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Jeep Wrangler Transmission Troubles

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  • I have had similar issues with my 07 jk two door wrangler x. Gears 1-3, a squeak right after disengaging clutch. I have just over 4300 miles on it and it has been doing it for about 1000 miles. I have a two and a half inch suspension lift and 32" tires. Do you have a lift on yours? Have you taken it to the dealer or heard anything on what this could be?
  • khjeepkhjeep Posts: 4
    I have also been experiencing a whiling in all the gears. Can you tell me what the difference is between the transmission fluids GL-3 and GL-5? I have found out that in my latest transmission flush they used Havoline Dextron 4 (I believe that is what they called it). Your help is appreciated.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Which model, year, and transmission do you have?

    GL-3 and GL-5 specification oils are used in manual transmissions.
    ATF+4 spec transmission fluid is the only fluid to use in Wrangler automatic transmissions.

    Dexron fluid of any spec should never be used in a Wrangler transmission.
  • khjeepkhjeep Posts: 4
    Hi mac24,

    It's a 1992 Jeep Wrangler YJ with what I beleive is an AX15 transmission. 5 speed manual.

    The service center which just did the transmission flush ~3.5 months ago put in the Havoline Dexron IV fluid. What damage can happen with the Dexron fluid in the transmission?

    I just started hearing the whining about 2 weeks ago. This was also after I had put the Jeep into 4WD(high) due to some adverse road conditions (snow, slush, ice) The Jeep has been used primarily for highway miles (~2,000 per month) since October 16, 2006
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Unless you have a four cylinder engine than your transmission is the AX-15,
    You must use a 75-90 GL-3 or GL-4 gear oil, or a synthetic that meets the same standards (Redline MT90 springs to mind).

    An ATF (like Dexron) is required for the transfer case, but definitely not your AX-15.
    ATF doesn't have the same shear resistance as a gear oil, so it could be wear on the gears themselves, rather than the bearings, that you're hearing.

    When incorrectly using a GL-5, the greater sulphur content has an adverse effect on the brass synchro rings which causes baulking and noisy shifts.
  • Hello,

    I have a 2007 Jeep Wrangler X with an automatic transmission. I started having problems with it on 12/24/07. I heard a load "clunk" when I was driving that evening. There was no further noise, so I kept on driving. When I stopped and put it in park and then tried to shift into reverse the gear shift didn't want to move. I tried a second time and managed to get it in reverse. For a short time (maybe a minute) I heard kind of a grinding noise. Then the noise went away and I was able to drive home with no problem. When I got home I tried putting it into reverse and backing up. It was a bit noisy when shifting into reverse, but didn't stick as it did earlier.

    I took my Jeep to the dealer, who checked it out and couldn't manage to recreate the problem I had. I drove my Jeep home and had no problems until the following day. When I tried shifting into reverse and stepping on the gas, my Jeep didn't move. I put it back in park and tried reverse again. This time there was no problem. After driving a short distance and parking my Jeep for a few minutes, I tried backing up, this time with no problem. However, after driving forward about 20-30 feet and stopping, I stepped on the gas and my Jeep didn't move. I moved the gear shift up to neutral, then to 2nd, back to drive -- no change. I shifted to reverse and back to drive and was then able to drive home.

    My Jeep is currently at the dealer's and again, they can't recreate the problem. They seem to be trying to solve the problem, but haven't been successful, yet.

    Has anyone out there had this type of problem with a 2007 Jeep?
  • This is one of the most detailed descriptions of a problem I have seen.

    Try printing it and taking it to the dealer and ask the service writer to give it to the tech. That way, he knows exactly what conditions were and the results. This will be way more valuable to him than the service writers description (which might say only "trouble shifting").

    Terry
  • khjeepkhjeep Posts: 4
    Hi Terry,

    I can tell you that I have the Wrangler now in another shop for an opinion. The first shop (a dealership) indicated that a complete transmission was required, but could not produce anything to substantiate it. I asked for a sample of the transmission fluid (with the metals in it) and it was not available. They could also not tell me if the metal they saw was steel or brass. Also they suggested a new disc plate for the clutch may be a good thing to change out with the transmission. It was at that point that I decided to get another opinion.

    I will tell you as a rule, I make sure that the problem description on the service ticket is to my satisfaction and that I get the service manager or tech (or both) out in the car to hear or feel the problem whenever I nees the car serviced for something other than routine maintenance. I will keep my information going in this post a developments continue -provided they add to the forum.

    Finally, I am thinking of trying another transmission flush and ensure that the correct fluid in put into the vehicle to see if that clears up any of the whining sounds.
  • I saw the service writer's description and it was more detailed than "trouble shifting". He did write down the symptoms I described.

    I just picked my Jeep up this evening since they still couldn't recreate the problem after trying for 3 days. I even tried to get the problem to occur before I left the dealer's lot. Of course, I couldn't get it to happen. I drove home with no trouble and -- you guessed it -- the minute I pulled into my garage I had trouble with it again.

    This time drive seemed to disappear momentarily, then came back and my Jeep lurched forward. Luckily I didn't hit anything. I guess I'm going to try calling the Jeep "800" number and have it towed in. Maybe if I don't try "playing" with the gear shift like I did the last time I had trouble, it will still be in failure mode when they look at it.
  • I've been interested in buying another jeep. Mom had one which is now my brothers. It is 93 cherokee. I would prefer a wrangler. However, my brother( who is a mechanic, But can be questionable) thinks that any Jeep before 93(cherokees) are not very good. He is refering to the transmissions. Like I said I prefer Wranglers, so I would love it if anyone could tell me if there are certain years that should be avoided( don't really want to change a transmission soon). Or just like any vehicle ya never know?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Earlier Cherokees had a Puegot transmission that was notorious for bad things happening. Your newer Cherokees and TJ Wranglers used the same transmissions and transfer cases. Early TJ's up to 2000 IIRC used the AX-5 manual (2.5L engine) or the AX-15 manual (4.0 engine). Not sure what the model # was for the autos. Newer TJ's use the NV line of transmissions along with the NP-231 transfer cases.

