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Volvo V70 Wagon Experience

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Comments

  • camydogcamydog Posts: 64
    I have an '01 T5 and do enjoy it. You will see a very notable difference in ride, handling and performance when compared to the light pressure turbo of the 2.5T and its softer ride.

    Our car is equipped with third row seat (kids only), built in boosters, cold weather package, 5 spd auto with selectable gears, leather sport seats (std on '01 T5) and rear spoiler. There are a few other small things. It now has 57k miles on it with no drivetrain problems. We did have fit/finish problems with the door panels coming debonded from the frame behind the door pull. They were replaced under warranty. We also had a door lock issue as they related to the keyless entry and alarm. This was a warranty item also.

    Beware of any clunking or noise from the front suspension on your test drives. These cars (at least the '00 and '01) have issues with front stabilizer links breaking or the bushings going bad. We were lucky to get this replaced under warranty at 49700. If I subscribed to a conspiracy theory I would say Volvo designed this into the car to get work for their dealers, but I don't REALLY believe that. It is an extrememly common needed repair.

    The horsepower difference is 20-25% above the 2.5T and the ride is much stiffer in the T5, sometimes not a good thing, such as around town on older concrete. It's very comfortable on the highway and a blast when passing. There is some turbo lag, more notable on a man. trans. In the auto it's much less notable.

    Good luck with your search. If you need any more info email me.
  • churechure Posts: 3
    I appreciate the comments from everyone.

    I do like the idea of the the bigger turbo and sport feel. I've been looking for '04 T5 and they're out there but not too plentiful. My thinking was they would be coming off of 3 yr leases. If I were to expand my search to other years are there any I should stay away from?

    I'm hoping $20-25k should get a T5 with less then 50k miles. I'm not really in a hurry, baby in fall, so I can wait for the right one to come along.
  • If you like a sporty car and need some room for kids, I would suggest getting the V70 R. The R (also available on S60) includes a twin turbo engine that produces 300 hp and 258 lb ft of torque (for automatics), and most importantly, it has an adjustable suspension. There are three settings: Comfort, Sport, and Advanced, which allow you to adjust the ride softness or hardness and increase sharp cornering ability when desired. Oh, and it's a lot of fun to drive even though it is a station wagon.
  • churechure Posts: 3
    Thanks 4x4, I've been now looking and reading about the R and I'm getting torn towards it. I test drove the 2.5T and it was nice but I'm guessing doesn't compare to the T5 or R as far as acceleration.

    I have a manual trans in my GLI and had ruled it out for the V70, because my wife will be driving this also, but she gave the go ahead for manual trans, any thoughts on manual vs auto trans for the T5 and/or R?
  • Hi Chure:

    I bought a 06 manual V70 (normally aspirated) last fall and I love it. New, about $30k (with the climate and convenience package, as well as metallic paint, 3rd row seating and sunroof). Most Volvo dealers will tell you that it is impossible to buy a stick shift V70, but that is because they want to sell you what is on their lot. I actually called about 7 dealers before I found a 5 speed 2.4 V70.

    The T5 is gone. A R will cost you at least 40 grand.

    All of my minivan owning friends are envious when I unload my three (small) kids from the Volvo. I also get 30mpg on the highway, and I would estimate a 9 second 0-60 time.
  • campbedcampbed Posts: 2
    Volvo Canada leases out V70 ASR's with leather to Hertz Canada. These cars are returned to Volvo when they have about 15,000 km on them. These are sold to dealers who certify them and resell to the public,generally with a 5 year, 140,000 km $100 deductible warranty. Questions- Has anybody out there bought an ex rental, and if so, what is/was your experience with it. Any comments about buying a low mileage ex rental??
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Posts: 1,150
    In early '01 we bought an 01 V70 XC that had been a Hertz rental car put into service very early on in the model year. Someone had scrawled on the radiator cover "08/00" which indicated the in-service date. (I have since learned that savvy used Class 8 truck buyers always check the VIN for in-service dates because a vehicle could vary as much as 12 months in age within a given model year.)

    Prior to buying it I called Hertz in Boston and elsewhere to get a feel for their "maintenance schedule". It was like talking to meatheads. They didn't have any. None. Just wash it and wait for the next OJ Simpson to come along. The car had a filthy air cleaner etc. But not to worry, we threw in a new air filter , changed the oil filter (why isn't there an aftermarket filter for these things?) and Mobil 1 and put it on a rigorouse maintenance schedule.

