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Subaru Legacy/Outback

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  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Hondas and Toyotas are not immune to problems.

    I've track driven at least 6 subarus STARTING at 100k miles and put on on 10-20k miles AT REDLINE on track with stock drivelines.

    So your arguement doesn't hold weight IMO. The head gaskets are a known issue, they changed the gasket material to fix this issue.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Outback interior is a little nicer, more upscale.

    Still, I'd pick the Forester again.

    We had a 98 Forester, an 02 Legacy, and an 09 Forester.

    My wife and I may argue over which Forester we liked best, but the Legacy would definitely fall in 3rd place. Distant 3rd.
  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    I am on my 6th Subaru with over 500K miles on these cars, never had a major engine or tranny problem. My first toyota, an 06 sienna needed a new tranny at 44K miles! S... happens even to the best.
  • Hello there, my wife and I just bought a used '97 Outback/Legacy. Is there a hatch release inside the car handy to the driver or does the hatch only open at the rear?
  • dcm61dcm61 Posts: 1,475
    There's no separate hatch release. Only opens at the rear.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    The rear hatch unlocks with the doors.

    -mike
  • We are about to purchased a used 2000 outback, our second, it has the factory installed stereo without the cd player, but the unit is set up for the cd- has all the buttons, etc- is there any place that still sells the single units that go with this car and stereo? Where would I find them. Thanks
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,587
    The two most likely places to look are probably an online Subaru parts supplier or a scrapyard, depending on whether you are looking for a used or unused unit. The supplemental (add-on) CD player in my 1996 Outback was a Panasonic unit. I am not sure, however, if they changed to another supplier by 2000.
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I would shop for a 6CD changer out of a WRX from 2002 or so.

    The harness plugs right in, no hassles, and that double-DIN sized unit fits where the regular radio and single CD add-on would go, so the size is perfect.

    I put one in a 2002 Legacy. I put a 2nd one in a 1998 Forester.

    There is one hard-to-reach bolt, you'll need a long phillips screw driver with a magnetic tip.

    But the harness fits so it is easy-peasy-lemon-squeezy.
  • dmurr3dmurr3 Posts: 11
    Hi, I'm trying to help a friend whose 1999 Outback Legacy is stuck in downtown Boston. The car has power but won't start. Does that sound like a dead starter? Years ago I remember on some cars, if you were really lucky, you could give the solenoid a few whacks and that might get it started. Anyone know if this works in a 99 Outback? Any thoughts on a solution (other than having the car towed!) would be much appreciated. thanks!
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,587
    It depends on the problem. If the solenoid is sticking, the whacking could help. If the starter is "dead," no, it won't help start the car, but it might make you feel better! Starter replacement is a very simple task, so if there is a strong possibility that the problem is the starter, your friend could buy one and install it on site.
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    If it's a manual they could push start it.

    Not as easy with AWD but it can be done.
  • baccus49baccus49 Posts: 60
    Is it able to be shifted? Sometimes the gear shifter needs shaken a bit to make sure it is in park. The car will start only in Park or Neutral, but if it is not fully in Park, it won't start.
  • awrenchawrench Posts: 2
    I have a 1996 Outback Legacy 2.5 Liter that was succumbed to high level flooding in the Houston, TX. area. I drove home from work during a very long unrelenting rainfall. I started noticing a wining drone sound coming from the car only when driving at 15-25 mph. It made a loud squeal when I went into reverse. The next morning the squealing sound happened driving forward and reverse. The whine doesn't sound like belts. It sounds more metallic. I checked the transmission fluid and the transaxle fluid and both show no evidence of water/cloudy appearance. I would like to know if there is anybody who may know where to start focusing on repairs. There is no squealing at idle or reving up to 2500 rpms. The sound seems to originate from the wheel or axle? Could it be the antilock brakes malfunctioning? Thank you in advance for any suggestions.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,587
    I would start with flushing all of the car's fluids and see where that leaves you. It definitely sounds like the issue lies in the transaxle, but no way of knowing for sure what you have to work with unless the water is eliminated first. Perhaps there is an additive you can put in the transmission fluid to drive out any remaining water after you flush it?
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Could be a bad wheel bearing. Have those inspected.
  • senturi1senturi1 Posts: 8
    I recenlty was told by our Subaru service advisor that I needed to replace the front axle seals on our 2002 2.5 Legacy Outback. This issue started when I noticed a smell coming from under the car while the engine was running. Also, this odor was noticed while driving with the blower and AC on. The 2002 Outback has very low mileage; about 24500 and I'm the original owner. The Outback is serviced regularly; i.e. oil changes and PM. My question is how this can happen, and how major is this repair job?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    The axles on our 626 leaked but I think it was caused by damage from a rock or debris. The rubber was torn, basically.
  • guzda53guzda53 Posts: 2
    I can't find the fuel filter. Manual says on front strut tower on driver's side by windshield washer reservoir tank. I bought a new one but can't find location? Car was purchased in July 2004. Was filter eliminated?
  • satyrezsatyrez Posts: 1
    Hi ,any updates on your Subaru, I have the same problem right now, seems like "a fluid" is dripping on my exhaust and leaves me with a strong burning smell... any news on this....
  • I just bought a 2003 LL Bean Outback with 105,000 miles. My Subaru clan of friends told me, "It's just getting warmed up". However, no one can relate to my alarm system experience: If I get out of the car, shut the door - and don't lock it - and wait about 20 seconds or so, the car's lights will flash and it's armed itself on its own. Now, I can open the car door - it hasn't locked itself - but the car's alarm will go off. I discovered this when I first put gas in the car and went to get back in after the fill-up. Imagine my surprise. I've since tested it in the privacy of my garage and I'm baffled. I have another car that will re-lock and arm itself if you remote unlock it and don't open the door within 30 seconds, but nothing like this. So every time I get out and shut the door, I have to be sure to either lock it or remind myself to "unlock" it before getting back in - even though it's NOT locked - because the alarm will go off. Love the car so far, but this is the oddest "security" feature I've ever come across. Is this an LL Bean "bright idea" that's since been wisely discontinued or is something malfunctioning?
  • just bought a 3.6 liter outback(automatic) with 45 miles on it drove it 300 miles and experienced transmission problems seven times; popping, grinding, revving, pausing and then lurching forward. The car is now back with the dealer. Any advise?
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,735
    edited December 2010
    I have a thought on your 'self arming' system. I have an '02 Outback Wagon and installed the Subaru OEM Security System kit myself. In '03 it was changed slightly when it became a standard feature, but it is probably overall quite similar in layout and operation.

