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2010 Chevy Equinox Problems

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  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    I doubt there is a car on the market that don't have a electronic (computer) controled transmission. There are millions and millions of cars on the road and most operate well. You just got a little bad luck. As emissions get stricker and stricker more and more electronics are going to be on cars. Only way around it is getting a old car from the 60's.
  • jrcketjrcket Posts: 9
    Well I don't doubt that everything now is electronic and there are alot of bugs that affect the cars. I guess I expected more from the Equinox because I own a 2002 Suburban which is a trouble free car, not one problem on it till today.

    I guess I can chalk this one up to bad luck and wait and see if this will happen again
  • colt_herocolt_hero Posts: 104
    I bought my '97 Taurus wagon brand new at the beginning of '98. About a year or so later, the transmission started doing some weird shifting while my wife was driving it. Speedometer would drop to zero while cruising on the highway, cruise control wouldn't work, and the car would shift up and down erratically. After a couple of test drives, it happened for me. Check Engine light came on, code showed bad vehicle speed sensor ($35). Changed it myself and the car's been fine for 12 years now.

    Same problem occurred with my Dad's '97 Taurus sedan, so it was a bad batch of sensors. It can happen with any car, but maybe some manufacturers have better quality control over the production of these sensors - any one of which can fail and degrade your vehicle's performance (if not stop it all together).

    That's why I'm not a big fan of all the electronics they're putting in vehicles today. I think they've gone WAY too far already. OK, put the sensors in the engine to make it run more efficiently (if you have to), but what about things like that STUPID electronic touchpad on the liftgate of the Equinox. Now who's the IDIOT designer (or group of designers) who came up with THAT one? Totally unnecessary and doomed to fail. Not to mention that's it's awkward to use! An old-fashioned mechanical latch should've been installed. They last forever with little or no trouble and are easy to replace if they fail. But it MUST'VE been about the money (again)! It must've been less expensive to put the touchpad in (both in terms of part cost and installation time), and if it lasts 5-6 years, that's good enough because most people don't keep their cars longer than that.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    edited January 2011
    I see there are others who feel the same as I do. Glad to know I'm not alone on this. At least in the examples you just wrote.

    The touch pad will cost less no doubt, but is also lighter which they are also trying to keep tabs on. The hatch on a Kia Forte i checked out a month ago, had something similar by the sounds of things. (I have not seen the Nox one) If you pressed it too lightly or slowly, it would unlatch but only part way! You had to be quite deliberate with the press. Plus they are always in a really dirty place. Who wants to have to get their hands or gloves that dirty to have to touch a pad? At least if they don't dry out in time, and are sealed welled, they may resist corrosion longer than a keyed latch.

    I say bring back the cable pull, or button operated electric solenoid even if they do add some weight. The trunk lid 'pops' and usually u can find a cleaner place to open it the rest of the way with a finger on the inside edge where it is clean.
  • jrcketjrcket Posts: 9
    Hahaha colthero, that is exactly how I feel. What the heck the TCM switch fails and I can't open the trunk.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    Good idea. Trading cars everytime you have a problem and you may be in debt as much as this country is :-)
  • jrcketjrcket Posts: 9
    damthews3,

    Who said I trade cars everytime I have a problem? In fact we have a 1997 E320 that we owned since new and a 2002 Suburban we owned since new. These two cars have been trouble free since we bought them. I mean no out of the ordinary problems, but we kept them up to date with all services.

    Bought a new Equinox and a simple TCM switch going out causes undrivability- the car dosen't even have a limp mode to allow you to drive it to safety. Plus the damn rear hatch won't open and I can't get my tools out of the back.

    So my friend I am sorry if I might contributedto the country's debt because I am considering a trade even at a loss. I believe as long as I pay my bills on time I am golden.

    Joey
  • colt_herocolt_hero Posts: 104
    edited January 2011
    Seems like with the touchpad on my Equinox, I have to press it twice to get it to unlatch. I haven't completely read the Owner's Manual yet ... maybe that's the way it is, but it's awkward to use. It also says NOT to press on the pad after the liftgate is opened. Well, THAT'S pretty stupid. Your hand is reaching into this "pocket" to open the liftgate. What are you supposed to be doing ... grabbing the liftgate by the bottom lip?