    We had the usual problems with this first model year car which I have recounted earlier. But none as far as I know were related to Hertz. At the time we bought the car, it had high mileage for a six month old car. But because the car isn't used much, the odometer now only reads 83K so it is back within parameters.

    One benefit of buying a Hertz rental is that it will be specced with a desireable color and options. I don't think Hertz buys lava colored, stick shift V70s with manual seats. They spec them to be rented by conversative middle aged people and quickly re-sold to, you guessed it, conservative middle aged people.

    We are hoping to pick up the new iteration of the XC70 in '08 or, more rationally, in '09 when the first year bugs are worked out. To hedge our bets we just installed a bunch of replacement and upgrade parts from IPD Volvo: new struts, new engine mount, a strut support bar, the upgraded charcoal filter, etc.

    Beyond the question of Hertz, the larger question is would we buy a V70 XC again? Yep. Despite the first year problems, where else are you going to buy an AWD entry-level luxury wagon for a 35-36K USD transaction price? A Bimmer AWD 5 Series wagon is 67K list with much less capability. Not only is it 30K more than an XC, to haul your butt around it has TWIN turbos! Come on. That is a maintenance problem just waiting to happen at 70K miles.

    An E Class AWD wagon is "only" 20K more than the Volvo with, again, far less capability. The Germans do look nice when Muffie pulls up to St. Pauls or Andover in one to pick up Seamus for the ride home at Christmas.
  • jrosasmcjrosasmc Posts: 1,704
    Hey, if you're around I need to ask a question: How does one disable the daytime running lights on a 2003 XC70? My folks just purchased the car; however, I could not find a little disabling screw next to the headlight switch, like there is on my '96 850 and '99 S70.

    Other folks on the board, please feel free to answer my question. Thanks a lot!
  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    I recall that the owner's manual on my 2004 V70 states that the daytime running lights can be disabled by the dealer. Presumably this is done through the computer port.

    I am a tightwad and hate the thought of burning the headlights out, and the area around the headlights is so cramped that I'm not sure I can change the bulb at least on one side (don't remember which), but I haven't disabled the daytime running lights. I think it does make the car more visible. It could bring my car to the attention of an inattentive driver coming the other way. And I appreciate other drivers doing the same for me.
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Posts: 1,150
    What does buying another new Volvo and a second marriage have in common? The triump of hope over experience.

    With the new 2008 Model Year changes, the new V70/XC70 looks attractive. Wouldn't it be slick to pick up a new one to replace our '01 and ride the new one out for the full model cycle as we did the '01? We had our XC70 now for the full run of the model cycle and stylistically had a "new car" for 7 years. Conceivably, my thinking went, if we buy an '08 this fall we could get 7 years out of that one too. (The only flaw in that argument might be that in 2015 when I am 70 I may not want to be faced with replacing a 7 year old car. But then again, if 40 is the new 30, 70 is the new 50 and I'll have a lot of miles left on my chassis.)

    I then remembered the problems with our '01. Problems chalked up by everyone as typical of all first year cars. But, oh well, that's a long time ago, surely Volvo/Ford have learned how to better test prototypes with computer modeling/CAD-CAM, etc.

    Maybe not. Recently, I had heard about the Ford 6.0 Powerstroke Diesel. It was brand new a couple of years ago and was so bad that web sites sprung up labelling it the "power joke". You couldn't keep head gaskets on it because it only had 12 head bolts to clamp each head on. Ford said that the heads could not be resufaced or even rebuilt. The diesel pickup people were irate. Ford had to rush through a revised 6.4 engine with radically different heads.

    Maybe non-destructive testing at Ford hasn't advanced as much as we would have hoped?
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Posts: 3,118
    I finally had a free day to install my new bike rack - thought I'd share my experience.

    Background - I wanted a bike rack that could carry 4 bikes (our entire family). I tried a trunk mount/strap supported rack but quickly discovered that the edge of the top of the rear hatch (that supports most of the weight of the loaded rack) is made of plastic.

    I decided to get a trailer hitch mounted bike rack and started researching my options.

