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GMC Yukon, Yukon Denali, XL Electrical Problems

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  • Did you ever resolve this issue? I have the exact same problem. When my black 2007 Denali sits in sun, upon starting all the gauges are off or sometimes the traction controls fails, and then sometimes half the AC system blows warm while the passenger side blows cold. Go figure!
    Anyway, if you found anything I'd appreciate feedback. Thanks!
  • WOW! I have searched the net everywhere and then I run across this post,
    It is exactly what is going on right now with my 05 Denali.

    Hottest day of the year going down the hiway all of the sudden most guages go out, A/C out, radio out, dome lights out, and most of the dummy warning lights light up in the cluster, but the engine runs just fine.

    Items come on for a few seconds at a time but go back off.

    Parked vehicle overnight and battery was completely drained.
    Charged battery and have same issues but it is very intermitent.
    While just sitting in the garage turn key on everything normal, key off then on again and no asesories or guages, dome light affected as well as door locks.

    Man am i confused!

    Hoping you get this post and clue me in as to how you found the problem
    .
    Any help out there as to what to troubleshoot would sure be appreciated.
    Thanks
  • hjg3hjg3 Posts: 4
    In my last post on this board, I said I'd have an independent mechanic look at my '08 Yukon - they couldn't figure it out either but were willing to replace the battery cables as a place to start - a $250 job (GMC dealer wanted to replace my alternator - $750, then maybe my battery if that didn't fix it - another $200, as their place to start). I did it, and haven't had a single issue since. Oh, and the independent mechanic removed and tested my alternator on the same equipment the GMC dealer should have, and it was in perfect working order. I'm keeping my receipt while waiting for what I think must be the inevitable GMC recall on their battery cables.
  • elcee3elcee3 Posts: 1
    I bought my Denali new and over the years I've had a variety intermittent and temporary (1-6 mos) issues which, of course, did not happen when I took it in to the shop, so the dealership didn't fix any of them. I'll try to list them in order.
    Stereo shut off, usually restarting once or twice would help. Note: my stereo control area and buttons always get very very hot, dealership says this is normal.
    Using either turn signal, the emergency flashers would come on instead. Closing the back hatch, hard, usually resolved this for a trip or two.
    Interior lights did not come on when opening the doors or using the key fob for a few months.
    Heated seats turn on and off randomly, at different settings. Control buttons would work so I could turn them off.
    AC is very cold and will give a 5-15 second blast of heat at random intervals.
    Radio stays on after ignition has been turned off and the driver door is opened. Opening the back hatch will turn it off. This trick seems to be winding down since the radio, lately, will turn off after the the door has been open a minute or so. Note: Turning it off by the switch does not turn off all the lights on the panel. The interior lights work fine.
    I have been told that updating the software on the Body Control Manual should resolve these issues and that it maybe a good idea to update the Drive Train Control Module as well. Any thoughts or experience with this?
  • Thanks for the reply! I think the cables look like something I can handle myself so i'll start there.
    Did you replace both neg and pos cables or just Negative?
  • Not a problem with the first crank of the day but once my 03 Yukon warms up and/or we have to stop for gas or for any reason it take about four tries before it starts up again. This has increase from twice to four times over the last month and its getting worst. We blow over $500.00 on replacing the fuel pump on the recommendation from a GMC dealer how wanted over $1000 but we still have the same problem. Can anyone help me with this issue?
  • i replaced the negative battery cable last night and I thought it was fixed because everything worked for about 15 minutes of engine running and then all of a sudden, again no guages, A/c blows hot, no locks, no radio and dummy lights on dash are lit and no dome lights.
    Whats going on here? do i try BCM or positive battery cable? why was it fixed for 15 minutes?
    Very frusterated. any advice would be appreciated.
    Thanks
  • zyvxn1zyvxn1 Posts: 3
    edited October 2013
    elcee3 - Did you find out what the issue was?

    I'm finding the following issues happening now with my 05 Yukon as well:
    - Radio stays on even after you turn off the truck and open the door
    - Heater on driver side comes on and the control lights go on and of at variable settings. You can turn it off, but it comes back on.
    - clock is staying on after truck is off.

    These are all random and might happen once today, then not again for a few days, then a bunch at once. It's craziness!

    Anyone know what the issue likely is? Seems there are to comments I see in this thread -- battery cables and computer update.
  • S.O.S anyone found out why these vehicles are doing this? I have a 2000 Yukon XL, my battery dies overnight. charge and It starts up and runs lately it'll start up run I'll turn it off and then it won't start up again. now the car flickers radio stays on, it almost seems as if the remote start is the corporate , if I press the break pedal and take the keys out then everything seems to reset. Then I have to charge for a few hours ad I can drive. I Dont understanding what's wrong . help
  • Follow-up on my problem (listed in post 161) -

    I was told the heater control doing the light dance and coming on and off was a bad unit in the driver seat. I was told the part was $600+ and total bill is estimated over $800. I asked about simply disconnecting it, but that would kill the seat memory and the ability to adjust the seat. As such, I'm kind of stuck.

    The radio and things staying on is a separate problem. They can't reproduce the issue (crazy), so they aren't sure what it is. They said it could be any of several modules in the truck but is most likely a service module in the door that controls when things go off. They said the battery cables and everything were not the issue.

