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Subaru Legacy/Outback

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  • armac13armac13 Posts: 1,129
    I said worst, not craziest - that title goes to Montreal, no contest. ;~)

    Ross
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,860
    LOL, touché!

    Steve
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  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,732
    Actually I live in Dutchess (just outside of Poughquag, Town of Beekman) a few miles off of the Taconic Pkwy - but close enough. Both of us are engineers, owned Toyota Camry's (90 vs 92 ?), and I almost bought my OB at Colonial but decided to buy local at the last moment. OB wagons with H4 automatics. And we seem to agree on most things.... Twin sons of different mothers???

    Steve
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,732
    Mike,

    Mine actually has considerable downforce at the outer edges keeping a tight seal on the hood surface by way of the silicon bumpers and the paint protector tape squares they supply. I would call it a successful design.

    Greg, I think I may have mentioned that I used the spare tapes to cover the underside hood edge where the wraparound plexyglass just touches the paint. My OCD at work.....

    Steve
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,732
    Craig, Juice, et al...

    You are quite right about a possible change in design. I had to replace manifold gaskets on my ancient Maxima, and discharged the rail as you described. But thinking about it, when I changed the fuel filter on my Toyota, I braced for sprayed fuel, but got very little.

    I guess pressurization must now occur rapidly enough to give instant starting. Still, EFI injectors yield poor spray patterns if the rail pressure is low, and that sounds like what is at play here on cold starts. I still think that something is not sealing properly when cold and curbing the pumps efficiency.

    Again, my 'old knowledge' may be flawed, but I remember that the Datsun used a loop type rail to maintain volume reserve and pressure. Excess / overpressure was shunted back to the tank by exceeding spring tension on a one way valve. Maybe bad???

    Steve
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Chris: while adjusting the timing on my Miata, we played with it until we heard knock. To me, it sounds like a wood pecker, pecking away on a tree. Very loud, very distinct. I don't think you have a knock, else you'd be sure of it.

    Jillian: just give it enough time for the oil pressure to build (at least 10 seconds) before you drive off.

    Keith: I saw an Escort that had been broken into in my neighborhood, and called the cops. When they came, we took a close look and the thieves had pried open the door, bending the door frame to get in. So a determined theif will get in anyway, and do more damage while they're at it.

    Insurance rates are about average, so I think the design is sound.

    -juice
  • goosegoggoosegog Posts: 206
    Thanks Steve, I wasn't looking for compliments, just emphasising the handling and balance of the OB. I think the lemon yellow Pacer might have either swapped ends or more likely just plowed straight on. But lousy handling apart it wasn't a bad car. And yes, I am glad it wasn't a semi.

    We have an inch or two of wet snow this morning and my carpool vehicle, a Nissan Xterra, did not impress. Some roads are cleared and wet, others are covered in snow, and there's patches of all sorts in between. He used 2WD all the time because the 4WD is only usable in very slippery or rough conditions, and you have to go very slow to engage or disengage it. How useful is that for commuting?
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    True 4WD vehicles are pretty useless on-road if the surface is not slippery enough to compensate for binding. In marginal situations -- such as melting snow or partially plowed roads -- it's a tradeoff between the added traction and it's downsides (difficult steering and unpredictable handling). I have heard numerous calls into Car Talk where people ask why their 4WD vehicles are so hard to steer or have such bad handling in these conditions. A lot of people are shocked to find out that it's actually more dangerous to drive! Definitely a reason why AWD is better suited for the real world.

    Craig
  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    Like the tape idea for the deflector. Think I'll give a try. Since I work in Hopewell Junction, that makes us closer sons of different mothers. :)

    Greg
  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    Just put Yokohama Aegis' on my Sienna replacing the Firestone Affinitys. Big difference in snow capabilities. The Firestones were terrible in snow. Even had a real apples-apples test between the two. My sister in-law has the same minivan with original Firestones in good condition. Recent snow fall, we had a hard time getting her minivan up the driveway, but ours went up without any slippage. I would recommend them. The Goodrich M65s also rated high in snow capability (for an all season tire). Check out CRs recent review of tires.

    Greg
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Well put, Craig.

    -juice
  • 99gs99gs Posts: 109
    I seem to remember someone posting that they put larger wheels on an L Wagon. If I wanted to get an L Wagon rather than a GT, can you put the 16" wheels along with the 225/60 (Outback) tires on the L wagon?
    I believe the GT comes with 205/55 stock. For a second car or for that matter a first, the L has a lot going for it. Jack
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,732
    Hopewell Junction.... IBM by any chance?

    Steve
  • roflickroflick Posts: 14
    I want to replace the bulbs in the fog lamps of a '01 outback. I refered to the owners manual, but it says that it is difficult and let a service department take care of it. It can't be that difficult. Does anyone know where I can find instructions on this?

    Please help if possible.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I would measure clearance to the rear spring base on the L models. I doubt it'll take a tire that much taller than stock. My guess is it would rub.

    Also remember you're changing gearing rather significantly. The Outback has a 4.1:1 final drive, but the L has a taller 3.7:1 ratio, something like that. So you'll slow it down off the line, but get lower revs on the highway. Your speedo would be something like 7% off, too.

    So if you wanted a Plus One, I would recommend GT sizes, 205/55R16, not Outback sizes.

    -juice
  • I have a '98 Outback Limited. At 46K miles, I had an oil leak that was covered under warranty. Now at 68K miles i have 3 oil leaks that have coat me over $1,500 to repair. Subaru says "to bad". Yes the oil was changed every 3M miles. Has anybody had similar problems?
  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    Bingo! Actually, IBM is my customer. I use to work for them before the huge layoffs 8 years ago. I jumped ship before the ax came down. Phew.

