14
    Sounds like you have spent a lot of time and money. Have you put any "dry gas" in it? Moisture / dampness could be the problem. Good luck.
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Posts: 57
    I would check for a bent exhaust pipe, my wife caught my tail pipe backing out of my driveway in all that snow and tore it off. If it had bent it,it would not have run right or at all. If you have fire intermittently at the distributor it also could be a bad wire on the coil that's not getting a good connection. I just replaced one on my motor home last year from sitting, the wire connectors had a coating of corrosion which attracts moisture. But that code is usually associated with an exhaust especially converter problem, I would check for bent pipes first; a bent pipe would play havoc with the O2 sensor I would think and I've seen it before. Their's also a main wiring bulkhead that plugs into the fuse box through the firewall that sits behind the battery the main ignition wire pulls so much power it will melt in that bulkhead and loose connection in damp weather, I've had a lot of problems with that on my ASTRO, it should have been hard wired but about every vehicle made is the same way, the wiring bulkhead plugs into the firewall into the back of the fuse box.
    GOOD LUCK DLM1
  • asullyasully Posts: 1
    I had this same problem. I ended up changing the coil and the ignition module and it fixed the problem.

    As soon as it was damp outside if wouldn't start. I hope this will fix yours.
  • xander3xander3 Posts: 1
    Hi.I`m the 94 GMC Safari owner.
    For a last couple of month i`m experiencing a rough idle problem.When engine starts RPM goes very high and when i`m shifting from P car jumps forward like crazy.Since I`m from Europe it almost impossible to find a good mechanic for an american car here.I changed an Idle Air Control Valve since the old one was dead but it didn`t help much.Now when engine starts it runs smoother but when i shift to D - same story and when i shift back to P the RPM goes even higher than before.
    Can anyone help me?Thank you.
  • spike99spike99 Posts: 239
    .

    My previous 2001 AWD Safari van did that. re: It too had consistant idle. My local mechanic investigated and discovered its throttle body was "gummed up" with too much dirt and crud. He cleaned this area with engine cleaner spray and it worked great afterwards. As a suggestion, remove your van's inner cabin engine cover (aka: "dog house") and do a good visual inspection of the engine's throttle control body area. If needed, do clean this engine area with lots of engine cleaner stuff as well.

    Hope this helps...

    .
  • minjonminjon Posts: 1
    I've read through previous posts but none seem to exactly match my problem. It is:
    1) Intermittent crank/no crank condition.
    2) May crank 6 times successfully, then no crank condition.
    3) After leaving the vehicle overnight it will crank 1 or more times, then no crank condition.
    4) Battery, cables, connections ok (including at starter).
    5) When no crank, I do have lights, hear fuel pump run to pressurize fuel lines, etc.
    6) When no crank, the solenoid is silent (no click, click, click).
    7) When does crank will immediately start engine
    8) Replaced the ignition switch already.
    9) Starter/solenoid assembly about 1-1/2 years old.
    10) Is there a mechanical relay between the ignition switch and the solenoid? If so, where is it located?
    11) I have purchased a new starter, but hesitate to install it if there is a bad relay. This Astro does not have a fuse block under the hood as later models did.
    12) What have I missed???
    Thanks!
  • dsieverdsiever Posts: 5
    Hi Everyone,
    I have found the problem with this van and the bucking issue that it was having. First, I would have to say, that there were actually two problems. I replaced the air mass meter (found a brand new one on ebay in January for $60). This did correct the issue that I was having with bucking at 55 mpg or faster, however, I was still having a problem with starting the van. Up until about 2 yrs ago it started on the first crank everytime (I've owned this van for over 120k miles and 5 yrs)--however since then it has always been that I had to give it one crank, turn the key back then hit it again and it would always start. Last week, however, the van began to miss very badly on one particular morning and it then stalled and would not restart. It turns out that there was no gas flowing--the fuel filter was good--problem was that the fule pump was shot. I replaced that and it starts like it did when I first bought it--on the first crank, everytime.
  • navybluenavyblue Posts: 4
    I'm pulling code P0152 high voltage on Bank 2 sensor 1. Any ideas on what would cause that? Also how in the world would you get a 7/8 wrench in there to remove it? All books call for three sensors, 2 upstream and one downstream of the convertor but the drawing I'm looking at clearly identifies three upstream and is verified on my van? ^*$&# Any experience? Thanks
  • mauialiimauialii Posts: 2
    I just went thru the same thing.All 3 were the same # Go to a Bosch web site fornd on Goggle and get the #.Call Advance or Auto and they will match the low price with a print out.Takes a special socket with an opening on 1 side.Got mine at Harbor Freight fo $4.99.
  • Steve_01Steve_01 Posts: 42
    If your 97 Safari is like my 97 Astro you might want to take a look at the guide that I very recently posted on this forum with a link to some photos I took during the disassembly/reassembly process.

    http://www.carspace.com/guides/

    My 97 Astro has two "upstream" O2 sensors, and two "downstream" sensors. The first of the two downstream sensors is the one just before the catalytic converter. Each set of sensors has a different type of connector on it. I didn't bother trying to get to the sensors with the exhaust in place because I was replacing the cat as well. As near as I can tell, your best bet is to drop the exhaust down by removing the three bolts on each side that connect the pipes to the exhaust manifolds. You don't need to completely remove the exhaust, but just drop it down in order to access the sensors. The thing to watch out for is that one or more of the studs could break off while loosening the nuts. This is not all that uncommon. If one does break, then your in for a headache trying to remove the broken stud. Have a back-up plan ready. Plan for the worst, hope for the best. Good luck.
  • navybluenavyblue Posts: 4
    Excellent documentation. I unbolted the exhaust at the manifold, screw jacked the tranny to hold in place, removed the "cross brace" and dropped the exhaust to get decent access to the sensor. A couple of the bolts were a little tricky but all in all, not a bad job. A whole lot of work for a two minute replacement of the actual O2 sensor. Putting it on a lift was a great help. Thank you Navy MWR! Thanks for the help.
  • navybluenavyblue Posts: 4
    I did the same thing with Advance Auto and got a military discount on top! Life is good. I could get the socket on but couldn't get any leverage so I dropped the exhaust with little difficulty. Thanks for the tip.
  • Steve_01Steve_01 Posts: 42
    Love to hear a success story. Good for you. Nice to have access to a lift, wish I could say the same. Go Navy!
  • rayoconrayocon Posts: 1
    I'm trying to replace the passenger side inside door handle on an 03 Astro. I've gotten down to the broken handle and there is a metal pin going down the center. I need to remove this pin in order to install the new handle. Problem is there are 2 pieces of metal protruding at the bottom (like a cotter pin) which prevents me from removing the pin. Anyone know how to remove this? Thanks.
  • What is the easiest way to replace the idler pulley on 95 Safari? It is the pulley that is right below the alternator, and the tension pulley. Hope I'm giving the correct name.
  • The eastiest way is to pay a mechanic to do the job for you while you are having a beer :)
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