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Volvo V70 Wagon Experience

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  • woosahhh1woosahhh1 Posts: 4
    Multithreaded, This message is late in coming, 4 years actually, but I'm in the market for a used 2001 v70 2.4 (non-turbo). Since you leased your volvo as a safety precaution, how was the car overall during the time you had it. I'm trying to find post of 'negative' comments to give me an idea what to look for. It's obviously 2005 now and the 2001 I'm looking at has 104k. It's been serviced regularly at the dealership and the asking price is $10,500. Kbb is $11,300 and the seller knows this. Can you give me any info as to whether the 2001 year model had any major issues with it. Since the warranty has expired due to mileage, I'm trying to anticipate what to expect. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks - Steve
  • magomanmagoman Posts: 4
    Hi Guys new to this forum. I had just looked at a 2002 V70xc w/50k on it. I have been a subaru guy
    and loved the reliability of them. Then was looking into a Toyota Highlander at Toyota dealer
    and there was this very nice used V70xc fell in love with it.
    Can anyone shed some light on this car for me as far as reliability of them and any other things
    I should know about this car?
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Posts: 1,150
    My wife and I love our 2001 XC. Its a nice car for long trips, it will gobble up miles of interstate at 75 MPH +. Four hundred mile days are no sweat. One thousand mile four day weekends (like the past July 4th) are a piece of cake. Its also great for just putzing around town. The AWD is great come winter and the seats are fantastic. Perhaps the best in any car. The top of the head rest is above the crown of my head and relatively close to it. This gives me the idea that the seatbacks would minimize whiplash. If you buy a 2001 thru 2003 or so , invest in having the rear window and rear glass areas tinted dark. It gets hot back there. The new ones (2004 and on up?) seem to have this standard from the factory.

    But, we've had our share of problems. A quick run through (by memory only) of the problems includes issues that resulted in a rebuilt transmission, new front struts, and the electronic throttle module all replaced under warranty. For the first three years the light bulbs blew regularly until the dealer installed the factory fix and the electronic door locks failed. The repairs we did pay for weren't cheap. We spent $1100 on a brake job (no joke) at 53K miles or so and $400 or so at 60K on a front control arm. The front end though is still loose like it needs new struts (again). The 60K mile service was expensive ($500 +-) and nothing significant was really done. (OK, they changed a few cabin air filters, greased some door locks and changed the oil.)

    Dealership experience? Acceptable but not great. The customers tend to be inoffensive, upper middle class types who bought a Volvo because they were told they are reliable. The owners are really out of their element when in front of the service writers desk and most customers just grumble and authorize the repair. The repairs themselves are uneven. Tools are left in the engine compartment, the vehicles rarely returned washed (not that I need a free wash, but if the mechanic didn't wash it like the dealer promises after each service, what else didn't he do?), etc. The dealer principal (it is a one store operation) lives out of state and is never around. All in all, the dealership experience is probably better than a domestic service experience but not like the Germans.

    Would we buy one again? Yes and no. If we had had to pay for the warranty repairs, I'd be furious and so probably not. On the other hand, what else is out there? I'm convinced that the E Class Mercedes Wagon with Fourmatic is no more reliable, holds less, is no where near as competent in foul weather, and certainly far more money. The AWD Pacifica lacks panache, the SAAB Aero is not AWD, etc. While a Suburu wagon, the Official Maine State Car, makes the most sense, I have certain cultural and business hangups about driving a Suburu. Maybe what we should buy is a V70 T with a stick shift. That would eliminate the tranny problem and maybe some of the front end problems (AWD is complicated). Put on some Blizzaks come Thanksgiving and we would be all set.
  • purppurp Posts: 3
    I am also looking at a 2001 v70. I have test driven two so far and absolutely love it. It seems as though this car is a popular lease vehicle. This might explain the low price. The dealer I am working with offered the car to me for $12,000 but also said he would add a third seat and roof rack for an extra $500. The mileage is 132,000, but it drives like it were new. If you get any good or bad info can please pass on the info.
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Posts: 1,150
    Why would you want to buy a worn out car for 12K, asking, when one with decent mileae is just 3K more?

    You can pick up a 2001 XC with 50-60K miles for 19K or so. A V70 with leather but not AWD with decent mileage for 15K. I strongly suspect you are not familiar with the used car game and have gone to a non-authorized, corner lot. Your language is revealing. You say you are "working with a dealer". Does he give you a W2 form? IMHO, you have a serious case of role reversal. You would do a lot better if you indicated to him that he should be trying to work FOR you. In any case, no dealer, not even an authorized Volvo dealer offerring you a certified used car, will be able to offer any kind of a meaningful warranty at 132,000 miles. So, since the price isn't significantly lower than a 55,000 mile car and there will be no warranty, why bother?

