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Subaru is close, though. In fact, Consumer Reports ranks Honda higher in the 1st year and 3rd year, but by the 5th year Subaru actually beats Honda. Check their April car issue.
The Subaru is covered under warranty for 5 years. Honda give you 3.
So the Subie is either under warranty, or more reliable after the warranty, compared to the Honda. That doesn't sound like a higher risk to me.
Forester is the most reliable Subie. CR-V is the most reliable Honda. Fact is either is a good choice.
The CR-V has that cavernous back seat, a 5 speed auto, and now VSC. Nice additions for 2005, but they still haven't addressed more obvious flaws - no true rear bumper protection, a gate that opens and blocks the curb side you'd use for loading. Top that off you have less shelter from the rain when loading groceries.
Forester has a longer warranty, 3 years' free roadside assistance, sportier handling, better overall safety scores (both IIHS and NHTSA), and a turbo option for explosive power. The only real negative is a smallish back seat.
That is offset, in my opinion, by higher payload ratings, higher towing ratings, higher roof rack capacity, and more content for each trim level.
The fire issue is serious but let's not even open that can o' worms. There is a whole thread for that.
-juice
I have to admit, I'm not a wagon kinda guy but the new Outback actually looks pretty nice ....
The system starts out with a conservative default 'map' of settings, given a whole bunch of input parameters (temp and atm pressure, throttle position, road speed, slope/load sensing, etc). If everything is working well, it gets more 'adventurous', until it gets into trouble, then it pulls back. Eventually, it settles in on parameters that work with your vehicle, your driving style, the fuel you feed it, weather and road conditions. But it is iterative, and does take some time. Some reports say a few hundred miles to strike a good balance.
So if you short change it on octane, expect it to initially knock, then (assuming it has enough lattitude, and everything is working properly), it will lock on to more conservative timing to compensate. But retarded timing raised internal temps and reduces burn efficiency, so this may cause hesitation, lower max power on demand, etc, as the rest of the system tries to control emissions. A tank of higher octane before a demanding trip might ease knocking, but I am not really sure if everything will reset fast enough to extract maximum benefit. Some day, I would love to spend some time with someone who better understands the limits of the logic employed...
Steve
H6 can get away with it, but you're better off with premium based on my past experience. The engine puls stronger throughout the rpm range on premium.
The added cost of premium is really peanuts when you think about it. Do the math and try to convince your wife that she's nuts! (I know, probably impossible).
I echo the earlier comments -- if you are concerned with fuel costs, the 2.5i models are hard to beat.
CRaig
The major downside to the CR-V is that the handling is horrible. I just don't know how anyone could choose this vehicle over a Forester or Outback. Of course it has more room on the inside, but I place a lot more empahsis on handling and the driving experience.
Craig
CRaig
-mike
Your the first person I've heard refer to the CRV having a cavernous back seat.Either your really skinny or...?What I dislike about car manufacturers nowadays is how they all say seats 5 people,but in reality its 4.5 unless your anorexic
Slightly more payload, more roof rack capacity, better gas mileage, longer warranty, roadside assistance, same quadruple 5 stars from NHTSA and an even more powerful turbo option.
Add to that H6 availability and more standard features likes heated seats. The OB is more refined than either the Forester, or the CR-V, by far, and quieter too.
And in the case of the OB you can't even complain about its back seat, which is average sized, not small like the Forester's.
lumbar: I felt the front passenger leg room in the CR-V was lacking. They should move the front seats back another 3", the back seat would still be roomy.
As for cargo, believe it or not, Consumer Reports does a biggest box test, and the volume of the box that fits in the Forester is indeed bigger than in the CR-V. So it depends on what you are carrying.
This is very strange, but it's like they build the CR-V for short parents with 2 very tall kids. The cargo area is flexible because the seats can slide forward, but still, you will have to stack things. The Forester's cargo area has more floor space. Outback more still.
mtngal was cross-shopping these, and measured from the back of the headrest to the back window. Guess what? The Forester had 7" more cargo length. That's a huge difference.
I guess the CR-V probably has about 7" more rear leg room, so that's where all the space went, LOL.
-juice
I guess you meant the CRV has deeper back seats than the Forester.
If you find the front seat passenger leg room in the CRV lacking then your wife must very tall also?
I can see how some people won't like the cramped front driver's leg room of the 05 Legacy if they have big thighs...luckily I don't.
Try this - sit there then move to the back seat. The back seat is actually roomier, especially leg room, which almost seems absurd. Kids in back, adults up front, the front seats should be bigger!
It's just a curiosity, really, they could move the front seats 3" back and noone would complain.
-juice
I KNOW if I end up at a dealer the wife is going to be p!ssed .... esp since it's MY turn for the new vehicle *grin*
Now, if I can just get the family thing in full gear I can have a valid reason for needing the Subie ... aside from the 'want' of the Subie.
Jopopsy
The Forester's bags protect the head, hence a higher score.
The Outback has side airbag curtains, and in Australia's NCAP tests it earned the highest score ever.
In the US IIHS has only tested a Legacy sedan, no Outbacks yet.
