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Chevy Tahoe Battery Problems

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  • I hate to hear about your problem. Believe me I can understand your frustration. I had an 07 that was like flipping a coin if it was going to be dead or not. I complained to GM of course they never heard of the problem, I gave them this web site. I've got a 2000 GMC with 215,000 miles that is more dependable. I have to admit we have a 2011 Tahoe now which only has 10,000 miles, but so far it's been great. However, if we start having problems with the batt. it will be my last GM vehicle. I think this problem is going to really cost GM some customers, but I guess they can just get another bail out.
  • mdumelowmdumelow Posts: 4
    edited January 2012
    2007 Tahoe LT-3 w/ 59000 miles -- Truck ran fine for two weeks after purchase. 5 days ago, slow start... 4 days ago, NO start. ACTED like a Dead Battery, BUT lights, radio, etc. still working!! Have had same problem and had to jump start Tahoe every morning and everyafternoon when leaving work. No aftermarket ANYTHING installed - just factory Rear Entertainment System (no NAV either). Don't even have a phone charger plugged in!!

    Took to parts store for load testing --Battery:OK, ALT:OK, -- took to trusted mechanic for diagnosis....

    Mechanic tells me: When you start the truck, all "modules" come to life. When you shut truck down, all "modules" have a rest period before going into hybernation. Mechanic says that one (or more) of my modules is NOT hybernating, and since they require a 12 volt power source this is my battery drain. OBD-II diagnostics revealed a GMLAN code -- something about HIGH SPEED BUS CIRCUIT??

    I have read multiple posts concerning this issue we are all having. Here is a compilation of fixes that other consumers have managed to squeeze out of dealers:

    1) Service Update #07007B where the BCM (Body Control Module) needs to be replaced;

    2) Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) 06162 which is a software update to the Body Control Module (BCM);

    3) HIGH SPEED BUS BAR overheats which simulates a dead battery (this info came from a bulletin dated April 2009, but I dont remember were i found it posted)

    4) Someone posted that Service Update #07007 is actually a RECALL pertaining to certain VIN#'s. I attempted to verify, but site that was linked to this information is no longer up (go Figure, right??)

    HERE IS THE MOST RECENT BULLETIN I HAVE FOUND......

    5) Bulletin #09-08-50-017B - Dated Feb 11, 2010
    Its the rear seat heater. It does NOT to be replaced, just reprogrammed using an SPS System w/ latest software update. Applies to Escalade, Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL manufactured prior to November 30, 2009. ALL affected vehicles equipped with Rear Heated Seat RPO KA6.

    GM has to know what the issue is here... I just want to fix the problem, NOT sell the truck. If anyone has additional info, or has been able to resolve the issue -- PLEASE post a response !!!!!!! Feel free to email me and I will forward the long version of everything I have.

    Mike D
    South Alabama
  • 2007 Tahoe LT-3 w/ 59000 miles -- Truck ran fine for two weeks after purchase. 5 days ago, slow start... 4 days ago, NO start. ACTED like a Dead Battery, BUT lights, radio, etc. still working!! When jumped off, all a/c controls (pass & aux) come on and sometimes Park Assist is turned off or get a TPMS Service notification. Have had same recurring issue and had to jump start Tahoe every morning and everyafternoon when leaving work. No aftermarket ANYTHING installed - just factory Rear Entertainment System (no NAV either). Don't even have a phone charger plugged in!!

    Took to parts store for load testing --Battery:OK, ALT:OK, -- took to trusted mechanic for diagnosis....

    Mechanic tells me: When you start the truck, all "modules" come to life. When you shut truck down, all "modules" have a rest period before going into hybernation. Mechanic says that one (or more) of my modules is NOT hybernating, and since they require a 12 volt power source this is my battery drain. OBD-II diagnostics revealed a GMLAN code -- something about HIGH SPEED BUS CIRCUIT??