    Here's another stupid one for ya: Unlike the 2010, with the 2011 model they decided to package the power seat with the camera and remote start in what they called the "Driver Convenience Package". Wonderful! I don't want the power seat due to the height difference between my wife and I. Its an inconvenience, a nuisance, and with all the movement back and forth it could fail in a position where one of us could not drive the vehicle. So because of the IDIOTS at GM, I had to forego the camera and remote start.

    The power seat should ALWAYS be a separately-added option. It should NEVER be bundled with other un-related options.

    Still don't like the door lock button in the middle of the dash, either. I also can't stand keyfobs on my keyring - especially the MONSTER-SIZED one for the Equinox. WAY TOO BIG! I'm hoping I can get just a standard key for my keyring, but that'll mean using the center door lock button - which is inconvenient when I have to open the back door to take my things out before locking and closing the doors. Should've put the switches on the doors. That's where everyone expects them to be.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    I never said you trade cars everytime you have a problem, my point was if you take your current attitude (getting rid of the E because of one problem) then going forward if you take that same attitude you will be so far in the red as you will never get what you paid for the vehicle so each time you lose more. This could be the only problem you ever have with it. I could see dumping it if you have had problem after problem but you aren't. I hope you keep and enjoy it for many years to come. I know I really like mine. I have had other G.M.'s with problems and one time dumped it after dealer couldn't fix it right but that was way back when they had price increases many times during the year and I got almost as much on trade as I paid for it orginally. I still stay with the Big 3 even though some don't think they are quality cars but I believe in the bigger picture and can't see substadizing another countrys government, schools and roads when ours needs it more.
  • jrcketjrcket Posts: 9
    edited January 2011
    Oh ok, yeah I was just venting I love the Nox but I think that from my experience with the Suburban I had high hopes that it would be problem free (maybe too high). Also not being to open and get my tools from the trunk didn't help.

