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Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Wagons

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  • ceeceeceecee Posts: 5
    Wow,
    Sorry to hear that. I really hope everything works out for you,
    and you and the kids will be sitting in the car soon. How come so
    long to repair?? Look at it this way...if that's the only thing to repair,
    you still got a deal considering the milleage... :P
  • My brother has a 99 Sable Wagon with 35,000 miles on it. He's the 2nd owner. It has a water leak and the passenger side floor gets wet. Any ideas where the water is entering the car at?
  • It's likely the heater core. When you touch it with your hand is it in fact water or could it be antifreeze? If it's the heater core, it's a pain in the *ss to do. Never done it on a tauris, but once took me 8 hours to do....
  • My brother said its water, not anti-freeze.
  • Did you find an answer to the problem? I have a '95 Taurus GL giving the very same problem.
  • i have a similiar prob. on my '95 Taurus LX sedan, it is on the driver's side.I have a moonroof,which has a small drain leading from it...how to get at it i don't know.do you have a moonroff in your vehicle.
  • Significant other arrived last night in her 97 Taurus wagon, with 3.0 Vulcan engine. She states that coolant guage never moved off cold, at bottom of guage range, except when off the four lane (~72 mph in cold air), in town, when it rose to more normal reading. We added about 3 qts of coolant mix this am. Any thoughts as to what may be going on? Themostat stuck open?
    Thanks. Dave R
  • I had a similar problem. Does this occur after it rains? Did you recently change your cabin air filter? Depending on how everything was put back, rain can come in through that opening and leak under the carpeting on the passenger-side floor.
  • I am having the same problem with my 2003 Taurus. First thought is that the drains were plugged and causing overflow into the air vent above the heater box, but they are not. Have no idea where to go now...
  • If you own a 2003 Ford Taurus the odds are very good that you already have, or are just about to have your Defrost Blower Motor go out.

    We noticed a puddle of water on the passenger side floor very soon after we bought the car. It turns out that due to a design defect, water can get into the heater system and ends up on the floor. We took the car to the dealer twice (under warranty) to have this addressed. What the dealer didn’t tell us- is that the blower motor and resistor wind up sitting in a puddle of water.

    You don’t need to be an electrical engineer to figure out what happens next. This week the weather turned cold and the blower motor burned out. Back to dealer, 3rd time, charged nearly $300 to replace the blower motor. They told us sorry, not a warranty issue!

    Ford has issued at least 2 TSBs on this, and they know it is a design issue. There hasn’t been a recall so they tell you to get lost.

    If you have a 2003 Taurus, this will probably happen to you. If it already has do us all a favor and file a complaint with the National Highway Transportation Safety Administration. Link below:

    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/

    You will need your VIN # to complete the process, but aside from that it is easy.

    If enough people complain, they will make Ford issue a recall and correct this under warranty.
  • Greetings,
    My Keyless entry for a 2001 Mercury Sable Wagon LS is not working. I have replaced the battery and the unit is not responding. Does anyone have any ideas?

    Thanks.
    -Geoff
  • ceeceeceecee Posts: 5
    I have a 92 Wagon. Runs great,sometimes not.In the long run,does me fine.Past couple of days I have been smelling burnt rubber.Checked under the hood,nothing. Comes through the vents,but only when I'm mobile. When I try to duplicate it stationary,doesn't happen. I think it's coming from the left front tire. Yet,it's not flat,worn,etc.Any ideas? :confuse:
  • Trying to replace my license plate bulbs due to an inspection rejection.....apparently missing a bulb socket also....any instructions available for accessing the two bulbs??
  • Well in my view it should NOT take a company like Ford to make a better version of a car in 5 years?!?!? But I do own a 1994 Ford Taurus Wagon and I'm happy but mainly because I'm able to do my own work on the car. At 140,000 miles the ball joints were shot, highway only for the most part and that would include the Stabilizer tie rods going much sooner. Moog has a great fix for this problem. Moog does allot of suspension problem solving. I'm at 252,000 and rebuilding the whole suspension including springs. It's a wondeful car on the highway if you know how to take care of it. Engine is running perfectly to date and the Tranny is showing signs of failure, but that is pretty good after 12 years! If you are looking to improve your Ford Taurus I will let you know how this next rebuild goes... Going greasable everything that I can find, Swaybar ties, Lower ball joints, Tie rods... Whatever I can find... Need tranny info if anyone has any on a 1994 Taurus Wagon LX...

