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GMC Yukon, Yukon Denali, XL Electrical Problems

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  • My 96 GMC Suburban (Vortex 5.7L) recently began shutting down on me in traffic. Driving along fine, say 40mph and suddenly the engine will die and the radio stop playing... after a few seconds, it starts running again. Or, it will stall completely, but will restart right away.

    Thinking it odd that the radio shut down when the engine did, I popped the radio out. Several trips today in the rig and it hasn't repeated the problem.

    How can the radio cause the truck to act like that?
  • Good morning canron,

    Sorry to hear that about the troubles you're having with your instrument pane. If you would like for us to check into this further by setting up a Service Request (or looking into warranty/recall information), please send an email to socialmedia@gm.com with the following information: your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 digits of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your involved dealership.

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • Over the past few months, I have been having slight electrical issues with my 2007 Yukon. The driver's side mirror quit working all of the time, the driver's seat sometimes will not move. Recently the lights started flickering (no bad bulbs). Yesterday, the battery voltage meter dipped low so I took it to have the battery and alternator tested. The battery and alternator passed the tests, the mechanic suggested I take to dealer to have electrical system tested. Today the stabilitrack warning came on and received messages to service the stabilitrack and traction control. Wanted to know if anyone else has had similar issues and/or recommendations beyond simply taking to dealership to troubleshoot which I know will be expensive.
  • rajichrajich Posts: 3
    edited January 2013
    I have a 2007 GMC Denali with the same symptoms. The power suddenly dies. This is a reoccurring issue for the past 3 years. I noticed the negative battery cable had bad contact so I took a steel brush and scuffed up the cable where it meets the ground connection. That seemed to fix the issues for 6 months, but it came back again. This time AAA came out and said it a common problem with the positive (not negative this time) cable so they propped a stick where the cables connects to the battery and that temporarily fixed the issue, but once again i loss complete power. I'm at the dealership now, but since the car is making contact now I'm curious what they will say. I was able to start it up by removing the positive cable and wiggled it around and reattached it to the battery. This sounds likes a no brainer that the cables have a bad contact somewhere, but I've tried removing and wiggling the cables around in the past and still was not able to get power back. I'll let you know what the dealer says. I also hear this strange ticking sound in the cab when I have power sometimes not sure if its related, but it's a strange clicking noise.

    Update from the dealer. They said they have seen my reported issue dozens of times and crosion in the negative cable was the culprit. I will take the gamble and have them replace it and let you know if the issue returns. Per the dealer the clicking noise in the cab is a result of low voltage and related.
  • My 08 Denali has electrical gremlins. Randomly, the entire electrical system will shut down while the vehicle is parked. First indication of a problem is the remote key fob will not unlock the doors. No dome lights, no dash lights, no clicking of the starter solenoid...nothing. Then, when it feels like it...it repairs itself. It seems to help to remove the battery cable and then reattach it. That does not immediately bring it back to life however, but usually just before the tow truck arrives. I have a new battery which never tests dead or low, clean terminals, and good connections to ground. Any ideas? Also, but unrelated (I believe), both front electric door locks quit working. My son drives a 2009 Escalade and says both of his left side units have failed as well. In reading blogs and forums, there seems to be an epidemic of door lock actuator failures on this family of product. I went to the Chevy dealer and he told me to not believe the gripping on the internet. I am a died-in-the-wool Made-in-the-USA fan but am wondering if I am not stupid to be so.
  • rajichrajich Posts: 3
    Yup exact same issue that I've been having with my GMC. This obviously some sort of electrical flaw and GM must retain some stats from their local dealership of the quantity of people having this exact same issue. My local GM dealership mechanic stated he's seen the issue on at least a dozen vehicles himself and most of the time changing the negative battery cable fixes it. The problem is they could not guarantee this would fix the problem and went as far as stating it's gamble I have should consider taking. In other words their confidence level that this would fix the problem fell really quickly. If I had the time I would suggest changing the cable yourself and save the $260 the dealership charged me. I will post back if the negative battery cable fixed my problem. I wonder if anyone experienced the same and still have the issue despite changing their negative cable. :confuse: :mad:
  • I've had my 2003 Denali for 4.5 years now and I've changed the alternator twice and battery three times. Advanced Auto says that these alternators are failing too often - even the new ones. My ghost non-starting problem hasn't shown for about a year, but I've never changed the battery cables or even cleaned them to get the car started. I simply had to wait anywhere from between one day to a week. I've even tried jumping the starter solenoid on the starter with a heavy wire, but it wouldn't do anything. I personally believe that the computer has a ghost problem in it. BTW, I am a professional mechanical engineer and a classic automobile restorer.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,003
    How did everything shape out with the dealership on Saturday, rajich?
    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,003
    americanmade,

