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Subaru Legacy/Outback

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Comments

  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,735
    I think you hit the answer when my mentioned cracking a window. The hatch on my '02 OBW is also guaranteed to close properly on the first try if a door is open. Otherwise maybe 30% of the time it seems closed, but the dash warning light suddenly comes on. I would say that it is a well sealed car and the backpressure must be overcome with extra force. You could get the striker moved slightly, but I like the tight fit.

    Steve
  • Glad to know I'm not the only one having to slam the hatch 2-3 times to get it to close properly. If the mat doesn't seem to be getting in the way, how hard do you think it is for the DYIer to adjust the striker? Would you recommend leaving it for the dealer?

    Thanks,
    David
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    When the door seal starts leaking! :) In all seriousness these cars are sealed pretty well and like fibber2 said above I rather have a tightly sealed door than a leaky one.

    -mike
  • eric102eric102 Posts: 122
    I've never had to slam my hatch on my 02 OBW, it always closes on the first try with what I would call normal effort. Never had the dash light go on either. It sounds like some of you need to get the striker plate adjusted.

    Eric
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I've taken a peek, and the striker seems easy to adjust, except it's behind two plastic trim pieces on my Forester. I hate wind noises so I'll just slam it.

    -juice
  • eric102eric102 Posts: 122
    I wonder if years of slamming will take its toll on the hatch or the wiper parts?
  • I currently own a 2000 Subaru Legacy Outback. I need to tow a Coleman popup camper that is right around 2000 lbs (empty). The towing capacity for my Subaru is at 2000. I am really hesitant to put a hitch on it for fear it won't be able to handle it. Why is the towing capacity so low, even on the newer H6-3.0 3.0L Subaru? The 3.0 L Ford Escape with less HP advertises 3,500 lbs. What is THE determining factor in the tow rating?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Engine, Brakes, Chassis. Most important is the chassis, 2nd is the brakes, 3rd is the engine. Most engines can handle towing even the H4 can probabably tow well. The Wheelbase and chassis are probably the limiting factor as well as risk-benefit analysis by the manufacturer, subaru is traditionally more conservative than ford (can we say low psi in the explorer tires) I'd say a 2000lb trailer + gear would not be an issue on an H6 Outback.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Just lower the hatch, and push it in while you close it. It actually doesn't require lots of physical force.

    There are some towing topics here in the Town Hall where trailer brakes (add-on kits) are discussed. With those you ought to be fine.

    -juice
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    Don't forget the transmission -- it's usually the first thing that will overheat or fail when towing something too heavy. On 5-spd cars, it's an issue of whether or not the clutch can handle starts. On auto cars, it's an issue of the transmission fluid overheating. This is especially problematic when towing in hilly areas and/or in hot weather.

    Craig
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    This is true too, but generally the trannies in the subies are pretty strong, and a simple tranny cooler can overcome that problem.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I found it interesting that the auto tranny models get an engine oil cooler that the manuals do not, and also that it's for engine oil rather than tranny oil.

    I bet the auto is better suited for towing.

    -juice
  • aps5aps5 Posts: 43
    Got the LL Bean this weekend, and we are very impressed. First question: on the auto climate control, is there a way to cycle through "mode" that doesn't turn on the ac as you choose the mode?
    That is, can the ac be turned off during manual mode. It seems that the ac turns on briefly when choosing the mode, which can't be good.

    Also, we want to tint the rear windows, and I wonder if window tinting may affect the frameless window seal..... Anyone have experience with this?

    And, anyone have the Bridgestone Potenza's in snow?
    We use Nokian Hakkapaliita's for snow usually, and they are the best. If the stock tires are ok, I would love to save $500.

    Thanks....
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I tinted all 4 windows that open on my Forester, and it has not had any adverse effect on window seal. My 1300psi pressure washer does not cause them to leak.

    -juice
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,735
    We had a nasty snow and ice storm here in the NE a week ago, and we did about 150 miles of driving in the thick of it. The RE-92's on our '02 OBW did OK, but then again they only have 3k miles on them. Beth and I agreed that they would probably be suitable for this year, but plan on investing in a dedicated set of snows on rims for next winter.

    Steve
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    The climate control system has many hidden features, and the owner's manual is not very good at explaining them. I'll tell you what I have been able to decipher thus far.

    If you start off in full auto mode, the temperature is the only setting you can change without forcing it into semi-auto. Once you hit the AC, fan speed, or vent mode button, the system gives you manual control over that particular mode, but maintains auto on all the other settings (hence my semi-auto label). As you fiddle with more settings, the system relinquishes its auto control. If you twiddle with all the settings, the system will finally go into full manual mode.

    I usually turn on the system by hitting "auto" once or twice (2 times puts you in econ mode which cycles the AC compressor less). If the AC light comes on (depending on the ambient temp) and it's cold and dry outside, I immediately hit the AC button to turn it off. Then, the system will have auto control over the mode and fan speed (to maintain the desired temp you set) without the AC running (again, not an issue in cold weather).

