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Subaru Legacy/Outback



  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,729
    Yep, I did that Fall '02 when I got the snows. It was a one-time investment in planning & labor that pays dividends for years. I am sure that they must be out there, but I couldn't find any hooks commercially available that work as well as what I made.

    Still, it takes some expertise to heft 50lbs up over your head and on to the hook.

    (after that trip, anything can seem easy.....)

  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 39,015
    Heh, I've dropped my 60+ pound canoes a few times too many as it is (broke my driver's side mirror on the van doing that).

    Luckily my designated storage area on the back porch is more of a utility than public area and it's a short roll to get the tires out there twice a year.

    I am inclined to take a rubber mallet to the spare tire holder in the Outback so the full size spare will ease in there a little easier.

    Steve, Host
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    First you need, then I guess you need a tire rack! ;-)

  • steine13steine13 Posts: 2,411
    Learned Friends,

    I just had the pleasure of test-driving a '98 Legacy Wagon, 5sp, 79k, well maintained and fairly clean. Asking $6,700; wholesale value -- as appraised on another board, and by the local Toyota dealership -- is $4,500 "real money". So I went and looked at it.

    Two things turned me off, one which I understand and another which I don't.

    (i) There was some seepage of oil, not enough to form drops, from the very front of the engine... looked like a black cover just behind all the pulleys and the serpentine belt. Much crud accumulated at the underside of the seal and on the lower radiator hose... looked like a thermostat housing, but shouldn't that be near the top? Anyway, didn't look like a big deal, but I was wondering if that was a frequent problem on the 2.2l

    (ii) This one was odd. I revved the engine in neutral, and beyond maybe 2000 rpm, heard the typical whiny Subaru valvetrain noises, but underlying all that a deep growl that sounded mechanical, and a touch too loud for my taste. Then I drove the car and after a couple blocks pulled over again and raised the hood to listen some more.
    There was a definite vibration that seemed to come at 1/2 crankshaft speed. Reminded me of another Subie I drove over a year ago (95 legacy) taht was running on 3 cylinders, but that one didn't do the growling thing. It sounded metallic and pretty deep. Also, the shifter vibrated with it fairly hard.
    It is quite possible that it is "normal" for the car -- I don't have enough experience with these engines. If my 1.8l 4cyl in the Vibe made that kind of noise, I'd KNOW I got a problem, though. The engine pulled reasonably strong, but the vibration made it feel rough.

    FWIW, the check-engine light lit up when I turned the ignition on and went off when the engine started. Under OBD-II, it has to have complex misfire detection. So that would argue everything OK, but man....

    Any ideas?
  • kmcleankmclean Posts: 173
    This is one for those of you with true technical expertise in things automotive. Although it involved my '97 Maxima, next year it will be my 2K OB.

    I've had a variety of cars tested for emissions in a number of locations since the late 1970s, but today was a new one (I'm in Washington State). There has always been a tailpipe "sniffer" as the main test component, but today the fellow had me hop out of the car, at which point he hooked up his diagnostic analyzer to my OBDII port. His and my computer conversed for a few seconds, and he pronounced the test over. I did pass, which I expected, but I was both surprised and a bit concerned about this procedure (testing provide by Agbar, a contractor to the WA DOL).

    All the "results" were systems tests of my OBDII system (MIL, O2 sensors, misfire detector, etc.), and no actual chemical measurements, such as HC, CO, O2 and NOx that I've been accustomed to.

    Now, not being a total troglodyte, I realize that if OBDII says that everything is cool emission-wise, it probably is. But if the bottom line is what is actually going into the air, this indirect methodology bothered me. Not only is it qualitative (yes/no) rather than quantitative, but the precision of the relationship between OBDII functionality and a [legally] non-polluting engine is unclear.

    Comments? Similar experiences?

    In any event...Happy New Year to all!

    Ken in Seattle
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 39,015
    That's how they do it in Boise, at least for cars that have the OBDII connection. My Quest threw a code for running rich last year, but it had cleared itself and I passed the test ok. I never noticed a CEL light but the code hung around in memory somewhere until the guy read the OBDII.

    Steve, Host
  • sebberrysebberry Posts: 148
    How do you find the Outback's stock tires to be in the snow?

    I know snow performance is low on the "All season" chart, but a recent trp to the ski slopes left me disappointed.

    I found that when the car wags its back end, it was surprisingly hard to bring under control, and in some instances took at least 5 or more subtle yet definate corrections to set it straight.

    Now, the car does have 28,000 kms on it, so I don't know how this much wear affects the snow handling.