    For the 3K savings you are "losing" 75K miles of relatively trouble free driving and facing with absolute certainty almost an immediate 5K in repairs: radiator, brakes, air conditoner work, tires, suspension, etc. It gets worse. After you drop 5K (that's post tax money, incidentally. You had to earn 7K in your W2 to get 5K) you still have a worn out car that only a college sophmore would buy from you.

    This is nuts. Run away. Then, to prepare yourself for the next encounter check out Edmunds TMV pricing and equally importantly, spend a Saturday visiting perhaps 50 dealers to become more familar with the process and to convince yourself who works for whom.

    Good luck.
  • jbindajbinda Posts: 1
    Please Help!

    I own a 2002 Volvo V70 and I have discovered a strange problem. When I drive on a highway for more than 1/2 hour, the fan for my AC system shuts down. It stays off until I drive off the highway and slow down. After about 10 minutes the fan and the cool air return. I have taken it to the dealership twice, and they cannot replicate the problem.
    This is a huge issue for long car rides in summer and winter (de-frost) My only option is to allow a technician to take my car overnight so they can drive it home and re-creat the problem..then hook up a laptop to the car to see if they can pin point the problem.
    Can anyone offer any suggesttions as to the cause of this huge proble. Thank you.JHB
  • tmarttmart Spring, TXPosts: 1,026
    Are you sure it's only with highway driving? Sounds like a problem I had recently on a trip to Dallas from Houston. The airflow gradually decreased to nothing and the whole system shut off. About 15 minutes or so later, the AC came back on full blast. Problem turned out to be the low temp sensor. It didn't tell the compressor to stop cooling, so it ran until the coil froze over effectively stopping the airflow. After being off awhile the ice melted and cold air blew again...until freezing again. Interestingly now that you mentioned it, I don't recall it happening while driving in town. Anywho, the dealer recognized the problem right away and replaced the sensor. Don't understand why your dealer didn't recognize the symtoms.
  • johnqjohnq Posts: 1
    Hello All, this is my first post to this forum. I just got a 2005 v70 2.4 (w/premium package) for $6K below invoice from Volvo Marin in San Francisco area. I wanted to install the fog lights to my car. Does Volvo make a fog lights kit for V70 2.4? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    Cheers! -John
  • dmarcus48dmarcus48 Posts: 139
    Yes they do, and your car is more likely pre-wired for the lights. I think. You will need a software download to get the lights working.
  • I used to sell Volvo cars. I am sold on them for the safety. The customers had life saving stories. Many repeat customers.

    I want now a V70R. Can only afford used. Is it a good idea to get one with 90K? Are repairs more and expensive on the "R" over regular Turbo's? Must have turbo and AWD.

    Any help on my decision would be appreciated. My wife is questioning my decision to get such a high milage car. I told her they can go a few 100 thousand miles.

    I found one I like, and want it!

    thanks everyone
    Ron
  • I used to sell Volvo cars. I am sold on them for the safety. The customers had life saving stories. Many repeat customers.

    I want now a V70R. Can only afford used. Is it a good idea to get one with 90K? Are repairs more and expensive on the "R" over regular Turbo's? Must have turbo and AWD.

    Any help on my decision would be appreciated. My wife is questioning my decision to get such a high milage car. I told her they can go a few 100 thousand miles.

    I found one I like, and want it!