    I usually end up setting the fan speed and mode manually, so the only thing the climate control system does is try to maintain the temp I set.

    One other thing -- though it is not documented, you can put the system in a fan-off ventilation mode by hitting the OFF button, and then selecting a vent mode. You can also change to fresh or re-circ in the ventilation mode. Whatever temp setting was dialed in before you hit OFF will govern how much the vent air is heated. If you just want a cold vent, turn the temp down to 65 before hitting OFF.

    Craig
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Craig's operation of the system is similar to the one on my trooper except I have a recirc. button that is used for the outside air and when in recirc the A/C doesn't cycle. Also mine are analog guages but same electronic concept behind it.

    -mike
  • goosegoggoosegog Posts: 206
    I tow a small popup tent trailer with my 00 OB H4 5 spd. It is not 2000lbs, more like 1300 or so including the stuff we toss inside it. Power is adequate, even on 10,000 ft passes and handling is superb. Braking is OK too despite no brakes on the trailer.

    Having towed about 8,000 km so far, my opinion is that the weak spot for towing is probably the clutch. Hill starts or slow speed manouvering such as backing up an incline with the necessary deliberate clutch slip can make the clutch smell mightily. Others have complained about this.

    I have driven dozens of standards since 1964 and have much experience of juddering, slipping, falling-apart clutches, but have never experienced that burning clutch smell unless dishing out extreme abuse of the most foolhardy kind. The OB seems to do it quite easily.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Generally ATs are preferred for towing as far as I know. That could be one reason they are preferred?

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Hauling about 1500 lbs or so, I didn't have to slip the clutch too much. No bad smell. Though when I tried to teach my lil' brother to drive stick, I smelled it, so I know what you mean.

    I didn't hit any major hills, nor did I drive long distances with the trailer, though. So YMMV.

    -juice
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    I've seen guys with manual transmissions really cook their clutch at boat ramps (even on big manly trucks). All it takes is a loaded wet boat, an incline, and an uneven surface. Many boat ramps are made from big concrete blocks spaced 2-4" apart. That distance is enough to act like a chock to smaller tires, and it can really cause problems. You have to really slip the clutch at high RPM in some cases, while also trying to avoid sliding backwards into the water. Lots of fun! With an auto trans, it's usually a non-event. Just put it in "1" and press on the gas pedal.

    Craig
  • kmcleankmclean Posts: 173
    Andrew -

    We had our 2K OB wagon's "back five" windows tinted in the spring of 2000, and have survived [nearly] two Seattle winters without any leaking (and the car lives outside). We're very glad we had the tint job done.

    If you plan to keep the car for a few years or longer, I'd recommend the higher quality "metallic" film installed by a well-established shop. It's worth the extra few dollars.

    Ken in Seattle
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    H6-3.0 GT wagon in Japan

    image
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I think that is class, and it doesn't look like it gets the dumb moonroofs either! :)

    -mike
  • I have been considering having the windows in my 02 LL Bean wagon tinted as well. Any concerns with the film on the back glass defroster wires or the side glass antenna wires?
  • hypovhypov Posts: 3,068
    someone get a mop!!!
    I've made a mess of the floor. =o)
    I'll part with my OB for that GT; and no moon roof.

    -Dave
  • aps5aps5 Posts: 43
    The window tint place said you can remove the tint from all but the back window, since the wires will come off with the tint material. He uses "3M" - I don't know if this is metallic or not.

    Today I turned on the auto climate control, in the LLB 02, and immediately it said "ac". It is unclear why it did this, since humidity is low and it is cool outside..... It is frustrating to have to turn it off.
  • oclvframeoclvframe Posts: 121
    Andrew,

    I have an 01 Bean. The A/C will turn on automatically when you press the auto button...I think that is how it was designed to operate.

    If all you want is the fan...press the fan button once and set the temp you want it to blow at....you can crank up the fan speed by pressing the button consecutively. About 90% of the time I get in the car, crank it up, hit the fan button and off I go. These days I set the temp. just warm enough to cause it to heat on cold mornings. In the afternoon, I hit set the temp to 65 and it just blows fresh air at ambient temp which has been very pleasent here lately.

    As for the tint. I have all my windows tinted with fully metallic tint 35%. There is just a slight amount of added privacy, plus much cooler in the sun. No adverse effects to the seal, antenna functions, or defrost lines. BTW I used SolarWorks which is a nationwide chain that uses Lumar film...I chose the film they call the Mellinium film for the windows and Premier film for the moonroofs. If I had to do it again, I'd have tinted the moonroofs with 50% vs the 35 since up there it is virtually see-thru.

    You can see pics of my Bean at: www.gatech.edu\oit\oe\design\rob\suby\subaru.htm

    -r
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