    if you would like for us to follow up on your visit with your dealership, or look into the situation with your son's Escalade, please contact us at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and a summary of the situation so far).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • rajichrajich Posts: 3
    Hi Sarah,

    The dealership was not able to replicate the issue. However, they recommended changing the negative battery cable which I did. The dealership said they were familiar with this issue and the suggested repair usually fixes it, but not all the time. Since my Denali loses complete power every 3-5 months or so I'll have to report back. I will keep my finger crossed they fixed the issue. However, the larger question is why is this happening to so many GMC owners? Its smells like a manufacturer defect to me.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,003
    rajich,
    Hopefully the battery cable replacement will take care of you for longer than 3-5 months! We'll keep an eye out for a post.

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • On a long road trip, at night, with heaters going due to being around 0 degrees F, the lighted buttons on the steering wheel and the dash became very warm to the touch, and then the sound from the stereo just stopped working. :cry: We have 4 kids, and chaos ensued because there was no music and we had 2 hours left to drive.

    I turned on cool air running through the defrost, thinking that it must have just overheated (possibly a blocked vent), but even a couple days later sitting at below-freezing temperatures have not helped.

    The stereo turns on, the disc changer still works, the displays work just fine, but I still get no sound through the speakers.

    Is this a fuse issue, or something more serious?
  • fvoglfvogl Posts: 1
    2 days ago I purchased a 2008 yukon denali with 55k miles on it. When I drove it off the lot everything seemed to of been fine. However lastnight my check engine light came on. They way it drove didnt seem to change, my first thought was to call the dealership where I purchased it and make note of it that it was on record that I'd had it for only 24hrs before the first issue occured, I was told they'll check with the service dept on Monday and get back with me to see if they can get it in to get looked over. From lastnight to this morning when I left for work, I couldnt get the remote start to start the vehicle. Had to go out and manually start it, thought oh well no big deal. As I leave my driveway I notice all of my gauges on the dash are acting weird. RPM gauge stuck at 1000rpm's, speedometer not working at all, temp gauge not working, the only two gauges that seemed to of been working were the oil pressure gauges and the voltage meter. So as I get to work, I decided to shut it off wait a minute and start it back up drove it around the parking lot and lone behold if all the gauges didnt start working again and the check engine light went off. WTH??? This vehicle has already shown me its got a mind of its own. Any suggestions or advise would be great. I sure hope when i get this back into the dealership they dont think I'm going to put this under warranty work and pay a deductable, when this all started 24hrs after signing papers on the vehicle.. I need to check into the lemon laws for my state cause I wont be getting screwed on this..
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,003
    fvogl,
    If the dealership you're working with is one of our GM dealerships, we're available to work with you through the process of getting this checked into. Please don't hesitate to contact us via email at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and a brief summary of the situation so far).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • tammie35tammie35 Posts: 1
    can you let me know if the problem was resolved. my denali is doing the same thing. none of my gauges are working. this past summer i noticed the gauges would totally quit every now and then. now they do not work at all
    :sick:
    thanks
    tammie
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,003
    Let us know if you decide to work with a dealership to get this checked into, Tammie. We can be reached at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and a summary of the situation).
    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • mrjohnbmrjohnb Posts: 9
    2000 GMC Yukon XL 4x4 / 5.3

    Hello,
    I am trying to replace my front right door lock actuator. I have bought 2 online with the exact same part number as the one I pulled from the door

    valeo
    16637778

    the one installed in my vehice has 3 wired connections(plugs) the ones that I keep getting shipped to me are 2 wired connections ( crazy they have the same part number!!!!!)

