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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro

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Comments

  • rbritlandrbritland Member Posts: 11
    I have a 1993 AstroEXT AWD that I bought new and have 102,000 miles on it now. I have written to this forum before, but have not found a solution to the problem of the dutch doors not opening. I have learned over the Labor Day weekend through my own personal trouble shooting and thought others might benefit for what I believe is the probable cause of this problem. I generally refer to Hayes repair manuals, but the dutch doors are not covered in this book.

    In the right, rear compartment, where the jack is stored, there is a black plastic box (approx. 3.5"X2.5"X1") with a wiring harness plugged into it. I carefully opened this box and found a small circuit board containing two relays. One relay activates the solenoid to release the glass hatch and unlock the right dutch door. The other relay locks the right dutch door about 2 seconds after the the hatch is closed. The second relay had blackened contact points from arcing. It seemed that if the second relay failed to lock the right dutch door, then the first relay would not activate the solenoids to release the glass hatch. I carefully cleaned the contacts on both relays and also cleaned the the circuit board contacts where the wiring harness plugs into it. I have not had a failure since I did this, but if I do, I will replace the entire black box. I hope this helps all who have experienced this problem. Please write if you find the solution to this problem to be anything other than this.
  • cschmieg1cschmieg1 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 94 Safari w/149,000 miles on it. The last couple of months it has developed a problem starting, after it has been running for a long period of time or even during short distances. It will start after setting for about a 1/2 hour. It also has a real foul odor during start ups and idling. The engine runs rough during idol. I think it might be the EGR but not sure..any suggestions would be appreciated..
  • mrnimmomrnimmo Member Posts: 271
    Like rotten eggs? Catalytic convertor. O2 sensors probably also bad (and may have caused the cat to go south)?
  • rbritlandrbritland Member Posts: 11
    To posting #429 jeep_cj8: I have had my AWD Astro for than 9-1/2 years. The AWD option is fabulous and money well spent. It is great for pulling a trailer and getting around in the snow. With 102,000 miles, I have never had a single problem with it. I have a long (1/4 mile) driveway that is gravel and uphill. A brand new Ford F-150 could not pull my trailer up the driveway in dry weather, but my Astro AWD pulls it up without a problem, even when it's snow covered.
  • jakeanzajakeanza Member Posts: 2
    I am looking at buying a 95 Passenger Astro Van and taking the seats out and using it as a Cargo Van. Is there any difference between the Passenger and Cargo Astro Van in terms of suspension etc????
  • astroltmanastroltman Member Posts: 2
    Much appreciated for your quick feedback. Thanks to you, I now a Manual for our 97 Astro. I could not find any info on re-enabling the DRL. I am taking the Astro back to the dealer to have it repaired.

    Thanks again,

    AstroLTMan
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    One of these days maybe the manufacturers will put their factory manuals on-line as well. That'd be nice! Plus the dealers would make lots more money fixing stuff after amateurs like me read a few pages and start messing around, LOL.

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • dahveed02dahveed02 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Chevy Astro Van LT 2wd, and in one year I've had to replace the Stock CD/Radio under warranty 4 times. Chevy won't upgrade the CD/Radio to a different unit, nor will they replace it with an aftermarket unit.

    The replacement radios they're installing are defective, and Chevy Customer Service doesn't care!

    Please help!

    David
  • coonhoundcoonhound Member Posts: 174
    I didn't get any response to post #394 so I just went ahead and removed the engine cover and inspected the butterfly/throttle valve. There was a lot of carbon on both sides of the valve. Sprayed the valve down with carburetor cleaner and it sure feels good not to have the jump starts, lurching, etc.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I guess I should have piped up since that's a pretty common problem with '99 and newer Quests. But it's usually described as more of a hesitation and sticky throttle off the line rather than lurching. The cure is the same - clean out the carbon in the throttle body. Thanks for reporting back!