    Thanks and I hoped I helped and willing to hel many more..!

    Gerald
  • I have a 2000 Ford Taurus Wagon (I know you feel bad for me). My brake lights are currently not working. I am in a pinch I really need to know how I fix those. Any suggestions. Unfortunately I can't find the owners manual on how to fix this problem. Please help!!!!!!!!
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Just a hint. Seems all American manufacturers have gone to cheap wiring. That is lighter guage and fewer strands. Result wires breaking at points of flex, particularly doors. Your wagon gate is such. Vulnerable are speakers, tag light, etc. But of great concern is the brake light circuit because of the third light location. This can short out the entire circuit. Complain to NHTSA and maybe enough complaints will force ford to recall and fix all. I've already repaired at least three broken wires in that area of flex, inside the rubber boots.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    Before you go jumping to conclusions, I would check to see if your Taurus was included in the brake light switch recall that I believe applied to all 2000 Tauri. My sedan was recalled, though I never had problems with the switch. You can call any Ford dealer and if you have the VIN they can tell you whether the switch was replaced when the recall occurred several years ago. I would not first assume that you have broken wires in your tailgate.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    My wifes vehicle is a 97 and from what I've heard all wagons from 96 on have same back end.
    Trouble shooting switch is pretty easy.
    Broken wires in the rubber boot of the lift gate is pretty common. The only wire that would force a recall will be the one for the third brake light. Speakers, tag light, etc will not force a recall as quickly as the brake light being out. If the insulation of the wire also breaks allowing a short, then possibly a fire hazard or at least a blown fuse in the lighting or other circuits. And so with the brake light as well. I know I had a blown fuse from such but don't remember which lighting circuit it was. So check fuses as well.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Your vehicle would have the AXOD-E, which is the same basic tranny since inception of Taurus. Basic I say because there have been a number of small modifications over the years. The E version having a major change in the valve pack bolted up (under the side cover) where shifting is accomplished via the computer. Prior it was done by pressures developed inside the transmission. Changes over the years might include better seals, change out of some springs inside the pack, removing or adding check balls, drilling orifices to slightly larger size, and a change of the tubes located in the bottom pan. This last one Ford knows of because they sell the tube/s. I may have gotten the springs through Ford as well. I know I got some but don't remember which as I had a broken modulator spring as well (also common). The tube change may have been done because of inadequate lubrication to a point. Hazy memory after 10 years. There are like maybe 5 tubes visible when pan is removed. You will see a bracket holding them, but they are also loctite into the holes they go into. (one has just a reduced end to squirt oil into the area. This can be done without pulling tranny, but you will have to wait until all fluid has dripped down and solvent clean the ports for new loctite. One tube may be reused, just in a different location. A new tube is used for the redirection. In addition to the lubrication issue, it may affect the apply rate of one of the clutches. Your vehicle may already have this change but I don't remember when it came out.
    Transmission shops seem to have a new rule when it comes to this family of transmissions. If you have high milage, like maybe 100K and fluid has never been serviced, do nothing. Apparently the anti-oxidants in the fluid wear out way before this point. Consequently burning of clutch surfaces. New fluid tries to remove it, resulting in slippage. It is my understanding they've gone this way because of the ensuing trouble, they've ended up paying for rebuilds. I personally did AX4-S about 2 years ago with 100K. The S is and updated AXOD-E. In fact, the pans are the same and may have that stamped into them. I did it as soon as we got the vehicle, total flush. Later, I noticed it was wanting to do early TCC lock and late release. 2 years later I'm getting P1744 code, intermittantly, which indicates slippage. Shop announces new tranny. Think it was sloppy troubleshooting. Maybe the fluid wasn't up to snuff? Decided to try the flush again. While getting it and filter, I noticed that lubeguard has a flush product. The transmission rebuilders of america recommend the lubeguard in all rebuilds. Also developed many of the improvements, not Ford. I give the flush a try. I'm shocked at how dirty the fluid seems after 35K. Not sure of specifications on the Coastal brand from Autozone used last time. Used Walmart Mercon this time. (Make sure you use what your tranny call for) Disconnected lower cooler line and pumped old from converter as new was added. (16 1/2 quarts for me) No code reset yet. The lubeguard flush may have removed residues that weren't previously gotten. (cut engine the moment it seems to be near pumped empty from pan, each time) I will not add Lubeguard this time because it isn't a rebuild. Part of its function is friction modifier, less wear on metal parts too. Prevents harsh shifts also. But with wear and age on this tranny, it may induce to much slippage.
  • bahlgbahlg Posts: 1
    I am looking at 2003 Taurus Wagon with the 3rd seat in the back. What is the safety of this for children? I have a call into my state police to find out the law, but does anyone else do this? I rarely have a need to put more than 3 children in my car, so the 2nd seat has always been enough room, but I love the idea of being able to put 2 more in there..I just haven't seen it done since I was child. Thoughts?
    Thanks!
  • myxomyxo Posts: 5
    Hi All,
    I have a 1999 Taurus Wagon, this afternoon while driving, I realized that when increasing speed up to 60mph on the freeway there is this rattling from the engine that sounds almost like a diesel, a kind of intense knocking.( I drive about 70 miles a day.)
    I went to my local mechanic (very nice guy) where the problem didnt show up till the car was in gear and you rev it. (ie if its in park and you rev it, you dont hear the diesel like sound.)
    The mechanic says its a motor problem (by the way he isolated the sound, by listening through a hose...touching it to different parts of the engine to find where the sound was oroiginating, which felt kind of unscientific for me.) I figured I'd go get a second opinion tomorrow, but wanted to ask here, just incase there are some suggestions.He says motor repair will cost about $2,000+ . He suggested trading it in and not repairing it as it could develop other problems, so I dont think he was just trying to make some money off me by misdiagnosing the problem.
    At this age and mileage (130,000miles) I dont want to spend too much on the car as it may not be worth that much more.And there could be further problems , whereby I might end up spending say $5000 or more ....you get my drift :)
    If I could get it to last for about 5 more months, I'd be ready to get a new vehicle around then.
    I will take it to a dealer as a last resort, but they will probably charge $100 - 200 just to diagnose the problem (just guessing at the moment).
    2. Has any of you dealt with companies like firestone etc for jobs of this type
    Any recommendations of any sort will be appreciated.
    thanks
    Myxo
  • I have 2000 Merc Sable w/ 164,000 miles and the std V6 (not the 24 valve). Some pinging is normal w/ the std V6 according to the owners manual. I didn't like it, so I started running 93 octane back around 50,000 miles and it hasn't made a sound since. I also love the extra power when I want it, or better gas mileage (you can't have both if you like passing people). I can squeeze out 29-30 mpg vs only 28 on the 89 octane.