    1. I found several aftermarket hitch receivers from companies like Draw-Tight, Hidden Hitch, etc. but they were only available in 1.25" receiver. The advantage is they only cost about $130 and they are simple to install - they bolt underneath the bumper in about 15 minutes with no cutting or drilling. The disadvantage is the small receiver size means the rack isn't as stable - many racks for this receiver have straps for added support.

    2. The only 2" hitch receiver is the factory Volvo part. My local dealer wanted $285 for the part. The advantage is the 2" bike racks are much more stable (no support straps needed), and the Volvo receiver is custom made for the V70 (factory look and tidier installation). The disadvantage is the need to remove and trim the bumper and maybe 2 hours of labor.

    Ultimately I decided to do the right thing and get the 2" factory receiver hitch and a 2" bike rack. I found an online parts supplier that sold me the Volvo receiver hitch for $203 and ordered it on the spot. Then I called my local dealer to see about installation. I figured a couple hours at $75/hr and I'd be set. WRONG! I was quoted $450 labor to install the receiver hitch. I decided to do it myself.

    I must admit that I was nervous about this job. There are rivets in the wheel well that need to be drilled out, and I was afraid of permanently damaging the trim and bumper. After almost surrendering and calling a couple body shops for estimates. I finally bit the bullet and tackled the job in my driveway.

    It turned out to not be a very complicated or difficult job - the toughest part was pulling the bumper off because of all the rivets, screws and hidden retaining clips. It took me 3 hours from start to finish and I am pleased with the results. I'm glad I chose the 2" hitch receiver - it's a lot bigger and stronger than those 1.25" bolt-under units, and I think it looks a lot better too.

    The worst part of the experience was having the car up in the air like that and the wheels removed, and not having new rear brake pads on hand. My rear pads are ready for replacement but I haven't ordered them yet. :cry:

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  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    I don't have jack stands or a floor jack, and I figured out a way to install the Volvo hitch on my 04 V70 without removing the rear wheels or the plastic bumper facia. But I don't recommend my method to anyone who has the equipment to install it according to the directions.

    When I bought the hitch I assumed that the installation was like the aftermarket ones, but the dealer informed me that it was much more involved. I didn't need the hitch right away so I took it home and thought about it.

    I was surprised that the hitch was in three main pieces that bolt together, rather than a single welded piece that I expected, and I hypothesized that possibly the Volvo engineers did this to allow the hitch to be installed without removing the bumper facia. However, it just turned out that removal of the facia was easier if one had the right tools and expertise, which I was lacking.

    My procedure was to first, cut the slot in the facia that the hitch protrudes from (electric saber saw), and then I wiggled the individual pieces of the hitch behind the bumper facia and connected them in place. In order to do this I had to cut into the facia on the underside lower edges (circular holes to access the nuts and then cuts to allow the facia to be pulled down, and I cut a circular 1 1/2" hole in the vertical face of the facia on the left, to wrench on the left bolt head. I have a black plug in that hole and it looks fine. The right side bolt head is accessed through the rectangular pop-out. One could get an additional pop out and cut a rectangular hole in the left side just like the one on the right.

    I intended to use pop rivets to rejoin the cut edges in the underside of the facia using sheet aluminum or scraps of facia, but I never got around to it. I am leaving the circular holes open so I could check the tightness of the two main bolts if I ever wanted to.

    I thought I had located a source of an aftermarket hitch for the 04 V70 with a 2" square receiver, but I don't remember now. I agree that an 1 1/4" receiver would not be as useful.

    We now have an 07 XC90 and I am going to put on, or have installed, an aftermarket hitch (probably Reece), because the XC90 Volvo hitch installation is considerably more involved than that for the V70--about 5 hours of labor! The Reece instructions give 1/2 hr of labor time! The only disadvantage for the Reece is that one would need a removable about 8" extension to allow the lower tailgate to clear the vertical member of a bike rack, but those are available for $50 or so. It wouldn't be needed for towing a trailer.
  • If you had time this would be a great guide! You can go Here to submit it!
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Posts: 3,118
    Finally got around to posting a guide. Here's the link...