    Steve
    Host
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  • 67firebirdconv67firebirdconv Member Posts: 5
    I own a 1998 Astro AWD. It's my first GM product since 1985. I've owned it since March 02 and if not for this problems which resemble "gremlins", I wouldn't be writing to this column. The problem with this van is at any random time, the van fires, then shuts down. I shut off the ignition and retry. Sometimes I get lucky and it will start on the next few tries. But there are times when I have to wait hours until it finally fires. When it does start, it's like nothing happened. Barely a turn of the crank and it fires up. I've replaced the fuel filter, used injector cleaner with still these intermittent symptoms. Last night I spent 3 hours trying to start it. I left it overnight and it fired right up the next morning, as if nothing happened. Those computer code readers indicate nothing is wrong, even when it doesn't start. I really like the versatility of this van, but it's getting to the point where it is frustrating to continue owning it with this problem (it has no other problems, it works very well when it is running). Any suggestions from anyone else who may have heard of this strange problem? Please shoot them this way, I hate to get rid of what I would consider an excellent vehicle if it weren't for this problem. Thanks...Bill
  • coonhoundcoonhound Member Posts: 174
    I don't have any answers, but, my elder brother always had an answer for a starting problem. To quote, it ain't getin no combustion.

    Does the 98 have the GM security key. I have starting problems occasionally with Oldsmobile's with the security key. But is usually a minor inconvienance.

    There are two things to check to start isolating the problem.
    Is it not getting fuel or spark? Or possibly neither.

    It is a strange one in that the check engine light doesn't come on.

    After checking for fire and fuel.
    My approach would be check plug in wiring connectors by unplugging and plugging back in. Possibly a corroded or bad connection.

    Just an opinion.
    Good luck
  • 67firebirdconv67firebirdconv Member Posts: 5
    This problem happened again today, it fires up then shuts down. I can smell fuel being burned from the exhaust. After reading through all the messages on this bulletin board, I noticed message 174 that is somewhat similar to my problem. A strange thing is the security light blinks three times after the van won't start. I have talked to supposed GM expert mechanics and when diags were run when I had it in the shop, the codes indicated no problem with the Passlock security system. On the Passlock system, it reads the teeth on the key, it has no electronic chip model embedded on the key. They also told me the van wouldn't fire at all if the security system was activated. The fuel pump wouldn't run (which it does when the key is turned). Today I left the van and came back to it later, and once again, it fired up immediately after the first turn of the starter. When it starts, it runs so smooth, you can barely tell it's running. It's kinda funny, the owners manual advises that if the van won't start and the security light blinks, shut the ignition off and retry....I'm closer to looking for a new truck, or a beater with none of these electronic gizmos that make it difficult to troubleshoot without a $20,000 computer program....
  • cschmieg1cschmieg1 Member Posts: 4
    I too have the same problem.Van starts in morning and after sitting for about an hour.I could not hear fuel pump kick in either.I took my van to well known dealer yesterday and he put it on the machine..It was the fuel pump..I am dropping the tank and doing it myself next weekend..Parts are only $40..Dealer wanted $300 to fix..I had to change the fuel pump at 94,000(which dealer did. Now i have 150,000 on my 94 Safari..I also have a bad motor vibration..dealer informed me i needed 2 new motor mounts..I too will change them only, $11 a piece..Good luck and hope that fixes your problem.
  • 67firebirdconv67firebirdconv Member Posts: 5
    I appreciate the help you all have extended to me on my Astro problem. My fuel pump is still working as I can hear it when the key is turned on. Also, when I had the code reader on it, it indicated no problems with the fuel pump, although I'm not sure if it can check anything besides an on and off condition....does the code reader measure fuel pressure/flow? Anyhow, I have two possible causes now (see msg #174 and now yours). I wish this van was as easy as troubleshooting my 67 Firebird.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    You may already know this, but let me give you some hints. Obviously, get as much fuel out of the tank as possible before you start. Then, take your jumper cables and clamp one end, red and black, to a known good earth ground. If you are working in the driveway, drive a piece of rebar or such well into the ground and clamp to it. Then take one of the other end clamps, say red, and clamp it to the frame of the vehicle. Take the other clamp, black, and clamp it to the gas tank. This way, you cannot have a voltage potential between the gas tank and the van when you seperate them, and therfore, no spark. Since the tires of the vehicle insulate it from the ground, the clamp to the frame will offer the added protection of bleeding off any charge on the body of the vehicle.