    There actually is a passive arming mode that can be activated by plugging in a connector located down by the fuse box on the lower left drivers side foot well. However, it still requires that you use the door locks prior to closing the door (no key fob needed to set the alarm). If that feature had been hardwired in *and* there was some logic confusion, it could cause this. See if your owners manual covers the location of the connector, and disconnect it.

    Another possibility is a problem with the shock sensor. In normal operation, if you rap the windshield or rock the body, it will sound a warning chirp. Approximately 30 seconds later the system switches to full armed mode. I'm wondering if it is confused, and sees the door closure as the first act of warning mode, then switches into full armed / alarm mode as you say about 20 seconds later.

    The module is located deep in the dash behind the radio - a real pain to get at if it needs replacing. Maybe you can regain control by cycling the system between normal and valet mode. In valet mode, the alarm should not operate when a door is opened. Worst case - ditch the alarm by leaving it in valet mode.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    A friend just got a Fiesta, and her trans crapped out 3 times. They finally did replace the whole thing and gave her a free extended warranty for the hassle.

    Hang in there, work with your dealer, make sure they get you a loaner and provide long-term coverage for the trans at least.
  • CV Joints are on drive axle covered by rubber type boots for turning shaft flexibility. Rubber dries out & deteriorates over years exposed to the elements road salt, hot air,rock tossed up (cuts it) etc. causing moly grease within for lubrication to dry out causing metal on metal within the joint. Myself in Palm Springs with ave summer temps 105-110 degrees... will substantially reduce the life span of boot and CV joint. At 71,000 I am now replacing my 2002 Subaru drive axle. Also, when boot then cv joint go undue pressure is put on inner & outer wheel bearings and seals which keep the grease from breaking down which then need replacement. I trust this is helpful. JACK
  • SaveReplyEditDelete#11727 of 11727 Re: 2002 Subaru Outback Axle Seals Replacement [senturi1] by cosmicm Feb 14, 2011 (3:01 pm)
    Replying to: senturi1 (May 20, 2009 1:14 pm)

    CV Joints are on drive axle covered by rubber type boots for turning shaft flexibility. Rubber dries out & deteriorates over years exposed to the elements road salt, hot air,rock tossed up (cuts it) etc. causing moly grease within for lubrication to dry out causing metal on metal within the joint. Myself in Palm Springs with ave summer temps 105-110 degrees... will substantially reduce the life span of boot and CV joint. At 71,000 I am now replacing my 2002 Subaru drive axle. Also, when boot then cv joint go undue pressure is put on inner & outer wheel bearings and seals which keep the grease from breaking down which then need replacement. I trust this is helpful. JACK
  • druperdruper Posts: 3
    Hi, does anyone know why a plug wire would ground out on my coil? I have a 1996 outback 2.5 automatic. Just replaced spark plugs and wires and coil. Ran great for two weeks, then started missing under a load. Saw a spark jumping from underneath the wire boot at the coil. Put the old coil back on and still did it. Put another set of new wires on and still does it on the same wire in the same place on the coil. Any ideas? Could the new spark plug on that wire be bad? Thanks.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,587
    It sure could. The spark is going to take the path of least resistance, so it is possible that the charge being generated in that wire is not finding the proper grounding path (which is through the plug).
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Could also be that it isn't fully pushed onto the coil pack?

    -mike
    Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,587
    I thought about that, too, but what are the chances that four different attempts yielded the same results? Of course, it does take a fair bit of effort to make sure they are fully seated.... It is certainly a possibility!
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
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