    thanks everyone
    Ron
  • lorieannelorieanne Posts: 4
    My advice regarding buying a Volvo would be to run in the other direction as fast as you can. It may be that Volvo use to be a reliable car, that is no longer true. I have a 2001 XCV70, just in the last six months I have had to put 9,000.00 (you read it correctly, 9,000.00) to fix little "quirks" that continue to go wrong. At first it was just bothersome, most of the "quirks" were covered under warranty. What I know now is that they really just put a bandage on to get it through and four years later those little problems have turned into big, costly problems. One of those problems is the ETM, which after research I have discovered is in the court system right now because Volvo is suppose to disclose the problems with their throttle and cover the cost. Instead they try to put blame on the owner. You used the wrong gas, didn't change the oil enough and so on. I have found this to be the typical response from Volvo from the lowest in the company to the highest, CEO Ann Belek. But that's not even the worst. The latest thing to go wrong on my car was that a control arm bolt split in two. Causing the control arm and tire to fall off while driving. I have the bolt in my posession and it is clearly a faulty bolt. I should add I had had the car in three times stating it was making a noise in the front right. I even had a second party tell them the control arm bushings were worn and needed to be replaced. Vovlo told me they had taken care of it. Obviously they had not. I'm lucky I was driving slow at the time the tire came off, I can only imagine what could have happened. I am now in dispute with Volvo over this and many other issues this car has had. My advice again, run! Whatever you do, don't buy a Volvo. They don't stand behind their car. And they are by far the most expensive car on the market to service.
  • lorieannelorieanne Posts: 4
    Most expensive car to have service done on. 1999-2002 have lawsuits against them regarding the throttle. I would never buy another Volvo again, but I certainly wouldn't buy one that was past warranty. I've put 9,000.00 into my Volvo in the last six months. The car is four !/2 years old. You can read the details about my horrific experience on the message board.
  • I own '99 V70XC. I have had a check engine light problem for almost 12 months. I have had the O2 sensor replaced--twice--and the mass air filter. This was $1000. And the light still popped on after 100 or so miles.

    The car then started to occasionally spit black smoke and idle roughly when I came to stop.

    I also have noticed that recently the lights wouldn't work when I started the car (blinkers and headlights) I need to restart the car and, voila, the lights would work.

    Now they tell me that the car is "contaminated" and that the wiring harness is shot. The problem is that the harness gets dirty and then shorts out various electrical parts. The cost? $1500 to fix.

    Has anyone dealt with this before? Am I getting the shaft?
  • lorieannelorieanne Posts: 4
    This is a very late reply but if it turns out to be the same thing as my car, very important. I had a "rumble" in the front of my car for six months. Had a similar experience to yours. After being in the shop four times in that six months period, and 5,000.00 later my front passenger side tire and control arm fell off while driving. I'm lucky, I was slowing down to come to a stop when it fell off. The explanation is a faulty bolt that looks as though it was accidently sawed part way and eventually split the remaining way. Have the control arm checked and the bolts that hold them on. Now my cost is up to almost 5,000.00 more and still rising. I'm in a huge dispute with Volvo and I can tell it's going to be a long process to get it resolved. This car has had numerous problems. The service men finally told me it's basically a lemon. When my lease is up they told me there is no way they will resell this car to someone. They are giving it back to Volvo. But I'm stuck with it in the mean time.
  • lorieannelorieanne Posts: 4
    Given the experience I've had with my 2001 XCV70 I'm impressed yours has only acted up recently. My check engine light has been on more than it's been off, and that's on a small problem on this car. But I will pass along that recently it turned into a much bigger problem in that the computer is throwing off many codes and they aren't sure why. They fix one thing, another problem pops up and the check engine light comes on. My lease is up in four months and given the past history with my car they are just trying to keep it going until the lease is up but I can tell you is that it seems as though they put a "band aide" on the problem instead of ever really figuring out what was wrong and now it's a big problem which will easily run into several thousand dollars to fix, if it really can be fixed. I hope you have better luck than I have had.
  • johnwngjohnwng Posts: 24
    I have a 2003 V70. So far, I love it, except that the leather on the steering wheel is peeling off. It does not affect driving, but looks bad. Does that happen to anyone here? I have an 5 year old Nissan with leather wrapped steering wheel, and the leather is still nice and smooth. Nothing like my Volvo. Hate to replace the whole steering wheel. It there any aftermarket steering wheel wrap for Volvo?
  • purppurp Posts: 3
    Could you be anymore honest? I am obviously not making a good decision here. Thanks for your advice anyway, it really hit home.
  • neatneat Posts: 1
    i have a 1996 volvo 850 wagon with 207,000 miles on it and have not had 1 major problem with it and still have no rust on it. I also have a 2003 cross country with 100,000 miles on it and also have no problems with it. I am only 30 but I will drive nothing but volvo for the rest of my life. sorry about your problems with your volvo
  • volvoprovolvopro Posts: 1
    Volvo is replacing peeling steering wheels under warranty. :)
  • I have a 2004 V70. Recently the check engine light came on. I made an appointment at the dealer to have it checked out. Reading through the manual I found something that says the check engine light may come on as a result of a loose fuel cap. I checked my fuel cap and sure enough it was loose. I fixed the problem but my check engine light is still on.