    I know you probably already knew this, but any spark when removing a gas tank is not going to turn out good. Be careful.

    Jim
  • hemetceshemetces Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Safari, the "service engine soon" light comes and stays on the moment I fire the engine and starts blinking as soon as speed goes higher than 30mph. Autozone diagnostic shows "O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction" and "cylinder 5 misfire detected". Don't have problem firing the engine, but it does vibrate while idle. The sensor part seems obvious, but I am clueless about the cylinder issue. Any ideas?
  • coonhoundcoonhound Member Posts: 174
    The code sensor picks up misfire almost immedietly
    I store my 97 a lot and get misfire on startup after 1 to 2 months.

    There are three (3) count em O2 sensors at $70.00 per ea. at Auto Zone. Which one????? good question. But if you have 70,000 miles or so on the van What's $200.00 or so.

    I would also buy the special socket at about $7.00 and go to work. The anti sieze is on the new Bosch O2 sensors.

    All three are easy access from underneath. But a little van elevation is recommended.

    The heart of the system is the O2 sensors at GM. Let an O2 sensor malfunction and GM shuts you down. If you have been using premium fuel. Shame on you. the fuel pressure regulator tires out. the assembly including all injectors is about $550.00 material cost. The injector system is an assembly. The problem component is the fuel pressure regulator. But it is replaced by removing the top intake manifold, there are two, upper and lower.

    Welcome to the wonderful world of modern technoligy.
  • marcb4marcb4 Member Posts: 9
    GM has a TSB out (00-06-04-003A, dated December 2001) that describes the misfire/rough idle and SES light problems. It's due to a stuck poppet valve in the fuel injection. The service manager I talked to said that the fix (which is a cleaning procedure) is covered by GM up to 100K miles, since it's a known problem on the V6 4.3 and V8 5.0 and 5.7 engines. He recommended using different fuel brands (switching brands on each fillup) and adding a fuel injector cleaner every 5K miles or so.
  • coonhoundcoonhound Member Posts: 174
    I have that problem when the van is not started for a month or two. But it's OK after warming up a bit. And I reset the computer and go on my way.

    I have been hesitant to use extra injector cleaner due to the plastic injectors and the known problems with the fuel pressure regulator. But perhaps the cleaner is the solution to all the problems. That would be wonderful. I know that California fuel, and premium fuel cause fuel system problems.

    Anyway, I'll try some injector cleaner and see if it helps.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    GM lowers Safari, Astro base price



    Steve

    Host

    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

  • mrnimmomrnimmo Member Posts: 271
    Moderately priced? Except that Dodge's fullsize van is only 20,481, GM's is 23,074, and Ford's 22,030 according to TMV. All seat eight just like the Astro, have nice headroom like the Astro, and get the same MPG and towing capability with a V6. To me, Astro's only selling point is AWD and that it is a minivan that retains some true utility (durability of body on frame construction, towing capability, cargo capacity even with the back seat being used by passengers) while not driving like a Taurus or Camry. (I like the ride of a real truck or van-- I know the soccer moms don't.)
  • 67firebirdconv67firebirdconv Member Posts: 5
    I am posting this to those to those with a possible TBI V-6 firing then shutting down. Today I had the starting problem reappear, but this time the SES light stayed on when I finally got my van started. A quick trip to AutoZone hit the jackpot. Their error reader indicated "P0108, MAP sensor circuit high." The MAP adjusts the fuel flow pressure for ignition based on the load of your engine, and it is regulated by the engine's vacuum. From what the technicians told me even a minute vacuum leak will cause an error. Anyhow, after taking the shroud off inside the van, the MAP is easily accessible on the top of the engine. After resetting it both electrically and physically (it was a little loose), the SES light went out and the van fired with no problem on the first crank. Saved me $42 for now, but time will tell.