    http://www.carspace.com/guides/Volvo-V70-Receiver-Hitch-Installation
  • volvo's are just good cars bar-none No matter what others think, you cant kill them and they want :) die !!!
  • 73 Challenger body only in good shape, could I throw in the
    factory 340 engine to make the offer sweet it also has a factory 4 speed console
  • Can I find a 2000, 2001 or 2002 Desiel V70 without having to drive from the right ?
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    For what country??
  • k7hpk7hp Posts: 29
    I am at 12,000 miles on a set of Michelin XGT-4 235/45/R17 on this vehicle - it was OK at first - but now has gotten so sensitive to lane ridges it is scary to drive and hold in a lane. I keep pressure at 38 lbs - tried lower but no real difference. If I hold a straight edge across the front tire tread , the center is down from 1/16 to 1/8 inch all around the tire - The backs seem to be almost flat to possibly a 1/6 bulge under the same condition. They have been rotated twice in the 12000 miles.(front to rear on same side).

    Overall tread groove depth is about 1/4 inch yet.

    1. Is this normal wear for a V70 type front end ? One garage told me that tie rod ends have been a problem on 2003 V70 - but jacking up the front end - I cannot feel any play.

    2. Any suggestions for my next set of tires - I am not after soft performance tires anymore - and 99 pecent of my driving is on HOT dry roads.

    Hank
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    I don't think you are going to find any 17" tire that isn't sensitive to lane grooves.
    BTW, hot dry roads are what performance tires were made for.
    If it really bothers you that much,you might want to consider switching to narrower 16" wheels and tires.
  • k7hpk7hp Posts: 29
    Hi volvomax - was hoping for a response from you - was fishing for any scoop on front end issues - anyhow - the Michelin XGT4's were OK at the first but got much worse as they wore (or something is going haywire in the front end)

    The day I bought the V70 2.4T it came with the 17 inch tires and I tried to get the dealer to just swap me a set of wheels and tires off a standard V70 168 hp no turbo - before I even took delivery but no luck.

    The XGT4s are basically shot - I am going to a new set of tires this week - saw some reviews of Yokohama YK520' s at Discount Tires and several guys with XC70's liked them - one guy with a S60 2.5T hated them. So new tires and off to a good alignment guy and see what happens.

    Thanks for reply - Hank
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Posts: 3,118
    Tramlining is mostly caused by the tread pattern of your tires, not the diameter of your wheels. A wider tire (like the 235 mm tires on your car) will also be more likely to do this.

    Replacing the XGT's (which have an aggressive, high performance tread pattern) with a "grand touring" or "passenger" tire should reduce or eliminate the tramlining effect. You'll also get a smoother, quieter ride at the expense of some handling sharpness and extreme cornering grip (which you likely won't miss given the non-sporting character of the V70).

    If it were me, I'd look hard at the Bridgestone Turanza Serenity. They come in your original size, and also in a narrower 215/50-17, which won't noticeably change your speedometer reading.
  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    Does this vehicle have dynamic stability control? If so, is the stability control calibrated to work with a certain size tire/wheel combo?

    OE on my 2004 base 168 hp V70 was 195/65-15, which at 25.0 inches, is almost the same overall diameter as the 235/45-17 (25.3 in), and as the proposed 215/50-17 (25.5 in).

    I think the base OE size got changed to 205/55-16 (24.9 in). Why did Volvo increase the base OE width and wheel size? Does the 195/65-15 have measurably better fuel economy?
  • k7hpk7hp Posts: 29
    This vehicle has only STC not the DSTC so that is not an issue.I would guess the 195/65-15 would have somewhat lower rolling friction but I am no expert. I just wanted the narrower tires for the reasons fedlawman and volvomax gave -but now it would cost too much to swap both wheels and tires so I am gonna stick with these - probably will trade for something with rear wheel drive before these tires are gone anyhow.I had two 1995 960's (wagon and sedan) before buying this V70 and I have never liked it as well except that is has been a lot less trouble/expense to maintain.

    I will look again at the Bridgestones you suggested. Did not see them come up in my size first time I looked.

    Thanks to all _ Hank
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Posts: 3,118
    The rolling diameter for all of these tire sizes is the same.

    Touring tires are a very good match for our V70's driving dynamics. You won't believe how much of an improvement in ride comfort and cabin noise they make.