    TJ's were from 97-06 (with the round headlights) and had a car-like dash. Coil springs on all 4 corners vs leaf springs for the 88-95 YJ Wranglers. If you could find a 2000-2004 TJ, you'd be a in a very good range for quality AND price. Newer Wranglers (05-06) are still fetching higher prices for some reason. After 2000, a lot of the early bugs were worked out and tend to be pretty reliable along with the newer transmissions.

    -Paul
  • Hello everyone,
    I have a 1992 Jeep Wrangler and when I shift into 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears there is a loud grind unless i shift around 1800rpm but my engine is to weak to shift that early. It always grinds when I downshift! I have gotten a few tips from people... one saying that it is the clutch and the other saying that it may be the synchros or the tranny! What are synchros? Any ideas on what the problem is?
    Thanks!!!!!
  • lewzlewz Posts: 3
    Synchros stands for synchromesh gears. These gears keep the power gears spinning in unison so when you engage the gear shift they mesh correctly and don't grind. If your synchro is spun or broken then you will grind.

    Check the easy stuff first. Do you have enough fluid in your clutch master cylinder ? Does your clutch operate smoothly? Do you have enough travel on the pedal? Does the clutch pedal vibrate? Do you have alot of miles on the clutch. You may have bent clutch fingers or a worn throw out bearing face or even a bent fork. These are all parts of the clutch that can cause grinding. It is cheaper if these are the problems than working on the gearbox itself.

    When you step on the clutch pedal you are disangaging the clutch faces and allowing the synchros to align the power gears at the right speed. If your clutch does not completely release then you will grind.

    You can test your synchros by power shifting (shifting without using the clutch) only do this if you know how. Do not do this if you have never tried it before.
    If you can power shift then the synchros are usually OK.

    My two cents worth of advice Good luck
  • lewzlewz Posts: 3
    My 1995 4 cylinder jeep with a three speed automatic transmission (132,000 miles) has a problem with down shifting from the high gear. I have replaced the filter and added a conditioner for automatic transmissions and did get better up shifts but still have this nagging down shifting problem. As the jeep slows down it begins to shudder and occasionally stalls since it wants to stay in 3rd gear.

    Does anyone know if this is caused by a solenoid valve sticking ? If so thats an easy fix for me. If not its time for a rebuild. :cry:

    Problem is more prevelant during cold weather.
  • Hello all,

    Here is the update for the 1992 Wrangler with the "whining" sound. As of today, the rear differential has been completely rebuilt and driven for more than 1,500 miles. The "whining" noise has gone away as far as I can tell. According to the mechanic who works on off-road vehicles, the previous shop (a general transmission shop) who had done a kit rebuild on the rear differential (wrangler had ~185,000 on it at that time) did not do the job correctly which is why it only lasted 40,000 miles. I took it back to the off-road shop for a 1,000 mile check after the rebuild and the rear differential looked great.
  • hello,
    i drive a 2000 jeep wrangler se sport 4.0L 4x4. i'm a student working on my BS degree in nursing. one day i took my jeep out to enjoy some mud. a week later i noticed that the jeep wasn't driving just right so i took it in to have the clutch looked at and i replaced it. however, the problem wasn't fixed. i'm a novice with mechanical issues so i asked a friend for advice. i took the jeep to a transmission shop and the problem was clear. i fluided the transmission with water/mud. so i had the transmission rebuilt for 1,200 dollars. a year and a half later which is the present, my second gear is grinding bad when i shift into it. i took the jeep back to the transmission shop and the shop owner informed me that the gear was bad. he said that jeep is aware of this common issue in the 2000 jeep wrangler and that it would be extremely expensive to fix the tranny. he said i could either put in a rebuilt 2nd gear that might not last a year, or completely replace the tranny and drive shaft. well i dont have a lot of money since im in school. so i decided to just shift from 1st to 3rd until i can afford to fix the problem. now 3rd gear is starting to drink just slightly ever once in a while. i'm concerned that this will only get worse. someone please help me. i love my jeep and i would hate to sell it, just because i cant spend the money to fix it. and it sounds like if i fix it i will continue to have issues later down the road.
    thank you for listening,
    josh
  • I just picked up my 2008 Sahara - automatic - last week. Since then, several times after I start the engine and try to put it in drive or reverse, the shifter won't move. I can't get the button to push in to move it. After trying it a few times, it eventually goes, but I fear the day it doesn't. Anyone else have this problem? Ideas?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    You either don't have your foot pressed hard enough on the brake pedal, or adjustment is needed to the brake/transmission interlink.
    Try more right leg pressure first. ;)
  • sciguy85sciguy85 Posts: 45
    My 07 does the same thing. I'm not sure but I think it might have something to do with the hill holding feature. After you put your foot on the brake pedal it sometimes "takes a sec" to settle to the bottom of the brake travel. The shifter release is tied to a switch that must be fully pushed down. Give it a sec and then the shifter should go. Mine was a little worse after I had my recall fixed for the hill holder. Hope that helps.
  • dmenchendmenchen Posts: 4
    I have a 99 Grand Cherokee that is not getting any power to the front axle. Additionally, the power that is going to the rear is only going to one wheel. If the jeep is in snow or ice it will just spin one of its rear wheels. This is totally opposite of what the drivetrain should do. Can you suggest a possible problem to look at? Would a lack of or wrong lubricant in the transfer case / viscous couplers do this? I had the oil changed and the differential fluids changed some time back. Thanks...
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