    Hope this helps someone in the future who has these problems, it's a cheaper fix than a fuel pump replacement.
  • bicyclist1bicyclist1 Member Posts: 1
    Having a possibly intermittent problem with my front wheels not engaging on a 99 AWD Safari. At times I'd swear the AWD is working, driving up long,steep loose gravel driveways without missing a beat. But some times my rear wheel will spin and I don't go anywhere, like on a patch of sloping wet grass. Took it to a dealer who plugged in his computer(scanner) under the dash to read the "engine" codes. At first he said I had no front wheel sensors, then found they were there but not picking up any signal. He took it for a test drive and came back saying only the rear wheels were engaged. He put the van back on the lift, started it up, and just the rear wheels were turning. Then he "cleared" or reset,the front wheel sensors on the computer/scanner and presto, all 4 wheels were turning . He decided everything was OK, but couldn't really explain it. I drove home to my favorite slippery spot and the rear wheel just spun, with no front wheels engaging.
    Went to a 2nd dealer, don't know exactly what he did, but called me over at the end to show all 4 wheels turning up on the lift. He claims the front wheel sensors the other dealer looked at were for the ABS brakes and were not related to the AWD.
  • bapetersbapeters Member Posts: 1
    I just had to replace the fuel pressure regulator on my 2000 Astro with only 42,000 miles. Has anyone else seen a similar problem? It alarms me that this type of repair was needed at such low miles. Is this a known problem with the 4.3 liter engine? I am hoping that Chevy will "help" with the costs of these repairs. Any feedback would be appreciated.
  • coonhoundcoonhound Member Posts: 174
    Yes! the fuel pressure regulator is a common problem. Especially if using premium fuel, California fuel, and possibly the re formulated fuels with MTBE, or Ethanol. This has been happening since the first CPI injection system in either 95 or 96. One would think that GM would have corrected the problem by 2000.
  • chris705chris705 Member Posts: 4
    Just finding this site the other day and imeadiatly read all 460 some posts, I can't help but ofer my thoughts on numerous complaints of the driving postion of an Astro/Safari van. I am rather tall, 6'3" with long legs and I love the way my van fits me. I drive with my knees almost touching the dash and the front edge of my seat raised as high as it goes (power seats) and the back of the seat as low as it goes. This gives me good support under my thighs with is helpful on long trips. I also drive an hour to work each way. My seat back is very upright also, almost like sitting in a straight back dinning chair. I find this very comfortable you might want to try it for a while.
  • ganze1ganze1 Member Posts: 7
    Has anyone had any problems with their rotors warping? I have a 1997 Safari AWD and have had problems with brand new rotors and pads warping in less than month. Any help or suggestions are welcomed.
  • triumphertriumpher Member Posts: 58
    ganze1 - I had this with my 98 Safari shortly after I got it (about 10.000 miles after new). I complaint at the dealership - they wanted to convince me that this is just normal -, and after insisting on fixing it ,they exchanged the rotors and everything is fine since (now I have about 55.000 miles on them). It seems that some rotors are OK and others not. There might be a problem in the tolerances of their quality specs.
  • lostandfound86lostandfound86 Member Posts: 3
    I own a 1988 Safari SLE. Does anyone else have a problem with the instrument panel dimmer? The bracket on mine breaks with a light amount of pressure. The dealer has replaced the bracket at least 5 times. Is there any other fix for this?
  • kpcoppakpcoppa Member Posts: 1
    My '94 Astro with 135k miles has developed a nasty growling type vibration when started and in any gear except neutral. Sitting at a stop light you can really feel it. I took it to a reputable tranny shop (dealers terrify me), and he couldn't tell if it was in the tranny or in the engine, i.e. flywheel. In neutral it doesn't shake the car at all. Am considering running it until it becomes so bad it is more obvious but that could be a long time. Any similar episodes out there?
  • asmdsmasmdsm Member Posts: 1
    We have a 93 Safari with 181,000 on it, and in the past month it began to vibrate in the same manner. It is due to go in for service next week, so we'll see. There is still some vibration at a particular rpm, even in neutral, but it is much worse when in gear. Isn't as noticeable at higher speeds.
  • mmarianimmariani Member Posts: 1
    Sometimes when I turn on the headlight switch the instrument panel lights do not come on. All the other dashboard lights come on (A/C,heater control, radio, rear A/C switch, etc.). I suppose there is a marginal electrical connection somewhere but I'm not sure where to look. The lights will sometimes either work right away, or will come on when I hit a bump on the road or release the parking brake. Can someone suggest a physical location to check? I don't like driving at night without knowing my speed and other engine info.
  • randyolsenrandyolsen Member Posts: 1
    Does the Astro/Safari have enough headroom in the interior for a passenger in a wheel chair. I would like to find a mini van that a wheelchair passenger could ride in without having to lower the floor. Along the same line, how difficult is it to remove the 2nd row captains seats and the third row seat?
  • richh4richh4 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I have the same problem! No heat to the rear heater on my 1992 AWD Safari....I want to install a manual shut off.Tried to follow the vacuum line from the splitter/ joint box near tranny to no avail! ...Any help from the others who experienced this or who fixed with a manual stop cock???? ...Help....Please????...Thanxs !
  • mmack6mmack6 Member Posts: 1
    Having the same problems as described by 67firebirdconv Post #496 - can you tell me exactly where the vacuum line routes to?
    I have located the broken section laying on top of the intake manifold, however have no clue as to the connecting points.