    BTW, its been 4 days now and the part has not yet come in so my car is stranded at the dealership. :mad:
  • Reading all the blogs is making me second guess buying the enox & rethinking the outback :confuse:
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    Just remember that most here are here because of a problem of some kind. There are many, many out there just driving their Nox without a worry. I'm sure if you go to a Outback forum you will find unhappy people there.
  • jrcketjrcket Posts: 9
    Got my Nox back! After 5 days of waiting for the part. They had to replace the Internal Mode Switch (IMS) in the trans. They had to take out the valve body to get to the switch then replaced the fluid. I hope this time this switch dosen't fail right away.
  • I have a 2010 Equinox LT2 V6 and am having a recurring problem with the Service Air Bag light and (annoying) chime coming on. I took the car in to the local Chevy dealer 2 months after I got it and they fixed it. Then a month later it went on again (at 4000 miles). They first said it could be wiring under the driver's seat, then they had to order a new part. Now it's happened again, only problem is the original dealer (Bay Bridge in Oakland, CA) is out of business (or rather, bought out by a new owner who is opening back up this month). The Novato dealer (35 miles away) did a diagnostic on it and said I couldn't get a rental car from them because the repair might not take over 6 hours (I told them the first repair took 3 days). I am definitely not happy with the quality issues with this car even though I LOVE the way it drives and is equipped compared with the car it replaced - 2008 Toyota Highlander Ltd. But the problems are a nuisance. I didn't see any other discussions related to this problems... anyone else having the same issues?
  • Oh, I forgot to add that the first dealer wouldn't let me drive the car after bringing it in, saying if the airbag wasn't working properly it was a serious safety issue, and they gave me a loaner car; the Novato dealership told me to come back when it was "convenient" for me and sent me on my merry way with no airbags! So I haven't been driving the car for a month just waiting for the closer dealer to open back up. One of the biggest pains I've noticed is that the dealer closest to my business closed, and so now it is really inconvenient getting this car serviced. I was thinking of getting the new SRX after the lease on this Nox is up, but now I don't think I will. GM has a ways to go to improve both products and customer service. This was the one shot I was giving GM since I haven't had a GM product since 1986, and they pretty much screwed up.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,071
    pachief1,
    I would recommend speaking with your dealer of choice. If you have any other questions feel free to email me.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,071
    clebo1,
    Can you please email me with you case number? I would like to look into this for you.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • This past week was driving in the Monster Snow Storm that hit 2/3 of the country. After driving in heavy snow for about 15 minutes, I get a message on the info center in the center of the dash "All Wheel Drive is turned OFF" with a 4 wheel symbol with a line through it. WHAT??? This is why I have ALL WHEEL DRIVE! Called On Star - got some foreign guy who couldn't speak "English" and comes back to tell me to stop and turn off the car and back on. It should reset itslef. WHAT? In the middle of the road in the middle of the biggest snow storm to hit the US and I am supposed to turn off my vehicle. I took it to the dealer and they put it on the computer and could not find any codes and they offered no information as to why it turned "OFF" or how to get it back on. AWD really DOES make a differnce.
    Anyone have any ideas or advice for the next snow storm?
  • I was thinking one of the best things about the Nox was how wonderful it handles the snowy roads. I am sure you are aware that there is a button that can turn off the AWD and that was not the issue?
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    There is NO BUTTON to turn off the AWD. The only button is to turn off the traction control, which is way different.
  • jonoxjonox Posts: 84
    I'm not familiar with the 2011 Nox but I do have an AWD vehicle. I know that on some AWD systems when driving driving in deep snow (or mud or sand) for a period of time the AWD system may automatically switch to FWD to prevent overheating. You might want to check with GM or your Owner's Manual to see if this is the case.
  • Just got my Equinox back for the second fuel pump replacement. I am told that this is the third redesign of the fuel pump and that this should "fix" the problem. So far out of the 6 months I have had my vehicle it has been at the dealership awaiting parts and getting "fixed" for about 30 days. This is unacceptable. Oh, it still sounds as if the fuel pump is bad but the dealership says they can't hear the problem Go figure!
  • dowopdowop Posts: 25
    My backup camera was damaged do to vandalism. I knew it would be not covered under warranty.
    The camera cost $152.00 & the labor was $140.00 with a 10% discount the bill was a $290.00.
    It took the Dealer 30 minutes to replace it.

    Does this seem like a fair charge?
  • Ouch!! For that much, it would seem like you should be able to take videos or at least take pictures. Hmm, actually not a bad idea. If my cam ever goes, I'm going to look into something that records.
  • dowopdowop Posts: 25
    I think I might change Dealerships.
    This is probably a stupid question but could I make a complaint to someone other than arguing with the Dealership?
  • Now that I think about it, using GM original parts with dealer markup, that's probably the high end of what those things would go for. Was it only the lens that was damaged? If so, I still think that's high. You might want to take the part(s) number(s) from your receipt and call a few other dealers to get their prices, then average them out. Same with labor, there should be a standard fee for replacing a lens.

    If it turns out that your dealer over charged you, you might want to approach them nicely and ask if they made a mistake, then request a credit with the parts or service department.
  • The camera as an option on a brand-new vehicle is worth around $300. It sounds like that's the number the dealership was using to bill you.

    A co-worker installed his own camera on an '09 Traverse LS he bought used. He said it cost him around $70 (from a local store). So $152 for a GM camera sounds about right (double). $140 for labor sounds kind of high for a 30 minute job, but the shop probably charges a minimum time (looks like maybe 2 hours ??).

    You might be able to argue the labor down to one hour, giving you a refund of around $70, but that's probably the best you're going to do.
  • roho1roho1 Posts: 317
    It's hard to comment on this issue unless the op tells us exactly what parts were replaced and any other work done since it was vandalism.
  • dowopdowop Posts: 25
    edited February 2011
    The only part replaced was the camera & bracket for $152.00 & $140.00 labor charge. The only damage done was the camera bracket was broke due to someone trying to pry the camera out.

    I just returned from the Dealer & the service manager offered me 2 free oil changes & a tire rotation to make up for the high charge.
    I accepted.
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