    So any advice where I can get a 3 wired connector door actuator other than the dealer who wants a ludicris amount.

    anyone have the 3 wires part number and where I can get it.
    and
    anyone know what the diference in the 2 and 3 connector versions is?

    any and all info is appreciated,

    thanks,
    John
  • I've had my 2003 GMC Yukon Denali for almost 4 months. I've noticed that sometimes my lights flicker. It's so quick and subtle you barely notice it so I haven't worried about it too much until last night. I took an 800 mile round trip to Portland Oregon this weekend. On the way back I had the cruise set and was about an hour from home when my blinker and cruise started acting up. As I would change lanes I would turn the blinker on. Immediately as I turn it on the cruise would cancel and the blinker wouldn't turn on. But if I let go of the blinker arm and turn it right back on it would work and I could reset the cruise. It didn't happen every time just several times.

    Then today I was driving the car in town,not using cruise, and when I would go to turn I'd turn the blinker on and as I hit the brake the blinker would just stay lit. I'd turn the blinker back off then right back on and it would work fine. Any ideas?? I'm worried its gonna get worse and leave me with no lights
  • jpd9668jpd9668 Posts: 4
    I have experienced electrical power outage problems on my 2008. Initially I detected a non-start when turning the ignition key. On second attempt, engine started and ran fine. A few starts later, when I turned the key, all lights, gauges, etc. went out and would not start. A repeat turning of the key did nothing...all gauges and instruments remained out. Initially, I thought the battery was low but jump starting did not work from my wife's VW Toureg. Thinking the VW did not have the "juice" to start the big block, I jumped from a friends pickup. It started and ran fine. Next day, same thing. I had the battery tested and it was okay. Took Denali to GM dealer. Mechanic told me there had been problems with battery cables and the relay/fuse box mounted on the firewall behind the battery. He recommended changing the positive cable. This solved the problem...for 3 months. Yesterday, the Yukon would not start and all panel lights were out. I put charge on battery for 6 hours. It took a full charge and panel lights remained out with no noise trying to start. Dealer now tells me the "other", negative cable needs replacing. What is the issue with GM battery cables in Yukon Denali's? Am I going to have an ongoing ?problem
  • jpd9668jpd9668 Posts: 4
    I purchased vehicle with 69K miles in September 2011, I had to replace my front pads and rotors in April 2012 at 78,425 miles. In November with 86K miles, I began getting a vibration in the steering wheel on braking. I took the Yukon to my GM Dealer, they said that the rotors were warped from overheating. I have never driven the car hard, although I pull a trailer regularly (maybe 400 of the 8,000 miles since replacement) I do not do hard stops (I'm pulling horses) and I downshift during braking for the very reason I don't want to overheat brakes (I used to race cars, I know about those things) so I am wary of the dealer's response (I'm sure it's what GM tells them to say) I 've been driving cars for 50 years and never had brake rotors fail like this. This dealer has always been square with me and I trust them. The parts manager, offered to sell me drilled and slotted rotors for the price of the standard ones and I agreed. They ordered them in and when I got around to taking the Yukon back in, they found that the rotors were a different size. They checked the parts numbers with Delco and ordered a different set which also were too small/smaller than the standard rotors. I have been told that the rotors are probably made in China (street talk, not from the dealer) and therefore inferior. Could this be so? Is everything including our safety being shopped out to the Chinese? What's going on with GM brake rotors?
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