-juice
I'm one who thinks that the Forester has *more* room than the previous Outback, at least from actual experience sitting back there.
-Brian
I even have a pic for ya:
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291571095&idx=2
It may require an imagestation registration but it's worth it.
Note that width is tight, no doubt, but there is leg room to spare! These are kids, you don't need a whole lot of leg room.
-juice
That's if you see my daughter sticking out of the Legacy moonroof, that's paisan in the front seat!
:-)
-juice
Kate
In general, any coating/treatment offered by the dealer is usually overpriced and often not as effective as they make it to be. They are great ways to fatten the dealer's profit margin.
Also, I'm skeptical on how complete the undercoating can be -- it's not going to completely seal up every square inch of the underbody.
I believe Subarus come with a farily generous rust warranty. If I were you, I'd set the money aside for a regular car wash (including undercarriage) at least once a week during the winter and definetly after road salting.
KEn
-mike
If improperly applied, dealer undercoating can actually make things worse by trapping moisture. SO I would skip it alltogether. The dealer is just trying to make some extra bucks off you!
Craig
if something rusts through on a treated car esp if its an application where some aftermarket guy has put a hole into some structure etc, you can almost guarantee the manufacturer will not stand by their warranty.
alot of these treatments which come with a "warranty" of their own also need annual inspections or the company is belly up in a few years when the corrosion happens.
any car built in the last 2 decades probably does not need aftermarket corrosion treatments.
For our purposes, higher fuel prices combined with lower mileage doesn't seem prudent. So we'll probably go with the non-turbo engine.
Thanks again!
David
-juice
Kate
Well we bought a VDC in Champagne yesterday for about $400 over invoice without the dealer's undercoat. Now I (aka The Dumb Bunny) have two more questions. 1. We were offered the Subaru Gold extended warranty for around $790 with a $100 deductible, which is a discount from the full price of something like $1100. I'm not sure if it is a wise move to get it or not. I like to keep cars for about 10 years, and am a low mileage driver. The '93 Camry Mommymobile only has 67k on it.
2. We were offered a "pay up front for maintenance" for $895 versus the "pay as you go" amount of $1295(?). Is this worth it, and do you know if I have to have the work done at that particular dealer or does any authorized dealer honor it? While it was worth the trip to buy the car at a better price, it is not worth it to go back for service.
Thanks again for your help,
Kate
As for #1, you can wait until the last monute to really decide, which is just before the basic 3yr/36000mi warranty expires. If you are not sure whether you need the warranty, then wait and see how you feel in 3/36. You can find good prices for these warranties online at any time.
Personally, I pass on the warranties. Historical data shows that they are strongly in favor of the seller.
Congrats on the car BTW. I have the same color on my XT! It looks great in the sun.
Craig
CRaig
it on other autos. asked dealer if there is a way to stop this feature they say they cannot change
it. did anyone have the lights turned off for
daytime operation. seems to me it just might be a
delayed relay that works them
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
No there isn'ta fuse that just turns off the day time running lights. The fuse is all or nothing for headlights if I remember.
I believe some have turned them off via the switch hiddine in the E brake housing?
--jay
You get 3 years free, so a 7 year warranty gives you 4 more included. By itself that costs $71 per year, or $284 worth.
Then you might boost resale 6.5 years from now, and recover more of it.
So if you want the security and the other perks, it may be worth it.
-juice
Mark
-juice
One thing I noticed, but have not seen discussed, is that they had two apparently identical Legacy GT Limiteds with 17" wheels but one had a suspension set up that was higher, with more ground clearance, than the other. The cost of both cars was the same (maybe the higher one had leather or something) and in the small print on the stickers there was reference to higher suspension.
Is a higher suspension an option or standard? Does it change the cost of the car? How about the ride, road noise, etc.? All other things being equal, I think I'd prefer the higher suspension set up since the car looks better that way and because it makes it more versatile for bad weather.
Thanks for your thoughts.
The new ones come in monotone colors, and indeed they are 2-3" higher up. They look a lot alike since the two-tone is gone. Rims are different, and some labels, plus minor details.
If you're talking about wagons, the Outbacks have cross bars. On Legacy they are an accessory.
-juice
I actually started shopping for a Legacy GT wagon and ended up with an Outback XT.
Craig
Craig
-juice
The 6 cylinder LL Bean Outback stickers about $200 more than I paid for my XT, which is peanuts considering the Bean is loaded with options.
Best thing you can do is take a test drive -- don't rely on our opinions or (for heaven's sake) the opinions of auto writers! They actually messed up a lot of the details about these cars.
Craig
-juice
Jim
http://www.canadiandriver.com/roadtest/05outback_xt.htm
Any information on when the 3.0R version will be available in Canada? How about the new Outback sedan?
-alan
I know that the 2.5 XT requires premium fuel. Is that also true of the LL Bean flavor?
Thanks...
SDE
You can use lower octane in a pinch, but it's not recommended.
The more power they squeeze out of the H6, the more it'll crave octane. The old H6 made 212hp on premium and 208hp on regular, so it already preferred the good stuff.
Now that the engine is tuned for 250hp, octane becomes even more important.
-juice