    Can someone please tell me if the light needs to be reset or if it will correct itself? Tightening the gas cap seems like too easy a fix on the other hand if that's all it is I prefer not to have pay the dealership for unnecessary repair.
  • lancerfixerlancerfixer Posts: 1,308
    You've got a couple options here without going to the dealer. I think it takes 15-20 ignition cycles for a Check Engine light to reset itself after no longer detects a fault. Your more immediate, but slightly less convenient, option would be to disconnect the battery for about ten seconds. Have your radio code handy if you go this route, though.
  • Hi all - I am strongly considering becoming a first time Volvo owner! I'd greatly appreciate any advice about how to evaluate a 2001 V70 (non-turbo) with 51K miles for $14,500 at a non-dealer car lot in our small town. There's no rust, and it drives like nothing domestic I've ever owned (that's a good thing). It does have traction control. How do I tell if it's a 2.4 or a T5 or whatever - I did see that it was 5 cylinder. Are luggage rails and third seat available to add-on? What should I beware of or how fast should we get out our check book?

    A friend whose full time job is buying used vehicles for a local Chrysler dealer asked me if I'd "lost my mind" when I mentioned considering the V70 and launched into a tirade about $500 brake jobs and crazy expensive maintenance... but man, oh man, did I like the feel of that test drive!

    Thanks for any thoughts!
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Posts: 1,150
    Thanks. I thought that the discussion of W2's might hit home.

    This whole issue is very important to a person of limited means. An upper income person who makes the wrong, un-researched decision on a car doesn't take a meaningful hit. Moreover, an upper income person usually has lots of help (e.g., the WSJ, friends in business, professional partners, etc. ) to avoid a bad decision. Good luck.
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    I don't know about that.

    I know a doctor who bought an SL600 a year and a half ago.
    He just sold it and lost $50,000(not including the taxes he paid on the original purchase).
    $50k is a big hit no matter who you are.
    Rich people make stupid decisions too.
  • The only turbos are 2.4T & T5 for that year. If it doesn't say either of those on the back of the car, you're right, it isn't turbo.

    I have a 2001 2.4T. It felt like a tight, sporty sedan & still does (wouldn't know it was a wagon unless you turned you head around). I had a love affair with that car & still love the safety features (4" thick doors, etc...). Then the quirkiness started.

    This car has had everything from persistent oil leaks to manic electrical issues. All at HUGE costs to me. I just got it back from the shop TODAY. This car has 69,900 miles on it. The laundry list of repairs needed are as follows:

    Reseal turbo drain back tube - $200.00
    Replace BROKEN engine torque mount - $200.00
    Replace inner tie rod assemblies & align - $450.00
    Replace passenger door lock actuator - $315.00
    Perform steering module software download - $235.00

    I just spent over $1,000 at the 60,000 mile visit! THIS WAS JUST FOR ROUTINE MAINTENANCE!! I was so upset that I called the service dept to ask them if they put doctors & lawyers on my car. He told me to sit down for the $1,400.00, 100,000 service that was coming up. This thing is a money pit. I spend about as much on maintenance & repairs (monthly) as I would to drive a nice new car that was under warranty. My co-worker had the same year & model as I have. His was an absolute bomb. He got "0" satisfaction from Volvo. He said he tried to navigate the voice-mail system from hell and could not get anybody who cared.

    Want to routinely pay big $$ for safety? This is your car...
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Posts: 1,150
    Volvomax, I've always valued your posts and seek no quarrel. My point wasn't that rich people don't make stupid decisions but that the consequences aren't as great. An MD who is writing off a significant portion of his uber sedan as a biz expense is not going to feel the 50K loss anywhere nearly as bad as the person who wanted to buy a Volvo wagon with 135,000 miles on it for 14K for (probably) their sole means of transportation.

    Incidentally, despite some problems with our 2001 XC we are going to re-up. You can't beat the seats, safety, looks, ride, etc. What improvement would an E Series wagon with Fourmatic give us? For probably 15K more money we would have less traction, less usable space, non-Volvo seats, etc. What did I leave out?

    It seems to me from reading the board that the current ETM is not the same as the one sourced from Magnelli Moretti in the 2001 and that the AWD is now by Haldex. Can we assume that all the bugs in the 01s have been corrected by now?
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    The "bugs" are long gone.
  • I have 47K miles on my 2001 V70, no problems and love it. It fits me and my family (big & tall in size). Getting it serviced is expensive, but I'd been going to the local dealer. Get it and enjoy the car.
  • rey2rey2 Posts: 1
    Hi, I am thinking of getting a used 98 V70 AWD with 73k miles and was wondering how reliable this car is. I've seen some threads about the viscuos coupler going bad, but other than this, how good is it? Also, since you do most of the work, how difficult is the maintenance like what you've done so far?

    Thanks.
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