    Thanks in advance.
  • sindlusindlu Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a new vann in aug.2002.TENDAYS after i bought it the rear brakes were making a thumping noise.I too it in and they said it eas rust, from sittin in the lot. one week later the noise was back again only worse, again I took it in. This time they said the brakes were OUT OF ROUD,,,whatever,,, two weeks later the soud was back,,much more prnounced, this time they said thebrakes were ou of round again and the would fix it like new. I SAID IT IS NEW. there was only 500 miles on it. THEY WOULD NOT GIVE ME NEW BRAKES. ALSO ,,,DOES ANYONE HEAR A HIGH PITCHED FREQUENCY NOISE COMMING FROM INSIDE THE DASH??? IT DRIVES ME CRAZY,,, my friend has the same van, he also has the dash noise..I am now taking it to another dealer..HOPING THE CAN FIX IT. ANY SUGGESTIONS????
  • coonhoundcoonhound Member Posts: 174
    The noise is probably one of the heating and air vacuum motors with a small leak.
  • redcamredcam Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2003 Safari and am hoping for a long smooth relationship with the van.
  • libertycatlibertycat Member Posts: 593
    These vans are virtually unchanged since their 1984 intorductions. There is really no reason to buy them.
  • coonhoundcoonhound Member Posts: 174
    Tow a boat, Tow an RV travel trailer, tow a utility trailer, and any thing else you might think of.

    Enjoy the room inside and load it up, if you have enough stuff.