    I have read multiple posts concerning this issue we are all having. Here is a compilation of fixes that other consumers have managed to squeeze out of dealers:

    1) Service Update #07007B where the BCM (Body Control Module) needs to be replaced;

    2) Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) 06162 which is a software update to the Body Control Module (BCM);

    3) HIGH SPEED BUS BAR overheats which simulates a dead battery (this info came from a bulletin dated April 2009, but I dont remember were i found it posted)

    4) Someone posted that Service Update #07007 is actually a RECALL pertaining to certain VIN#'s. I attempted to verify, but site that was linked to this information is no longer up (go Figure, right??)

    HERE IS THE MOST RECENT BULLETIN I HAVE FOUND......

    5) Bulletin #09-08-50-017B - Dated Feb 11, 2010
    Its the rear seat heater. It does NOT to be replaced, just reprogrammed using an SPS System w/ latest software update. Applies to Escalade, Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL manufactured prior to November 30, 2009. ALL affected vehicles equipped with Rear Heated Seat RPO KA6.

    GM has to know what the issue is here... I just want to fix the problem, NOT sell the truck. If anyone has additional info, or has been able to resolve the issue -- PLEASE post a response !!!!!!! Feel free to email me and I will forward the long version of everything I have.

    Mike D
    South Alabama
  • I have a 07 tahoe ,every time i have the tires rotated at Firestone they have the hood open for a courtesy inspection. every time by the end of the service the battery is dead . the dealership has replaced the battery 3 times.i contacted the manufacture they paid for the repairs and also fixed 4 other recalls.In the process they broke the drivers side folding mirror.that was funny to me because it worked fine when i dropped it off. before they removed the door panels to fix the door handles that cut your hand every time you opened the doors. Chevrolet knows about this problem with the charging system. they are a bunch of LIARS . This is what you get for buying American. This was my first Chevrolet and my last.I have let all of my family , friends and coworkers who are looking at a new car purchase know how good of a car manufacturer Chevrolet is .I am happy to say that NONE of them have purchased a Chevrolet. In retrospect it would have been a good thing if they went out of business,then they wouldn't have flooded the market with their substandard cars , trucks and suvs
  • Our 05' tahoe kept dying, something was draining the battery overnight. Once you jumped it off in the morning it would be fine the rest of the day, as long as you drove it every so often. We took it to a great mechanic and it turned out there was a device in the drivers door that was keeping the mirror heater from shutting off. Quick fix it, he found it that day, cost about $560, and the car has no more issues. We were given a lot of opinions for altenators to fuel pumps before taking it to this mechanic. The key is finding the right person.
  • itsjlitsjl Posts: 1
    I've read a lot about Chevy Tahoe battery issues on these threads, so at least I'm not alone. Many of the posters mention they have a 2007 model. I am having very similar issues, but mine is a 2010. I purchased the car about a year and a half ago. About a year into owning it, I was packing up the truck for a quick family vacation. When we were all packed and ready, it wouldn't start. I had left the hatch and doors open, but didn't think that would drain the battery in the 30 mins it took me to pack, but it was dead. I was able to get a jump and then it was fine for a few months. Now in the last 3 months, it has died 5 times. In each case, I had been driving it normally for a while, then one morning or evening, it just won't start. Lights and other things come on, but it won't turn over. Each time a jump gets it going. I've read about all the similar issues in these threads, but does anyone know if models later than 2007 generally have the same issues? I am about to go back to the dealer, but not looking forward to taking the half days off from I work I expect to have to take to deal with that whole process.
  • We bought our 2004 Chevy suburban is 2009 and it ran fine for about 1.5 years. In December 2010 the batteries started to die. We replaced the battery and thought maybe that was the problem. Three week later the battery dies, so we replace it again..Took it to the auto shop in March 2011 and they stated it's just a bad battery and I asked what about the alternator??..They acted like i was stupid (my husband and dad are both mechanics)..So I replaced the battery again for the fourth time..AGAIN it dies..After going through 10 batteries (all having dead cells from multiple jump starts) I decided to change the alternator and replace the battery..The SUV worked fine for about a week (luckily my husband came home from deployment) and it killed out again..(which turned out to be a faulty alternator, which my husband replaced)..My SUV has killed a total of 13 batteries in almost a year time..The alternator works fine, but since November, 2011 our radio likes to work when it wants to but when it does it's very static..My husband says it has to be a electrical problem, I was wondering if anyone has had this issue or about how much it would be to fix?
  • Same problem with a 2004 Silverado 2500 HD 6.0 liter. Getting ready to install third battery since first of this year. If you solve this problem, let me know. I'll do the same for you if I can figure it out.
  • sarcasarca Posts: 9
    edited March 2012