    Martin - Oil leaks, unfortunately, are a known issue with the "older" H4s (pre 2.5L). I would call 800-SUBARU3 and complain. You might be able to convince them to help out since it only has 68K miles on it and current powertrains are warranted for 60K miles. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

    Greg
  • After smacking a curb last week with the LR tire, I took several of your recommendations, and got my '02 OB aligned. As it turned out (if I can trust the tire shop that did the work), the rears were fine - it was the fronts that the toe-in had to be adjusted. Glad I did no major damage.

    David
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,732
    This is an interesting dance. OK, I will go first:

    I work in B/310 - the Analytical Services lab (2-2381). My screen name FIBBER comes from what my team members are called - those of us involved with an obscure corner of the world of physics/chemistry/electrical engineering: Focused Ion Beam (FIB).

    Do you work for the site contractor Johnson Controls, or one of the big tool suppliers like AMAT? We need to get together for lunch someday....

    Steve
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,860
    Your email address in your profile is bouncing. You may want to check it.

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • rob999rob999 Posts: 233
    to Roflick:

    I had to replace a rock-damaged fog light assembly - access to the bulb is somewhat similar and I believe you'll have to partially remove the lamp assembly to replace the bulb.

    Go up behind the spoiler from underneath to get access to the clips that hold the whole assembly in. As I recall, they look like big Phillips screws (they're similar to the quick release plugs that hold the plastic oil pan shield in place). Pull out the center sections with the Phillips head, then the outer collar, and the fog light assembly should come out for bulb replacement.
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Posts: 1,676
    I did find your case today. I apologize for the delays - The Representative that is investigating your concern is down with the flu. I'll be calling your dealer to see if something can be done to help you.

    Once again, sorry for the problem and the delays.

    Patti
  • oclvframeoclvframe Posts: 121
    I have just about had enough of the dealer that I have been going to here in Atlanta for service....I guess I am the dummy because I keep going back to them. At issue is my last visit to them. I took the oportunity of my day off on Monday to drop the car off for an oil change (free with the Bean but starting to become not worth it). I also asked for an alignment for two reasons...1) no car comes aligned from the factory and I have been begging them to do this since 3000 mi... and 2) my left front tire was starting to show signs of wear on the outer edge. When I picked the car up I was told that they did not do the alignment since the tire wear was normal and two tire techs looked at the car and it appeared to be fine?!? The next day I took my car to a local tire shop and low and behold...the toe is out more than twice the allowable limit on the left front....hmmmmm.

    This is very annoying. I will probably not use this dealer again (Troncalli in Roswell). My plan now is to take them the before and after sheet from the alignment shop and make them pay for the alignment (it would have been covered by warranty if they'd only done what I'd asked).

    Sorry....I just had to vent my frustrations. I guess here in the South our dealer network is limited as Subarus are about as rare as Bugattis here.

    -r
  • This is a VERY small world! I work in B/640 as a programmer with ASTC Engineering Systems. This is my 20th Winter reverse commuting on the Taconic from Yorktown to Fishkill, but only my 1st with a Subaru. (It's never too late to see the light! ;-) Greg, I assume that you take the Taconic as well -- where do you get on?

    In 6 short weeks I've put enough mileage on my OBW that it goes to the dealer (Curry) for its 3K oil change on Saturday. I'm happy to report that no glitches have as yet shown up and the ECU has adjusted itself nicely to my lead foot. This car just gets better and better!

    Lyn
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    I also had a bad experience trying to get the local dealer to align my first Outback when it was new. They test drove it and thought it was fine. At 15K miles, I paid to have an alignment done ($85), and the car was worse than ever. Plus, they did not get the steering wheel lined up when the car was pointed dead ahead. While getting new tires a few thousand miles later, I got the car aligned at Firestone ($65) and it drove great thereafter.

    The overall experience gave me a pretty low opinion of the local Subaru dealer's ability to "care" about a problem. They didn't try very hard to fix it, and I got the impression they were a bunch of bozos. I was tempted to go back to them and ask for a refund on the $85 they charged me for an alignment, but decided I had better things to do with my time. I now use a different dealer, 50 miles away.

    Craig
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    You will generally get better service from a dealer that is only a subaru dealer. 90% of the subie dealers out there only carry subaru as a side-line, and therefore doesn't staff as many subie techs/trained subaru techs, etc. as they should have. I've found in general a dealer that is dedicated to subaru is one with subaru as their main show or only show.

    -mike
  • oclvframeoclvframe Posts: 121
    Here in Atlanta, there are so few Subaru dealers and each of them do such low volume that they basically have to team up with something else or not survive. I am tempted to go to the dealer that is teamed up with a Cadilac dealer...they may be more service oriented than the one I currently going to that is teamed up with a Chrysler(sic) dealer.

    -r
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    oclvframe, I hear yah on that one. I'd bet the caddy/subie dealer would be a good bet. With my Isuzu I found that a honda/isuzu was better than my toyota/isuzu/subaru dealer and only slightly further away. If the honda/isuzu dealer doesn't work out for me, there is an excellent isuzu/subaru dealer about 50-55 miles away that I'll pursue. Luckily I haven't had to bring it in since the first 3 months of ownership (about a year ago)

    -mike
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Posts: 1,676
    Can you please call us? Please have your VIN and ask the Rep. to notify me once a case is started. I understand your frustration and I will make sure it is addressed. I apologize for the rotten experience!

    Patti
  • I would love to add a sun roof on my 97 Outback.

    I don't want to pay $800 for one of those flat roofs that will be behind my head.

    Does anyone know if I can buy an aftermarket flip roof that is not flat like the newer limiteds?

    S-
    Shawn
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