    Comparing the mid sized GM vans to the FWD mini vans is like comparing apples and grapefruit. Hook a 5500 pound travel trailer behind one of the mini haulers and see what happens!
  • topseatopsea Member Posts: 47
    After a million miles in mini vans, I'll continue buying Astros or Safaris. I've run Dodge and Plymouths in the past and if you need a big car they fit the bill. I load my Astro with almost twice the cargo that I could with the Chrysler products. The Astros last as long if not longer than the Chrysler products. I used to put about 300,000 before retiring them but I don't go quite that long these days. My Astro's usually go to about 200,000 before retirement. By the way the last 3 have been AWDs. As they used to say about Timex, "They just keep on ticking".
  • biggrbiggr Member Posts: 9
    i finally got around to messin with the rear heat.i found two heater control valves on the passenger side by the a/c box.the one on top has an electrical connection and a vacuum connection.i guess once it receives the signal it opens up,which then would send the vacuum to open the second valve,which leads to the rear.what i found was i was getting the electric it wasnt sending the vacuum so i just put direct vacuum to it for now.WHAT a difference.i dont even turn on the front heat as the rear works better.
  • biggrbiggr Member Posts: 9
    i,ve read the past posts on tranny trouble beginning with the harsh 1-2 shift.i have had this problem for about the last month now.the other night it start slipping and shifting erratic and the service engine light came on.is this the point of no return or is there a quick fix as i may trade this sucker in!!!i havent driven it since it happened so i dont know how it is now,but the 1-2 shift started when it was cold and got better when it warmed up.it also started having downshift/upshift full throttle problems too.
  • jj409jj409 Member Posts: 1
    Has anybody else had problems with stripped shaft on the seat recline levers on Astro' from, 94 on?. On mine with 7 pass seating 3 are broken out of four and its not the lever itself but the shaft on recline mechanism that the square breaks off.
  • biggrbiggr Member Posts: 9
    on my 99,the passenger one broke once already.got it fixed under warranty along with passenger door lock actuator which has stopped working again along with the lock switch on the drivers side.also brake booster is starting to leak.had to replace this on my 96.cost 150 from junkyard.600 from dealer.needless to say,time to use extended warranty.
  • juliansjulians Member Posts: 42
    I have a 1991 Astro CL which I bought used two years ago. The odometer reads 78,000 miles which hopefully is close. When switching between Drive (around town) and OD the odometer sometimes stops working. It has even gone backward (which is cool). I have replaced usual stuff for this age and mileage (water pump, alternator, idler arm, o2sensor, fuel filter and other small stuff)
    When I start the van quite a lot of smoke blows out, but then it seems to run fine. From reading the posts I figure it is valve seals? Is this any thing to worry about?
    The front foot of the frame is rusting. The guy at the shop says this is nothing to worry about for a few years, but it does bug me. Should I spray some anti rust paint stuff on the frame, or just figure it would take years to cause any real damage?
    I sometimes think about new vans, but this one seems to far exceed its "trade-value" in "real life value". It need paint as it is flaking in spots, I just wax it and hope it keeps working. It has big sticker stripes that look like some strange Starsky and Hutch nightmare. My kids affectionally call it "the man van". They are too young be bothered about old or new car stuff.
  • juliansjulians Member Posts: 42
    Actually my van has 87,000 miles. Maybe actually around 100,000 miles. Good van.
  • dang3dang3 Member Posts: 5
    I bought a new Astro in 1995. I was so pleased over the years that I bought another one 2 weeks ago.
    Chevy redesigned the sliding door lock on the 2003 Astro vans. IT FEELS LIKE IT LOCKS IN THE OPEN POSITION, BUT IT WILL CLOSE WITH ONLY FINGER PUSHING PRESSURE APPLIED AT THE REAR OF THE DOOR. WHOEVER OWNS ONE, PLEASE, PLEASE!!! HAVE SOMEONE HOLD THE DOOR OPEN WHILE ENTERING OR EXITING. IF ON A HILL THE DOOR WILL SLAM FAST AND HARD SHUT.
    PLEAE BE CAREFUL.
    I contacted NHSA and filed a complaint with GM. The complaint number is #1-697668689. The dealer admitted that the new design sucks , but he cannot adjust or tweak it beyond the established GM Manual requirements. i understand his position.
    Please be careful out there.
  • obus100obus100 Member Posts: 7
    Hi

    I had a 2000 AWD Safari and just traded it in on an order out Red/Tan 2003 AWD Astro. The 2003 Chev Astros and GMC Safaris are Clones: same price, same features, same colors. Best buy is who has the best price.
    They are made on the same Baltimore assembly line, just depends on what day it is. Differences are grille trim and some labels/badges.

    They are going to make them at least through 2005.

    They took out the second seat fore-aft adjustment so it is now impossible to get into the 3rd seat. I am having the dealer find me a previous year adjusting mechanism.

    You cannot sit upright in an Astro/Safari in a wheel chair and there is no legal way to secure it on a factory model. Removing the two seats is a two person job. Do it alone and you will scratch up the trim and the vehicle. They are REALLY clumsy. I added rubber strips to the rear sill so it doesn't get all scratched up.

    The high pitch whistle is likely the alternator bearing. They have a new alternator from 2003 onward (previous years DO NOT FIT) and the bearing on mine made a high pitch faint squeal/whistle that came and went until the dealer finally pinned it down.

    They also don't supply the under passenger seat storage box any more on LS even though the factory specs call out that item as included.

    I have installed aftermarket wheel wheel chrome, front and rear spoilers, mud flaps in rear, (vehicle has factory running boards so you cannot put mud flaps in front), moved the front seats back 2" for more leg room, put in a center console for arm support (factory arm rests are junk).

    Cheers

    Dennis O
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