    I have had problems with my Tahoe battery since I bought it. The first time I noticed it was when my daughter was listening to the radio in the vehicle with the vehicle off. When I came back suv was dead, so we had to call AAA. Then we went to a drive-in movie, and when the movie was done our vehicle wouldnt start so we called AAA. After this happening about 3-4 times I finally brought the vehicle to Chevy. They said the battery was bad and replaced it under warranty. We went to Tahoe 3 weeks later and had just parked our vehicle to grab something from our hotel, when we came back to start the car it was completely dead, that was less then 10 minutes and nothing was left on. AAA towed the vehicle to A/C Delco (who happened to be nearest place around) Delco did load test and said that the cells in the battery were completely dead, and that the way it looked was like there was some sort of electrical charge that just killed it, (they replaced the battery for free since I had just got it), they told me that this battery was one that they used to use in some of the Mercedes vehicles a long time ago but Mercedes discontinued using them, and that he thought it was weird that Chevy was using this battery. He said I should take it back to Chevy and have them test the charging system/electrical system because there's difinetly something not right. So I took it back to Chevy and they said they that they had just checked the vehicle and there was nothing wrong with it, and sometimes there are batteries that are duds. We sat in our car and were eating one day with the vehicle off, keys out, radio off, only doors open. When we were done we locked the vehicle up and left it for a couple hours. When we came back the battery was dead and we called AAA again. We love going to drive-in movies and were afraid to because of the radio/battery situation. We decided to go and just start the car every 15-20 minutes. So we did that every 20 minutes but 3/4 of the way through the movie the vehicle wouldnt turn on and we called AAA again. This time the engine light stayed on after the charge, I hit the On Star button and they came on and ran a diagnostic and said they dont see anything wrong and it's ok to drive, but if the light doesnt go off by the next morning to take it to a dealer. Everytime we go camping the vehicle needs to be jumped the next morning. Again there's nothing left on, we do go in and out a few times to grab things, with the last time being after we put all the food in the back of the vehicle for the night. My husband usually starts the veh. and lets it run for a few minutes before turning in for bed. No matter, it still doesnt start in the morning. My husband feels that it has to do with the cold, but I don't know, thinking back to the time it died in Lake Tahoe (it had snowed) it could be. That would only explain the dying when we're camping issue though. Other than when we camp I've never had problems starting the suv in the morning. There's been times when one of my kids left the light in the veh on overnight, and a few times during the days. I didnt have any problem starting the vehicle those times. The battery died numerous more times and there's been nothing that's been left on, the only thing that I could think of is that the door had been open for a bit so that we could get some air. Unfortunatly, at those times we had left the veh to do some things and found it dead upon returning. So don't know if it would have started right away or if there's something draining the battery while we were out. There's been many times though that we've had doors open to get air and the vehicle starts fine. The battery has died 2 times in the last four days. The first of those times we were sitting in the vehicle having lunch and it got hot so we opened the driver door and passenger front door. Now the one thing that happened this time was that the drivers seat went back and forth by itself, we thought that was odd but gave it no more thought at the time. When we were done eating we turned the key in the ignition to close the windows, then we closed the vehicle up and left it. 2 1/2 hours later we came back and vehicle was dead, we needed to get the vehicle jumped. Then on Tuesday I had dropped something on the driver floor and went to pick it up and for some reason just looked up under the steering wheel and saw all the wires there. I am a curious person by nature so right away had to check it out. It looked like a real mess, all the wire bundles were taped together but some of them had beige tape on them, like the one you buy for your home sometimes. I needed to get a better look, so I put the the chair all the way back and lowered the brake pedals. Of course the door was open cuz I needed to hang my legs out. I went back under, and I have to say it looked like a kid did that work. There were wires connected to 2 boxes (does that sound right?) then going to the steering wheel, etc. Anyway there were a couple wires (they were in with a bundle of others that plugged into a small outlet hanging toward the driver floor by the radio side)that didnt go anywhere, is that normal? My thoughts were that maybe there was a loose wire and thats the battery problem. Also I'm wondering if when I brought it in for the first couple times for the battery if they did something it that area, without saying anything because it looks jacked up to me under there. Ok so I'm not a mechanic and so I figured I'd try to look online for pics to see how it should look. (So far havent found any yet) But first off I put the seat back and then had to turn the vehicle on to put the brake pedal back. Then there was a loud buzzing sound coming from the back driver side wheel well area by the gas tank. It sounded kinda like the sound that a small jackhammer would make, it only lasted a couple seconds and was done. I went in the house and didnt leave for about two hours. When I came back out and tried to start the vehicle it was dead. So was there a loose wire that I tapped when I was looking under there? I wonder if that noise I heard had something to do with this. I had heard this noise once before when I brought the vehicle in the first time for some warranty work, including looking at the battery. I was in the service drive standing next to the vehicle while she was writing it up when it happened. I asked her what that was and she said she didn't know but would check it out with the other things. Nothing ever came of that.