    Pinging can also be harmful to the life of the engine, depending on how severe it is. That makes the higher cost of the premium gas worth it, even if you didn't get better gas mileage.

    Before selling it, or putting a lot of money into it, I would suggest first trying a tank of premium gas along with a good fuel system cleaner. If it disappears, that was your problem. You may still have to run premium, but as I said earlier, you prolong the life of the engine, you enjoy more power, and you can get better gas mileage if you want it.

    I plan on driving mine to 225,000 before giving it to my daughter for her first car. It has been a fantastic car, but then I'm a nut on maintenance. When it comes time to replace, I hope to get a new Ford 500 or Freestyle.

    Let me know what happens.
  • myxomyxo Posts: 5
    Thanks Beancounter,
    I appreciate you taking the time to share this tip. I will definetely try it in a couple of days when its time to fill up.
    I have been driving it "slowly and evenly" , hoping it keeps going to end of the year when car deals may be sweeter.
    Incidentally, I only get about 16-18mpg. Been that way for a while.
    I also want to change my oil soon at about 2500miles. It just occured to me the other day that this problem could be because I mixed oil grades about 2weeks before this problem began. I mistakenly picked up 10w40 castrol (a whole case from sams). I used about 2 bottles before realizing it, so I ttopped it off with 3.5 more bottles of 5w30of the same brand and SAE, probably a big mistake.
    I will give you some feedback soon as I try the premium fuel.Keeping my fingers crossed.
    cheers
  • I will assume it was during an oil change that you "used about 2 bottles...", and not that the car is burning that much oil. I don't know enough about cars to say for sure that was the cause of the problem, but I'm sure mixing weights is not a recommended practice. I am changing oil about every 4,000 hiway miles and I might be using 1/2 a qt between changes. Let me know what happens with the prem gas and system cleaner.