    I had Bridgestone Turanza LS-V tires on my 2001 V70 and loved them. I just put Goodyear Assurance ComforTred tires on my 2004 V70 and love them too (comparable to the Turanza, but not available in low profile 17" sizes like yours). Here is the Bridgestone Turanza Serenity...

    http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel=Turanza+S- erenity&partnum=15VR7TSXL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes&place=0
  • It has been a while since I was here. I notice there are several that are having trouble with stalling, hesitation, acceleration and surging. This applies to 1999 through 2001 (and one 2002) 70 and 80 series Volvos. You might want to check out my ETM web site that give you the full explanation of this problem.

    http://VEXEDvolvo.org.

    I might remind you that the warranty on this part was extended to 10 years (from date of purchase) or 200,000 miles, whichever comes first. We are less than a year away from the start of the 10-year expiration (1999 model year cars started delivery in late 1998), I have had one report of a car passing the 200,000 mile limit. The repair after the warranty expiration is about $1000, plus-minus $200, depending on your relationship with your dealer.
  • I have a 2001 V70 T5, and for the second time in the last several weeks, the rear doors, hatch, and gas gauge stoped functioning. The first time it happened I removed the fuses suggested in the owners manual for those areas, and none were bad. I reinserted the fuses and everything worked... the last fuse I did that with was the central locking fuse. Now it has happened again, and again the fuses appear to be OK. I plan on replacing the fuses for these areas of the car, but didn't have any replacements handy. My question is whether or not it can be easily determined what may be causing this problem. Could it be simple corrosion in the fuse/box? Any other suggestions are appreciated, as I'd rather not spend a billion dollars trying to solve this problem. Thanks.
  • I have a 2006 Volvo V70 2.5T with just over 28200 miles. For the past few months, I've had a suspension noise coming from the right rear of the car. It sounds like a bushing squeek, well, louder than a squeek, but it is obvious. The dealer had it twice for this, the first one didn't hear the noise and sort of blew it off. The second dealer (two different dealers) didn't hear it either but attributed it to the seal around the rear door, which I didn't agree with, but they said they couldn't hear it so they went on that rather than my description of the rear suspension.

    I know what a suspension noise sounds like. It sounds like rubber against metal sort of noise. It goes away when it gets wet but as soon as it dries out, the noise is back. Unfortunately, when I brought it to the dealer that I bought it from, it was raining.

    Has anyone here had a similar problem? Or have they heard of such a problem on this particular car?

    I have to say that I had a Subaru Outback LL Bean edition before this V-70 2.5T wagon and really miss my Subaru. Not that I don't like the V-70, but I never had even one minute of problems with that car.. until some "person" ran a stop sign and smacked into the side. She hit the car so hard that it flipped over on the roof and slid about 35 feet. We were ok.. seat belts save lives!!

    This car has had several small issues, this one, a noise under the dash that sounds like a grunting noise and I think is associated with the heating system some how, a rear passenger door that make a loud squeek noise when I open it.. have lube'ed it but it still squeeks, a blown left rear tire that they charged me to replace. Just little things that drive me crazy.

    Anyway, if someone has any information, please pass it on to me.

    Thanks.
  • I have a 2002 V70 2.4T. There is a strange rattle coming from underneath the car. It sounds like a loose exhaust pipe rattling against the car. It is especially bad when the car is cold and becomes less when the car warms up but any bump or pothole brings it back. The dealer cannot replicate but they also could not replicate the thumping noise when my back wheel bearings where shot. If anyone can tell me what the problem might be, it sure would be appreciated. I have jacked the car up several times to see if I could see anything but everything looks ok. Any help? Thanks.
    By the way I have had many of the problems noted in this forum from floating shorts, burned out bulbs from front to back after I purchased the car to bearings and transmission cooler replacements. If the car was not paid off I would trade it in for something else not with a Volvo nameplate. I purchased the car for the expected Volvo safety and quality and it really never has lived up to the hype. Too much money for, in my opinion, an inferior product. At this point it is a battle of wills, how much longer can I drive it before I will get rid of it. I have spent so much money on "required" maintance and repairs that I feel I need to drive this thing for the next 10 years to break even. This has just been my experience others may vary. I sincerely hope so, for the good of your pocket book. Thanks for endulging me. :sick:
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