    It's important to note that I have no aftermarket products installed on this vehicle. Also, when I go out to my vehicle, the doors do unlock for me. Then when I go to turn the vehicle on it just clicks. At that point nothing works, doors won't lock/unlock, power lift gate wont open etc.

    I will mention that there are a couple of other strange things that have happened that i will have to do part two to this post. coming up
  • sarcasarca Posts: 9
    continued from previous message
    I will mention that there are a couple of other strange things that have happened since I've had this vehicle the battery wasnt affected. First off when I first got the vehicle my remote stopped unlocking the doors from outside the car, but strange enough when you were inside the vehicle you could lock and unlock the doors. I forget how they fixed that at this time, but it wasnt a remote problem I do remember that. Then the tire sensors kept coming on, and the dealer replaced them. Then (stranger yet), there were a few times that I started the vehicle and while backing up the back-up camera wouldnt kick in. There were a couple other times that the entire radio entertainment system (I have Nav as well as DVD player/CD player/backup camera. factory installed) didnt work from the time I got in my car until I parked. Then upon getting back in my car it was fine. The last strange thing, is a door lock and unlock issue. My husband left me in the vehicle for a quick minute and locked the vehicle from the outside. When he came back his hands were full and he wanted me to unlock the doors. I pressed the unlock button on the passenger door side and the doors wouldn't unlock, so I leaned across the console and pressed unlock from the drivers side, again nothing. My husband couldn't unlock the door with the remote either so ended up manually unlocking it with the key. This also happened on a couple other occasions as well. Hopefully this strike a chord with someone.

    So back to the main problem, I went to dealer today about the battery problem and he said that there's an update to the system that was should fix any battery problems. This was on a bulletin from 10/16/09 #PIT4782D. One of the causes it fixes is: humm or buzz noise from rear of vehicle and/or poss dead battery. This is PI #06-06-03-011B. I said what if thats not the problem though? He said that the fix is for all 16 problems on the page. I didn't see a fix though, it just talks about recording the static voltage of the battery by using a DVOM at the battery post before charging or diagnosing. Then perform parasitic load test as listed in SI. Explains what to do when using a fluke 87-5 meter. And tests how to test the meter first to make sure its working. Then says to perform and record the results for all PI's and belletins that apply to the vehicle in template following list before calling the Technical Assistance Center. Then tells what to do if the vehicle is equipped with Articulating Running Boards. Then at the end says "Vehicles that don't have the delay have older software that may cause the module not to fully go to sleep and may result in battery draw. I dont see any fix described just diagnostics, but the advisor said that this fix would fix everything on that list. I'm not sure if the actual fix is in a separate bulliton for their eyes only? Anyway he wants me to pay $150.00 and MAYBE this will fix it. He says that to be completely sure they'd have to do a complete diagnostic that I'd have to pay for of course. I need to talk to GM regarding having to pay for any of this. I brought me vehicle in when it was under warranty so as far as i'm concerned they need to take care of it since the fix they performed wasn't the answer. I'm hoping that GM will handle the matter in a professional way and provide customer service that is acceptable. I work at a dealership myself and know how things should work, so we'll see if they live up to the way it should go. I should also mention that I had my work do a Parasidic draw test last year, and I was told that there was a high draw coming out of front outlets, so just don't leave things plugged in there. I never leave anything charging in the outlets when the vehicles off, so that shouldn't be why my vehicle dies. Other than that they said nothing else came up. I'm not real familiar with how this is done, but I'm not sure if they hit on everything that could possible create a draw, or just the obvious areas. They did it for free since I work there.