    If others have seen this issue, please post any info you might have as well.
  • I noticed last night while driving that my headlights would get brighter and the voltage meter would increase above 15 volts. The lights would dim and the volt meter would drop back to 14 volts. Also, the microphone located in the headliner has started to make a "feedback" noise. What could be causing this. I just replaced the battery twice. The first was an AC Delco from the dealer and the new one is an Interstate.
  • 5sus5sus Posts: 1
    I have read many posts on similar issues, here is mine. We purchased this 2010 Yukon used in March 2011 with about 18K miles. This summer the battery went dead while the back was open while loading the vehicle after a camping trip. I have since shut off the dome lights when loading/unloading to eliminate the issue. Twice this past month, it was dark so I left the engine running and had the lights on. The first time it worked and I was able to start the vehicle in the morning. This past weekend, it was dead and had to be jumped for a while to start the engine. There are no chargers plugged in to create a drain. There is no issue when I am not loading/unloading. I had the battery checked today and it is fine. However, the drain test (high beams, high heater fan, 2000 rpm) showed an issue. The voltage meter showed the volts from unloaded to loaded was fine. Can the battery cables be easily changed or does it require a professional?
  • Out of the blue, the driver seat in the Denali quit moving forward and backwards, but everything else is working. With all the other issues I have read on this forum with the heated seats, could this have caused the problem? I can't find anything that is disconnected or anything of that nature. The car is very clean and nothing is in the way. Only thing different is running the heated seats because it has been really cold...HELP??? :cry:
  • I thought I'd follow up on my previous posts --

    The issue of the radio staying on in my truck has been identified. You can actually pull the key out before it is turned all the way off. I was told to make sure I've turned it all the way before removing the key. There are some parts that can be replaced to eliminate this issue, but if I simply turn the key farther, it is supposed to be okay. ($300+ to fix versus turning key farther).

    On the electrical issues with seat warmer and its lights going on and off -- I had the unit in the seat replaced (yes, over $800). It's been a couple weeks and it looks like the problem is coming back, so that might have been a poorly spent $800.....
  • Hi, The best thing to check in my opinion is the big plug for the seat located under the seat and best to reach it from the back.
    it has a common problem with one or more wires getting hot and and losing connection. Most common is the big black wire that is likely ground for more than one thing. Unplug the harness and check each wire to make sure it is seated tightly in the plug. If you can get the seat to move all the way forward and up it makes it real easy to get to.
    This is where you should start. I know how frusterating these things can be.
    Hope this is helpful.
  • my truck cut off when i try to start then after a few minutes the power comes back on this has been going on for 2 weeks on and off now i can't lock or unlock using the keyless entry when i try the remote start it works and sometimes it doesn't CAN SOMEONE HELP
  • cogmcownercogmcowner Posts: 2
    edited January 3

    2011 Yukon Denali XL. Battery goes dead after door is open for a short period of time or a dome light is on for a short period of time. Had battery, alternator and starter tested - all fine.

    Was loyal Toyota guy but needed a bigger vehicle and no model from Toyota fits the bill. Starting to regret going with GMC ...

    Would a new battery with higher cold cranking amps help? Seems way too fast for a battery to get drained.

  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,626

    Can't imagine a mere door or dome light drawing that much amperage out of a battery. You should test the battery drain with everything off and shut down. It really shouldn't read more than 50-100 milliamps, although some techs say up to 400 milliamps is tolerable. If you don't have a large amp drain at "rest", then I would suspect your battery, yes. I don't think any battery that is more than factory spec is required unless you are running extra equipment.

  • pcolajewlpcolajewl Posts: 1
    edited January 25

    Hello....I am new to the forum. I own a 2004 Yukon Denali....well im paying on it. I am going through allot of electrical issues. All of the dash light are completely out. It would only flicker at first but has progressively gottn worse. The battery went from dying after a full day to now if I dont crank it every 4to6 hours I will be guaranteed to need a jump. I have had battery, starter and alternator all checked and all are good. I still bought a new battery praying that was the issue. After having the new battery a week all the issues came right back. I am a working mother of 4 kids from age 10-18 I work overnights which is rough enough but now add the fact that I havent sleept more than 4 hours at one time in over a month because of fear of my truck not starting when I awake. I dont have allot of money....I was in an accident which totalled my last car and i only have my gmc. I luv the truck but not its problems, trading it in is not an option because id be upside down and my credit bites. I have had all my fuses checked.....I cant afford going to an electrician and anytime I try taking my truck anywhere the car guys allways try to get over on me. I feel so defeated right now and im trying to not let my kids feel or see what im going through....I dont know what to do or where to go to get this fixed. If anyone has any advice, do tell. I reside in Pensacola Florida. :(

  • I have a 2003 Denali xl. The electrical system in this vehicle needs to be recalled from the factory. I have had problems since I hit 40,000 miles. I now have 98,000 miles and I have taken it to the dealer at least 6 times. I had, or so they said, I had to replace the computer to the tune of $1,000.
    My speedometer, radio, locks, mirrors work, then they don't work. When my speedometer does work, I'f I stop quick, or go into passing gear, the speedometer goes wacky and stops working. The radio will change stations, or turn off. Why is there not a RECALL ON THIS PROBLEM. THERE ARE THOUSANDS OF PEOPLE WHO HAVE SAME PROBLEM. EACH DEALER FEEDS ME [non-permissible content removed], TELLING ME THEY DON'T KNOW WHY IT DOES IT, OR TELLME THEY HAVE TO SEE IT DO IT WHILE THEY HAVE IT. [non-permissible content removed] GM.. YOU NEED TO STAND BEHIND WHAT YOU SELL. MY CAR HAS LESS THAN 100,000 MILES AND IT IS 11 YEARS OLD. I HAVE HAD MORE PROBLEMS WITH THIS, the most expensive vehicle I have ever purchased, THAN ALL OTHER VEHICLE'S COMBINED.
    GMC!!! WHAT ARE YOU GOING TO DO????
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