    I have stayed away from the "chain" repair stores and the dealerships. I found a good local mechanic that I have gotten to know very well and have complete faith in. He doesn't have to answer to shareholders or some big corporate office. All I get is honest answers and no high pressure. I have turned all maintenance over to him including brakes, and exhaust work (if and when I need that). His prices may be a little higher if you had the exact same work done elsewhere (and I'm not even sure that's true), but I know he has saved me a ton by not selling me a lot of unnecessary parts & labor. The money I pay him also stays right in the local economy. I finally got my dad convinced to find a local mechanic where he lives after showing him what his maintenance per 1000 miles was costing him compared to mine. Dealer wanted $600 or so to fix an A/C problem. His new mechanic took the time to diagnose the problem and fixed it for about $150. Needless to say, I don't think he'll be going back to his dealership any time soon. Since then, he has had a few other things done. He now enjoys peace of mind when he drops his car off, something he never really had much of before.
  • myxomyxo Posts: 5
    Hi BeanCounter,
    Yes it was during an oil change, I had gone out and bought a box of oil, somehow I picked up a 10w40 instead of 5w30 that I normally use. I noticed my error only after I had drained the engine and poured in a couple of bottles, so I added a few bottles of 5w30 that I had around the garage.
    I actually dont use any oil between oil changes (as the level seems to be well maintained.)

    I have been using the high octane gas for about a week and a half. I would say there is a huge improvement in the performance. (I changed my oil too around the same time even though it wasnt 3000 miles yet(back to 5w30). But I think the improvement is likely due to the unleaded premium. Anyways,I will keep observing the car. The knocking is not totally eliminated, but its not as bad as before. My next move is to use some engine additive( I used Seafaom sometime ago)..I just need to research which brand is ideal.

    I agree with you about using local(trusted) mechanics. I actually have developed a freiedship with mine. Interesting thing is that I bought him some gifts at Xmas time, that seemed to have been highly appreciated, as the relationship has solidified. He even shows me how to fix some simple things myself so I dont have to pay any thing (like when my antifreeze reservoir was leaking and he gave me instructions on how to replace it. I bought the reservoir from the dealer and in 10 min had it repaired.)

    I will post any change in the performance.. I hope it keeps improving.
    Again, thanks for sharing. I think your high octne tip will end up helping my engine last a little longer.
    cheers
  • beancounterbeancounter Posts: 31
    Sorry it took so long to respond. Forgot I had posted a message here.

    In addition to the higher octane gas, there was a TSB (Tech Service Bulletin) issued to the dealers re: excessive pinging or knocking. Back at around 30K miles, I had them perform what they called an "Octane adjstmt" while the car was still under warranty. It helped a little (and I was using 89 oct at the time), but I later had to make the switch to 93 octane, and that took care of the rest of the noise. It hasn't made a sound since, and I'm at 165K now. If you've never had it done, it may solve the rest of your problem too. Your dealer may even do that at no charge, or your own mech may be able to do the same thing. I think all it was was a slight reprogramming of the engine's computer.

    My mechanic also has a 3 part fuel system cleaner that he performed on my car at around 90K. Cleaned everything including cylinders, injectors, upper and lower intakes, and throttle body. That may be something to look into also. I'm sure it probably does a better, or more thorough job than the "off the shelf" additives, but then it cost quite a bit more. Only had it done that one time, but I thought it was worth it. It may also give you a noticeable boost in gas mileage.

    Keep me posted.
  • oldrndirtoldrndirt Posts: 1
    This noise, about the fequency of an ambulance siren, cuts in about 30mph and increases as wheel rotation increases. It's coming from the left front wheel brake area. The car is a '99 Taurus wagon, standard, with four wheel disk brakes and ABS.
  • kshamksham Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 Ford Taurus with 60K miles on it. The 'Service Engine Soon' light came on in December. The repair shop ran the diagnostics and said there is no problem. Later, it was checked again and they replaced the EGR sensors. the light is still on. Each time the diagnostics are run, it goes away for 15-25 miles, then returns again. Any idea what may be causing it?
  • tkfitztkfitz Posts: 95
    They need to pull the code/s when the light is on...OBDII will store some codes but others you need to check with the light actually on. Some "faults" can be traced to bad wiring or ground faults. Vulcan engines will also plug the EGR tubing in the manifold with carbon...older model engines also had a small tube to the sensor that can go bad. Vacuum leaks...?? Did they clear the codes??
    Try a different repair shop?
  • kshamksham Posts: 2
    The 'service engine soon' light was on each time it was checked. I need to try a different repair shop to see what their take is on this.
This discussion has been closed.