    Well I'll see what happens, if anyone has any ideas from what I've written please let me know.
  • toobusy5toobusy5 Posts: 1
    I can't say for sure if your vehicle problems are the same as we have but our 2004 Suburban has had the cluster panel replaced several times. You might check to see if it's the same issue. What I can say is that it causes the battery to completely drain... in one year a brand new battery had no life left in it and isn't rechargeable. The cluster panel has eventually caused the entire dash panel lights to go out, preventing the driver to have no gauge on speed, etc. Last year, I lost all power to the steering and brakes and nearly caused an accident. The cluster panel has been replaced 3x in the last 6 years and GM won't help cover the expenses since it's out of warranty.
  • sarcasarca Posts: 9
    What did the final fix end up being?
  • sarcasarca Posts: 9
    Did you replace any of these things? Are you still having problems? I posted on the main thread message 226 & 227, if you have a chance to read those I would like to hear if any of that sounds familiar. Today I was checking the fuses and had the driver door open, I could hear electronic sounds coming from the radio area then when that stopped I heard a quiet spinning coming from the radio area that went on for a while. Then when I was finished checking things out, of course my vehicle wouldn't start. When I tried to start it the first thing console message said was:service stability control, service traction control. just clicked, nothing else. But then after a few minutes I heard radio spinning so Service Request: I "let me try starting it again", nothing just a click, but door locks went up and down a few times, windshield wipers came on, the lights came on as well as dash lighting and A/C controls and A/c readout lit up but radio didn't work and screen was black. Radio area was making noises again. And of course just clicked no turnover. So I waited a bit again, then I tried it again (just to see what other weird things might happen) this time locks only went up once, all overhead lights went on again as well as the same console lights. Then I jumped it for the 3 rd time this week and once that was done "service charging system" was added to the other service prompts on dash. Any of this ring a bell?
  • sarcasarca Posts: 9
    what did the dealership find?
  • sarcasarca Posts: 9
    edited March 2012
    can you forward me the long version? sjam4life@aol.com
  • Nothing. The dealership lunkheads could not figure it out. I took the Suburban to a local auto repair shop and they pulled the battery and tested it thoroughly. As it turned out, the actual battery was defective, it wouldn't hold a charge for very long. I had recently bought this battery from the local Pep Boys dealer and the brand name was Bosch. I replaced the defective Bosch with an AC-Delco. Never had the problem again. Will never buy Bosch brand again and I question the integrity of Pep Boys products.
  • Try replacing old battery out with different brand name. You could simply have a defective battery. I had a battery (Bosch brand) which I purchased from Pep Boys that after about 8 months, started going dead overnight. As it turned out, it was a defective battery. I switched to ACDelco, problem went away.
  • Sometimes a weak battery can still make the radio and lights work, but they would be a lot dimmer. It sounds like your alternator is not re-charging your battery. So ..... could be bad alternator, or your cable lug terminals at the battery might be loose or dirty thus causing inadequate voltage charging.
  • sarcasarca Posts: 9
    My Tahoe died again yesterday, so I had AAA jump it and I drove it to dealership. They did all kinds of tests and pulled codes, and this is what they ended up doing: reflashed the BCM TSB# 09-06-03-013D, and reflashed the rear seat heat module TSB# 09-08-50-017B, they referred to PIT4816D, and PIT4782D. I also let them do recall for windshield washer heater, and I upgraded battery to one with more power. Afterwards I turned vehicle off and sat in Tahoe with radio running for 20 minutes and it started right up. That's a good sign, so we'll see. Now gotta do oil consumption test as that's the next problem....:(
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