    It almost left me wanting, oooo, let's say an '05 H6 with VDC... :) (The nav system would be nice, I did almost get lost)

  • jlemolejlemole Posts: 345
    New Jersey just went to the OBDII test this year, for all cars 1996 and later. Older cars still get the tailpipe sniffer and the dyno. I think the tradeoff is ease of testing vs. the small chance that the on-board computer is not functioning properly. In New Jersey, though, if the CEL is on, they won't even hook you car up until you have it repaired at an "emissions certified" mechanic.

    Seberry: I've found the OEM Bridgestones to be poor in snow -- enough so to negate the value of having AWD in the first place. I've toyed with the idea of getting a second set of rims and snows, or switching to something like Nokians year round. RIght now I'm leaning towards riding out the Bridgestones (I'm at 38k miles now) and getting the Nokians to replace them.

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    The water pump/thermostat is on the bottom on newer post 80s subies, so that is in fact where it is. The seeping is fairly common on the 2.2 and 2.5L motors.

    Was the car fully warmed up when you tested it? My dad's '97 2.2L makes a racket til it's warm, as does my '97 2.2L as well.

  • steine13steine13 Posts: 2,411
    Thx for the response. Yes, it was fully warmed; certainly by the end of the test drive. The noise was reminiscent -- in pitch, anyway -- of car running on 3 cylinders. But the OBD-II would have caught that, I think. I could just be hyper-sensitive, but in the last 18 months I've driven an '03 Outback 5sp, a '95 Legacy 5sp with one dead cylinder, a '95 Legacy auto running well (200k miles) and now this one. The noise is there, it's loud at elevated rpm, and it sends strong vibrations through the stick. I'm completely stumped. And no, it ain't valve clatter from partially deflated lifters. THAT noise I know; had VWs in the past.
  • Once they have a few K miles on them, the OEM Bridgestones are horrid in snow/ice. My daily commute takes me between Westchester & Dutchess counties on the hilly Taconic here in NY. The trip is against traffic, and with ice a common addition to the snow both on the road and in my driveway, I opted for factory studded Nokian Hakk2's last winter. They were installed during a freezing snow/rainstorm, so I immediately felt the difference on the drive home -- my face hurt from all the smiling! Studded or not, snow tires are a perfect addition to Subaru AWD. If you're debating the tire cost, think of it as a better way to spend your insurance deductable!

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Short of hearing the exact noise It's gonna be hard to figure this one out :(

  • robr2robr2 BostonPosts: 7,609
    That's how MA does it as well now. OBDII created a standard connection for the diagnostic port is my understanding as well as storing all sorts of emissions related information.
  • steine13steine13 Posts: 2,411
    I really hate to let this one slip by; well-kept 5speeds for a reasonable price are hard to find.

    How about this: I know the 60k (incl. t-belt) was done at a corner-garage-type repair shop, not the dealership. They either overtightened the timing belt OR didn't replace the water pump and tensioner. Therefore, now one of those two components has developed a knock (most likely the water pump) and that is what I'm hearing. I like it because it fits the facts: Goes with camshaft speed, doesn't rob power, computer won't pick it up -- and the owner didn't notice it because it came on gradually.

    What's nice about it, it's basically a redo fo the t-belt for, what, $350? Unless I do it myself...

    Whaddaya think? You like? You buy?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Mine is awsome for racin.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Mathias: first problem is a leaky O-ring, i.e. the front main seal. It's not as common on the 2.2l but it happens. It should be replace with the timing belt, at 79k miles I expect they either skipped this service or re-used the old seal, a no-no.

    You really want to know if it's worth buying? Do a compression test, look for no more than 10% variation. If you have a leak it's prolly the head gaskets, in that case run, don't walk. It may have had a history of overheating.

    OBD2 will sniff out (pardon the pun) any gross polluters, so yeah, it should be effective just to read that data.

  • In Illinois, we have switched to the OBDII connection for the emissions test. This test is only as good the the vehicles OBDII computer and it's sensors. All it takes is one bad sensor to invalidate the test.
    The reason the states are going to this method of testing is because it saves them big bucks and it proves they don't really care about emissions.
    From the vehicle owner pespective, it saves then time and money. The O2 sensor is upstream of the catalytic converter, so you can remove the cat converter and the OBDII system won't know the differece. Replace the conveerter with a similar shaped can and even a visual inspection won't reveal the corrupted emission control system.

  • robr2robr2 BostonPosts: 7,609
    But I believe that OBDII can detect missing or defective sensors.
  • steine13steine13 Posts: 2,411
    or malfunctioning WILL be picked up by the system.

    There are at least 2 O2 sensors on these cars, one before and one after the catalyst. The second one monitors the catalyst's function.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    IIRC some Subies have 3 sensors.

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